HP/ Dollar Performance
#28
Originally Posted by MyRxBad
Who was the guy in the 1st gen section, with the all-motor fb that ran in the 10's? I don't think he's on the forum anymore, but you may find some good posts in the 1st gen section on this matter.
Personal opinion: You'll never hit 10's with $5k. Not unless you score an all motor car for less then that.
Personal opinion: You'll never hit 10's with $5k. Not unless you score an all motor car for less then that.
Jesus Padilla, and he runs 9's... all motor peripheral port.
#29
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Feb 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
I've been thinking about this. If someone made me the same bet, I would ask how long it has to last. If it's just a few runs, then my plan would be:
1. Stripper 1st gen. Remove as much as possible, gut the doors, etc.
2. Peripheral port 13B. Homemade housings with hole saw and exhaust tubing. Reuse all seals except apex coolant-rings (and other misc gaskets)
3. BIG turbo. Biggest I can find at the wreckers. Exact unit unimportant, but something from the biggest, baddest diesel I could find. Manifold made from scrap pipe and metal
4. Intercooler from same vehicle I salvaged turbo. Piping made from scrap.
5. Fuel by Megasquirt. Whatever big injectors I can find. Multiple low cost random pumps paralleled.
6. Ignition using 12A dizzy and coil set up. Generic performance coils and wires
7. Tranny, driveshaft and rear end from older Mustang. Dirt cheap.
And there you have it. It's a lot of fab, but cash outlay looks to be well under $5K. Now, if you are looking for a car that will actually be RELIABLE and a daily driver, then it's a different story...
1. Stripper 1st gen. Remove as much as possible, gut the doors, etc.
2. Peripheral port 13B. Homemade housings with hole saw and exhaust tubing. Reuse all seals except apex coolant-rings (and other misc gaskets)
3. BIG turbo. Biggest I can find at the wreckers. Exact unit unimportant, but something from the biggest, baddest diesel I could find. Manifold made from scrap pipe and metal
4. Intercooler from same vehicle I salvaged turbo. Piping made from scrap.
5. Fuel by Megasquirt. Whatever big injectors I can find. Multiple low cost random pumps paralleled.
6. Ignition using 12A dizzy and coil set up. Generic performance coils and wires
7. Tranny, driveshaft and rear end from older Mustang. Dirt cheap.
And there you have it. It's a lot of fab, but cash outlay looks to be well under $5K. Now, if you are looking for a car that will actually be RELIABLE and a daily driver, then it's a different story...
#30
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2001
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From: London, Ontario, Canada
Another idea: Have someone else drive it. I don't mean to insult you but I would suggest that most of us in this forum are not particularly good drag racers and don't have experience driving a 10 second car. Find someone who's had some experience racing a similar kind of car. I'd also start with a fresh car because do you really want to have a hacked up street car?
There's a guy on the forum called wickedrx2 who is running a Toyota starlet with a carbed semi-periperhal port Cosmo engine with a T78 turbo. I think he's put in a 11.2 second run or something. Something along those lines would get you to your goal and be fairly economical. Perhaps NO2 would be the best solution. As with almost everyone else who's posted, I'm out of my depth giving advice on this one. The racecar forum might be your best bet.
Judge Ito: I had a streetable 13B bridgeport Toyota starlet running 9.58@138mph on just that 13B bridgeport with some nitrous oxide on a chevy 10 bolt rearend I was using 5.13 gears. https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/82-starlet-13b-cosmo-re-t72-turbo-148063/
There's a guy on the forum called wickedrx2 who is running a Toyota starlet with a carbed semi-periperhal port Cosmo engine with a T78 turbo. I think he's put in a 11.2 second run or something. Something along those lines would get you to your goal and be fairly economical. Perhaps NO2 would be the best solution. As with almost everyone else who's posted, I'm out of my depth giving advice on this one. The racecar forum might be your best bet.
Judge Ito: I had a streetable 13B bridgeport Toyota starlet running 9.58@138mph on just that 13B bridgeport with some nitrous oxide on a chevy 10 bolt rearend I was using 5.13 gears. https://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/82-starlet-13b-cosmo-re-t72-turbo-148063/
#31
Aaron, I'm thinking a lot along the lines that you are, however it has to be a bit more than a one time thing.. otherwise it was just a waste of money.. and possibly my money. I'm not yet one to gamble that high.. but I think its do-able.. thus I took the challenge.
Because I get to keep the mods that I get if I make it into the 10's.. I want it to be something I can SLAP together in a GS.. STRIPPED RIGHT DOWN.. and then later on transfer the somewhat reasonable drivetrain into the SE. (otherwise why bother).
I am going to have to get a diff swap. This will be required. The AUS guys say use a Toyota Hilux diff. What model truck that converts to in canada, I'm not sure. I will find this out.
I'm a huge rotary fan, but i'm not sure that it can be done for under $5g's this way. However, I've also been interested in having a 5.0L 302 Fuel Injected engine w/ 88+ World Class Borg/Warner T-5. I like the 302's capability, and it is light. Granny's speed shop has kits to mount this up. Working on a 302 is easy. They also have a lot of potential.
One thing a few of you guys are mis reading, is that one of the specifications for the bet are that I cannot use NITROUS OXIDE.
So that leaves a few things for sure... I will clear them up again.. so that any tips/ideas do not conflict with what I have going.
1).. No N2O.
2).. $5g's or less.. *CDN*
3).. Base model FB or SA. STRIPPED RIGHT DOWN.
4).. Diff swap.. (hilux, ford 9".. etc)
5).. 10.99 or less in the 1/4mile.
Daryl
Oh, and snrub, thanks for the info.. However, I have quite a few professional drag racing friends.. and they will help me through it.
Kevin Therres.. (eatmore racing funny car) is from my home town, and I regularly used to talk to him about his 2600hp Hemi funny car.. (runs a Best ET of 5.98).
Because I get to keep the mods that I get if I make it into the 10's.. I want it to be something I can SLAP together in a GS.. STRIPPED RIGHT DOWN.. and then later on transfer the somewhat reasonable drivetrain into the SE. (otherwise why bother).
I am going to have to get a diff swap. This will be required. The AUS guys say use a Toyota Hilux diff. What model truck that converts to in canada, I'm not sure. I will find this out.
I'm a huge rotary fan, but i'm not sure that it can be done for under $5g's this way. However, I've also been interested in having a 5.0L 302 Fuel Injected engine w/ 88+ World Class Borg/Warner T-5. I like the 302's capability, and it is light. Granny's speed shop has kits to mount this up. Working on a 302 is easy. They also have a lot of potential.
One thing a few of you guys are mis reading, is that one of the specifications for the bet are that I cannot use NITROUS OXIDE.
So that leaves a few things for sure... I will clear them up again.. so that any tips/ideas do not conflict with what I have going.
1).. No N2O.
2).. $5g's or less.. *CDN*
3).. Base model FB or SA. STRIPPED RIGHT DOWN.
4).. Diff swap.. (hilux, ford 9".. etc)
5).. 10.99 or less in the 1/4mile.
Daryl
Oh, and snrub, thanks for the info.. However, I have quite a few professional drag racing friends.. and they will help me through it.
Kevin Therres.. (eatmore racing funny car) is from my home town, and I regularly used to talk to him about his 2600hp Hemi funny car.. (runs a Best ET of 5.98).
#32
Hilux = Tundra to you guys i think.
As going towards the V8 option - I would personally go all rotor.
one thing which was NOT stated was the fuel type - now i would be running this bitch on alachol/ethanol - that there makes your job a lot easier.
one questions you need to ask yourself:
where are you going to run this? - no dragstip is going to let you run without series saftey equipment. = bling bling
Personally if i was you and this isn't going to a drag stip would to get extra extra dodgey with the liberal removing of metal, you don't need doors, you don't need a bonnet, hell you don't need any glass either.
In the engine department i would be tempted to "borrow" a 20b eccentric shaft from someone then wack butcher up some PP housings and make your own intake mani preferably to a massive 800cfm holley or something similar and just make you own exaust man to dump behind front wheels. then hook it upto some ethanol.
then with the rear wheels i reckon the toyata rear is probly best, just cut out the fenders a bit and pt on the widdest wheels you can find.
of course this would only survvive 1 or 2 runs and probly not be able to turn, but it will be cheap.
As going towards the V8 option - I would personally go all rotor.
one thing which was NOT stated was the fuel type - now i would be running this bitch on alachol/ethanol - that there makes your job a lot easier.
one questions you need to ask yourself:
where are you going to run this? - no dragstip is going to let you run without series saftey equipment. = bling bling
Personally if i was you and this isn't going to a drag stip would to get extra extra dodgey with the liberal removing of metal, you don't need doors, you don't need a bonnet, hell you don't need any glass either.
In the engine department i would be tempted to "borrow" a 20b eccentric shaft from someone then wack butcher up some PP housings and make your own intake mani preferably to a massive 800cfm holley or something similar and just make you own exaust man to dump behind front wheels. then hook it upto some ethanol.
then with the rear wheels i reckon the toyata rear is probly best, just cut out the fenders a bit and pt on the widdest wheels you can find.
of course this would only survvive 1 or 2 runs and probly not be able to turn, but it will be cheap.
#34
shamrock.james. thank you very much for reminding me that I won't be able to take it to a track. They simply won't let me without a bunch of safety items. These items cost money.
I'm curious to see what kind of HP gains can be achieved using alcohol/ethanol.
Daryl
I'm curious to see what kind of HP gains can be achieved using alcohol/ethanol.
Daryl
#35
i think your gonna need a 6pt cage for 10s.. can you weld? get the main bar for your project bent at a shop.. then weld cut your own pipes...and weld it in yourself.. or at least cut the pipes yourself... then you might get past tech.,. oh and a power cut switch...
but its the little things that add up... ie power wires to relocate the battery ( mayaswell for weight and since you have to run a power for the cutoff switch anyways
and numerous other things..
i know that i could do it.. but i would use a piston motor. and not a v8... turbo 4 cyl...
Paul
but its the little things that add up... ie power wires to relocate the battery ( mayaswell for weight and since you have to run a power for the cutoff switch anyways
and numerous other things..
i know that i could do it.. but i would use a piston motor. and not a v8... turbo 4 cyl...
Paul
#36
Originally Posted by 84stock
Ya'all know how Daryl's gonna cut his car from 2600lbs to 2400lbs don't ya! He's gonna leave his girlfriend at the curb with a bag of Dorito's every time he has a race. Sure fire way to cut 200lbs and make his car a little quicker. The et calculator says this will shave .4 of his e.t. at the track.
omg, didn't see that comming....good one.
#38
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,962
Likes: 33
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Originally Posted by MyRxBad
Who was the guy in the 1st gen section, with the all-motor fb that ran in the 10's? I don't think he's on the forum anymore, but you may find some good posts in the 1st gen section on this matter.
I think you're thinking of AJC13B.. Don't remember if he was all-motor, but he was definitely in the 10s.
Edit: found the site, nope he's turbo.
http://www.hitman.hm/ajc13b.htm
Jon
Last edited by vipernicus42; 03-09-06 at 08:55 PM.
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