Scrodes

Hey guys just some quick questions as I prepare to store the FD for the coming months.


First - thoughts on rust-proofing a car that's going to be garage kept all winter, should I still send it to Krown or Rustcheck to have it sprayed or should I just leave it as is? It's not about saving the money - I don't care either way, I just have never really stored a car all winter and am curious to see what the school of thought is on this.


Secondly - anyone have a good writeup on winterizing an RX-7? I actually did search, but didn't turn up much. Ironically my350Z.com has several write ups, but my Z33 never needed to be winterized and being a traditional piston engined car, it really wasn't finicky like our rotaries can be.


Thanks guys

JDK

iTrader: (8)

Check coolant, make sure it’s good for our winter
Fill the fuel tank, some people use fuel stabilizer...I never have.
Change oil
Put it up on stands if you can
Pull the battery
DON'T start the car though out the winter...let it rest
Spring time all you need to do is install battery....pretty basic stuff

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

How To Store Your RX-7

If you're parking on a SEALED cement floor that won't allow much moisture through underneath you probably don't need underspray but what's the harm, really. Might as well spray it for the $100 that Krown costs.

Scrodes

PERFECT - thanks JDK. I wasn't surprised to see you'd come through for me.


Out of curiosity - why not start the car?

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

Ever noticed the water droplets out of the tailpipe of a car? H20 is a product of complete combustion so starting it and letting the water sit promotes corrosion anywhere it touches.
Condensation, too.
If you're really paranoid like I was last year (my first time storing) you can use that stuff Aaron suggests emptying into the intake, on his webpage thing. That's more for long-term storage though.

Scrodes

Just finished reading the article, very helpful thanks Charles.

I'll have her rust proofed and then stored as per both of your recommendations.

Thanks guys.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Realistically, if all your doing is storing it for one winter. Fill gas tank to the top and unplug the the negative battery and your done. Make sure the tire pressures are high so they don't sag. Don't drive the car hard in the spring until you burn off the old gas and change the oil. Rustproofing is a good idea, I do it once every few years.

thewird

G-daddy

About the rustproofing, do you trust those guys to touch your car.

Just had my econobox rustproofed, and after the job, there was spray residue over my center console, and my pedals were smeared with grease.

HiWire

I got my car rust protected at Krown. The shop I went to (Krown Richmond Hill) did a good job, but they do have to drill holes in your car to spray oil in the right places. Then it drips oil from all around the car for a few days, so it's best to park your car on some cardboard until things dry off.

Also, I plan to buy a battery charger to top up the battery periodically and I'll run the car with A/C for a few minutes to keep things circulated once a week or so.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

If your gonna start the car, make sure it gets to full operating temperature and more (at least 20 minutes). You do not need to start it though, let it sleep.

thewird

Mazdabation

iTrader: (9)

No need to rust proof a car if its indoors....i have never done mine. Salt is the root of all evil, not water as much....I mean you do wash your car right?

Changing the oil is not on my to do list either, why let new oil sit all winter? Drive it, let it sit and all that old oil will drain to the pan over winter. Change the oil as your FIRST order of business in the spring for a fresh start up.



-Over inflate tires
-fill tank

That is all i have ever done, for over 11 years now!

OsterFD3S

iTrader: (2)

It's also a good idea to spray all the latches with WD40. Something easy to do that could go along way

rx speed

iTrader: (1)

Battery Trickle charger for the battery, so you don't have a dead battery when you need to start it in spring.

manios

iTrader: (3)

Fogging oil for the internals is good idea. When you go to start in spring it won't be a dry crank.

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't WD40 essentially act as a solvent, washing away the grease (usually lithium) that should be on hinges and latches?

Scrodes

This was always my understanding - I just use a white lithium grease in a spray can.



Also - as far as battery chargers go - Battery Tender Plus - Batterytender.com is a nice option.


I can't believe that there isn't a thread on all of this that's already stickied here - especially in the Canadian Forum.

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

Probably should be. The topic comes up every year, and every year, it's a race to be the first to post links to aaroncake's "How to store your RX7"

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

^ lmao I win this year.

Mazdabation

iTrader: (9)

Dry crank wont happen if you prime the motor before actual start. I do it about 5 times

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Just start the damn thing.... Jesus... We're not talking about storing for years, its one winter. Nothing is going to be dry.

thewird

rx7racerca

iTrader: (1)

No, not much of an issue storing it for a few months. My car has been stored for 20 winters, 14 with me, and compression was still ~100psi on mine (altitude seems to make for slightly low readings here), that's never been rebuilt.

Tom Cinnamon

Block off the exhaust. Once had a chipmunk decide to make it his winter home. Car was in my garage and we thought it cute that he stayed in the garage without doing any damage, until one day in late winter, I saw him jump out of the exhaust pipe! Sure enough on removing the headers, there was grass and bits of shells and bird feed in one of the engine ports and through the exhaust system.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

How did he get through the turbo o.O

thewird

Scrodes

This thread has taken a turn for the even-better

thewird

iTrader: (8)

LOL, I just realized he had a 1st gen. When I originally posted, I was on my phone so I didnt see the avatar.

thewird