help
08-20-09, 06:23 PM
#1
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help
I know this has been posted many times
I am getting my exhaust done tomorrow as the old one is rotted, will my car pass emissions with a high flow cat, and dual catback exhaust (2.5")
89 rx7, with 135xxxkms, tune up just done
I am getting my exhaust done tomorrow as the old one is rotted, will my car pass emissions with a high flow cat, and dual catback exhaust (2.5")
89 rx7, with 135xxxkms, tune up just done
08-20-09, 08:17 PM
#2
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While the exhaust helps out I am pretty sure there are many other factors that can lead to a pass or a fail. For example how much pollution the engine puts out, the tune, and so on.
While this does not help to answer your question I am pretty sure it would be difficult to give a definitive answer based on your post.
While this does not help to answer your question I am pretty sure it would be difficult to give a definitive answer based on your post.
08-20-09, 08:25 PM
#3
Changing your exhaust doesn't affect you passing or failing. The presence of a catalytic convertor, condition of engine and emission control equipment affects your emission testing results.
Your exhaust leaking would cause us to reject the e-test until its fixed because not only is it pumping out harmful pollutants and it reduces the dilution of the sample which can make you pass if the car is supposed to fail. The gas cap has to hold pressure as well or you will be forced to buy a new one or the test will not be run.
High flow cats tend to be a lot worse than ones of OEM quality though I've heard the Bonez ones are fairly good quality.
PS I am Ontario Drive Clean Certified.
Your exhaust leaking would cause us to reject the e-test until its fixed because not only is it pumping out harmful pollutants and it reduces the dilution of the sample which can make you pass if the car is supposed to fail. The gas cap has to hold pressure as well or you will be forced to buy a new one or the test will not be run.
High flow cats tend to be a lot worse than ones of OEM quality though I've heard the Bonez ones are fairly good quality.
PS I am Ontario Drive Clean Certified.
08-22-09, 12:05 PM
#7
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Perhaps MazdaMike02 can help you. From reading his post, I would suggest a trip over to his place. He would understand your FC more than other places would.
I'm assuming of course that you are not restricted to having to get your car tested in the same locale as where the car is registered. 
I'm not absolutely positive on that as we don't have emission testing requirements here.
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08-22-09, 04:11 PM
#10
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Get cleaner air, run lowest octane possible, and run NGK factory or hotter plugs. Check your timing.
NOx emissions are a result of combustion temperature, so if you have some room to run a little bit hotter burn temperature, it should help burn up some of the excess fuel and carbon if it is running rich (which is your HC reading).
How far off were your HCs anyways? Did you have too high NOx at idle too or no?
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plugs.cfm
Take a look, maybe try advancing the timing a little bit for the test, or go on a day when it's not 100% humidity and 30 degrees outside (no air density).
NOx emissions are a result of combustion temperature, so if you have some room to run a little bit hotter burn temperature, it should help burn up some of the excess fuel and carbon if it is running rich (which is your HC reading).
How far off were your HCs anyways? Did you have too high NOx at idle too or no?
http://www.ngksparkplugs.ca/tech-info-spark-plugs.cfm
Take a look, maybe try advancing the timing a little bit for the test, or go on a day when it's not 100% humidity and 30 degrees outside (no air density).
08-22-09, 06:22 PM
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08-22-09, 08:53 PM
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okay, i mean we all know we are running rich...we drive cars with rotaries in them...but if you have a new cat and are putting out numebrs like that...you must be running seriously rich man. the car would reak of fuel and i would think you'd leave a little cloud behind you ever time you got on it too. So either get a "friend" to test your car or get that thing runnning properly.
08-23-09, 10:00 AM
#17
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You won't find that friend on the internet.
Get some "Guaranteed to Pass", put it in the tank for the test.
Advance your timing, and use NGK plugs.
Warm the car up, and go for the test. Pay the twenty bucks.
Then, when you fail, you'll have new readings. Perhaps now it only failed HC at idle by a few hairs rather than everything. Then you have new options to try, and you have minimized your problems.
Or, you pass, and it's over.
Get some "Guaranteed to Pass", put it in the tank for the test.
Advance your timing, and use NGK plugs.
Warm the car up, and go for the test. Pay the twenty bucks.
Then, when you fail, you'll have new readings. Perhaps now it only failed HC at idle by a few hairs rather than everything. Then you have new options to try, and you have minimized your problems.
Or, you pass, and it's over.
08-23-09, 08:39 PM
#18
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Right - no one is going to advertise on the web that they'll issue an illegal test result. I think you'll have to go to a few shops and ask in person. I heard that some people pay $250 for one of these.
For what it's worth, I used to take my 1986 MR2 to a fellow in Thornhill - Gary Chin. I don't know what or how he did it, but my car always passed and he just charged me the regular rate. KGF Auto Service Center Ltd. (905) 709-9733.
For what it's worth, I used to take my 1986 MR2 to a fellow in Thornhill - Gary Chin. I don't know what or how he did it, but my car always passed and he just charged me the regular rate. KGF Auto Service Center Ltd. (905) 709-9733.
08-28-09, 04:37 PM
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so I took a look @ my air pump today, it has a tube coming off of the top that goes absolutely no where, it is sucking in air upon idle, and when you give it gas, I think it should be going somewhere, any suggestions, this would cause it to run rich would it not?
09-06-09, 01:09 PM
#22
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Look how rich it's running!
Those plugs should not be black on the tips. Advance the timing on the CAS, you might even notice more power.
That air pump line is a suction side line only, so as long as you're cool with unfiltered air entering the airpump, then don't worry about it.
Are those ordered by leading and trailing per rotor? If so, looks like one rotor is running alot richer, which could suggest numerous things... Leaky injector on that side of the engine, low compression on that side, restricted intake on that side, one 6 port sleeve stuck, etc.
Those plugs should not be black on the tips. Advance the timing on the CAS, you might even notice more power.
That air pump line is a suction side line only, so as long as you're cool with unfiltered air entering the airpump, then don't worry about it.
Are those ordered by leading and trailing per rotor? If so, looks like one rotor is running alot richer, which could suggest numerous things... Leaky injector on that side of the engine, low compression on that side, restricted intake on that side, one 6 port sleeve stuck, etc.
