Sft3303's contribution (agonizingly slow s5 n/a/t build)
12-12-12 | 11:32 PM
#26
Seems to me you're attacking a non-problem with increasingly complex solutions.
Simply dumping premix oil into the fuel tank not only eliminates all the hardware but also adds a safety factor...if you're getting fuel, you're getting oil.
This makes it a pretty elegant solution and tough to beat, I think.
Simply dumping premix oil into the fuel tank not only eliminates all the hardware but also adds a safety factor...if you're getting fuel, you're getting oil.
This makes it a pretty elegant solution and tough to beat, I think.
12-13-12 | 08:23 AM
#27
Seems to me you're attacking a non-problem with increasingly complex solutions.
Simply dumping premix oil into the fuel tank not only eliminates all the hardware but also adds a safety factor...if you're getting fuel, you're getting oil.
This makes it a pretty elegant solution and tough to beat, I think.
Simply dumping premix oil into the fuel tank not only eliminates all the hardware but also adds a safety factor...if you're getting fuel, you're getting oil.
This makes it a pretty elegant solution and tough to beat, I think.
Some other guy did a mod where he used the sub zero assist reservoir. He ran the discharge of the hose to the fuel tank, so all he had to do was make 1 oz markings on the tank and push a button until the right amount of oil was injected in the tank.
12-13-12 | 09:16 AM
#28
"Keeping it simple " in this case can go two ways:
-Leave it stock. The narrow focus of this forum ("narrow" in the sense that all we see are problems, who posts when everything is working as it should?) would tempt you into believing that the OMP system is unreliable but I'll bet that statistically observed, it's overwhelmingly functional.
If you want to assert that even when functional, the OMP system is not the best way to deliver lubrication, proceed to...
-Remove the OMP and premix.
In one fell swoop both major objections to the stock system are removed; potentially flaky hardware (particularly the plastic delivery hoses) and the inefficient level of coverage (oil is now everywhere in the housing that fuel is).
Why then complicate matters by essentially trying to reverse engineer the stock system, especially given that you'd be guessing about all sorts of critical parameters (flow rate, injector position, injector timing, etc).
It would be sound practice to compare the original and the proposed systems failure points...you haven't eliminated any, just moved them around.
The fertile imagination often forgets that "could" and "should" are not the same thing.
-Leave it stock. The narrow focus of this forum ("narrow" in the sense that all we see are problems, who posts when everything is working as it should?) would tempt you into believing that the OMP system is unreliable but I'll bet that statistically observed, it's overwhelmingly functional.
If you want to assert that even when functional, the OMP system is not the best way to deliver lubrication, proceed to...
-Remove the OMP and premix.
In one fell swoop both major objections to the stock system are removed; potentially flaky hardware (particularly the plastic delivery hoses) and the inefficient level of coverage (oil is now everywhere in the housing that fuel is).
Why then complicate matters by essentially trying to reverse engineer the stock system, especially given that you'd be guessing about all sorts of critical parameters (flow rate, injector position, injector timing, etc).
It would be sound practice to compare the original and the proposed systems failure points...you haven't eliminated any, just moved them around.
The fertile imagination often forgets that "could" and "should" are not the same thing.
12-13-12 | 02:12 PM
#29
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Why then complicate matters by essentially trying to reverse engineer the stock system, especially given that you'd be guessing about all sorts of critical parameters (flow rate, injector position, injector timing, etc).
It would be sound practice to compare the original and the proposed systems failure points...you haven't eliminated any, just moved them around.
The fertile imagination often forgets that "could" and "should" are not the same thing.
It would be sound practice to compare the original and the proposed systems failure points...you haven't eliminated any, just moved them around.
The fertile imagination often forgets that "could" and "should" are not the same thing.
I think we may be on different pages here. I'm not talking about re-using any of the old OMP system. I'm talking about basically another fuel system, but feeding it with pre-mix oil, to be kept en masse in some sort of container, which would need re-filling much less often. Like a tank with a pump, new efi rated hose, a rail, injectors, and adjustable return regulator with return. Basically a secondary fuel system.
So new injectors with a known flow rate (like bosch ev1 style or the like), match them to known timing (timing of fueling injectors), and place them in position where they will distribute oil well (primary runners).
But lets be real, none of this really matters right now, I will be premixing for a good while.
tl;dr, let's not get fired up over a potential pipe dream, because my radio control unit is finished.
Replaces the center console panel, right next to the e-brake. That pocket is the area where the momentary switches sit, and those aluminum buttons come down to trigger those switches.
Last edited by sft3303; 12-13-12 at 02:14 PM.
12-13-12 | 04:53 PM
#30
Injector pulse is not in time with the engine rotation. Even on reciprocating piston engines, multi-port injection does not account for when the intake valve is closed or open. Injector pulse is only time open vs. time closed.
I have an S4 TII OMP with almost brand new clear lines if you don't want to premix, want to run an OMP, but don't want to use the S5 electrical one.
I found that I had to add oil at every fill up anyways, whether it was to the engine oil or to the fuel.
Pretty cool radio thing you have going on there. Will you be labeling these aluminum buttons so you know what they all do?
I have an S4 TII OMP with almost brand new clear lines if you don't want to premix, want to run an OMP, but don't want to use the S5 electrical one.
I found that I had to add oil at every fill up anyways, whether it was to the engine oil or to the fuel.
Pretty cool radio thing you have going on there. Will you be labeling these aluminum buttons so you know what they all do?
12-13-12 | 06:21 PM
#31
A man's gotta do, etc.
To be clear, I'd love to see what you come up with and given the creativity of the radio work, have no doubts about your fab skills.
Have you considered approaching this from the fuel tank end of the system (already recommended by AGreen)?
An automated/remote method of adding oil to the fuel tank seems like a simpler and safer way to do the same thing whilst satisfying your strictures. The required hardware would be less exotic and less subject to guesswork.
IIRC, many people have threatened to do it but I'd don't remember a finished product.
12-13-12 | 06:57 PM
#32
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Have you considered approaching this from the fuel tank end of the system (already recommended by AGreen)?
An automated/remote method of adding oil to the fuel tank seems like a simpler and safer way to do the same thing whilst satisfying your strictures. The required hardware would be less exotic and less subject to guesswork.
IIRC, many people have threatened to do it but I'd don't remember a finished product.
An automated/remote method of adding oil to the fuel tank seems like a simpler and safer way to do the same thing whilst satisfying your strictures. The required hardware would be less exotic and less subject to guesswork.
IIRC, many people have threatened to do it but I'd don't remember a finished product.
So that gives to less frequent pre-mix filling, and yet still pre-mixes. Kind of satisfies both sides of the argument, doesn't it? haha
Last edited by sft3303; 12-13-12 at 06:59 PM.
12-13-12 | 10:08 PM
#33
I recently spent some time with my interior stripped and did a bit of cogitating about such a system.
There's a lot of space available around the taillights/spare tire well and locating a tank there gives a bit of gravitational advantage.
Hmmm...
There's a lot of space available around the taillights/spare tire well and locating a tank there gives a bit of gravitational advantage.
Hmmm...
12-13-12 | 10:18 PM
#34
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
This area is what I was thinking, with a button valve or something under the fuel door. So whenever you pop the filler door, the button stares at you. Push it, and you've pre-mixed. We'll see how feasible that might be... I know where to get the pushbutton valve, but not sure how I'd meter it to give out the same amount each time. Oh well. To get the car running first...
A super simple float switch & light could be put in there as well to keep track of when I need to get more. That'd be sweet. GAH the ideas keep piling up. I can't wait to get home and tear into this!!!
A super simple float switch & light could be put in there as well to keep track of when I need to get more. That'd be sweet. GAH the ideas keep piling up. I can't wait to get home and tear into this!!!
Last edited by sft3303; 12-13-12 at 10:21 PM.
12-14-12 | 03:05 PM
#35
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Radio basically finished today:
And yes, that is the completed "new clock" unit, using the old clock "clear lexan piece thingy". (That's mazda's name for it, not mine)
More photos uploading...
And yes, that is the completed "new clock" unit, using the old clock "clear lexan piece thingy". (That's mazda's name for it, not mine)
More photos uploading...
Last edited by sft3303; 12-14-12 at 03:08 PM.
12-19-12 | 07:54 AM
#37
Building a separate OMP control is possible if you have the know how. I however support premixing. I bought a brand new OMP and lines ~$1,600 when I put my factory reman in 5 years ago. Now I'm going turbo and will take a severe hit when I resell my like new OMP, It'll only sell on E-bay for what I want for it.
I also had a '91 Turbo that the PO put an RTek 1.8 on because the OMP went bad. I had to premix that car every time I filled up. It never bothered me, and the buyer when I sold it didn't care.
To go with the removing and pump idea, why not just grab a rear washer pump from a rear wiper car, time how long it takes to pump 16 oz and put it on a timing relay with a button trigger?
OP I assure you though, you have a standalone already, the stock turbo will not be on that car very long. Spending time on a pre-mix system will probably be looked at as time wasted in a year or two.
The look and questions you get at a gas station when pre-mixing is part of the fun of it anyway. It gives you a chance to tell strangers about how much work you've done to your car.
The build looks great though, it's satisfying to see someone like you going at it and researching yourself without asking all the noob questions. Props to you!
I also had a '91 Turbo that the PO put an RTek 1.8 on because the OMP went bad. I had to premix that car every time I filled up. It never bothered me, and the buyer when I sold it didn't care.
To go with the removing and pump idea, why not just grab a rear washer pump from a rear wiper car, time how long it takes to pump 16 oz and put it on a timing relay with a button trigger?
OP I assure you though, you have a standalone already, the stock turbo will not be on that car very long. Spending time on a pre-mix system will probably be looked at as time wasted in a year or two.
The look and questions you get at a gas station when pre-mixing is part of the fun of it anyway. It gives you a chance to tell strangers about how much work you've done to your car.
The build looks great though, it's satisfying to see someone like you going at it and researching yourself without asking all the noob questions. Props to you!
12-19-12 | 11:16 AM
#38
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
It's whatever was on the car when I got it. Had it boiled out and pressure-tested before it went back in for $40, and it works. So whatever you'd like to call it. Some sort of double-pass aluminum dealy will more than likely be happening in the future.
The oil metering system that I think I now have my mind set on is basically one you're describing (not anything to do with the stock OMP and lines, I'm actually blocking those off), except without the guesswork of finding out how long it would take to get 14 ounces into the tank. (I'd rather have confirmation via LED that I have enough pre-mix, confirmation that I've filled the metering cup with 14 oz., and confimation that it has all drained into the tank. Sounds complicated, but I'll draw up a wiring diagram later that will make it seem rather simple.)
Basically, it'd be the same thing you do outside the car. Take a large tank where you keep premix in bulk, fill some smaller measuring cup, then empty the measuring cup into the tank. This is what anyone who premixes does outside of the car. I just want a system that will do this for me with two presses of the button. It may seem like folly to some, but I'd rather not pre-mix at all if I could. But just pressing two buttons at fill-up doesn't seem so bad.
And in the meantime, I'll be premixing the regular way anyways. So it's kinda a moot point what I plan to do until it's done.
EDIT:
On a side note, I've got the car where I want to swap out the trans, is there anything i should do "while I'm at it" to the new trans before it goes in? Like replace the front main seal? Also, there's hardly any "stiffness" in the shifter, like if i slide over from the center position (between 3 and 4) to the position between 1 and 2, it doesn't just spring back. It doesn't fall in and out of gear, but just between the 1/2 rod and the 3/4 rod. Is there a detent or something somewhere that's been worn out that I can repair? Anything else I should look at?
Building a separate OMP control is possible if you have the know how. I however support premixing. I bought a brand new OMP and lines ~$1,600 when I put my factory reman in 5 years ago. Now I'm going turbo and will take a severe hit when I resell my like new OMP, It'll only sell on E-bay for what I want for it.
I also had a '91 Turbo that the PO put an RTek 1.8 on because the OMP went bad. I had to premix that car every time I filled up. It never bothered me, and the buyer when I sold it didn't care.
To go with the removing and pump idea, why not just grab a rear washer pump from a rear wiper car, time how long it takes to pump 16 oz and put it on a timing relay with a button trigger?
OP I assure you though, you have a standalone already, the stock turbo will not be on that car very long. Spending time on a pre-mix system will probably be looked at as time wasted in a year or two.
The look and questions you get at a gas station when pre-mixing is part of the fun of it anyway. It gives you a chance to tell strangers about how much work you've done to your car.
The build looks great though, it's satisfying to see someone like you going at it and researching yourself without asking all the noob questions. Props to you!
I also had a '91 Turbo that the PO put an RTek 1.8 on because the OMP went bad. I had to premix that car every time I filled up. It never bothered me, and the buyer when I sold it didn't care.
To go with the removing and pump idea, why not just grab a rear washer pump from a rear wiper car, time how long it takes to pump 16 oz and put it on a timing relay with a button trigger?
OP I assure you though, you have a standalone already, the stock turbo will not be on that car very long. Spending time on a pre-mix system will probably be looked at as time wasted in a year or two.
The look and questions you get at a gas station when pre-mixing is part of the fun of it anyway. It gives you a chance to tell strangers about how much work you've done to your car.
The build looks great though, it's satisfying to see someone like you going at it and researching yourself without asking all the noob questions. Props to you!
Basically, it'd be the same thing you do outside the car. Take a large tank where you keep premix in bulk, fill some smaller measuring cup, then empty the measuring cup into the tank. This is what anyone who premixes does outside of the car. I just want a system that will do this for me with two presses of the button. It may seem like folly to some, but I'd rather not pre-mix at all if I could. But just pressing two buttons at fill-up doesn't seem so bad.
And in the meantime, I'll be premixing the regular way anyways. So it's kinda a moot point what I plan to do until it's done.
EDIT:
On a side note, I've got the car where I want to swap out the trans, is there anything i should do "while I'm at it" to the new trans before it goes in? Like replace the front main seal? Also, there's hardly any "stiffness" in the shifter, like if i slide over from the center position (between 3 and 4) to the position between 1 and 2, it doesn't just spring back. It doesn't fall in and out of gear, but just between the 1/2 rod and the 3/4 rod. Is there a detent or something somewhere that's been worn out that I can repair? Anything else I should look at?
Last edited by sft3303; 12-19-12 at 11:21 AM.
12-20-12 | 12:30 PM
#39
It's whatever was on the car when I got it. Had it boiled out and pressure-tested before it went back in for $40, and it works. So whatever you'd like to call it. Some sort of double-pass aluminum dealy will more than likely be happening in the future.
The oil metering system that I think I now have my mind set on is basically one you're describing (not anything to do with the stock OMP and lines, I'm actually blocking those off), except without the guesswork of finding out how long it would take to get 14 ounces into the tank. (I'd rather have confirmation via LED that I have enough pre-mix, confirmation that I've filled the metering cup with 14 oz., and confimation that it has all drained into the tank. Sounds complicated, but I'll draw up a wiring diagram later that will make it seem rather simple.)
Basically, it'd be the same thing you do outside the car. Take a large tank where you keep premix in bulk, fill some smaller measuring cup, then empty the measuring cup into the tank. This is what anyone who premixes does outside of the car. I just want a system that will do this for me with two presses of the button. It may seem like folly to some, but I'd rather not pre-mix at all if I could. But just pressing two buttons at fill-up doesn't seem so bad.
And in the meantime, I'll be premixing the regular way anyways. So it's kinda a moot point what I plan to do until it's done.
EDIT:
On a side note, I've got the car where I want to swap out the trans, is there anything i should do "while I'm at it" to the new trans before it goes in? Like replace the front main seal? Also, there's hardly any "stiffness" in the shifter, like if i slide over from the center position (between 3 and 4) to the position between 1 and 2, it doesn't just spring back. It doesn't fall in and out of gear, but just between the 1/2 rod and the 3/4 rod. Is there a detent or something somewhere that's been worn out that I can repair? Anything else I should look at?
The oil metering system that I think I now have my mind set on is basically one you're describing (not anything to do with the stock OMP and lines, I'm actually blocking those off), except without the guesswork of finding out how long it would take to get 14 ounces into the tank. (I'd rather have confirmation via LED that I have enough pre-mix, confirmation that I've filled the metering cup with 14 oz., and confimation that it has all drained into the tank. Sounds complicated, but I'll draw up a wiring diagram later that will make it seem rather simple.)
Basically, it'd be the same thing you do outside the car. Take a large tank where you keep premix in bulk, fill some smaller measuring cup, then empty the measuring cup into the tank. This is what anyone who premixes does outside of the car. I just want a system that will do this for me with two presses of the button. It may seem like folly to some, but I'd rather not pre-mix at all if I could. But just pressing two buttons at fill-up doesn't seem so bad.
And in the meantime, I'll be premixing the regular way anyways. So it's kinda a moot point what I plan to do until it's done.
EDIT:
On a side note, I've got the car where I want to swap out the trans, is there anything i should do "while I'm at it" to the new trans before it goes in? Like replace the front main seal? Also, there's hardly any "stiffness" in the shifter, like if i slide over from the center position (between 3 and 4) to the position between 1 and 2, it doesn't just spring back. It doesn't fall in and out of gear, but just between the 1/2 rod and the 3/4 rod. Is there a detent or something somewhere that's been worn out that I can repair? Anything else I should look at?
It's a common problem for miata's and N/A RX-7's
12-20-12 | 05:49 PM
#40
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
So the new switch will be going in.
Also on order are:
-New front plate and seal
-New speedo seal and o-ring
-New rear main seal
-New pilot bearing seal (this last one was installed without one. It's new enough I'm not going to bother replacing it, but repacking grease and putting in a seal)
I have new mounts that will also go in, as well as potentially a new driveshaft, should the driveshaft shop deem this one (and more importantly, its u-joints) dead.
12-21-12 | 01:01 PM
#41
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Wiring harness and intake came out (well, sorta the wiring harness) today, and all before noon! Later today are plans for exhaust to come out as well.
Anyone know how to fish the emissions harness out of the hole in the firewall? I don't want to remove the dash, but I guess I can if it comes to it.
Anyone know how to fish the emissions harness out of the hole in the firewall? I don't want to remove the dash, but I guess I can if it comes to it.
12-21-12 | 01:19 PM
#42
Wiring harness and intake came out (well, sorta the wiring harness) today, and all before noon! Later today are plans for exhaust to come out as well.
Anyone know how to fish the emissions harness out of the hole in the firewall? I don't want to remove the dash, but I guess I can if it comes to it.
Anyone know how to fish the emissions harness out of the hole in the firewall? I don't want to remove the dash, but I guess I can if it comes to it.
12-21-12 | 01:26 PM
#43
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Just read this on Aaron Cake's site. I feel like kind of an idiot now, haha, yanking on the harness expecting the little yellow plugs to come out. But thanks! I'll have pics up tonight to show off the damage i've done today... if i'm not dragged into christmas shopping...
12-22-12 | 10:27 PM
#44
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So it's at home, getting torn apart.
Here's basically where I started (about 10 minutes in, i guess):
Here's about 3 hours in, intake off, all wires on the harness unplugged and labeled:
Got the harness out, after some faffing about with the body harness (orange) plug:
OMP system out:
Block off kit in! Felt so good to put something in the car instead of taking it off:
Also installed the new oil pressure sensor for my prosport gauge while the oil was drained:
Took out the header, going to clean/paint/re-wrap all the way. Need to clean up the mating flange surfaces in particular...
So that all happened yesterday. As well as pulling the passenger seat/carpet. No pics of that :/ But no rust or corrosion under there either!!! Everything is looking great as far as the chassis goes.
Here's basically where I started (about 10 minutes in, i guess):
Here's about 3 hours in, intake off, all wires on the harness unplugged and labeled:
Got the harness out, after some faffing about with the body harness (orange) plug:
OMP system out:
Block off kit in! Felt so good to put something in the car instead of taking it off:
Also installed the new oil pressure sensor for my prosport gauge while the oil was drained:
Took out the header, going to clean/paint/re-wrap all the way. Need to clean up the mating flange surfaces in particular...
So that all happened yesterday. As well as pulling the passenger seat/carpet. No pics of that :/ But no rust or corrosion under there either!!! Everything is looking great as far as the chassis goes.
12-22-12 | 10:43 PM
#45
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
As for today's progress, my box of trans related parts came in, so I decided that's where I'd focus my effort today.
Started off here:
The shifter housing looked like it'd seen better days. And some very real slop between the 1/2 and 3/4 rods. And I had my corksport short shifter kit to put in, so it'd be coming out anyways.
Turned out, it had indeed seen better days. the stuff in there had the consistency of crunchy peanut butter. Or sandy mud. Whichever. And it turns out that slop between 1/2 and 3/4 was caused by the broken spring that's wrapped around the shifter rod.
So a bit of cleaning out later...
New oil seal went on:
Input shaft cover replaced with a new unit, including a new throwout fork pivot:
Apparently I need to do this to replace this stupid shifter spring:
That's about all for today. Also installed a new reverse light switch, so that's good. No more getting stuck in reverse. Started cutting away the old insulation on the old wiring harness, plan to get rid of all of the insulation, pull the circuits I'm not needing out, and reinsulate/re-route the new, thinned out harness.
Started off here:
The shifter housing looked like it'd seen better days. And some very real slop between the 1/2 and 3/4 rods. And I had my corksport short shifter kit to put in, so it'd be coming out anyways.
Turned out, it had indeed seen better days. the stuff in there had the consistency of crunchy peanut butter. Or sandy mud. Whichever. And it turns out that slop between 1/2 and 3/4 was caused by the broken spring that's wrapped around the shifter rod.
So a bit of cleaning out later...
New oil seal went on:
Input shaft cover replaced with a new unit, including a new throwout fork pivot:
Apparently I need to do this to replace this stupid shifter spring:
That's about all for today. Also installed a new reverse light switch, so that's good. No more getting stuck in reverse. Started cutting away the old insulation on the old wiring harness, plan to get rid of all of the insulation, pull the circuits I'm not needing out, and reinsulate/re-route the new, thinned out harness.
Last edited by sft3303; 12-22-12 at 10:51 PM.
12-27-12 | 07:21 PM
#46
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
A bit more progress today, got some interesting photos of the old trans.
I drained the fluid in preparation to remove the trans, and this little guy popped out:
A good 1/2 chunk of what used to be a gear tooth. A 3/4 inch chunk was later found in the drain pan. Sucks.
A pic here of the front cover. I think this must've developed a leak and then starved the box of oil. That's really my only theory right now. But a lack of oil is really my best guess right now. This being my first stick car could have also contributed, but i don't think it would've been as detrimental as an oil hemorrhage.
These switches looked like they were doing a whole lot of good... :/ I had known my reverse lights hadn't been working for a while, but i had never gotten around to replacing the switch.
Felt like getting something put back on today, so I zipped over to the place that rebuilt my alternator in town this spring, and they swapped on the new pulley for free in about 30 seconds. Some of the best service you can ask for, should you live in the Tennessee valley, at Action Auto Electric.
Scuffed up the paint (er, rust) on the header, and got a few coats of high-heat paint on there. We'll see how that fares, but it'll be hiding under insulation anyways, so it won't be seeing a lot (though the insulation might hold moisture against it. idk. we'll just see how it does, surely it's better than no paint at all).
I drained the fluid in preparation to remove the trans, and this little guy popped out:
A good 1/2 chunk of what used to be a gear tooth. A 3/4 inch chunk was later found in the drain pan. Sucks.
A pic here of the front cover. I think this must've developed a leak and then starved the box of oil. That's really my only theory right now. But a lack of oil is really my best guess right now. This being my first stick car could have also contributed, but i don't think it would've been as detrimental as an oil hemorrhage.
These switches looked like they were doing a whole lot of good... :/ I had known my reverse lights hadn't been working for a while, but i had never gotten around to replacing the switch.
Felt like getting something put back on today, so I zipped over to the place that rebuilt my alternator in town this spring, and they swapped on the new pulley for free in about 30 seconds. Some of the best service you can ask for, should you live in the Tennessee valley, at Action Auto Electric.
Scuffed up the paint (er, rust) on the header, and got a few coats of high-heat paint on there. We'll see how that fares, but it'll be hiding under insulation anyways, so it won't be seeing a lot (though the insulation might hold moisture against it. idk. we'll just see how it does, surely it's better than no paint at all).
12-27-12 | 09:02 PM
#47
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From: Tuscaloosa, AL
Planning on modding/cleaning up the throttle body tomorrow. Planning on ditching the tertiary plates and the thermowax system (letting megasquirt use the BAC to control warmup). Anyone see holes in this plan/have some pointers? I want to take it apart to clean it and paint it at the very least, and with my plans to use BAC warmup procedures it only seemed natural to ditch the thermowax.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
01-03-13 | 01:44 AM
#48
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In case anyone is still reading this, I got some more stuff done recently.
To start off with, I tried getting the transmission situation all sorted out. I had removed the rear mount off of the S4 trans, and in doing so, snapped a bolt head, leaving the shaft stuck in the "good" transmission's extension housing.
I tried heating the housing around it then grabbing the shaft with a vicegrip, but no dice. Drilled it out and used an extractor bit, still nothing.
Eventually, I settled on the idea that the extension housing on my old s5 trans had nothing wrong with it, and should fit (after all, if miata gearboxes will fit between s4 and s5 bellhousing/extension housings, then s4 and s5 extension housings should be interchangable). Using the s5 extension housing allowed me to utilize its non-broken bolts, and what I should think to be a sturdier mount design.
This is somewhat true, and boy did I get lucky. There was a large weight of some sort (like a mini-flywheel) attached to the output shaft of the s5 trans, and the s4 extension housing would not fit back on it. Lucky for me, the s4 trans did not have one, and the s5 housing didn't mind the absence.
TL;DR, mount bolt on new trans broke, had to swap extension housings with old trans to get a working setup.
In other news, I did some work on the intake. Decided I'd try to make it look pretty while I had her down. Also began to cap off old, unused vacuum tube ports. Cleaned out home depot of their #10 screw protectors to do so
While I was at it, I decided to remove the thermowax and tertiary plates, and tap the hole left for plugs. I'm also using spacers to allow mounting of the bracket where the cruise control cable hooks up to the throttle body. This bracket was originally on the thermowax, so some other means of mounting had to be devised. No pictures of that now, but I'm sure eventually a picture will be posted that will show it...
For the life of me, I can't get that stupid dashpot mount bracket off... These darn screws are so close to being seized, I'm afraid I'll strip out the heads. Oh well. Hopefully I can get the trans installed tomorrow (ugh, going to be a pain in the neck. Literally.) and do some wiriing. I'd love to see my LC-1 come to life...
To start off with, I tried getting the transmission situation all sorted out. I had removed the rear mount off of the S4 trans, and in doing so, snapped a bolt head, leaving the shaft stuck in the "good" transmission's extension housing.
I tried heating the housing around it then grabbing the shaft with a vicegrip, but no dice. Drilled it out and used an extractor bit, still nothing.
Eventually, I settled on the idea that the extension housing on my old s5 trans had nothing wrong with it, and should fit (after all, if miata gearboxes will fit between s4 and s5 bellhousing/extension housings, then s4 and s5 extension housings should be interchangable). Using the s5 extension housing allowed me to utilize its non-broken bolts, and what I should think to be a sturdier mount design.
This is somewhat true, and boy did I get lucky. There was a large weight of some sort (like a mini-flywheel) attached to the output shaft of the s5 trans, and the s4 extension housing would not fit back on it. Lucky for me, the s4 trans did not have one, and the s5 housing didn't mind the absence.
TL;DR, mount bolt on new trans broke, had to swap extension housings with old trans to get a working setup.
In other news, I did some work on the intake. Decided I'd try to make it look pretty while I had her down. Also began to cap off old, unused vacuum tube ports. Cleaned out home depot of their #10 screw protectors to do so
While I was at it, I decided to remove the thermowax and tertiary plates, and tap the hole left for plugs. I'm also using spacers to allow mounting of the bracket where the cruise control cable hooks up to the throttle body. This bracket was originally on the thermowax, so some other means of mounting had to be devised. No pictures of that now, but I'm sure eventually a picture will be posted that will show it...
For the life of me, I can't get that stupid dashpot mount bracket off... These darn screws are so close to being seized, I'm afraid I'll strip out the heads. Oh well. Hopefully I can get the trans installed tomorrow (ugh, going to be a pain in the neck. Literally.) and do some wiriing. I'd love to see my LC-1 come to life...
01-03-13 | 07:02 AM
#49
That header paint won't hold up for long. I imagine you're going to be smelling some nasty things as it burns off under the wrapping.
The BAC should work without the thermowax.
You should leave the dashpot though, it helps.
The BAC should work without the thermowax.
You should leave the dashpot though, it helps.
01-03-13 | 07:16 AM
#50