ScrappyDoo

iTrader: (7)

Wow, you make me want to go out and wrench on the car...Nah its too cold.
Great thread I love the updates.

p4nc7

iTrader: (1)

Wow, that's amazing aaron keep up the good work, really looking forward to seeing ur car =)

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

as usual, some great attention to detail and persistence on doing it properly.
it's good to see that making your own intake manifold isn't impossible, just takes some hard work, skill, and time

i have a question, will the engine moving (due to torque) be an issue with your steel upper rad line now? it would seem that it may place stress on it since the rad is stationary.

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Are you running a 6 port or 4 port setup?

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

sick!

good work aaron, I can't wait to see it in person.

my car will have uhh, a surprise... under the hood.. You'll like it, I promise

Alak

iTrader: (9)

6-Port Bridge (All ports bridged) last I heard.


I should get you to help make a manifold for a future Perhiperal Port Project of mine. I have to fit a 4 - Barrel Holley Style Sqaure Bore Carburetor on a PP engine.

Congratulations. You've just made yourself the "Go-To" Guy for Custom Fab. Cheers Superstar.

Leigh Adams

from what I understood he made hard upper and rad pipes but will be using silicone connectors and T-style clamps.

unless he's hardmounting the engine inplace, I know Aaron isn't silly enough to securely connect his rad to the engine

keep up the good work Aaron. it's looking sweet!!
I'll have to show you pictures of my basement and garage modifications sometime unfortunately the car projects were put on hold for a few years due to my house fettish.
Leigh

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Everyone, I appreciate the positive comments. It's been such a long project and occasionally (though VERY occasionally and only for a very short period) there have been times when I stand back and wonder "Why?"...Just remembering people's encouragement and reactions is usually enough to get be back behind the welder/grinder/wrench/soldering iron.

We should arrange a meeting next time I am at CP...I'll reply to your PM soon. I want to see pics of your car.

The key word there is time. What I did was not particularly difficult, just very time consuming. No fancy tools (wow it would have been nice to have a machine shop in my garage)...just time.

Excellent question...And the answer is "I don't know". I'm hoping that I do not have to hard mount the engine and that the silicone couplers being used will have enough give at both ends. I'm also considering adding a torque brace to my strut bar which will also help. But if I have issues, I'll go to hard mounts.

The block is a freshly rebuilt (not even started yet) 6 port with the primary ports opened aggressively (think turbo-street port), secondaries ported out some and a bridge over the auxiliary ports. I wish I had continued the bridge down to make a full half-bridge, but I'll do that next time. Actually the next one will be full bridge.

A running engine? LOL...just kidding...Something about a Haltech?

I'm actually working on a PP 12A right now. Some of the pictures show it sitting on my bench in the background. But I'm going with fuel injection and two longish runners with individual throttle bodies.

It actually wouldn't be too hard to make a PP for your application. I'd imagine that all it would take are the two flanges and two U-bends.

I'm actually cleaning my basement right now...I'm not overstating when I say that it is a herculean task.

Alak

iTrader: (9)

Just a comment about engine tourque. I donno what your plans, Aaron, for mounting are, but in most cases I've seen, modified engines with stock mounts produce so much more tourque then stockers that you have to shave the fan shroud on both sides when using the stock clutch fan (I know your not, just an example). In Gary's case (84Stock), When he reverses, his airfilter on his carb hits the hood hard, enough to be visually noticable from a fair distance. He switched to E-Fan so his clutch fan is void since. Neil, another guy running similar setup, had to but his hood bracing to make his work. I have also heard there is a noticable difference in chassis strength when using solid mounts combined with a tourque brace. I dont think hood clearance is an issue with you, just the motion of the engine was far greater than I thought on stock mounts.


I know your alot more knowledgable, and probably thought of this, but I just thought I'd put that out there for others to ponder.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

no, it'll be a megasquirt - that's not what I'm talking about.

as far as the running engine comment goes - mine's run more than yours over thh last three years

I can't use stock engine mounts, though I've never bought a pair of brand new ones, I've never had excellent used ones last more than about 2 months... hard mounts rock! just don't use aluminum or something stupid, UHMW plastic is ideal...

84stock

iTrader: (5)

Aaron, are did you epoxy a bowl into the 5th & 6th ports, use pineapple sleeves or leave it stock?? Did you consider any of the above??

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's a good point. We'll just have to see after everything is assembled. My mounts are rather new and don't have a lot of slop compared to most of the other RX-7s I see, but I'll be ready with the solid mounts should I need them.

Touche...

So what is it? V8? 13B-RE? Stock port 12A? Offenhauser 4 cylinder? Insight drivetrain? Viper V10? Siemens 100KW AC motor?

They're stock. I know it's not the best for flow, but I don't trust epoxy. Also the Pineapple inserts have been known to fail as well. I could have machined a custome end piece, but didn't think of it at the time.