Updates On 2006 Touring GT Rules
11-01-05, 03:54 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Updates On 2006 Touring GT Rules
Just been given a heads up on the rules package for next year. Will need to get busy. Main changes are as follows:
1) Vehicle weights include driver. This means I have to remove approx. 200 lbs from my car. This means that I can't add all of my coolers next year. Ideas?????
2) Front Splitters can't extend beyond front bumper, or extend back beyond centerline of front wheels. It also can't touch the ground with both front tires flat. This means my splitter has to be trimmed back about an inch. Need to rethink front aero.
3) Rear wing's uppermost point has to be 2 inches lower than roof line. It cant extend beyond rearmost point of rear bumper and can't be wider than the outermost edges of rear wheels. This means I have to lower my spoiler about 2 inches and move it ahead an inch. Any ideas on how to recover about 50 lbs of rear downforce???? I saw the WC GT Caddies had trans cooler evacuation tunnels blowing out on the lower edge of the rear wing, maybeeeee?
4) Engine, induction is still open. Therefore the BP, ITB manifold idea is still valid. This will boost power as well as reduce weight. A double bonus!
Everything is about the same, however the general weight reduction and aero clawback will mean I have to do about a 1:34 to win this upcoming year. I guess the new motor better be good. Anybody here have fibreglass experience?? I will have to build a WC Touring competitive car to win or at least pick up 3 seconds a lap from last year to place. The way the rules are now written, any car from the Speed Touring Series, FAQ Touring Car Series or Grand Am Cup Touring will now be legal. WHOOOO BABBYYYY release the hounds, $$$$$$$$.
All go fast ideas/ help will be entertained and appreciated.
1) Vehicle weights include driver. This means I have to remove approx. 200 lbs from my car. This means that I can't add all of my coolers next year. Ideas?????
2) Front Splitters can't extend beyond front bumper, or extend back beyond centerline of front wheels. It also can't touch the ground with both front tires flat. This means my splitter has to be trimmed back about an inch. Need to rethink front aero.
3) Rear wing's uppermost point has to be 2 inches lower than roof line. It cant extend beyond rearmost point of rear bumper and can't be wider than the outermost edges of rear wheels. This means I have to lower my spoiler about 2 inches and move it ahead an inch. Any ideas on how to recover about 50 lbs of rear downforce???? I saw the WC GT Caddies had trans cooler evacuation tunnels blowing out on the lower edge of the rear wing, maybeeeee?
4) Engine, induction is still open. Therefore the BP, ITB manifold idea is still valid. This will boost power as well as reduce weight. A double bonus!
Everything is about the same, however the general weight reduction and aero clawback will mean I have to do about a 1:34 to win this upcoming year. I guess the new motor better be good. Anybody here have fibreglass experience?? I will have to build a WC Touring competitive car to win or at least pick up 3 seconds a lap from last year to place. The way the rules are now written, any car from the Speed Touring Series, FAQ Touring Car Series or Grand Am Cup Touring will now be legal. WHOOOO BABBYYYY release the hounds, $$$$$$$$.
All go fast ideas/ help will be entertained and appreciated.
11-07-05, 12:33 PM
#2
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
The new weight calculator came out on Friday. I input all of my car bits and pieces and my new minimum weight (with driver) is 2195 lbs. Last year I ran at a minimum weight of 2610 (with driver) and fluids. This means I have to drop over 400 lbs (OMG!!!!) to meet the calculator.
I can be heavy, but it is giving away performance. For anyone who has seen the car or anyone who wants to help, I would be interested in your ideas on how to reduce weight from this point. Here is a list of what we plan to do and expected savings:
Replace battery - 15 lbs
Gut doors - 20 lbs a door or 40 lbs total
Aluminum hood - 15 lbs (Fibreglass hood - 30 lbs)
Remove lights - 10 lbs
Reduce wiring loom - 10 lbs
Remove unneeded brackets - 10 lbs
Replace induction system with ITBs- 15 lbs
Driver - 10 lbs
Splitter - Replace with lighter wood/ glass unit - 5 lbs
Reduce height of rear wing - 5 lbs (remove wing entirely - 20 lbs)
Total savings - 115 lbs
I am only short by 300 lbs!!
What weight savings ideas do you have. All ideas will be examined and credit given for ideas that we use. Use those grey cells for good, not evil.
By the way, if I can get down by 200 lbs and add the additional horsepower with the new engine, I should be able to get down to a 1:34.6. This will be more than enough to be competitive, maybe even a podium finisher.
Thanks again for your help
I can be heavy, but it is giving away performance. For anyone who has seen the car or anyone who wants to help, I would be interested in your ideas on how to reduce weight from this point. Here is a list of what we plan to do and expected savings:
Replace battery - 15 lbs
Gut doors - 20 lbs a door or 40 lbs total
Aluminum hood - 15 lbs (Fibreglass hood - 30 lbs)
Remove lights - 10 lbs
Reduce wiring loom - 10 lbs
Remove unneeded brackets - 10 lbs
Replace induction system with ITBs- 15 lbs
Driver - 10 lbs
Splitter - Replace with lighter wood/ glass unit - 5 lbs
Reduce height of rear wing - 5 lbs (remove wing entirely - 20 lbs)
Total savings - 115 lbs
I am only short by 300 lbs!!
What weight savings ideas do you have. All ideas will be examined and credit given for ideas that we use. Use those grey cells for good, not evil.
By the way, if I can get down by 200 lbs and add the additional horsepower with the new engine, I should be able to get down to a 1:34.6. This will be more than enough to be competitive, maybe even a podium finisher.
Thanks again for your help
11-07-05, 12:54 PM
#3
I'll be lighter then you... na na naa naa... lol
Remove the side impact beams in the door shells and trim out your door til' it's almost wobbly. Lexan the rear hatch if it hasn't been already. Check the weight of your wheels and look at alternatives i.e. sub 10 pound 15"ers. Make the headlamp system quick release/removal. Remove the factory tow points during the race weekend and use a single nylon one for the each of the front and rear hanging through their respective bumpers a couple inches. Optimize wiring loom, eliminate all unnecessary connections. Use marine ply or sandwich MDF-Balsa-MDF for the splitter...
Oops, just read your post closer, you've mentioned most if not all of these already
I'm thinking I'll make my radical diffuser out of lead...
Remove the side impact beams in the door shells and trim out your door til' it's almost wobbly. Lexan the rear hatch if it hasn't been already. Check the weight of your wheels and look at alternatives i.e. sub 10 pound 15"ers. Make the headlamp system quick release/removal. Remove the factory tow points during the race weekend and use a single nylon one for the each of the front and rear hanging through their respective bumpers a couple inches. Optimize wiring loom, eliminate all unnecessary connections. Use marine ply or sandwich MDF-Balsa-MDF for the splitter...
Oops, just read your post closer, you've mentioned most if not all of these already
I'm thinking I'll make my radical diffuser out of lead...
11-08-05, 08:10 AM
#6
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Thats easy for you to say. I am thinking about filling the tires with helium to lighten the car. Actually on a thread in the CASC.ON site, a guy who has been racing a first gen has run the calculator and has found he needs to be below 1800 lbs without driver. Thats only 600 lbs lighter than this year. So I guess I really don't have it sooo bad.
Presently looking at replacing my whole rear window and frame with a sheet of lexan. Should save another 20 lbs. See picture below of an ex-IMSA car for sale in Vancouver (By the way it has a full on 20B and is really really fast). Anybody with a Plasma cutter I can borrow for about a month, so that I can gut the interior of all extraneous metal?
Presently looking at replacing my whole rear window and frame with a sheet of lexan. Should save another 20 lbs. See picture below of an ex-IMSA car for sale in Vancouver (By the way it has a full on 20B and is really really fast). Anybody with a Plasma cutter I can borrow for about a month, so that I can gut the interior of all extraneous metal?
11-08-05, 11:22 AM
#7
Go Hard....or Go Home
Look dont cheap out! Remove your cage and everything, then send out the chassis to be acid dipped. Cut the roof off and replace it with fiberglass, as well as alll the body panels. Oh wait, you could probably buy a trans-am car and put an RX-7 body on it for that kind of money! HAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA
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11-08-05, 12:13 PM
#10
Hey Marlin,
The car is being moved to Nigel's in Markham on Thursday. I've had every supsension component media blasted, then powder coated where necessary, all suspension hardware and a complete extra set were re-zinc'd in black which is more corrosion resistant then the original golden finish and it's easier to tell what hardware is new from old. I've got 5 motors at Nigel's and one at home. Out of those him and I will assemble a pair of ported monsters for next season. Right now its just dampers I'm screwed on. I'll probably have Craig at Tri-Point revalve some Koni's for me and purchase the AWR front cartridge assembly. Unless of course I come across a set of JIC's or Motons or Ohlins... *sigh* If my current job keeps up then money is not a problem and being on track for as many lapping days next year as possible and a handful of races is realistic.
Have you run any test laps yet or has the engine been dyno'd and returned to Mandeville for final tweaking?
The car is being moved to Nigel's in Markham on Thursday. I've had every supsension component media blasted, then powder coated where necessary, all suspension hardware and a complete extra set were re-zinc'd in black which is more corrosion resistant then the original golden finish and it's easier to tell what hardware is new from old. I've got 5 motors at Nigel's and one at home. Out of those him and I will assemble a pair of ported monsters for next season. Right now its just dampers I'm screwed on. I'll probably have Craig at Tri-Point revalve some Koni's for me and purchase the AWR front cartridge assembly. Unless of course I come across a set of JIC's or Motons or Ohlins... *sigh* If my current job keeps up then money is not a problem and being on track for as many lapping days next year as possible and a handful of races is realistic.
Have you run any test laps yet or has the engine been dyno'd and returned to Mandeville for final tweaking?
11-08-05, 12:23 PM
#11
Haltech Dealer
Roger ran it on his dyno and tuned it. He said it made about 480 at 9000rpm. No laps have been done yet. once everthing is install and running good. We will do some fine tuning. Maybe bring it up to 500hp
11-08-05, 12:56 PM
#12
Go Hard....or Go Home
Im glad non of you are running Ontario Challenge Cup next year of I would get my *** kicked! Im happy if my new engine will put out 220HP at the rear wheels! Only place I seem to have an advantage is weight about 2200lbs
11-08-05, 11:21 PM
#14
Navy MarCom
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makes no sense to take away your traction and grip when all they need to do is restrictor your intake ports.. same dumb mistakes being committed over and over.. I swear motorsport rule makers have blinders on .. can't see that thier 'grand plans' don't work. I'd personally make a saftey challenge n regards to them promoting an unsafe formula package for next year..
11-09-05, 12:22 AM
#15
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don't know if you are already doing some of these things or not:
- engine: racing beat aluminum side housings...according to RB at least 35lbs
- engine: racing beat super lightweight rotor assembly...according to RB 2lbs (rotating mass) reduction
- flywheel/clutch: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=10
- lightened Driveshaft...10lbs at least
- might be dependent on clutch choice, but: consider swapping to something like a Miata 5-spd tranny. lighter and shorter gear ratios.
- no exhaust components after the header (nothing after point of collection)...at least 20 lbs
- fuel cell...don't know, prob same weight, maybe 10lbs, but at least you can place it for better ballast
- lightened brake rotors...um either cross-drilled, or take out a mortgage for composite rotors...15-30lbs UNSPRUNG weight
- every window replaced with polycarbonate...don't know about front though, does it need to be glass??...at least 30lbs
- if the roll cage is sufficient safety, then completely gut and cut the doors. weld them shut to the frame...at least 20lbs
- is it possible to cut out the floor in the hatch and replace it with something lighter? maybe even wood, heh...
- i'm guessing there are no more interior parts, but if so, get rid of them
- engine: racing beat aluminum side housings...according to RB at least 35lbs
- engine: racing beat super lightweight rotor assembly...according to RB 2lbs (rotating mass) reduction
- flywheel/clutch: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...1&postcount=10
- lightened Driveshaft...10lbs at least
- might be dependent on clutch choice, but: consider swapping to something like a Miata 5-spd tranny. lighter and shorter gear ratios.
- no exhaust components after the header (nothing after point of collection)...at least 20 lbs
- fuel cell...don't know, prob same weight, maybe 10lbs, but at least you can place it for better ballast
- lightened brake rotors...um either cross-drilled, or take out a mortgage for composite rotors...15-30lbs UNSPRUNG weight
- every window replaced with polycarbonate...don't know about front though, does it need to be glass??...at least 30lbs
- if the roll cage is sufficient safety, then completely gut and cut the doors. weld them shut to the frame...at least 20lbs
- is it possible to cut out the floor in the hatch and replace it with something lighter? maybe even wood, heh...
- i'm guessing there are no more interior parts, but if so, get rid of them
Last edited by coldfire; 11-09-05 at 12:24 AM.
11-09-05, 07:05 AM
#16
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Wow, Can Saf/Marlin that sounds like some kind of beast. The rules for rotaries in GT are pretty much open for 2006. I don't believe that you will have too much problem getting to run your car just the way you want too, just be really conservative on your expected HP figure (i.e. 360 hp at 8,000 rpm). Man, I can hardly wait to see (actually hear) it run.
Present estimates for a winning car's fastest lap time, for each class, is as follows:
GT - (Marlin's Car) a 1:28 - 1:29
T1 - (My car and Jason's) a 1:32 - 1:33
T2 - Restricted tire size class a 1:38 - 1:39
Everybody looks like they are ramping up for next year. The new rules basically allow you to lighten your car as much as possible and are limiting aero a small amount to try to lower the cornering speeds a bit. This past year I was constantly in the 1.3 g's area and when people went off they usually wrote off their cars. That was why the car counts dropped down by the end of the year. At least 6 shells were destroyed. The cornering load is too high for a club racer and equal to WC cars, prepped and maintained by PRO race teams. I think the claw back on aero grip is too maintain cornering speeds at last years levels.
Coldfire, thanks for your ideas. A few really good ones that I will use. A couple i.e. aluminum RB engine bits, I will use if I win the lottery. Thanks again.
Keep them coming and we will see all of you out next spring.
Present estimates for a winning car's fastest lap time, for each class, is as follows:
GT - (Marlin's Car) a 1:28 - 1:29
T1 - (My car and Jason's) a 1:32 - 1:33
T2 - Restricted tire size class a 1:38 - 1:39
Everybody looks like they are ramping up for next year. The new rules basically allow you to lighten your car as much as possible and are limiting aero a small amount to try to lower the cornering speeds a bit. This past year I was constantly in the 1.3 g's area and when people went off they usually wrote off their cars. That was why the car counts dropped down by the end of the year. At least 6 shells were destroyed. The cornering load is too high for a club racer and equal to WC cars, prepped and maintained by PRO race teams. I think the claw back on aero grip is too maintain cornering speeds at last years levels.
Coldfire, thanks for your ideas. A few really good ones that I will use. A couple i.e. aluminum RB engine bits, I will use if I win the lottery. Thanks again.
Keep them coming and we will see all of you out next spring.
