Ice Racer/Rally Rx7 build
09-12-24, 02:14 PM
#401
yup, I'm a bit late to update this but I'm working it shortly 
I'm a bit late to updating this so here is some updates:
Next event up was McReary Gravel rally, we DNF'd last year so it was our turn to overcome that failure and end on a high note. The roads are great and I had a lot fun and the event landed on my birthday so it was hard not to come! Everything seemed prepared for that event, I was working with the hanging throttle issue and added a lot of ducting to make sure ALL of the air goes through the radiator and oil cooler instead of around it, this was going to be ambient temps of low 70s to low 80s so a good test of the updates and changes to the car. I even made some organizing updates and fixes to the trailer.
HOWEVER
all hell broke loose when we got there:
We added a helper throttle return spring and that seemed to work, this also uncovered that the tune was faulty at low TPS% because it was tuned to a sticking throttle that caused some tip in fuel lean spots but was definitely driveable so that permanent fix would have to wait.
the alignment shop didn't hold the tie rod boot as they adjusted the front toe so that caused the boot to bind and tear then jam in the worm gear and from the driving at milan rallyX and sliding I could tell something was up but everything seemed fine (milan was pre alignment) post inspection, so I didn't catch this until too late when I went to fill up for gas and found myself with a worse turning radius than my truck...
There is nothing more terrifying to find out you have no more steering, even at parking lot speeds. botched together some tie rod boots out of spares and zip ties and kept it together for the event but the steering itself needed a lot of power assist, felt a lot of resistance or grindy type feel, which is odd because its an electric column that drives a quickener that drives a steering rack but it was felt all the way up into the wheel ( more on that later ).
so with done what we could it was time for rest and then tackle the entirety of the event in the morning, we thought the worst was over, oh how silly to jump to conclusions so soon...
I'm a bit late to updating this so here is some updates:Next event up was McReary Gravel rally, we DNF'd last year so it was our turn to overcome that failure and end on a high note. The roads are great and I had a lot fun and the event landed on my birthday so it was hard not to come! Everything seemed prepared for that event, I was working with the hanging throttle issue and added a lot of ducting to make sure ALL of the air goes through the radiator and oil cooler instead of around it, this was going to be ambient temps of low 70s to low 80s so a good test of the updates and changes to the car. I even made some organizing updates and fixes to the trailer.
HOWEVER
all hell broke loose when we got there:
- throttle was sticking worse when going to scrutineering
- a relay died for the cooling fan, almost overheated it as well as a melted ground wire
- steering boot was found to be torn and jamming the steering on left hand turns
- general weirdness in the steering, not very comforting
- my normal co-driver couldn't make it so I sub'd in for NONACK's wife last minute co-driver swap leading up to the event
We added a helper throttle return spring and that seemed to work, this also uncovered that the tune was faulty at low TPS% because it was tuned to a sticking throttle that caused some tip in fuel lean spots but was definitely driveable so that permanent fix would have to wait.
the alignment shop didn't hold the tie rod boot as they adjusted the front toe so that caused the boot to bind and tear then jam in the worm gear and from the driving at milan rallyX and sliding I could tell something was up but everything seemed fine (milan was pre alignment) post inspection, so I didn't catch this until too late when I went to fill up for gas and found myself with a worse turning radius than my truck...
There is nothing more terrifying to find out you have no more steering, even at parking lot speeds. botched together some tie rod boots out of spares and zip ties and kept it together for the event but the steering itself needed a lot of power assist, felt a lot of resistance or grindy type feel, which is odd because its an electric column that drives a quickener that drives a steering rack but it was felt all the way up into the wheel ( more on that later ).
so with done what we could it was time for rest and then tackle the entirety of the event in the morning, we thought the worst was over, oh how silly to jump to conclusions so soon...
Last edited by fidelity101; 09-12-24 at 02:41 PM.
09-12-24, 02:37 PM
#402
The event itself is 3 sections, like I mentioned in last years McReary Gravel Rally, its a goldilocks rally.
Section A is too fast
Section B is too rough
Section C is juuuuust right!
after section A and B was a service.
the first stage was fun and was starting to feel comfortable, temps were good - starting to get used to a different co-driver and find a ryhtmn, did 2 stages then we had a bit of a wait so I took the time to work on car as I felt the throttle feel could still be better as it was a bit sticky still once the engine bay temps creeped up. It was at that time someone walked by the car and said, you're leaking fuel. Upon inspection it was the recently updated primary rail to secondary rail fuel lines. I didn't like the routing I had before as it was a chance to touch the B+ post on the alternator which is a bad idea. However the angles and binding of the AN braided hoses weren't friendly to this setup and then immediately scrambled to make it safe, and after an array of tries and fitting swaps Fedina said simply "just put a hose on it"
as silly as that sounds they were just AN braided HOSE fittings so we removed the line and tossed on a std rubber fuel line to connect the two and we carried on with the rally leak free just to pick up some penalties for lateness but we were still in the rally!
we did enjoy the last run of the section and got a more competitive time and got ourselves ready for the rough section:
see for yourself!
made it back to service and promptly inspected the car but no damage and we were out for the rough section which took its toll. It is a technical fun and flowly stage ran twice but with a river crossing:
unfortunately the gopro audio failed or was slightly unplugged but here are the issues:
managed to limp it back to service and promptly replace this:
and here is a closer shot of the crack:
that big bolt can affect toe where it attaches to the knuckle as factory these have DTSS dynamic toe steer... system or something japanesy. IDK but for racing you want this a solid piece so you don't have variable toe while racing.
we managed to get out and do the last section with only additional minor penalties and took the last section with care and fun this is where I was watching my temps as last year they were climbing quickly here in the heat and heavy load/low speed - to my surprise: everything worked! the toe was still a little off so we just took it down a notch and enjoyed ourselves. The other competitors in my class had issues and dropped out one by one that put us on the podium due to attrition!
No more 230F water temps, nothing every really saw over 192f and oils temps never got passed 250F. I FINALLY have fixed my cooling issue over this decade of trial and error.
it was time to get home as this rally was brutal on the team and equipment however the ride home (**** ohio) meant it wasn't over yet. Trailer lost a wheel bearing and nearly caught fire which would have been a disaster, this ordeal itself was a mess and is a story for another day over some adult pops but is separate from the car build all together.
Section A is too fast
Section B is too rough
Section C is juuuuust right!
after section A and B was a service.
the first stage was fun and was starting to feel comfortable, temps were good - starting to get used to a different co-driver and find a ryhtmn, did 2 stages then we had a bit of a wait so I took the time to work on car as I felt the throttle feel could still be better as it was a bit sticky still once the engine bay temps creeped up. It was at that time someone walked by the car and said, you're leaking fuel. Upon inspection it was the recently updated primary rail to secondary rail fuel lines. I didn't like the routing I had before as it was a chance to touch the B+ post on the alternator which is a bad idea. However the angles and binding of the AN braided hoses weren't friendly to this setup and then immediately scrambled to make it safe, and after an array of tries and fitting swaps Fedina said simply "just put a hose on it"
as silly as that sounds they were just AN braided HOSE fittings so we removed the line and tossed on a std rubber fuel line to connect the two and we carried on with the rally leak free just to pick up some penalties for lateness but we were still in the rally!
we did enjoy the last run of the section and got a more competitive time and got ourselves ready for the rough section:
see for yourself!
made it back to service and promptly inspected the car but no damage and we were out for the rough section which took its toll. It is a technical fun and flowly stage ran twice but with a river crossing:
unfortunately the gopro audio failed or was slightly unplugged but here are the issues:
- early on a misjudged note I hit a culvert cracking the rear control arm causing a few degrees of toe in the passenger rear and a briefly scary ride for my co-driver sara who was unhurt luckily
- then we got to the water crossings and the car died, took on water and had to de-flood it causing some delays to a competitor behind me.
- this was a big pain point from 2021 where I had lost minutes at 100AW rally because of water ingestion but luckily there are no rods to bend in a wankel so it basically pumps it all out until its gone then you begin cranking again until it starts!
managed to limp it back to service and promptly replace this:
and here is a closer shot of the crack:
that big bolt can affect toe where it attaches to the knuckle as factory these have DTSS dynamic toe steer... system or something japanesy. IDK but for racing you want this a solid piece so you don't have variable toe while racing.
we managed to get out and do the last section with only additional minor penalties and took the last section with care and fun this is where I was watching my temps as last year they were climbing quickly here in the heat and heavy load/low speed - to my surprise: everything worked! the toe was still a little off so we just took it down a notch and enjoyed ourselves. The other competitors in my class had issues and dropped out one by one that put us on the podium due to attrition!
No more 230F water temps, nothing every really saw over 192f and oils temps never got passed 250F. I FINALLY have fixed my cooling issue over this decade of trial and error.
it was time to get home as this rally was brutal on the team and equipment however the ride home (**** ohio) meant it wasn't over yet. Trailer lost a wheel bearing and nearly caught fire which would have been a disaster, this ordeal itself was a mess and is a story for another day over some adult pops but is separate from the car build all together.
09-12-24, 02:54 PM
#403
here is a pic of the culvert afterwards.
pretty gnarley but this car is a tank and it would prove to be one in the near future (foreshadowing)
but before we get to the next event we got some post race cleanup to do and be prepared which is exactly where I found this out:
these are the caravan tie rod upgrades on the depowered steering rack, It took a good hit and bent pretty good but lasted the remainder of the rally. This was promptly replaced and steering system inspection and overhaul was to be performed before the next event.
did I say water crossing? I meant RIVER crossing - the intake no longer sticking out the hood meant that I was about to find out my anti water intrusion techniques didn't work, it promptly stalled and stalled at every other minor puddle after that.
yes the air filter and post sock were soaked but what also had happened was the orientation of my idle control valve was poor so the filter on that was near the exhaust so it melted and allowed a straight shot of water to get into the engine bay with any tiny ammount of water splash. it stalled 3 more times on that stage, each puddle or stream significantly smaller than the big one here.
but there are some great action shots from this event:
pretty gnarley but this car is a tank and it would prove to be one in the near future (foreshadowing)
but before we get to the next event we got some post race cleanup to do and be prepared which is exactly where I found this out:
these are the caravan tie rod upgrades on the depowered steering rack, It took a good hit and bent pretty good but lasted the remainder of the rally. This was promptly replaced and steering system inspection and overhaul was to be performed before the next event.
did I say water crossing? I meant RIVER crossing - the intake no longer sticking out the hood meant that I was about to find out my anti water intrusion techniques didn't work, it promptly stalled and stalled at every other minor puddle after that.
yes the air filter and post sock were soaked but what also had happened was the orientation of my idle control valve was poor so the filter on that was near the exhaust so it melted and allowed a straight shot of water to get into the engine bay with any tiny ammount of water splash. it stalled 3 more times on that stage, each puddle or stream significantly smaller than the big one here.
but there are some great action shots from this event:
09-16-24, 09:08 AM
#404
Post race prep for the August rally in the UP that was my next planned event so I had to re-do everything that I tried to fix before this last rally for the next one. Since I needed an update to the engine calibration it was time to remove the temporary fuel line fix and put in a more robust AND permanent fix:
it was time to go to a "dead head" rail setup, the fuel tank on these cars is a return type but because I was using an aftermarket regulator the fuel was returning to the tank from the FPR so honestly all the rails needed was a fuel feed source. This way I can eliminate the pesky hose that connected these two rails (top is secondary, bottom is primary fuel rail) and simply replaced the fitting and hose assembly with plugs. Far less opportunities for leaks which is a great feature. minor adjustments were needed for fueling but the bulk of it was because of the throttle hanging.
enter: SendCutSend!
no more hoopty fix for the helper throttle return spring, apparently all of these EFI hardware throttle bodies are like there, there are tons of complaints of poor throttle return force on the ITB assembly. After dealing with ALL of this nonsense next time I do this I am going to go DBW. I have spent too much time/money/effort on cables/linkages and springs for no reason.
the new piece is also for a splashguard that I can use to help keep the water from soaking the filter for future river crossings/puddles but this part will never come to fruition, yet. This bracket with bent flanges gets welded to the airbox and then I can wrap around a piece of aluminum to act as the splash guard that keeps the air coming into the intake from the scoop area alone - or that was the intent.
the other aspect of it was to hold the throttle bracket and have some options for adjustment as the throw isn't quite linear:
this worked out great, got the tune fixed and then was off to work on some cosmetic items:
new wood handle for the e-brake:
and a fresh new spoiler with updated mudflaps, because why not I guess...
found these online via a friend and were some NOS from the mid 50s-70s, as these are the old mazda logos/fonts.
came out pretty snazzy with a fresh coat of blue, now all the blue's on the car are the same blue.
after all that came time to address the steering which meant pull and dissassemble and thuroughly re-clean and re-prep which became its own rabit hole.
it was time to go to a "dead head" rail setup, the fuel tank on these cars is a return type but because I was using an aftermarket regulator the fuel was returning to the tank from the FPR so honestly all the rails needed was a fuel feed source. This way I can eliminate the pesky hose that connected these two rails (top is secondary, bottom is primary fuel rail) and simply replaced the fitting and hose assembly with plugs. Far less opportunities for leaks which is a great feature. minor adjustments were needed for fueling but the bulk of it was because of the throttle hanging.
enter: SendCutSend!
no more hoopty fix for the helper throttle return spring, apparently all of these EFI hardware throttle bodies are like there, there are tons of complaints of poor throttle return force on the ITB assembly. After dealing with ALL of this nonsense next time I do this I am going to go DBW. I have spent too much time/money/effort on cables/linkages and springs for no reason.
the new piece is also for a splashguard that I can use to help keep the water from soaking the filter for future river crossings/puddles but this part will never come to fruition, yet. This bracket with bent flanges gets welded to the airbox and then I can wrap around a piece of aluminum to act as the splash guard that keeps the air coming into the intake from the scoop area alone - or that was the intent.
the other aspect of it was to hold the throttle bracket and have some options for adjustment as the throw isn't quite linear:
this worked out great, got the tune fixed and then was off to work on some cosmetic items:
new wood handle for the e-brake:
and a fresh new spoiler with updated mudflaps, because why not I guess...
found these online via a friend and were some NOS from the mid 50s-70s, as these are the old mazda logos/fonts.
came out pretty snazzy with a fresh coat of blue, now all the blue's on the car are the same blue.
after all that came time to address the steering which meant pull and dissassemble and thuroughly re-clean and re-prep which became its own rabit hole.
09-16-24, 09:30 AM
#405
the steering rack had not been serviced since it was de-powered which was many years and rallies ago, since then plenty of mud and water and debris have entered the system and it was time for an overhaul:
there are two really great resources for the steering rack overhauls that I followed:
after lots of cleaning the parts started to show their wear:
the needle bearing in the pinion of the steering rack had failed and was causing the binding and galling on the steering shaft due to the rollers falling out. There is limited service information on these but after reading through wondorousbread's thread it got me looking at the bearings themselves and quickly decoded the mystery:
they are all serviceable but the needle roller bearing in the middle is a bit difficult to get out but a little bit of heat and some table hits and it came right out, the bottom pinion one is a similar story and the top one you need to press it back on so I left it as is since it was in fine working condition but you can opt for this if you like. Do not try and order the part numbers from mazda thinking you're clever as they dont exist anymore and are not even NLA, they just disappeared. Mazda motorsports didn't have an explanation either however from any bearing supply website and some amazon searches by bearing number you can procure these individually for reasonable money and lead time. I think I spent 25 dollars on bearings in total.
I was unsure about how this would go so I grabbed a spare rack and cleaned it up just in case but everything went smoothly and the rack felt great after setting the pre-load in:
I already did the poly bushings last year so now with this overhauled and the new caravan tie rods the whole steering system was up to snuff, 1.5 way quickener and equinox EPAS unit all working in harmony once more which means - a final alignment. I'm most happy with this arrangement
rear camber is a waste as the offset arm always drives the one more than the other for adjustment because you pivot the subframe to change the camber.
and a quick snapshot of the filter assembly, pre splashguard:
now it was time for some last little details and get ready for the Iron Mule Central UP Rally scheduled in late August:
there are two really great resources for the steering rack overhauls that I followed:
- WondorousBread's FC build here at GRM
- https://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_for...ad.php?t=17118 very detailed pictures step by step
after lots of cleaning the parts started to show their wear:
the needle bearing in the pinion of the steering rack had failed and was causing the binding and galling on the steering shaft due to the rollers falling out. There is limited service information on these but after reading through wondorousbread's thread it got me looking at the bearings themselves and quickly decoded the mystery:
they are all serviceable but the needle roller bearing in the middle is a bit difficult to get out but a little bit of heat and some table hits and it came right out, the bottom pinion one is a similar story and the top one you need to press it back on so I left it as is since it was in fine working condition but you can opt for this if you like. Do not try and order the part numbers from mazda thinking you're clever as they dont exist anymore and are not even NLA, they just disappeared. Mazda motorsports didn't have an explanation either however from any bearing supply website and some amazon searches by bearing number you can procure these individually for reasonable money and lead time. I think I spent 25 dollars on bearings in total.
I was unsure about how this would go so I grabbed a spare rack and cleaned it up just in case but everything went smoothly and the rack felt great after setting the pre-load in:
I already did the poly bushings last year so now with this overhauled and the new caravan tie rods the whole steering system was up to snuff, 1.5 way quickener and equinox EPAS unit all working in harmony once more which means - a final alignment. I'm most happy with this arrangement
rear camber is a waste as the offset arm always drives the one more than the other for adjustment because you pivot the subframe to change the camber.
and a quick snapshot of the filter assembly, pre splashguard:
now it was time for some last little details and get ready for the Iron Mule Central UP Rally scheduled in late August:
09-16-24, 10:13 AM
#406
The event itself was awesome, very fun roads and former WRC roads in the 1970s when they used to do WRC here in North America. it was 2 days of racing about a 100 miles of racing with minimal transit. Very fast stages and temps were in the 80s - this was the perfect test I wanted because I had been trying to get the car to do 20 miles flat out without any issues.
everything was working as it should have been so we started the rally into the night: (pics from Gunnar Bortz)
managed to have some top 5 overall (20 entrants total) so everything seemed to point the right direction
always with a cigarette glow from my exhaust/catalyst. every now and again a fireball would flash in my rear-view mirror too. Took a cautious first approach and decided to have fun for day 2.
with day 2 and confidence back the car was working flawlessly and it meant I really got to see what we were capable of and the times reflected it, we kept increasing speed and pace with each corner and stage until ultimately I would get carried away making up for lost time and lose it all...
stage 3 had some small errors but a very competitive pace, placing 4th overall. We are at a power disadvantage at this location since the roads are much wider/faster than some of the other tighter rallies we have done in the past. It was a good higher pace workout/exersize.
so we picked up the pace and by stage 5 we had 2nd overall out on that stage.:
this one is a riot of a stage, sorry I forgot my filter so I had to mess with the video but this is the best I got otherwise you can't really see outside at all...
SS6 was next then service then a re-run of the stages and ultimately the final stage is SS3 and SS5 together (almost 19 miles) which was going to be a riot however right at the end of SS6 I made a huge mistake by grabbing 4th gear instead of pegging 3rd to cross the finish line, had a the car upset and go wide on the marbles and wasn't able to shed enough speed - it seemed to be fine as I was just going to ditch hook and drive out but as soon as I tapped the gas to do so I ended up on my side and a rush of sand came into my face and at that time I realized I was a passenger...
https://youtu.be/9iL-hsXa8bo
[img][img]
- now that my map sensor line was fixed, I had brakes again
- now that I had added ducting, the cooling system was working as it should
- no more sticking throttle
- steering was smooth and responsive
- no funky alignment woes
- increased RPM meant shifting stayed in powerband
everything was working as it should have been so we started the rally into the night: (pics from Gunnar Bortz)
managed to have some top 5 overall (20 entrants total) so everything seemed to point the right direction
always with a cigarette glow from my exhaust/catalyst. every now and again a fireball would flash in my rear-view mirror too. Took a cautious first approach and decided to have fun for day 2.
with day 2 and confidence back the car was working flawlessly and it meant I really got to see what we were capable of and the times reflected it, we kept increasing speed and pace with each corner and stage until ultimately I would get carried away making up for lost time and lose it all...
stage 3 had some small errors but a very competitive pace, placing 4th overall. We are at a power disadvantage at this location since the roads are much wider/faster than some of the other tighter rallies we have done in the past. It was a good higher pace workout/exersize.
so we picked up the pace and by stage 5 we had 2nd overall out on that stage.:
SS6 was next then service then a re-run of the stages and ultimately the final stage is SS3 and SS5 together (almost 19 miles) which was going to be a riot however right at the end of SS6 I made a huge mistake by grabbing 4th gear instead of pegging 3rd to cross the finish line, had a the car upset and go wide on the marbles and wasn't able to shed enough speed - it seemed to be fine as I was just going to ditch hook and drive out but as soon as I tapped the gas to do so I ended up on my side and a rush of sand came into my face and at that time I realized I was a passenger...
https://youtu.be/9iL-hsXa8bo
Last edited by fidelity101; 09-16-24 at 10:42 AM.
09-16-24, 10:42 AM
#407
I counted 2.5 rolls, we both walked away with no major issues both sore and sad for such a rough way to finish a great start. In rally its not if you roll in competition, its when and after 17 rallies and no major offs, this one was a doosey.
my side doesn't look too bad for having done a 30' 50/50 boardslide before rolling along the A pillars and hitting giant rocks
real glad we ended up on the rocks, not hit them head on - that would have been much worse. The what if game is awful
after the race was over we were able to go and help sweep ourselves which we thought was going to break more things when in fact, we moved a few rocks out of the way and I drove it back to service!
it had a bad strut rod in the back that made the alignment funky but no fluid leaks and overall suspension was unharmed, there was a small chunk out of the rear wheel missing but held air and still holds air fine.
We got checked out by the med team and were deemed fine, I had a rough week the following week of being a tin man without oil and my codrivers x-rays show that he got a small compression fracture on one vertebrae which will heal on its own but will take some time and needs to take it easy for the next 6 months effectively.
The cage and safety equipment did its job, I am not sure I would be here today had I had my old seats and no modified cab area to accomodate for the extra degree of safety. there was a rock hit right above my head:
this is the only bar that is damaged, all other parts of the cage are fine but the bar above my head got crushed and the roof is split open right above this. I saw this bar move closer to me mid accident which was spooky but as the rolled slowed down, instead of speeding up, it seemed we dodged a bullet...
the list of damage is largely chassis and cosmetic and I will address that soon enough, luckily my truck has a winch and I may be able to pull the bulk of it out then try it on the alignment rack and see where it stands.
the co-driver front is a bit wrinkled and smooshed but should pull out okay then I will need to stitch weld the areas of concern and think about how I want to tackle fixing and reinforcing this. I had seam welded the engine bay compartment in a lot of areas so that looked like it took the brunt but some of the welds have cracked and a few sheet metal pieces are a bit mishapen. The cage worked great and basically the body collapsed around it.
Likely I will re-skin the body side outer and roof with a donor car we have at my co-drivers house but for now its take a break and rest. I still have some unpacking and cleaning to do.
I'm down, but not out -
my side doesn't look too bad for having done a 30' 50/50 boardslide before rolling along the A pillars and hitting giant rocks
real glad we ended up on the rocks, not hit them head on - that would have been much worse. The what if game is awful
after the race was over we were able to go and help sweep ourselves which we thought was going to break more things when in fact, we moved a few rocks out of the way and I drove it back to service!
it had a bad strut rod in the back that made the alignment funky but no fluid leaks and overall suspension was unharmed, there was a small chunk out of the rear wheel missing but held air and still holds air fine.
We got checked out by the med team and were deemed fine, I had a rough week the following week of being a tin man without oil and my codrivers x-rays show that he got a small compression fracture on one vertebrae which will heal on its own but will take some time and needs to take it easy for the next 6 months effectively.
The cage and safety equipment did its job, I am not sure I would be here today had I had my old seats and no modified cab area to accomodate for the extra degree of safety. there was a rock hit right above my head:
this is the only bar that is damaged, all other parts of the cage are fine but the bar above my head got crushed and the roof is split open right above this. I saw this bar move closer to me mid accident which was spooky but as the rolled slowed down, instead of speeding up, it seemed we dodged a bullet...
the list of damage is largely chassis and cosmetic and I will address that soon enough, luckily my truck has a winch and I may be able to pull the bulk of it out then try it on the alignment rack and see where it stands.
the co-driver front is a bit wrinkled and smooshed but should pull out okay then I will need to stitch weld the areas of concern and think about how I want to tackle fixing and reinforcing this. I had seam welded the engine bay compartment in a lot of areas so that looked like it took the brunt but some of the welds have cracked and a few sheet metal pieces are a bit mishapen. The cage worked great and basically the body collapsed around it.
Likely I will re-skin the body side outer and roof with a donor car we have at my co-drivers house but for now its take a break and rest. I still have some unpacking and cleaning to do.
I'm down, but not out -
The following users liked this post:
j9fd3s (09-18-24)
09-16-24, 04:30 PM
#408
Senior Member
I am sorry to read about your roll over. The good part is you both are walked away. Best wishes for your co-pilot in their recovery.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jeff76:
fidelity101 (09-17-24),
Jager (09-22-24)
09-30-24, 01:56 PM
#409
yeah everything did its job and were okay, would have been a different situation in my non halo seats or old seating position in general, and a lot worse in a regular passenger car. The tech behind this stuff is great and it needs to be because the speeds are so much higher than they have been in the past.
started fixing it a little already and confirmed it does drive straight, once i replaced the rear tie rod. I haven't even touched the alignment but did get some winch time on it with my ram2500. I think a quick visit to the frame shop would do it nicely and I can get back to business ASAP.
I need to fix the steering shaft at the steering wheel hub as the adapter seemed to bend on the column which a quick cut and re-weld it should be fine. Not sure what the next event will be or what kind of event.
its tempting to just keep it a bit exocar and just take it drifting, all the sideways with far less cost than rally but its a wholenother world in itself too...
right now everything costs too much and I have no spare time so things are gonna update slowly for a bit and take a nice sabbatical.
started fixing it a little already and confirmed it does drive straight, once i replaced the rear tie rod. I haven't even touched the alignment but did get some winch time on it with my ram2500. I think a quick visit to the frame shop would do it nicely and I can get back to business ASAP.
I need to fix the steering shaft at the steering wheel hub as the adapter seemed to bend on the column which a quick cut and re-weld it should be fine. Not sure what the next event will be or what kind of event.
its tempting to just keep it a bit exocar and just take it drifting, all the sideways with far less cost than rally but its a wholenother world in itself too...
right now everything costs too much and I have no spare time so things are gonna update slowly for a bit and take a nice sabbatical.
09-30-24, 06:53 PM
#410
social media ruins the perspective of photos, here are some excellent shots of us really shredding it. It was fun to figure out how to actually drive it fast, really does make me itch to get back out there...
huge shout out to @unboxed_studios for getting these action shots here for your enjoyment.
enjoy!
huge shout out to @unboxed_studios for getting these action shots here for your enjoyment.
enjoy!
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