no_name

I live in Brantford Ontario. Home of Wayne Greksky. It's realy boring here. Anyhow, I own a 1985 GSL and I am wondering If anyone knows of a place whare I can get my carb properly tuned up for low cost. Brntford is 20 min from Hamilton, 40 min from kitchner, about 4o min from St. Catherins. Any imput is apritiated.

Thanks Ted.

dufourmike

iTrader: (1)

OMG there is like a thousand people to help you and noone has posted.

sad.

id help but i know nothing about carbs or fuel injection, but if you want your motor pulled with little more than a box of wrenches and a couple 2X4's, im your mangs!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

If you were within two hours of ottawa I'd drive out and do it for free.... whenever I had the time.

Hopefully someone will come give you a hand.. if not, keep in touch, I'll give you whatever help I can on here.

Jon

no_name

Thanks gents. I may concider doing a rebiuld if I can get teh parts cheap... And this is a rally car project BTW, so if you have any pointers on that it would be great to know.

Getting back to the carb there is a massive dead spot between 25 and 75% ish throttle. I think its teh transition cicuit. When under light loads the car works great, when I put the foot to the floor the car accerates pritty good.

Thanks for the help, Ted.

Bass

Make sure that you check/replace the fuel filter and check your plugs. They'll often be the culprit themselves. There's been a couple of times over the years that my car started to run sluggish as you described and I thought...time for a car rebuild. Turned out to be the filter the one time and my plugs the other.

Anyway, my point is to make sure that you check those first before you start adjusting the carb.

R.P.M.

iTrader: (3)

Hey Ted, I was going to say....just use duct tape :p haha j/k

Like bass said, definatly start by checking the plugs and wires, then the fuel filter. If it's still not right, then look for a Nikki carb rebuild kit and send me the carb and rebuild kit. I'd rebuild it for ya no charge. I'd like to get a little more experience rebuilding carbs. I've played with them a bit, but not too in depth.

Let me know what you think!

Joe

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

joe, I'd take you up on that offer

carbs confuse me! just like automatic transmissions.

no_name

LOL The carb was resently rebuilt in late august. An it was never tuned... I have treied nobaly though. I will check the sparks and see if that works out. On a side note, anyone know of any good cage builders, that work cheap?

Thanks Ted.

R.P.M.

iTrader: (3)

Ok Terrh, if you supply the parts....then send it my way!

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I've found that I can solve any idle problem by stripping it down to the intake manifold and checking everything as I put it back together. Rip the useless crap off the carb and make sure you have no vacuum leaks and you're good to tune when you're done building. One of these days I'm going to make a tutorial... maybe this summer if I can find someone looking to take the rat's nest out of their stock FB.

check out http://www.rotaryrefs.net/
under "Mazda Manuals and Info"
under "Misc Mazda Manuals"

you'll find everything you ever wanted to know about your carb and rebuilding it. This will at least give you something to use if you decide you need to get inside the carb but you probably don't need to.

I'd check everything for vacuum leaks, make sure your throttle is closing properly (and throttle wire is not too tight or loose) then adjust the idle speed screw.

If you don't have to worry about emissions ***** you can remove:
- Everything related to the choke assembly except the lever for the fast-idle rod (which activates off the choke cable)
- Dashpot
- Throttle Positioning Sensor
- Anti Afterburn Valve
- Throttle Opener

That will give you easier access to the linkage side of the carb by the firewall when the carb is installed, make the carb look smaller/simpler and make it easier to install/remove

Of course, if you're able to, removing the rat's nest is a great way to eliminate about a dozen sources of vacuum leaks, and give you much easier access to that idle speed screw when the carb is installed and the car is running.

I find if you don't have a paper gasket for the base of the carb, a light layer of red silicon works well. Be VERY careful not to get it into any of the vacuum holes though

Here's a thread where I posted a pic of my PCV setup, if you decide to remove the rat's nest

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...&highlight=PCV

There's a lot of great info in the 1st gen seciton's FAQ and archive if you want to learn more about your carb. It took me three years to finally track down my carb problems, but now I can do pretty much anything when it comes to a nikki on a 12a

What specific problems are you having that leads you to want it "tuned"? And can we see some pics of your setup? Do you have emissions to contend with?

Jon

no_name

I am emiision free. I have the 100% stock set up. I would love to remove as much as posible out of there, however I have to be carful, because I want to rally the car under P3 rally raceing, and they say everything needs to be pritty much OEM, or modifed OEM whatever that means. Tell me more about removing the rats nest, and all that other stuff?

no_name

I am very intrested in the rats nest removal.

no_name

How do I do it. The link at mazdaspeed is messed up

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Check the FAQ in the 1st Gen section. There's a write-up there that Carl and Pratch did (same one as linked at mazspeed). They did theirs with a purge valve from the stock system. I decided later on to use a PCV valve after reading some threads I found on the subject. If you search the 1st gen section for PCV you should find lots of great info on that.

Basic parts to rat's nest removal:

1. Remove the air pump, it's bracket and hose to the Air Control Valve (ACV, which is on the side of the intake manifold)

2. Install either a "yoohoo" belt (3L220, goes around crank and water pump to stop slippage) or a dual-belt alt pulley with a second belt. This is to prevent your water pump from slipping now that you don't have the extra tension of the Air Pump belt on it.

3. Remove the ACV from the side of the intake manifold and block the hole off with a blocking plate and some high temp silicon to stop it from creating a vacuum leak. (Racing Beat sells this blockoff plate)

4. Remove the air hose coming from the back of the intake manifold into the exhaust and cap off the spot with a blockoff plate (optional at first, I still have mine on because I haven't found a source for THAT blockoff plate. RB only sells it when you buy the FULL exhaust system, stupidly)

5. Now remove the rat's nest itself. All the solonoids, all the tubes going to the carb's baseplate.

6. At this point in the rat's nest removal I usually take the carb off and remove the shutter valve too. Carl didn't do this in his tutorial, but mine was siezed (as most of them are) and pretty useless. Leave the butterfly portion in place and JBWeld the arm so that it stays straight up and down. This is necessary if you get an Rx7Carl/Sterling rebuilt carb because their longer Accelerator Pump rod hits the shutter valve if you have it. You have to JBWeld the vacuum holes in the intake manifold for the shutter valve as well to keep them from leaking.

7. Cap off all the carb baseplate vacuum sources except the second one. Run a line from the second vacuum source on the baseplate to a "T" valve near the vacuum advance on the distributor. Both the leading and trailing vac advance should be run off this T.

8. Last step is to install the PCV valve to "positively" ventalate (mild vacuum) the oil filler tube to stop from that buildup of oil foam. See the link above for a pic of the PCV valve setup (and lack of a rat's nest) on my car.

I'd add pics of my own car, but it's away in storage.

Read the tutorial, search up any threads you can find on PCV in the 1st gen section and you should be good. If you have any quesitons, PM me or email me vipernicus42@hotmail.com

If you've got a digicam, pictures always help. I can draw on them in paint and send them back.

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

no_name, don't make threads that cover the same topics that are already being covered.

I told you where to find the Rat's nest tutorial, but here's the direct link since you didn't search or check the 1st Gen Section's FAQ.

http://www.ten15.net/Maz.tutorials/

Jon

no_name

I have searched, and I checked the FAQ, and it is either the link to a game of some sort, or "the page you requested could not be found" Please do not acuse me of lazines.

Sorry I had to start this but, the linky no worky

Thanks Ted.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I realize that now.

PM Rx7Carl, it's his link. He should be able to help you out. Maybe someone has the pdf and can send it to you.

Jon

no_name

I did that already, he fixed... that tutorial has some great pictures. I don't supose anyone has a diagram of the complete set up with the rats nest removed. So I can see whare everything conects... more resources teh merrier.

Thanks Ted.