thewird

iTrader: (8)

So I was doing my first practice port on a junk iron. Things were going well and making a mess everywhere until the port decided to pull the tool into the hole and snap the carbide bit in half. Pictures are below... Does anyone know where to get these carbide bits locally and hopefully open on weekends? I don't exactly want to order from Racing Beat again and have to wait for them to arrive.

Also, what you guys think of my porting station ? Took some pictures of the port progress but wasn't finished and when the port grabbed the carbide bit it dug into the oil seal groove side so it would have been a junk iron if it was the good irons. Thats what practice irons are for though right





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thewird

67 cosmo

Hey ; The carbide is to big for the bottom of the port also if you use one with a cross hatch patern they are less prone to grabbing . When I do a good iron I duct tape around the patern [ 2 layers ] to protect the iron . I use a series of large stones to do the runner . These do not leave grooves and cutting marks like carbides . I have a variable foot controll for the highspeed grinder so I do not have to reach for the on/off switch The finnish is made with assorted sanding rolls that the tool and die shops use . It helps to drill holes in a scrap iron to see how much meat you can remove without cutting into the water jacket.

gerald m

You can buy them from NAPA and they have pretty fair quality.. maybe you should check Aaron cakes' port job maybe you can pick up a few tips.. and 67 cosmo is right you need to use the right stuff I think Aaron uses mostly stones to get it smoother... take your time

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

WIRD!..Dude!..They have some KITS on Sale at CTC right now,and that Bit is IN the kit.
If you buy Just that Bit alone it is 15.99.
I use a lot of the Cutting Discs,and they are Real expensive.even Princess auto sells 5 for 6 -8 bucks.I wait until Canadian Tire has the "deluxe 400 pc" kit on,and I get about 20?30 dicss along with other Bits that alone would be worth the Whole kit.
The kit is the Wooden boxed one with the see through plastic top.The Other Less expensive kit has it too...Do NOT get the Job Mate kits.,,they are Garbage.
Good Luck,and Merry X-Mas!..Cheers Dave/STYX!~

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I bought all the tools racing beat suggested in their application chart. I have the bigger round carbide bit, the different grinding stones, the rolls, and the mandrel with the flapper rolls. I was using that particular tool to create a smooth curve on the edges as it seemed the best for that. I guess I need a smaller one.

misterstyx69, are those bits 1/4 inch?

thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I bought all the tools racing beat suggested in their application chart. I have the bigger round carbide bit, the different grinding stones, the rolls, and the mandrel with the flapper rolls. I was using that particular tool to create a smooth curve on the edges as it seemed the best for that. I guess I need a smaller one.

misterstyx69, are those bits 1/4 inch?

thewird

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Princess Auto always has those types of bits, and they are cheap enough to break and replace, though with my limited amount of use I have yet to break one. I've gone through a Dremel and then bought a Jobmate rotary tool, which for some reason spins in the opposite direction to which the chuck is tightened, so every ten seconds of use the bit pops loose. Now I know why I don't buy store brands like that.

HEVNSNT

iTrader: (3)

That's ***'d up.

Electric tools are huge. Get some air tools. Much easier to work with....get some earplugs though.

RacerJason

iTrader: (5)

If you have to run electric get an extension with a pencil grip that works with your grinder. Trying to do fine work with that cucumber in your hand will never produce the best results.

IAN

iTrader: (3)

looks like fun. I would think you could buy these from any local machine shop?

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I have no place to put a properly sized compressor, nor do I really have the money to spend on a decent one. Maybe I should start saving for one and just build a cabinet outside to put it in. I'd love to have air tools, would probably make my work go much more quickly.

mr.zoom

iTrader: (1)

mcmaster carr....is a good place to get bits n info

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The Bits are for a Dremel,or rotary tool.
1/4 inch..I dunno..it's small like about the Circumference of an old Bic pen.
(it looks like the one in your pic,at the start of your thread.)
Just thinking..they may NOT be Carbide though.
Check them out though.The box that they come in,you can open up to look at them.Heh!

gerald m

You need a pretty big compressor to run air tools it's ok for a little bit but if you don't have at least 10 to 15 c.f.m. you will run out of air right away .. Just get a nice electric one and run it with a foot pedal you can get snakes etc. for them to get into smaller places also easier to vary the speed and still have a little power...

Trots*88TII-AE*

iTrader: (11)

I got a hard to find large aluminum carbide for exhaust porting from this place: http://stores.ebay.com/Canadian-Tool-and-Supply They're Canadian and have fast shipping. This de-burr kit from Summit is pretty well priced, I got it to start: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900240/

And for runners I use flap wheels. I got a 60-grit multi-pack from Summit, but they no longer offer it. You should be able to find them anywhere, they make runners much much smoother than carbides, and keep the desired texture to the walls. If you use a mandrel and some sand paper to smooth the transitions to the port face, you get a pretty decent job.

granto

iTrader: (2)

Brafasco should have them but they won't be open on a Sunday. KBC tools in Mississauga will also have them.

Buggy

iTrader: (8)

Give your local Snap-on or Mac dealer a call. They have enough carbide burrs to make your head spin. They also have really long ones which work nice for doing exhaust ports and intake manifolds. I would also suggest getting an air compressor and a selection of die grinders. I have a little blue point pencil die grinder that worked awesome for porting my bridge port. Also, that bit that you got from racing beat is designed for non ferrous metals. Any bit that is designed for ferrous metals actually looks like a file.

now

iTrader: (1)

I buy jet carbide burrs they are good quality and have a warranty if this happens
return it and you get a new one free...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Screw air compressors and air grinders! Air grinders are awful tools to use. Loud, uncomfortable, and require a big enough compressor. If you don't have a big compressor already (at least 8 CFM for continuous use on a reasonable die grinder) then that is the big part of the expense ($700+).

A while ago I switched to using my Dremel to port. Previously I used a combination of my electric die grinder and air grinders (depending on where I was, whether air was available, etc.) and now I'd never go back from the Dremel. The bits are cheap at Princess Auto and come in a bewildering number of shapes and sizes and the tool is very easy to control due to it's size.

For irons, I make the ports with stones of various sizes. For the exhaust ports, which are more annoying due to the aluminum, I use a rotary file on the aluminum and stones on the steel/chrome. Then all the ports get finished with the little sanding drums. Most good Dremel kits also come with a long snake attachment.

Buy a name brand Dremel. There is nothing wrong with the generic Powerfist units except that they just don't last. They do the job, but for far less time as a good tool before the collet and other stuff wears out. And they eat motor brushes.

The first porting job, one always overkills it on the tools. That's when I bought my electric die grinder and a full cylinder head porting kit. The head porting kit (by Standard Abrasives) is awesome, but after a few porting jobs I got tired of dealing with the large die grinder and when the collet broke (I bought a replacement the next Monday...yay for companies like Jepson that still make good tools with parts available) I reached for the Dremel and never have looked back.

You may have seen this already, but here is the YouTube video of part 7 of my Cosmo project, where I port the intake and exhausts. You can see how easy the Dremel is to control and how it removes more material than one would think:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y1Gy5sVMK3o

Now if there is already air available, then there are micro die grinders that will do the job. But I say, why? A $50 Dremel kit is a better buy in my opinion. Then again, you can't sand blast with a Dremel.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

I did all my porting with an electric die grinder with the extension like aaron, using the grinding stones and sand paper bits. it came out pretty good.
you'll be spending alot of time smoothing stuff out after you grind it out with those carbide bits


It just so happened that when i was goin to port my engine CT had the MM dremil kits on for $50 came with any kind of bit you could use with a dremel, the extension wand thing, a piece that makes it into a little router/hole saw

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Should have updated the thread sooner. After posting this I started thinking about what Aaron suggested me a while back about the Dremel being much better. So I bought a Dremel 4000 which was on sale at Home Depot and have been playing with it past 2 days. I have been trying a large assortment of bits on my test irons and I have something I can use now to get those perfect curves. Will update when they're ready ^_^

thewird

thewird

iTrader: (8)

^_^, that little booboo at the bottom is only 1/2 a thou deep and I was planning to lap the irons anyway so that should be gone.




thewird

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

that little mark should be fine if it's not to deep just make sure its smooth, I had a little slip on one of my irons, but it wasn't to deep so I still used the iron, The engine still runs fine. I just figured it would fill in with carbon after

If you get the Irons lapped you should be getting them re-nitrated.
In the rotary ressurection rebuild PDF he talks about how he prefers used irons over relapped ones

thewird

iTrader: (8)

I only plan to take the surface off (like a thou max), Irons are within spec so I'm not trying to bring them back into spec by lapping them. Just give them a little finish. I believe the nitrate is 4 thou deep.

thewird

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I also wouldn't worry about the little bit skip. Scotch Brite the area to make sure it won't catch a seal and if your finger nail doesn't get caught, then it's fine.

Just curious, where are you having your plates surfaced?