I have a SPAL 16 inch fan. It couldnt keep the car cool on its own just sitting against the radiator so I created a simple sheet metal shroud. The car cools down real quick now and holds it at 185* at the outlet of the waterpump.

When get on the highway and turn the fan off (I cant get my MS to control a flipping solenoid I think I may have fried a circuit or something is not hooked up - the BAC doenst work either) The temps go up to 189-192* Oil temps go from 160* to 180*.

If you follow Aaron Cake's RX5 build he bought a shroud with two small fans and little rubber flaps that open up. The flaps close at idle and open at highway speeds. This should solve my issue of the slight temp increase at cruising speeds from the lack of flow through the radiator. This may help you as well

 

I haven't autocrossed/track my FC, but from my FMIC experimenting days, I noticed that the oil temp quickly followed the coolant temps. Are the 220 oil temps normal for your car prior to your vmount? I am just trying to figure if lowering your coolant temps would help in reducing your oil temps further.

I remember reading something about a black magic fan somewhere in this thread, is that what you are running? I've been using the older flex a lite black magic fan, which is basically this one, but with the older fan blade, which was rated at 2800cfm:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-160/overview/

Again, no auto cross data, however I never had an issue with this fan, sitting in traffic on a 100F day with the ac on. The shroud will cover 3/4 of an oem FC radiator. Parts are available, so you dont have to replace the whole thing if it was to fail on you (I managed to break the fan blade TWICE, and the motor died on me after over 12 years of DD use)

 

I will surely look forward to seeing this fan shroud fitted, as with our VM it sits insanely close to the water pump pulley.....

 

oil temps seem to hover around 220*F after an autocross run. If I drive around they drop faster than my coolant temps. but there is no fan on the oil cooler so they don't go anywhere if I'm sitting in a parking lot...

My current problem I think it with the fan itself.

I think it is the fan isn't helping enough. When my old Black Magic fan kicks on to cool the radiator it pulls the oil temps down.

This is despite the top of the radiator being a foot back from stock and the oil cooler being all the way in front at the grille opening at the bottom so the inlet air is free to go over the top.

However, I think you will continue to get high peak temperatures as with all that traction from a filled out widebody and modest turbo size your engine is under full load much of your run.

Only time I had oil temps up to 100C was after a second run during a really hot hillclimb where I went to 275 NT01s in the rear. Oil temps were almost 20C over what they had been on previous hillclimbs because I had so much more traction.

It will get hot, but I think you are right to try to get it cooled down quickly.

 

I decided to go a different route.... I should have it mocked up this weekend

 

In terms of a fan shroud or the VM setup?

or both.......

 

Shroud :-p

 

Not a perfect fit, but I think it should be much better:



It's a SPAL 30102052. Dual 11" fans and 2780 cfm + it has rubber flappys on the top and bottom that allow air to go through at speed.

It'll clear the water pump fine, especially after I mount it better.... but I will have to seal up the rubber flaps that open at speed or maybe just limit their travel so they don't fit the water pump pulley:



it's by no means finished, it's just held on by zip ties. it has a weird raised section in the middle that I have to dremel off or something and I need to seal up the sides... I'll post finished pictures when I'm done.

 

Looks like I got my work cut out for me when my VM finally makes its way to me....

 

I've been working with Ben on the issues. By the time you get the kit it should work fine.

 

I have that same fan on my ls1 powered RX7 and it seems great so far.

 

Yeah, that's actually where I got the idea I'm subscribed to your no-rotors build thread thread.

congrats on the first drive btw.

 

Thanks!! I'm subscribed to yours as well.

I'll be hitting you up soon about your suspension details... I'm itching to get custom valved bilsteins on my car next.

 

few days ago I took apart my center gauge pod to fix a bunch of stuff.

- Fixed the oil pressure gauge (the sender had come unplugged, the wire is not quite long enough...)
- Finally actually ran the wires for my EGT probes to the gauge (wasn't hooked up before)
- swapped out the innovate a/f gauge for the new Techedge a/f gauge.

I'll be happy to have gauges actually working again



Also last night I worked on my camber links some... I measured my camber with a digital level... and it was all messed up -1 one one side and -1.8 on the other... most likely due to the MMR links loosening up and me tightening them again changing the camber....

so I took them off and swapped on the GT Factory non-adjustable shortened links.... they do a bit too much... I'm at about -0.5* on one side and closer to 0* on the other.... not good. (I admit, the car wasn't on slip plates and I didn't move it after so maybe this will help....)

I've been measuring each link along with stock links and it appears my MMR adjuster that was at -1.8* is the same length as a stock link... which is weird. I remember having a lot of camber with the stock links.... I think next I'm going to try to install those and see where they put me.

I'm also not sure how accurate my digital level is... but it's probably not that far off.

 

I'm thinking that without slip plates you might be surprised.....if you decide to modify the stock Camber links and want to atleast maybe make some money or share in the "secret" Lemme know I'll send mine you way if needed.

Sounds good on the VM being on point by the time it gets here. Glad to see you putting it through its paces. How's the battery btw? Any problems with it? I know you had talked about replacing it previously?

Guage panel looks great, need a night shot tho.....

 

I put my home made slip plates under the back (2 x 12" tiles with grease in between.) And jumped up and down on the trailer hitch... Still only -0.5 and -0.8.

I'm going to install the stock ones and see what they are to get 2 base baselines then probably have the stock ones shortened. I'll post all the measurements when I do.

 

You might consider the camber link option proposed here.

I've done it and got nearly -1.5deg with some shaving of the link end. Haven't put any miles on them yet though, so I can't really vouch for the solution. You seem willing to experiment and it's a decent cheap solution, so there you go.

 

know how I know your car is too high? ;-)

 

damn

the rear is actually lower than the front I think... I'm not sure I can lower the front much more and use the 18x12s w/ 315s... (I think I'll actually hit the wide fenders before I hit my frame at this point. I need to test the tire travel with the 18x12s)

I'm currently pondering taking the front sway bar off and going crazy on front springs... so I might be able to lower it a bit more after that. just have to see about getting the bilsteins revalved.

 

off-season update:

Dropped my radiator off at the drag racer fabrication shop so they can mount the new fan all nice and fancy (every time I mount a fan to a radiator the fan ends up eating said radiator...)

I've all but decided on taking the front sway bar off. Started this thread about measuring it's stiffness:
https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tec...rates-1049802/

Both Steve Hoelscher and Martin Valent are local to me and crazy fast with no sway bar MR2s... the former a DP national champion and both of them placing 4th and 5th in SSM last year in Martin's car

I've been talking to Fat Cat motorsports. I'm going to have them revalve my bilsteins over the winter and improve them a bit... longer rods in the rears to increase droop travel (and add some tender springs). The fronts might be getting replaced all together, but I'm keeping that a secret for now

I'm probably going to start with 900 lb front springs and go from there...


Also, carbon fiber stuff for the giant wing has been ordered... that should be fun.

still haven't mounted the new battery or rewired it... it's on my to-do list.

 

I cant wait to go *****-out racecar with my car... first I need to find a house / garage. D:

 

Let me know if you want to sell the fronts... and/or rears.. I am a buyer.

I'm going to need new suspension next.

 

Sure thing. I'm planning to pull the suspension after a local meet on the 9th.

 

Excellent. PM me when you are ready, I'm on norotors more than here.

 

I had this made and I was going to ship it to you to see how it worked for you. I do not if you cut off the tabs the hold the fan on. I guess Im too late but it should solve the cooling issue between runs.

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr.../#post11611681

The oil cooler cools down when its in the stock location because it sits in front of the rad in a stock set-up and the fan pulls air through both of them.

An option that you have. I designed the kit to work with AC. You can bolt the ac fan in and use it as an additonal fan to push additional air at the rad or you can use the connection to control an small fan just for the oil cooler.

p.s. I went with the 116 fan because of the cfm vs load it puts on the system. 2200 cfm at like 11amps where as the 118 does pull 2500 cfm but draws 18.5 amps.

Trying to find a balance is a little hard on a shippable vm kit.

Mike, let me know if you can try my cooling fix for the rad. It will work as long as you didnt cut off the tabs that hold the fan on.

Ben