Lsx fd?
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Lsx fd?
Any of you guys running ls swaps, I would very much like to get in touch with you guys. I am looking into this and would love to possibly see one in person.
Located in the GTA
Thanks
Khiz
Located in the GTA
Thanks
Khiz
#4
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Because rotaries have a short shelf life lol. Be prepared to spend a minimun 9-10k. I looked into this during the off season. There are a few lsx fds here, 2 people i know and are pretty approachable are paul3rdgen and zeeshan.
I think paul can also help you source out and ls/t56 setup....depending on your budget. My impression so far during a ride along with zeeshan is that the torque is freaking amazing, pins you to your seat. Being an n/a power is right there. But i thought that at higher rpms that it seems to fall a lil flat on its face. It also does not rev as high as rotaries which i immediately missed.
Mind you zeeshan has not finished working/tuning his car and im sure Paul's car may be a different story all together.
I think paul can also help you source out and ls/t56 setup....depending on your budget. My impression so far during a ride along with zeeshan is that the torque is freaking amazing, pins you to your seat. Being an n/a power is right there. But i thought that at higher rpms that it seems to fall a lil flat on its face. It also does not rev as high as rotaries which i immediately missed.
Mind you zeeshan has not finished working/tuning his car and im sure Paul's car may be a different story all together.
#6
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Thanks guys. I will try to contact those 2 and as for the kijiji link i'm mainly trying to get a hold of people with fds because that the route i would like to go and just thought talking to someone who's gone through the process would be of great help.
Thanks again
khiz
Thanks again
khiz
#7
Because you can pick up a used, good condition, all-aluminum L-series truck motor for a few hundred dollars that will make close to 400hp with a cam and stock ecu, and have amazing torque and responsiveness at any speed and any gear - and get 30+mpg highway to boot. Don't get me wrong - but when I can do a LS conversion for a few thou on my NA FC, vs the cost of getting anything like the same performance out of a TII swap, it's hard NOT to go that way - I love the rotary and all, but cost, fuel consumption, and reliability are all issues getting 300+hp out one. LS solves all those, and is light enough not to mess up the handling.
I have a friend with a SBC 350 conversion S4 FC, done a decade ago (aluminum heads, but not block, so a fair bit heavier than newer LS conversions). With 350hp, and the engine carryfully placed well back (the firewall was dollied to gain an inch or so around the old school dizzy and carb setup, and put the engine further back), the car is a demon on track or an autocross course. And he and I are running virtually the same suspension setup - I'm just down 200 whp and torque on him. I come out of his car, and I can't wipe the grin off of my face for an hour - and it takes a few days for my sore neck to recover from being snapped around by the lateral and longitudinal acceleration it can manage.
I have a friend with a SBC 350 conversion S4 FC, done a decade ago (aluminum heads, but not block, so a fair bit heavier than newer LS conversions). With 350hp, and the engine carryfully placed well back (the firewall was dollied to gain an inch or so around the old school dizzy and carb setup, and put the engine further back), the car is a demon on track or an autocross course. And he and I are running virtually the same suspension setup - I'm just down 200 whp and torque on him. I come out of his car, and I can't wipe the grin off of my face for an hour - and it takes a few days for my sore neck to recover from being snapped around by the lateral and longitudinal acceleration it can manage.
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#8
Double J...
Good link...
I'm more curious for when/who the first new 5.0 gets transplanted into a FD/FC and puts all the silly pushrod LSx swaps to shame... That new 5.0 woukd make a great all rounder... Decent on fuel, great potential for power (DOHC) and cause its a stang motor, its going to have lots of aftermarket support...
J.
Good link...
I'm more curious for when/who the first new 5.0 gets transplanted into a FD/FC and puts all the silly pushrod LSx swaps to shame... That new 5.0 woukd make a great all rounder... Decent on fuel, great potential for power (DOHC) and cause its a stang motor, its going to have lots of aftermarket support...
J.
#9
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
I put together an LS1/T56 FC and haven't regretted it. There are FCs around that are faster, but can't touch it for drivetrain reliability and fuel economy, not to mention cost difference. It's a fun car and I plan to do a FD one day.
#11
Why swap? A stock Fd w/ LS running 12s, 11 with slicks. Not to mention Daily Driver. Cheap easy and fun. Sleeper as long as you keep it in neutral ![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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http://youtu.be/ZUPXB1Ft4Gs
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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http://youtu.be/ZUPXB1Ft4Gs
#12
Double J...
Good link...
I'm more curious for when/who the first new 5.0 gets transplanted into a FD/FC and puts all the silly pushrod LSx swaps to shame... That new 5.0 woukd make a great all rounder... Decent on fuel, great potential for power (DOHC) and cause its a stang motor, its going to have lots of aftermarket support...
J.
Good link...
I'm more curious for when/who the first new 5.0 gets transplanted into a FD/FC and puts all the silly pushrod LSx swaps to shame... That new 5.0 woukd make a great all rounder... Decent on fuel, great potential for power (DOHC) and cause its a stang motor, its going to have lots of aftermarket support...
J.
#13
The answer is yes and yes. Yes it does fit yes it is a bit heavy but there already is a subframe kit that fits for all rx7 yes including yours. Yes I fit one even bigger than 5.0 try even 6.0. yes the answer fits into all. I have some links I'll be posting up and videos of me slamming the car through gears. Hopefully this weekend. Why do the swap? Cheap, reliable, 91 gas, daily driver running 12s, car can be bar approved. And if your talking about the weight ratio difference the weight ratio difference depending on vehicle engine and body type (yes this does matter and the moonroof/sunroof why weight distribution, but back to my point the difference consist of 140 pounds and you move the battery to the rear to compensate but the subframe kit helps the body support the engine (DUH).
#14
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Because you can pick up a used, good condition, all-aluminum L-series truck motor for a few hundred dollars that will make close to 400hp with a cam and stock ecu, and have amazing torque and responsiveness at any speed and any gear - and get 30+mpg highway to boot. Don't get me wrong - but when I can do a LS conversion for a few thou on my NA FC, vs the cost of getting anything like the same performance out of a TII swap, it's hard NOT to go that way - I love the rotary and all, but cost, fuel consumption, and reliability are all issues getting 300+hp out one. LS solves all those, and is light enough not to mess up the handling.
I have a friend with a SBC 350 conversion S4 FC, done a decade ago (aluminum heads, but not block, so a fair bit heavier than newer LS conversions). With 350hp, and the engine carryfully placed well back (the firewall was dollied to gain an inch or so around the old school dizzy and carb setup, and put the engine further back), the car is a demon on track or an autocross course. And he and I are running virtually the same suspension setup - I'm just down 200 whp and torque on him. I come out of his car, and I can't wipe the grin off of my face for an hour - and it takes a few days for my sore neck to recover from being snapped around by the lateral and longitudinal acceleration it can manage.
I have a friend with a SBC 350 conversion S4 FC, done a decade ago (aluminum heads, but not block, so a fair bit heavier than newer LS conversions). With 350hp, and the engine carryfully placed well back (the firewall was dollied to gain an inch or so around the old school dizzy and carb setup, and put the engine further back), the car is a demon on track or an autocross course. And he and I are running virtually the same suspension setup - I'm just down 200 whp and torque on him. I come out of his car, and I can't wipe the grin off of my face for an hour - and it takes a few days for my sore neck to recover from being snapped around by the lateral and longitudinal acceleration it can manage.
You are crazy if you think you can buy an LM4 for a few hundred dollars. A more likely price for the motor is around $1200-$1700. Stock ecu? Definitely. You will need a dyno session or at the very least a mail order tune to make 400 tho.
You might crack 400 wheel with heads, cam, intake, fuel pump, headers, full exhaust and a tune. It's possible but not cheap. Then you need to buy accessories like alternator bracket, fuel rail, injectors, water pump, and take care of the power steering among other miscellaneous things. The mount kit for an FC is going to set you back around the $500 shipped mark. Driveshaft will be at the very least $150. That weak 7 inch rear end in your NA will snap in the first ten minutes of driving the new setup. A set of axles and differential from a Turbo II you are looking at $400+. The transmission/clutch combo will be another $2000-2500 all in for a mid range setup. A good set of headers is $500+. Stailess exhaust will be $250+. Radiator + fans... the list goes on.
It will be easily $8000+ to properly convert your NA FC into a beast. I think it will be a lot of fun but by no means cheap.
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