Hey guys, this my FC. Purchased in December 2011. Has 130k on the clock. 5-Speed N/A. Plans are for a daily driver. Keep the rotary going for as long as I can while building a 2.4 DOHC Wideblock 4g64 on the side. Why? Going 5 years of experience with the mitsubishi 4g6x platform. The wideblock bolts to the b2600 bellhousing used in a narrow range of of pickups, and that bellhousing in turn bolts to the TII trans.

So anyways onto day 1 pics.













Not Really Sure what this is to be honest. My guess is some type of emissions equipment? Probably gonna trash it.


Another Item I am not 100% certain about, but I am sure it needs to be repaired in some way. This is in the short ram intake, just about 2 inches after the Mass Airflow Sensor.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fb...6119175&type=3

 

Realized I messed up the link for the last pic.

So anyways, here is the link.
Another Item I am not 100% certain about, but I am sure it needs to be repaired in some way. This is in the short ram intake, just about 2 inches after the Mass Airflow Sensor.


Immediate future plans :
Radio
8" Full range speakers in the rear.
6.5" Speakers up front somewhere.
Fix leaking water neck gasket.
Oil Change
Spark Plugs
Cleaning
Custom Center Console until I can find and OEM one in the correct color.

Very Soon:
OEM Replacement Clutch.
Trans and Dif Fluid.
Clutch Fluid.
Front Diff Mount.

 

Oh boy that thing is a dirty mess... And that thing is the air pump. See how there is no factory airbox there? Worst mistake ever. Ditch that short ram air intake, and get yourself the factory setup. Trust me, it's better. Next on the list is to get the skid plate that goes underneath the car back on pronto, it's for cooling. Not to mention it aids in aero for fuel efficiency. Also look for a fan shroud, as it will also be necessary in keeping coolant temps low. The LAST thing you want a rotary to do is overheat. Even if you do it once, it could be too late..

EDIT: GET YOUR MAINTENANCE DONE BEFORE WORRYING ABOUT YOUR RADIO!!! Words cannot describe how terrible of a decision it is to worry about music is flowing through your ears before worrying about how well your car is driving. Do a tune up (new OEM NGK plugs/wires, fuel filter, oil change, coolant change, trans oil change would be a good word of advice as well would be a diff fluid change, and the aforementioned problems.)

 

REAmemiya_fan has good advice.

Ps... keep with the rotary. It's what makes the rx7 unique.

 

I dont want to just take your word for it. I would rather learn something.This air pump, as far as I can tell, is part of emissions equipment. The state of Alabama does not require any emissions testing, unless there is another purpose for it and you can explain why it is there, what it does, and how it would be better for the engine's performance, durability, or fuel economy in the long run I would rather just delete it completly.

I will however try and get a fan shroud and skid plate/air duct asap. Are there any online junkyards that specialize in RX7s? I am coming from the DSM world were we have tons of vendors for new oem parts, and 2-3 for used oem parts. Likelihood of finding an intact FC on a yard here is low.

One question though, if I were to install a 14" 2150 CFM Electric slim fan in place of the clutch fan would that provide sufficient cooling? What is the stock fan rated at? The reason I ask is I have a 14" slim fan that does not quite fit the radiator for my dsm.

I am planning on hitting the radio install and tuneup tomorrow. I have several hours set aside for it. And I had planned on doing the clutch, diff fluid, trans fluid, and front differential mount all at the same time next week as soon as the parts get here.

Plenty of people keep the rotary, not many do I4 swaps. I can build and boost a Mitsubishi engine for under 2000$, and I have intimate working knowledge of the 4g6x engines. How much cash would need to put into a rotary for it to handle 400+ whp on a daily driven basis? Will it take 500 whp stock? Does it have a standalone system with full logging capabilities and support for Mass Airflow Systems as well as Speed Density out of the box for less than 600 bucks?

 

The factory airbox/snorkel is certainly better than what the OP has, but lacking those parts it's certainly possible to do better than the "short ram, hey! while I'm at it, let's feed it some quality hot air!" TypeR intake.

I think that calling the plastic undertray a "skidplate" is a bit of a stretch and I've personally never seen any cooling benefits or "aero" advantages (which I assume would translate to better fuel economy) on my NA.
It is useful as a splash diverter but any real ducting for the radiator would have to be far more elaborate than some floppy plastic with 20 year old foam.
I have one on mine but use it ironically.

He definitely DOES need a fan shroud. That setup is useless without it.
If that stock radiator isn't leaking and the fan's thermoclutch is good, adding the shroud finishes the cooling system, which should do fine for a stock engine.

Edit: Please get the correct upper radiator hose, that one is weird.

 

The stock fan is rated somewhat north of 3000 CFM, if you're going electric, you'll be wanting something OEM like Taurus, Lincoln or Volvo- all of which I've tried with good results.
There are a metric shitton of threads regarding efans on here.

I'm compelled to ask why a daily driver needs 400-500 hp and also to note that you'll definitely need to do something about the NA diff when you reach those power levels.

 

There's a whole section in the forums dedicated to buying/selling parts for our cars. Post up a want to buy thread on there amd ask for the parts. And concerning the intake, Mazda built the stock intake to be an OEM cold air intake, and by removing all of it and simply placing a cone filter in place will actually reduce horsepower due to higher intake temps. The best budget intake upgrade is a K&N Oem style replacement filter. A more costly yet more effective upgrade would be their filtercharger kit, and then fabricating your own CAI box and feeding air to it via two 4" tubes from the front bumper.

 

Or moving the filter in front of the rad.

 

Thank you very much for informing instead of telling me. REAmemiya_fan and clokker.

Its not necessary, but I am just going off what the stock 4g63 bottom can handle. I highly doubt I would even boost the engine I have planned. I am searching for a 2.4 wideblock bottom end. Already have a 2.0 dual cam head with a fresh valve job and mild street cams. That being said, this is in the future. I'd like to keep the rotary going as long as is feasible so that I can address other areas in the meantime. I am decent with a welder and had planned on doing something about that ram air intake. I have never understood the fascination of them.

They don't look great, and they don't do jack ****. Putting a cone filter on a stock intake snorkel is often more, or at least as effective of an upgrade. I have a tig welder, and exhaust bends are cheap. Will see what I can figure out after the tune up maintenance is up to date.

 

After the "tune up maintenance" is finished, I'd stop.

If the plan is to swap engines, everything else-including the intake- will change along with the block, so why bother?
You and I are in somewhat similar boats; both waiting for the NA rotary to die before ditching it.
There is really nothing easy you can do to boost the rotary's performance, conversely, they're kinda hard to hurt noticeably as well.

That crappy short ram intake...change it out, go ahead and put the stock airbox in, see if you can tell the difference.
I'd guess not. I ran all summer with the filter bolted to the MAF sitting next to the rad...mileage, apparent power, all the same.

You would be hard pressed to find any threads on this forum detailing a rebuild of a NA engine...it just doesn't make financial sense. Typically, the turbo swap is performed, occasionally something more foreign but no one is interested in a plain vanilla NA.

So don't go spending a lot of energy on stuff that you plan on rendering irrelevant soon. Your NA will not magically "wake up", no matter what you do.

 

Yeah I understand the limitations of small displacement engines. I am not expecting any major power gains. I just want to get started on other things. It needs some tlc beyond your vital tune up

My short list :

Driver's Side headlight motor
Driver's Side window is off track.
Hatchback Tint is starting to crack/peel/bubble
No center console beyond the shifter.
Carpet is dirty as f@#k
Sun roof needs help to open.
Needs a passenger side fender, large dent in rear.
I want to switch to s5 tails.
Projector Retrofit into h4 housings.

I knew a 24 year old car was gonna have quirks and issues. I could have gotten a 2000 mirage for the same money. But it did not interest me in the slightest.

 

I'll sell you the fender $50 plus shipping to you. Headlight motor $15 plus shipping.

 

More worried about the clutch and diff mounts at the moment. I will let you know when I get to that step unless I can find them locally.

 

I've also got an extra OEM style clutch with ~90% life left. I can provide pictures of all if you want them.

 

Already ordered a clutch kit. I'm not trying to cheap out on my daily. I got myself a new XTD entire kit. Always had good experience with their stage 4 for AWD dsms, I picked out a stage 2 (sprung street disc higher rate pressure plate) for this car.

I really wish I could tell if I had a GXL or not. Trim level isn't indicated on the title. Its got 5-lug, Power antenna, Locking Storage bins, Power windows, Metal Moonroof,

Also can someone explain why the FC has these things that look like T-Top straps in the trunk? Its a regular Liftback. And as far as I know there was no T-Top FC.

 

You don't have the GXL, unfortunately. It had the AAS (auto adjusting suspenion, which was a flucke really), and would be denoted by two major things: 1) wires coming out of the strut tower caps, 2) a 'Normal' and 'Sport' selection button on the center counsel. Other obvious indicators would be the GXL lettering on the fenders, and an LSD in the rear. Quick and easy check for an LSD is to jack the rear up, spin one tire, and see if the other spins in the same direction. If it does, you have one. Another way to tell is to check the diff for the obligatory Limited Slip Differential metal tag on the fill plug. It may not be legible anymore however. Mine isn't.

 

Those straps- in theory at least- are cargo straps.
Keeps the dead hookers from rolling around.

 

^^ That is sig worthy.

 

Lol the only thing I hate about my dsms (other than shitty transmissions made out of ricepaper and hope) was the dead hookers rolling around in the trunk.

I have been going over the options list over here

And just getting more confused. I am guessing that some previous really liked junkyards, but didn't so much care for hood scoops. It has the adjustable headrests and height/lumbar adjustment on the drivers side.

Its got every standard feature of the GXL except the AAS, and Im not sure about LSD but will check tomorrow.

 

Meh, don't even worry about the hood scoops. Unless you're running a TII with the TMIC still attached, it's purely an aesthetics thing and will actually cause more drag than useful cooling (on an NA) than a normal NA hood would. Try to find an aluminum hood though, words cannot describe how much nicer they are than the steel one.

 

Yeah no doubt. Not a hood scoop fan anyways.

 

Just a little update, no pics.

For various reasons I did not get around to working on the car yesterday, but today I got the 8's installed in the rear and the radio installed.

While I was doing this I was letting various fluids drain, once I got done I filled the differential, clutch hydraulics, and bled the clutch. Went to fill the oil, well the filter I got was not the right size, neither were the spark plugs. So I had to go back to O'Reillys and get the spark plugs and filter. Well no one in town has the plugs in stock gonna 2-3 days on them. At least I did get a filter and was able to finish the oil change.

Currently waiting on the clutch kit and rear diff mount to get here.

 

I bled my clutch yesterday, but annoyingly ill have to do it again after i get my racing beat stainless steel clutch line on. I'll let you know how it feels after its on before i tell you to get it :P

 

I just ordered a new rubber line. It was like 12$ from rock auto. Mine has a leak at one of the flanges, and I'd just rather replace it since it looks to be 24 years old.

Its not like in the DSM where the clutch slave to master line is like 900 feet long and retardedly designed. Takes a lot of space in the bay, and is anoying as hell because the larger bits are all right in front of the tranny fill plug.

I think I will probably stick with the oem style until I do my T-II trans swap.