Updates: Time for another motor swap...
01-16-06, 05:45 PM
#26
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Meh, it's not bad. I gave it a wash and a wax before hand and covered it with towels. There's just 1 spot where the towel slipped, and I was leaning over it a bit. It'll buff out.
01-19-06, 09:04 PM
#28
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Finished cleaning new motor. Definitely a rebuild. housings are stamped JC94. Hopefully that means that Jesus rebuilt my motor. Jesus Build My Hotrod!
I was going to pull the wiring harness out of the car before I painted the engine bay, but that is turning out to be too much work. No one will even notice that the bundle is painted, so why worry? I'm not going to worry.
So, sunday if the weather holds, we'll pull out the pressure washer and rid the engine bay of 21 years of rust proofing, and spray on some chassis black. Next week is re-wire, re-assemble the engine, and drop'er in the car.
On to tech questions:
1. bolt size to block oil injector holes on S4 motor?
2. If I want the stock CAS wiring out of the 2nd gen, do I need to pull the dash?
3. Since I'm premixing, do I just pull the OMP and drop on a blockoff plate?
If I were a better forum member, I would post pics, but instead, I'll just send them out to the elite tomorrow.
I was going to pull the wiring harness out of the car before I painted the engine bay, but that is turning out to be too much work. No one will even notice that the bundle is painted, so why worry? I'm not going to worry.
So, sunday if the weather holds, we'll pull out the pressure washer and rid the engine bay of 21 years of rust proofing, and spray on some chassis black. Next week is re-wire, re-assemble the engine, and drop'er in the car.
On to tech questions:
1. bolt size to block oil injector holes on S4 motor?
2. If I want the stock CAS wiring out of the 2nd gen, do I need to pull the dash?
3. Since I'm premixing, do I just pull the OMP and drop on a blockoff plate?
If I were a better forum member, I would post pics, but instead, I'll just send them out to the elite tomorrow.
01-20-06, 09:42 PM
#31
400WHP or bust
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I think it's a 12 mm head bolt to block the oil metering injector holes it's a fine thread if I recall.
You can just unhook the OMP from the linkage, and take the linkage off the TB, but if you want a nice clean lok do the block off plate.
You can just unhook the OMP from the linkage, and take the linkage off the TB, but if you want a nice clean lok do the block off plate.
01-31-06, 09:00 PM
#33
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Slowly but surely...
Dash is back out of the FB. I need to pull the bins to get the main harness out of the car. Kristen has drilled, filled and blocked off the manifolds, and is getting ready to paint them.
Once the wires are out (tomorrow) and the manifolds are painted (also tomorrow) it'll be time to paint the engine bay (me) and put the motor back together (Kristen). I think this weekend is being comendered by guests, etc. but we'll get there damed soon.
Then I'm buying one of these:
http://japanoid.com/car.php?carNo=12
or one of these:
http://japanoid.com/car.php?carNo=10
Dash is back out of the FB. I need to pull the bins to get the main harness out of the car. Kristen has drilled, filled and blocked off the manifolds, and is getting ready to paint them.
Once the wires are out (tomorrow) and the manifolds are painted (also tomorrow) it'll be time to paint the engine bay (me) and put the motor back together (Kristen). I think this weekend is being comendered by guests, etc. but we'll get there damed soon.
Then I'm buying one of these:
http://japanoid.com/car.php?carNo=12
or one of these:
http://japanoid.com/car.php?carNo=10
02-03-06, 10:09 PM
#35
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Meh, life's too short for camrys and accords (or jettas)
Finally yanked the wiring harness out of the FB. DAMN is THAT a bad design!!! All the way from the front right headlight, through the driver's side firewall, back across the dash to the passenger's side, and back under the storage bins! Oh well, if it cleans up like I think it should, it'll save 10 or 15 lbs.
Kristen is 1/2 way through re-painting the manifolds. We've been teaming up on the water pump, and it is pretty much done, so we are damn close to re-assembly of the long block.
I taped up the engine bay and sprayed on some primer. Tomorrow I'll do another prime coat, hit it with some chassis black, and get after the wiring.
Bring on next summer!
Finally yanked the wiring harness out of the FB. DAMN is THAT a bad design!!! All the way from the front right headlight, through the driver's side firewall, back across the dash to the passenger's side, and back under the storage bins! Oh well, if it cleans up like I think it should, it'll save 10 or 15 lbs.
Kristen is 1/2 way through re-painting the manifolds. We've been teaming up on the water pump, and it is pretty much done, so we are damn close to re-assembly of the long block.
I taped up the engine bay and sprayed on some primer. Tomorrow I'll do another prime coat, hit it with some chassis black, and get after the wiring.
Bring on next summer!
02-05-06, 05:26 PM
#37
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Kind of a slow weekend. Only 3-4 hours in the garage.
Kristen painted the manifolds, and they look freaking great. I got the prime coat on the engine bay, but I will wait for a little warmer weather before I spray on the top coat.
In the meantime, I spent today porting the intake manifold. Cut down the screws to meet the throtte shafts, chopped the middle out of the throttle shafts, removed the extra throttles on the secondary side, and smoothed and knife edged the rest of it. I've got to get back in there with a little devcon to smooth out a couple of areas, but that'll come.
I'm thinking about knife edging the plates, but I don't think I'm smooth enough with the dremel to try.
One thing I did notice though is that the secondary plates don't open to 180 degrees at WOT. Seems to be a combination of slop in the system, and design. Any of you gen 2 guys know about this? Is is common? Easy fix? The best I can think of right now is to cut a new actuator for the secondary shaft, but that will eat up the progressve nature of the linkage...
Just thinking out loud.
Kristen painted the manifolds, and they look freaking great. I got the prime coat on the engine bay, but I will wait for a little warmer weather before I spray on the top coat.
In the meantime, I spent today porting the intake manifold. Cut down the screws to meet the throtte shafts, chopped the middle out of the throttle shafts, removed the extra throttles on the secondary side, and smoothed and knife edged the rest of it. I've got to get back in there with a little devcon to smooth out a couple of areas, but that'll come.
I'm thinking about knife edging the plates, but I don't think I'm smooth enough with the dremel to try.
One thing I did notice though is that the secondary plates don't open to 180 degrees at WOT. Seems to be a combination of slop in the system, and design. Any of you gen 2 guys know about this? Is is common? Easy fix? The best I can think of right now is to cut a new actuator for the secondary shaft, but that will eat up the progressve nature of the linkage...
Just thinking out loud.
02-05-06, 10:52 PM
#38
TRUST PWRD
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Its supposed to be like that, but i plan on making them go linearly as i see no advantage to this system.
Also, i called, but you werent home, ill have to come out next week so sure though, as i'll need a break from school after fridays test bombardment
Also, i called, but you werent home, ill have to come out next week so sure though, as i'll need a break from school after fridays test bombardment
02-06-06, 08:05 AM
#39
Rotary Freak
Jamie, if you look at the linkage closely there is a little metal tab (on the secondary shaft) that gets pushed by the primary linkage. You just have to bend that tab until it comes into contact with the primary linkage. This removes the progressive nature of the throttles and opens all 3 holes at the same time. It give you full plate openning. This should not cause any issues, especially if you have removed the 5th and 6th port actuators.
Eric.
Eric.
02-06-06, 06:15 PM
#40
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i don't see any reason to make them open all at the same time if you are using the stock intake manifold, am i missing something here?
the whole point of keeping the secondary runners closed at low throttle is to keep intake velocity a little higher and to promote pressure wave effect (for primaries). well, apparently anyways. but Mazda R&D did a pretty good job on the TB so i would leave it.
the whole point of keeping the secondary runners closed at low throttle is to keep intake velocity a little higher and to promote pressure wave effect (for primaries). well, apparently anyways. but Mazda R&D did a pretty good job on the TB so i would leave it.
02-06-06, 09:18 PM
#41
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it's not so much that I want them all to open at the same time, it's that I want the secondaries to open to 180°. I did manage to get the tang bent, and I still have a little bit of progressiveness.
Other than that, Kristen got the engine bay painted, I played with the TB some more, and the water pump went back on the motor. Plus, I finally broke down and started tearing apart the wiring harness. Progress, Progress.
Mike: Come by Wednesday if you can. I'll try and give you a call tomorrow.
Other than that, Kristen got the engine bay painted, I played with the TB some more, and the water pump went back on the motor. Plus, I finally broke down and started tearing apart the wiring harness. Progress, Progress.
Mike: Come by Wednesday if you can. I'll try and give you a call tomorrow.
02-06-06, 10:44 PM
#42
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oh ok, i see. i thought they were supposed to open 180 anyways. did you try tightening the cable up a bit?
um...so...can't believe no one has said it yet, but...PICS!!!!
um...so...can't believe no one has said it yet, but...PICS!!!!