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Hmmm. I think my haltech is dead. Did some tuning the other day and the car ran decently, started the car today and it runs like garbage. After a local tuner did some tidying of the maps, the car still ran super rich and I'm getting a very weak spark at the leading coil. I haven't changed any of this wiring and it worked on my last motor. As I've swapped in a known working coil and am still not getting sufficient spark, I'm pretty sure the ignition drivers in the ecu are shot.
Great, time to fork over 1k for a new elite 550 ecu.
Sorry to hear about the setback. This is second thread I've read this week where a Haltech crapped the bed, I'm almost worried about what I signed up for with mine.
Well, it sounds like you're simply going to replace it so I guess you should be up and running relatively soon, right?
Sorry to hear about the setback. This is second thread I've read this week where a Haltech crapped the bed, I'm almost worried about what I signed up for with mine.
Well, it sounds like you're simply going to replace it so I guess you should be up and running relatively soon, right?
Just out of curiosity, what TPS are you running?
Sorry, diabolical1! I missed your question regarding the TPS. I was running a counter-clockwise D-Style TPS. However, it turns out this was causing all of my tuning problems as the internal spring was broke. After searching for a replacement and finding them nearly impossible to locate for under $100.00, I discovered a Bosch replacement that retails for ~$20.00 (Part number 0280122001).
While this part is the right orientation and style for my application, I had to make an adapter in order to bolt it to my throttle body.
Now that the TPS is fixed, the ECU is actually behaving and the car has been remote tuned up to 4k RPM. I've put nearly 500 miles on it and I'm absolutely astounded by the power in comparison to my stock port set-up (despite staying under 4K).
I changed the oil at 500 miles and it came out squeaky clean with no metal shavings or other unsightly business. I plan on putting on another 200 to 500 miles and then off to the dyno!
In the meantime, I was questioning my low oil pressure readings and picked up a used mechanical pressure gauge for testing. After plugging it in, I confirmed my cold idle pressure was 75 PSI and warm idle was approximately 70 PSI while increasing to 110psi at 4500 RPM. Safe to say the factory guage is shot as the sending unit only has 3k miles on it.
In other news, I dropped off my bumper, moldings, and sideskirts for paint! Pictures coming soon.
With my dyno tune coming up soon, I haven't been doing much but driving the car.
However, I have been experiencing a really annoying scraping sound emanating from my sunroof/headliner for the last year and finally tore it apart. After taking the headliner off and poking around, I found the 4-6 12mm bolts holding the sunroof mechanism down were loose and creating the horrendous noise I've come to loathe. Note: I've never removed my sunroof nor have the bolts ever been touched in 90k miles. To me, this indicates the mechanism can loosen with time/vibration and if you're hearing a metal on metal noise coming from that area, chances are those bolts are the culprit.
Sorry, diabolical1! I missed your question regarding the TPS. I was running a counter-clockwise D-Style TPS. However, it turns out this was causing all of my tuning problems as the internal spring was broke. After searching for a replacement and finding them nearly impossible to locate for under $100.00, I discovered a Bosch replacement that retails for ~$20.00 (Part number 0280122001).
Thanks, man. I feel your pain about not being able to find them for less than $100. I had originally asked because I was trying to figure out the wiring diagram on mine, but I have since found one that I think will work. I will check to see if Bosch has a clockwise one in the event I ever need to replace mine.
I'm REALLY glad our oil pressure problems turned out to be the gauge and not an actual problem. I look forward to your dyno report. Good luck!
Not much to report on the dyno, sadly. After doing a few preliminary pulls, we took it up to 5500 and immediately ran lean. Added substantially more fuel to the map and kept running lean. After getting out of the car and watching my fuel pressure gauge, I found the car was losing 20 psi of pressure under load!! Once we hit 5500 rpm it lost an addition 4 psi.
So, that sucked. BUT! With barely any tuning and stopping at 5500 RPM, I made 144whp and 128ft/lb of torque (mustang dyno). Seeing as how I didn't even touch my powerband yet, I'm hopeful that I can hit 250whp during the next tuning session.
Figured it out! My in tank filter is completely clogged. (Sorry if the picture is huge, I'm uploading it on my phone).
Turns out I really should of used fuel stabilizer while the car wasn't running for 1.5 years (completely forgot). So my fuel pump is fine, but the walbro is going in seeing as how I already bought it.
While I wait for my installation kit to get here, I picked up a new external filter and replaced it just in case.
Not much to report on the dyno, sadly. After doing a few preliminary pulls, we took it up to 5500 and immediately ran lean. Added substantially more fuel to the map and kept running lean. After getting out of the car and watching my fuel pressure gauge, I found the car was losing 20 psi of pressure under load!! Once we hit 5500 rpm it lost an addition 4 psi.
So, that sucked. BUT! With barely any tuning and stopping at 5500 RPM, I made 144whp and 128ft/lb of torque (mustang dyno). Seeing as how I didn't even touch my powerband yet, I'm hopeful that I can hit 250whp during the next tuning session.
i'm sure that is a huge bummer (dude), but i think you're right, it'll be 220-230rwhp (more like 290-300 at the flywheel) once it has fuel
I'm certainly hoping to hit a bit more than 220whp. I know my exhaust isn't ideal, but the motor was built to make quite a bit of power. I'll do whatever I need to punch above the 250whp mark, including making a new exhaust and boring out my 48mm throttle bodies to 51's.
Regarding the fuel pump, it's a Delphi brand T2 pump. Should be sufficient for a peripheral port, but I already bought the walbro 255 when troubleshooting so it's going on. Call it a safety net, if you will.
Thanks, man. I feel your pain about not being able to find them for less than $100. I had originally asked because I was trying to figure out the wiring diagram on mine, but I have since found one that I think will work. I will check to see if Bosch has a clockwise one in the event I ever need to replace mine.
I'm REALLY glad our oil pressure problems turned out to be the gauge and not an actual problem. I look forward to your dyno report. Good luck!
No problem and same here on the oil pressure!
Regarding the TPS, I'd recommend to look at a mid 90's Kia Sportage if you need a replacement. I was in the junkyard the other day for funsies and I noticed it uses the exact same style of Bosch TPS style that I changed to. The orientation may differ and I'm not sure if it's CW or CCW.
Out with the old, in with the new. Walbro on left, t2 on right.
While I was at it, I got rid of the crappy fuel pump hangar screws (which strip at the slightest provacation) and replaced them with stainless hex bolts.
After changing the fuel strainer, fuel filter, and pump, all my pressure drop woes have been eliminated.
Once again, not much to report. Apparently. 2 ID1000 injectors is not sufficient. While I'm not having any fuel pressure issues, I hit 100% duty cycle on my injectors at 5500 RPM and 160whp (45 PSI base fuel pressure). Based on the numbers, it seems I need around 40% more fuel to hit 10k RPM. It seems crazy that this motor is that thirsty but with only two injectors, I kind of makes sense. Just to be sure, I asked Rob at Pineapple and Claudio (from the boards), and they basically confirmed the same thing. I need at least 1600cc injectors if I only run two.
I really don't have time to throw a staged set up together, so I may may find some 1500cc injectors.
Edit. Bought some brand new ID1700x's. Should have them next week and then back to the dyno again. If this doesn't work, I guess I'll have to go with a staged set up.
I installed the new ID1700X's and got the car running again. The fuel is atomizing so well that condensation is forming on the intake and it's damn near cold.
Now for the goodies! Completed the dyno tune today and achieved 252WHP and 168ft/lb of torque. Needless to say, I'm a happy camper.
We actually broke my throttle cable bracket at 8200rpm, so that's the reason for the early release on the graph. Other than that, the only thing left is to fix the rich spot at 4-6k rpm. We should have that corrected within the next day or so.
Thanks to Claudio for all his help. He's been a great contributor on this forum and for his remote tuning assistance. He worked his magic and the car is finally running to full throttle.
That is great news! Congratulations. I am so glad you finally got everything together and got a somewhat clean-ish run. How many RPM do you think you lost with the broken bracket?
Not much. The screenshot I provided was our last run. We ran it to 9200k previously, but peak power was the same as it tapered off after 8000. Here's a better picture of the full run.
We tried adding a degree of advance but lost power, so we reverted back to the original timing settings to stay consistent. At this point, my exhaust is the biggest restriction that needs to be changed before more power can be made.
that thing is making big power, you should be thrilled. since adding a degree of timing lost power, you might actually try pulling timing*
and for the it doesn't make power under 9000rpm crowd, notice please that its basically equal to a stock engine under 5000..
*we used to endurance race an Integra, and we ran the LS engine, B18D-? (B18A1), and one year we were tuning it, and the t00ner added a degree of timing, and it didn't help, so he just left it. that engine detonated itself to death. the next year with a new engine, we dynoed it with last years tune, and then the stock tune, and the stock tune made more power (!). moral of the story, too much timing is too much timing.
Don't get me wrong, I'm absolutely thrilled and it goes like a bat out of hell! In regards to timing, we ventured both ways. Added a degree and also took out 2 degrees. This motor wanted 20 degrees advance, no more no less.
In other news, my passenger window regulator (motor?) is dead. I highly doubt both of window switches died at the same time, especially since the driver side still works.
In other other news, I leaned out the fuel map in the 4-6k region and got rid of the rich spot.
I also got some goodies in! Paint matched s5 moldings, Shine RE sideskirts, and my Shine front bumper.
I can't install the front bumper yet as I don't have a set of S5 turn signals :/
So I'm not sure what the deal is with my passenger window. I pulled both switches, checked the contacts and found no corrosion or oxidization. On top of that, the passenger side worked for most of today and then stopped again. I know it's not the window lock switch either, as I figured I could've been dumb and hit it on accident.
Not much of an update, but I believe the answer to my passenger window problem is due to my driver side switch going out. The driver's side is working intermittently and as the passenger side operates off the driver side (according to my research), this would explain the issue.
So, I need to buy a new window switch and maybe a new wiper switch. It would be nice to have wipers that work on low speeds.
Other than that, did some fine tuning on the low rpm range and now the car cruises great. I'm still having some issues dialing in the 3-4.5k range under hard acceleration, but other than that it's "basically" tuned.
Next up is a transmission rebuild as second gear in my t2 box is basically garbage. Hopefully, I'll get this taken care of sometime in January at Pineapple Racing. Then all I need is some REAR GEARING for all of the funz.
08-15-18, 12:10 AM
I feel your pain about not being able to find them for less than $100. I had originally asked because I was trying to figure out the wiring diagram on mine, but I have since found one that I think will work. I will check to see if Bosch has a clockwise one in the event I ever need to replace mine. 
