First time RX-7 buyer. Pricing concerns.
08-25-09, 10:01 AM
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First time RX-7 buyer. Pricing concerns.
So I'm looking through Kijiji Toronto. And i see a few FC's around $4000. A bit high in my price range but whatever. Then I see an FC for 1500.
Is this common? Or should I be extremely wary of these situations?
What is a price decent price for this car?
What are the things I should look out for?
Tricks that people use to sell them quicker?
Is this one http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ139987471 a bargain? Sorry I'm still new and still trying to learn.
Is this common? Or should I be extremely wary of these situations?
What is a price decent price for this car?
What are the things I should look out for?
Tricks that people use to sell them quicker?
Is this one http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ139987471 a bargain? Sorry I'm still new and still trying to learn.
08-25-09, 10:11 AM
#2
I am going to assume you want a FC.
It depends what you are looking for. Below are several things to consider:
1) Do you want a turn key car that starts and drive or a fix'er upper that requires work before you can enjoy it?
2) Do you want a Series 4 (1986-1988) or a Series 5 (1989-1991)?
3) Do you want a normally aspirated car or a turbo car?
It depends what you are looking for. Below are several things to consider:
1) Do you want a turn key car that starts and drive or a fix'er upper that requires work before you can enjoy it?
2) Do you want a Series 4 (1986-1988) or a Series 5 (1989-1991)?
3) Do you want a normally aspirated car or a turbo car?
08-25-09, 10:15 AM
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I want a turnkey car that starts and drives.
The S4 or S5....I dont really know the differences...I know the taillights but then i found someone's DIY on installing the S5 taillights on the S4. I wasnt sure of the other differences.
I'd prefer an NA than a turbo. would be cheaper insurance. and would help me save some gas. and it'd be more reliable from what i read.
The S4 or S5....I dont really know the differences...I know the taillights but then i found someone's DIY on installing the S5 taillights on the S4. I wasnt sure of the other differences.
I'd prefer an NA than a turbo. would be cheaper insurance. and would help me save some gas. and it'd be more reliable from what i read.
08-25-09, 10:18 AM
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400WHP or bust
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Well, I just picked up a Solid 1986 GXL with 117000km's for $1200, he was asking $3500. Just have to be firm with what you think the car is worth.
08-25-09, 10:26 AM
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$1200?! and the car runs fine? i dont really care about the body TOO much but i dont want it all rusty.
I care more about the state that the engine is in.
I care more about the state that the engine is in.
08-25-09, 10:30 AM
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400WHP or bust
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Yeah it runs and drives awesome!!! Has original tires on the front, needs paint because it's faded to crap, but not a spec of rust on it, so the car will be going to Classicauto sometime. So there are great deals out there.
08-25-09, 10:33 AM
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yeah...no money for rebuild. haha. and trust me guys, i would love a turbo. but i know myself, during winter in a turbo rwd. i dont think id fare too well. only reason i want an NA is less power. also the reliability issue.
i just dont want it breaking down on the way to school in the middle of winter or something.
besides, when im done school and making cash, ill get a TII or an FD.
i just dont want it breaking down on the way to school in the middle of winter or something.
besides, when im done school and making cash, ill get a TII or an FD.
08-25-09, 10:53 AM
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nismoconvert, how do you check for the engine of a rotary? like i dont mind if i have to rebuild it like next year and a half or so but i dont know what kind of things to look for in the engine/bay
08-25-09, 11:57 AM
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the smart thing to do would be to start reading threads until your eyes bleed. nothing ill put here is hidden or secret information, itll save u havin to search but wont really make u smarter
does the car start?, crank strong an fire up without havin to dance on the throttle?
pop rad cap while car warms up, look for bubbles, once warm rev engine a few times gently with cap off, look for bubbles, u dont want bubbles, thats ur ghetto coolant seal test
listen to the idle, is is solid or hunting, hunting can be anything from a vac leak to a toasted rotor with all kinds of fun inbetween, your ghetto vac leak/TPS test
check the oil, is it black? is it leaking? OMP lines leaking? oil cooler and lines leaking?
pull the plugs n have a look at them, see what they look like are they burnt? caked? fairly consistant between front an back rotors? ghetto ignition test
with lower plugs removed crank the engine over (be smart, unhook plug wires an fuse so u arent cranking with fuel an spark) listen for 6 consistant poofs, thats yur ghetto compression test
drive it, make sure its smooth, settles down to idle without stalling, revs smoothly, pulls hard and steady. this is your ghetto dyno test
after drivin it an gettin it warmed up shut it off hot, let it sit for about 30 seconds an see if it will start right up again or if its flooded out, theres ur ghetto leaky injector test.
if u have any questions regarding the above, you should use the search. u will learn more that way by accident and find out answers an questions you didnt know to ask yet.
does the car start?, crank strong an fire up without havin to dance on the throttle?
pop rad cap while car warms up, look for bubbles, once warm rev engine a few times gently with cap off, look for bubbles, u dont want bubbles, thats ur ghetto coolant seal test
listen to the idle, is is solid or hunting, hunting can be anything from a vac leak to a toasted rotor with all kinds of fun inbetween, your ghetto vac leak/TPS test
check the oil, is it black? is it leaking? OMP lines leaking? oil cooler and lines leaking?
pull the plugs n have a look at them, see what they look like are they burnt? caked? fairly consistant between front an back rotors? ghetto ignition test
with lower plugs removed crank the engine over (be smart, unhook plug wires an fuse so u arent cranking with fuel an spark) listen for 6 consistant poofs, thats yur ghetto compression test
drive it, make sure its smooth, settles down to idle without stalling, revs smoothly, pulls hard and steady. this is your ghetto dyno test
after drivin it an gettin it warmed up shut it off hot, let it sit for about 30 seconds an see if it will start right up again or if its flooded out, theres ur ghetto leaky injector test.
if u have any questions regarding the above, you should use the search. u will learn more that way by accident and find out answers an questions you didnt know to ask yet.
08-25-09, 12:08 PM
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i read some of that from some guys website, it stated most of the stuff there.
although i dont know how to tell which one is the lead spark plug and trail, for the ghetto compression test.
ive been reading up alot the past few days.
thanks for the leaky injector test. didnt know about that one yet!
if theres a guide on this forum, a prod in the right direction would be helpful. thanks.
just tryin to learn more and more about rotaries so i dont buy something and need a rebuild in the dead of winter.
although i dont know how to tell which one is the lead spark plug and trail, for the ghetto compression test.
ive been reading up alot the past few days.
thanks for the leaky injector test. didnt know about that one yet!
if theres a guide on this forum, a prod in the right direction would be helpful. thanks.
just tryin to learn more and more about rotaries so i dont buy something and need a rebuild in the dead of winter.
08-25-09, 12:15 PM
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400WHP or bust
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i read some of that from some guys website, it stated most of the stuff there.
although i dont know how to tell which one is the lead spark plug and trail, for the ghetto compression test.
ive been reading up alot the past few days.
thanks for the leaky injector test. didnt know about that one yet!
if theres a guide on this forum, a prod in the right direction would be helpful. thanks.
just tryin to learn more and more about rotaries so i dont buy something and need a rebuild in the dead of winter.
although i dont know how to tell which one is the lead spark plug and trail, for the ghetto compression test.
ive been reading up alot the past few days.
thanks for the leaky injector test. didnt know about that one yet!
if theres a guide on this forum, a prod in the right direction would be helpful. thanks.
just tryin to learn more and more about rotaries so i dont buy something and need a rebuild in the dead of winter.
Trailing = Top
Leading = Lower
#1 rotor is the most foraward, and #2 is the one behind it.
08-25-09, 01:43 PM
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i was talking to him about it already, he even offered to drive it to me. im just trying to gather the funds while learning more. and hopefully get it before he leaves.
08-25-09, 02:09 PM
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Lol, I was going to post this same thread a while back...but I got lazy.
Not to threadjack here, but I think this will also help/give some goos insight for me and you r4itei.
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ147705912
how do you guys feel about new engines? I feel like good about it because its a new engine, however...in the pics it doesnt look like it and Im thinking if the owner had to get a new engine, that the issues that caused the original problem could still be there.
Not to threadjack here, but I think this will also help/give some goos insight for me and you r4itei.
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehi...AdIdZ147705912
how do you guys feel about new engines? I feel like good about it because its a new engine, however...in the pics it doesnt look like it and Im thinking if the owner had to get a new engine, that the issues that caused the original problem could still be there.
08-25-09, 02:15 PM
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haha damn, i got caught, i didnt link that so no1 else would see it but someone else found it, i like it, looks really sexy. and the fact that it has the new engine makes me feel better. if its close to his place, i drive the car there, confirm that they did the work, how long the warranty is, if theres warranty, even better. but its really cheap, thats why im apprehensive about that one, but it looks really good in black, better than the tanned ugly brown one.
08-26-09, 07:54 AM
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forgot this one
wind it up in 2nd gear from 2000rpm to redline. check for a smooth transition and power boost at 3500rpm, thats your ghetto 6 port actuator test. also another small boost at 5500 rpm, thats your ghetto secondary injector test.
wind it up in 2nd gear from 2000rpm to redline. check for a smooth transition and power boost at 3500rpm, thats your ghetto 6 port actuator test. also another small boost at 5500 rpm, thats your ghetto secondary injector test.
08-26-09, 08:08 AM
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checked that link u were "hiding" :P
the new starter makes me wonder if it didnt have flooding issues at one point (and may still now) thats how i kill starters anyway
not to **** on anyones sense of style but the last place to put white guage faces is in a nice black inteior like that, the look fails me anyway. that aside, if he has removed the guage cluster and such to swap the faces he may have pooched the headlight or turn signal switches which will happily fail without any help at all, let alone when u start messin with em as they can be a bitch to unhook.
2 grand seems pretty cheep, id have a good look unerneath for rust and abuse, have a good look at the tires to see if its been drifting, check suspension components for bent linkages (they come from curbs, aks me how i know), and look for accident damage, make sure the doors hatch n hood all open an close properly.
and get searchin, leading is denoted with a L and the trailing believe it or not has a T, cast right onto the rotor housings, inches from the plug wires. the T is on Top and the L is the Lower one.
the new starter makes me wonder if it didnt have flooding issues at one point (and may still now) thats how i kill starters anyway
not to **** on anyones sense of style but the last place to put white guage faces is in a nice black inteior like that, the look fails me anyway. that aside, if he has removed the guage cluster and such to swap the faces he may have pooched the headlight or turn signal switches which will happily fail without any help at all, let alone when u start messin with em as they can be a bitch to unhook.
2 grand seems pretty cheep, id have a good look unerneath for rust and abuse, have a good look at the tires to see if its been drifting, check suspension components for bent linkages (they come from curbs, aks me how i know), and look for accident damage, make sure the doors hatch n hood all open an close properly.
and get searchin, leading is denoted with a L and the trailing believe it or not has a T, cast right onto the rotor housings, inches from the plug wires. the T is on Top and the L is the Lower one.
08-26-09, 09:17 AM
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Here's a bit of info to get you started on what to check:
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy1.htm
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/buy2.htm
08-26-09, 10:04 AM
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thanks aaron, i found your site when looking through the FAQs. very informative. thanks!
im gonna do most of the tests that i saw on aarons. the ghetto flood test too. and now the new "smooth powerband test" too.
its daonhathai selling it. and there are cheaper ones like $1500, im more wary of those. anyway, seller says he still got receipts for the new engine, hopefully it was done with a shop that backs it with waranty. he was about to part the car before i msged him. he sold the white gauges but hes got another one laying around.
i am quite concerned about a $2000 fresh rebuild but gonna find out why soon enough. guess he works on it for kicks and makes a profit. he says floor needs patching. no idea if that means a hole on the floor or what. body isnt really a big deal. so long as its mechanically sound.
im gonna do most of the tests that i saw on aarons. the ghetto flood test too. and now the new "smooth powerband test" too.
its daonhathai selling it. and there are cheaper ones like $1500, im more wary of those. anyway, seller says he still got receipts for the new engine, hopefully it was done with a shop that backs it with waranty. he was about to part the car before i msged him. he sold the white gauges but hes got another one laying around.
i am quite concerned about a $2000 fresh rebuild but gonna find out why soon enough. guess he works on it for kicks and makes a profit. he says floor needs patching. no idea if that means a hole on the floor or what. body isnt really a big deal. so long as its mechanically sound.
08-26-09, 06:21 PM
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learn something everyday.. didnt know about the secondaries/vdi thing
maybe its just me but whenevre i buy parts or cars off other forum members i typically hit thier profile and "view threads started by" and have a good look at the threads they started, will usually give u an idea of what ur getting
as for me at least so far ive always found info on what i was buying in the sellers previous posts.
maybe its just me but whenevre i buy parts or cars off other forum members i typically hit thier profile and "view threads started by" and have a good look at the threads they started, will usually give u an idea of what ur getting
as for me at least so far ive always found info on what i was buying in the sellers previous posts.
