JDK's RX-7 483 rwhp @ 19 PSi
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JDK's RX-7 483 rwhp @ 19 PSi
Jimmy has gone full bridgeport now since he converted his car to a race car and was rebuilding the motor due to a stuck injector last event (which we found when the new motor idled like poo). Anyway, we hit the dyno since the car can't exactly be tuned on the street anymore. I had to leave the low-end a little rich as it was already 10pm when we got to this point so decided to pack it up as its ready for the track. I can clean up the low-end on track, the 7k and up is clean.
Like any race car, it was a long road getting to this point as things were optimized and improved and this will always be an ongoing process. I've been working with Jim on his car since 2008 when it still had the 35R and the car has seen a ton of changes since then. Mostly in the positive direction but not always. The car is a whole other animal now (literally, it wanted to jump off the dyno once we got to high boost and I could smell burning rubber LOL). Now to the dyno talk...
Now, the RPM wasn't correct on the dyno as I was pulling the motor to 9k (logged, hitting the rev limiter every pull) but the dyno only recorded a peak of 7,500 or so. So I created a new dyno plot using the torque values estimated where they should be. The dyno numbers are 100% raw uncorrected so there is no funny numbers. The max rwhp is 100% accurate as it was exactly 9,000 RPM but the lower half of the graph is an estimation based on my logs of when the car started making full boost and existing torque numbers. For those of you that don't know hp is a calculation of (TORQUE x RPM) / 5252 = HP so I'm not making up bullshit.
Also to note the intake temperatures were getting pretty hot as the fans are no where close to actual CFM of real driving. Intake temps @ 7,000 RPM were 38*C, 8,000 RPM were 45*C, and 9,000 RPM were 60*C (HOT). Temperatures are accurate and not heat soaked as the sensor is on the Greddy Elbow and its a fast reacting sensor. Timing is being retarded 1 degree at that temperature and power is being lost as well from the hot intake temp as well so realistically I believe the car is realistically over 500 rwhp on track but since it didn't put that down, just theorizing but anyone that knows about this stuff knows it is .
Did I mention the car is LOUD, MY EARS & EYES
Now to get my car running..............
CORRECT HP
RAW dyno plot (RPM is significantly off, therefore HP is understated)
thewird
Like any race car, it was a long road getting to this point as things were optimized and improved and this will always be an ongoing process. I've been working with Jim on his car since 2008 when it still had the 35R and the car has seen a ton of changes since then. Mostly in the positive direction but not always. The car is a whole other animal now (literally, it wanted to jump off the dyno once we got to high boost and I could smell burning rubber LOL). Now to the dyno talk...
Now, the RPM wasn't correct on the dyno as I was pulling the motor to 9k (logged, hitting the rev limiter every pull) but the dyno only recorded a peak of 7,500 or so. So I created a new dyno plot using the torque values estimated where they should be. The dyno numbers are 100% raw uncorrected so there is no funny numbers. The max rwhp is 100% accurate as it was exactly 9,000 RPM but the lower half of the graph is an estimation based on my logs of when the car started making full boost and existing torque numbers. For those of you that don't know hp is a calculation of (TORQUE x RPM) / 5252 = HP so I'm not making up bullshit.
Also to note the intake temperatures were getting pretty hot as the fans are no where close to actual CFM of real driving. Intake temps @ 7,000 RPM were 38*C, 8,000 RPM were 45*C, and 9,000 RPM were 60*C (HOT). Temperatures are accurate and not heat soaked as the sensor is on the Greddy Elbow and its a fast reacting sensor. Timing is being retarded 1 degree at that temperature and power is being lost as well from the hot intake temp as well so realistically I believe the car is realistically over 500 rwhp on track but since it didn't put that down, just theorizing but anyone that knows about this stuff knows it is .
Did I mention the car is LOUD, MY EARS & EYES
Now to get my car running..............
CORRECT HP
RAW dyno plot (RPM is significantly off, therefore HP is understated)
thewird
#6
Good work guys...nice to see local guys taking on the tunning factor on their own (I Know you have been playing with the PFC for a bit now). I know if i did it the car would have blown up LOL.
Question...if the car has been tuned already, but some new mods have been done. Can the old tune be kept/logged when a new one is being done?
Mine was tuned by Steve a few years back and id like a new tune, but dont want to lose the old one.
Question...if the car has been tuned already, but some new mods have been done. Can the old tune be kept/logged when a new one is being done?
Mine was tuned by Steve a few years back and id like a new tune, but dont want to lose the old one.
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Yah, I'm just the guy behind the scenes giving it the reliable power that keeps it from blowing up lol >_>
Anyway, yes you can keep the old tune if your want. I actually keep everyones maps and save the original when I begin. On a few occassions had to reload the maps as the owners would rest the pfc playing around with the commander lol.
Powerfc aren't the only ecu's I tune too :p
thewird
Anyway, yes you can keep the old tune if your want. I actually keep everyones maps and save the original when I begin. On a few occassions had to reload the maps as the owners would rest the pfc playing around with the commander lol.
Powerfc aren't the only ecu's I tune too :p
thewird
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Thats sic! Good work guys!
Just curious though...what octane fuel? compressor inlet size? exhaust housing A/R?
You only made 20hp more than I did on a streetport using 91 octane pump fuel. Not knocking you guys, just wondering where the differences are in the setups.
Just curious though...what octane fuel? compressor inlet size? exhaust housing A/R?
You only made 20hp more than I did on a streetport using 91 octane pump fuel. Not knocking you guys, just wondering where the differences are in the setups.
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On a side note, he gave me a dynojet dyno sheet which after correcting the RPM, rated about 550 rwhp. That seemed a little high and its making a correction for the difference to dynojet so I didn't even bother mentioning it.
thewird
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Congrats to Jimmy, he did a 1:17.8 at Cayuga today on his first day out with the new setup. His fastest lap time yet. We'll go faster next time, I need to put my logger in the car as Jim doesn't give me enough feedback to do what I gotta do lol.
Officially faster then my car now lol. Gotta pick up the slack next season with the 20b
thewird
Officially faster then my car now lol. Gotta pick up the slack next season with the 20b
thewird
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ninesixtwo, you forgot to cross torque & horsepower @ 5252 RPM.
TD07, short answer no. With the right turbo and setup, probably could. You'll have more luck with a semi-pport to achieve that goal and still, why 91? Some low compression rotors in a 13b-RE with a semi-pport and a 70mm+ turbo sounds like the way to do it. Honestly, anything is possible. It all comes down to how streetable do you want to make it, how long you want it to last, how much do you want to spend. And lets not all forget, what dyno your going on
thewird
TD07, short answer no. With the right turbo and setup, probably could. You'll have more luck with a semi-pport to achieve that goal and still, why 91? Some low compression rotors in a 13b-RE with a semi-pport and a 70mm+ turbo sounds like the way to do it. Honestly, anything is possible. It all comes down to how streetable do you want to make it, how long you want it to last, how much do you want to spend. And lets not all forget, what dyno your going on
thewird