Custom V-mount with Cold Air Ducting
#26
I'm in the process of doing the full PS to manual conversion. Just have to bolt everything back again. We will see how much of a difference it makes. I drove the car for a few years with it looped.
#27
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My idea is coming to fruition, the v-mount is almost done. The raditor is already fixed in place and the intercooler is roughly where its going to be. It is not hitting the hood in the position it is in and has a very good angle for airflow.
thewird
thewird
#28
Nice lookin. I'm surprised to see how much of an angle the rads on (I own an FC so no reference). I guess the idea is that the incoming air will get trapped into the V so as it builds it's forced to turn and some goes down some up?
#29
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Thats the job of the ducting to make sure it has no where else to go except radiator, intercooler, and intake. I'm also gonna add an adjustable splitter to guide the air more to the intercooler or the radiator depending on temps.
thewird
thewird
#32
I've thought about vmount, but cant justify buying a new hood and replacing the sexiness of the stock t2 hood.
It looks good. can't wait to see it finished.
#35
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Still the same as in the pictures. It should be ready this week although ducting might be missing. Ducting might be ready the week after but I'm gonna be driving the car this week as soon as everything is fixed in place and my suspension is setup .
thewird
thewird
#39
i am in the middle of building the same setup, just curious how you ran the hose on the lower front closest to the bmpr? pics? did you run it under the rad behind the fans or did you mod the rad so both hoses come out at the top now closest to the water pump?
#42
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thewird
#44
Looks like it paid off too. I did some quick tuning to 14 PSi tonight just so I could have some fun. I now get full boost by 3800 RPM! With my old setup it would only get full boost by 4200-4300 RPM. Thats a 400-500 RPM difference just by changing the intercooler setup and pipes! I wonder if I'll make more power now
thewird
thewird
thewird, the results are very interesting. You didn't mention if the ambient conditions were exactly the same. If not, I'd be curious to find out what the difference would be if the ambient temperature was closer to what it was the last time you tuned it.
#45
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I think it was actually colder. I only drove the 500R one day last year on December 5th. According to the weather network, the min temp was -8*C that day. We'll go with the minimum temps since both times were late at night. Yesterdays minimum temp was -6.4*C. So for the sake comparison we can assume its the same.
However, I believe my intake temps were slightly colder from last time. I was reading -2*C AIT and 69*C water temp and when I did WOT, my water temps would actually drop to 68*C at speed lol. I need to put some cardboard in the in front of the oil coolers or something while its still cold. The car definitely feels better and is more responsive even though its running mostly rich.
For the sake of completeness there were some other changes on the car. I swapped in my Greddy Iridium Pro plugs, tightened the BOV to just before compressor surge, have a bigger K&N filter that is in front of the rad getting cold air (but thats due to vmount design), and moved the AIT sensor to post-intercooler pipe. Also, to note, my IC pipes are now bigger, 3" in, 2.75" out and are shorter/smoother, as well the intercooler is shorter and thicker but that is part of the design and my goal.
I'll post a new pic soon that shows the intake an all. Just need to wash the baby
Also, I now do believe it will make more power. When I was adjusting the tune, I was doing changes across the RPM range equally since the fuel curves should be similar to the last time. But I noticed where it would get rich down low, it would get leaner up top. So I'm very curious to see what it does on the dyno now.
thewird
However, I believe my intake temps were slightly colder from last time. I was reading -2*C AIT and 69*C water temp and when I did WOT, my water temps would actually drop to 68*C at speed lol. I need to put some cardboard in the in front of the oil coolers or something while its still cold. The car definitely feels better and is more responsive even though its running mostly rich.
For the sake of completeness there were some other changes on the car. I swapped in my Greddy Iridium Pro plugs, tightened the BOV to just before compressor surge, have a bigger K&N filter that is in front of the rad getting cold air (but thats due to vmount design), and moved the AIT sensor to post-intercooler pipe. Also, to note, my IC pipes are now bigger, 3" in, 2.75" out and are shorter/smoother, as well the intercooler is shorter and thicker but that is part of the design and my goal.
I'll post a new pic soon that shows the intake an all. Just need to wash the baby
Also, I now do believe it will make more power. When I was adjusting the tune, I was doing changes across the RPM range equally since the fuel curves should be similar to the last time. But I noticed where it would get rich down low, it would get leaner up top. So I'm very curious to see what it does on the dyno now.
thewird
#50
Unfortunately that V mount is mostly useless without ducting to control air flow. It's been 'working' not because of the design but simply because of the sub zero ambient temps, the charged air is obviously not putting any heat stress into the aluminum.
Not syaing it's a bad job, just an unfinished one. Come the warmer temps and you will notice a rise in water and charge air temps over the OEM setup.
Not syaing it's a bad job, just an unfinished one. Come the warmer temps and you will notice a rise in water and charge air temps over the OEM setup.