285/30/18's all around would be my combo whenever I get around to finishing my car.

 

yeah, the 285/30/18 is a pretty sweet size. I have a friend of mine saving 2 of them for me when he comes up for the ProSolo in June I'll be using them in the front with some newer 315s on the back I got with the wheels.

The current 4 315s I have on my Enkeis I got for $20 total from a friend of mine they're pretty dead.

 

At what point will adding wider tires start being detrimental to running faster times? I imagine having 315's up front would make the car very hard to turn because of all the extra rolling friction?

 

never! lol

I have power steering still, and don't plan on getting rid of it. so I don't think it'll be too bad but I wouldn't go more than 315s.... we'll see. I haven't driven the car on 315s yet. autocross guys run 285s and 315s up front fairly regularly.

an 18x10.5 and especially the 17x10s are pretty narrow for 315s so I'm more worried about it being vague up front and hard to place in the corner than hard to turn.

If it's really hard to turn I can always lower the caster to help out.

 

Wait, you mean aftermarket eccentric camber bolts for the front wheels?

Mine are getting loose every single event. So loose that it feels like the bearing has a shitload of play. (which is what I think you felt on last year's inspection).

What we are going to do is to align it, tighten it, and put two small weld points.

They can be broken with a wrench, but they will not come loose on their own.

 

The only reason why he is getting wider tires is because he can't keep with my Rally RX7.

 

No, we're talking about camber adjusters for the rear suspension. They replace the inner dog-bone link.

 

First autocross with the new tires is done and holy crap... they're pretty awesome

I'm pretty sure my old 245s must have been completely heat cycled out and these $20 315s are actually in surprisingly good shape. by my super rough estimates I dropped about ~2 seconds with the new tires.

also, the rear sway bar is coming back off because the car is now impossible to drive lol. I'll probably have to drop the rear spring rate too, but we'll see what removing the sway bar does.



I let a friend of mine drive who was borrowing someone else's car that day that didn't make it through the first heat... and of course he went ahead and beat me by 0.9 seconds. and I didn't even record it to learn all his secrets

I'll post a video in a bit.

 

Video from today:

 

 

Why? Too tail happy?

 

Yeah, the rear is just way too unstable with the non-staggered tires.

 

Disconnecting the rear bar helped a bit, but it's still pretty tail happy, I'll probably lower the rear spring rate before the next event.

Video from event 2 on sunday:


and another nice picture



back home:

 

Held the car together pretty well! Looked like my pro solo 2 years ago:

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Nice

I'm going to throw some softer rear springs on the back (600/425 instead of 600/500) so we'll see how that affects it.

I have a track day planed for 5/18-19, then next event is the DC Pro Solo on 6/8-9 so I have a lot of work to do before then...

Tonight I started installing my Rotary Extreme V-mount, so far it seems pretty nice:




I also picked up a 929 brake master cylinder and brake booster to hopefully improve the cars breaking a bit.

 

Deng, let me know how that vmount install goes! Still in line for mine

 

Awesome! I thought long and hard about doing a v mount but haven't tried it yet. Let us know how your response is with that!

 

IMO, this pic makes your car the most badass RX on the forum.
Capable of performing on the track and then able to haul itself home- with a trailer, no less- is a range of utility not many achieve.
It's a beautiful project, nicely done.

 

Thanks

Worked on the car a bit yesterday.

Attempting to do a few things before I get the v-mount all tied up as they'll be a lot harder when I can't move it out of the way.

in the middle of replacing the main pulley with a racing beat aluminum piece that I've had on the shelf for like 5 years...

also attempting to relocate my p/s pump so I can route IC piping easier per this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-arch...cation-967933/



also found a nice drill bit in one of my brand new NT01s... fun times:


So I patched it with a fancy patch that goes through the puncture too:



I also removed my windshield washer reservoir because my tire was rubbing on it (the pump didn't work anyway). so that was a cool 6 lbs off the front right corner (it was full... because the pump was broken). And it'll make the brake ducts easier to route.

 

If you have access to a good saw and don't care for ac, you can cut off the bottom of the p/s bracket and mount it lower. Makes for easy pipe routing.

 

you allowed to remove washer in SSM? I wouldn't think so..

 

I didn't think I was allowed to either until I looked it up. It might be a recent change:

16.1.I. Front hoods (engine covers), engine covers, trunk lids and hatches
not containing glass, front fenders, rear fenders not part of chassis
structure (unibody), front & rear facias, and side skirts may be
modified or replaced, and may be attached with removable fasteners.
Associated hardware including latches, hinges, window washer
system, and hood liners may be modified, removed, or replaced.

 

I tried to get the main pulley bolt off last night... and it's stuck on there pretty good, I might have been a bit over-zealous with the red locktite last time I took it out to replace the oil thermostat...

I blasted it with mapp gas for a decent few minutes, an idea how long I'll need to sit on it to deactivate the locktite?

 

Just heat it up to 482F and hold it for a few moments and hit it with an impact, should come right off.

I used one of these "heat sticks" http://www.mcmaster.com/#heat-sticks/=mktn60

 

oddly specific thanks.

any idea how long that's going to take?