S4 Vert

Ah. After the testing you'll know for sure what the problem is.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Yeah definitely. I had to take the starter out a while ago when I first put the engine in cause of the same problem with the starter not starting the engine up. I took it out and cleaned up the grounds and it worked. Im hoping that will fix it again. Ive seen write ups on how to get more power to the solenoid but I dont really want to bypass anything.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Trying to sell my S13 hatchback to be able to finish this car and get it on the road. Hopefully I can sell it soon and dump much needed money into this. It has been sitting in a garage for months.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Yesterday I pulled the starter. Took it to Autozone and had it tested, it passed. Now I need to figure out why the starter won't turn the flywheel while its in the car. I checked the fuse box in the engine bay and all the fuses are good. The one fuse's copper bridge (I think it was the 60A) was a little blackened but was still together. The battery cable looks good. I had proper voltage the last time I checked at the battery. The only thing I can think of is when my step dad was helping me bolt the engine to the transmission he accidently bolted the negative cable for the starter to the bolt above the long starter bolt where it is actually supposed to go. The car has started before with the cable being attached to the wrong bolt but I still think that has a lot to do with it. I have off work today so I'm going to switch the cable to the long starter bolt. I cleaned all connections on the starter and starter wires. While I was under the car the last time I noticed a green wire laying there and a small black wire with a red stripe in it (I think) laying there not connected to anything so I spliced the 2 together. It looks like they had something to do with the trans. but I'm not sure. Anyone know what those 2 small wires are for? I started following the FAQ in the 2nd gen archive for idle problems so today or tomorrow I will begin stripping my engine down to the bare block to go through everything thoroughly and eliminate all possible vac leaks and faulty electronics. Im excited to get this car on the road! I hopefully am selling my 240sx tomorrow so a good deal of new parts will be dumped into this car. More updates and pics to come soon! FINALLY

clokker

iTrader: (2)

The small B/R wire is the condensor for the oil pressure gauge and should not be connected to anything if the condensor is missing.
It should be taped up so it can't ground as that will fry the gauge.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure I do have a condenser and if so that means I need to attach the right wire to it because theres a different one on it right now. That would explain why my oil pressure gauge doesnt work either.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it would.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the help. Im going to try to get some pictures up of it soon.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Alright so I found out the small black/red wire that I said I spliced into the small green wire is actually a black/yellow wire not black/red. The oil pressure gauge condenser wire is hooked up to the right spot. Come to think of it I was thinking of the gas gauge in my 240sx not working and mistook it for my oil pressure gauge in the Rx-7. I don't know how I managed to do that but I did. I put the starter back in but did not try to start the car yet. My battery for the Rx-7 is in my 240sx and I'm probably going to sell it with the car tomorow morning and just buy a new one. I tried to swap the negative starter cable to the correct spot but man was it a pain in the ***. I couldnt find a 14mm deep well socket to fit from beneath the car and from up top I could not get any of my wrenches to get a good grip on the bolt. I tried to take the oil filter off and it just would not budge. Tomorrow I'll try to start the car if it does not work I'll have to remove some parts to get a better grip on the oil filter. That is definitely in the way of getting a good grip on the bolt I need to remove. I'll update tomorrow before work.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Ok so I sold my 240sx this morning and went and bought a new battery. Put it in and tried to start the car. It started up but with a few problems. One being I have to have my foot on the gas pedal a little for the engine to actually want to start up. When it does start the rpm's shoot up to 3,000 and holds there the entire time the car runs while in neutral. When I put the car into any gear the rpms will drop to about 1,500 to 2,000 rpm's and bounce between that area. If I put the car back in neutral the rpm's shoot back up to 3k. The car backfires but that could be because Im running open headers right now. Anyone have any guesses to why these things happen when I start my car up? I was thinking the TPS being out of adjustment and a vac leak/s.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I'm buying a compression test kit from Autozone tomorrow so I can test the condition of the seals in the engine. For only $26 it seems worth the money. Depending on the results of the test I will go from there. Probably pull the blown engine and sell it and buy a engine with good compression. If the compression is good then I go through the process of elimination following the idle problem FAQ in the 2nd gen. archive.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

the 3000 RPM startup is normal, as well as dropping when you put it into gear. the idle will slowly drop on its own as the engine warms up. the bouncing idle i do not know, probably a vacuum leak. let it get up to temperature and do its thing. it wouldnt be a bad idea to check the TPS while youre at it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I know that the 3,000 rpm thing is normal on start up but the engine will literally hold itself at 3k the entire time the car runs if it stays in neutral even when it warms up. Im going to compression test the engine tomorrow and go from there. The TPS probably is out of adjustment though. I did the throttle body mod a few months back and never adjusted the TPS and since I installed the engine I never did it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I just bought a compression tester kit. The results of test will be up later today!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I just got done with the compression test. I had 90 psi on the 2nd rotor and like 5 to 15 psi on the 1st rotor. So with that being said the engine is blown or basically running on one rotor. The engine is now for sale for a rebuild and I'm now looking for a S5 13B N/A engine with good compression for around $600 to $700. It can be a shortblock too since I have the manifolds and all to swap over.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I already found 2 13b's that I will be going to look at and hopefully buy in the next few days. I am bringing along the compression tester. Both engines are in the car and will be heard and tested and then decided upon.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I took a trip with my girlfriend down to the Philly area to get a engine today from an old forum member. I ended up with a 13b with 90psi on rotor 1 and 100psi on the 2nd rotor. Ran good before it was pulled, didn't overheat. I'm pulling the 13b in my vert tomorrow and hopefully installing the 13b I just got tomorrow too. I'm pretty happy that I have a good engine now. Still alittle pissed that the engine is blown thanks to a lying forum member...

S4 Vert

Congrats on finding a good 13B, now you'll be up and running in no time .

Post some pictures of your project and some video on the first start up.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Im hoping to get it running within a week, if that. Im going to try my best to get pics of everything. Its been a long time since I've done anything to this car Im excited to get it on the road finally.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

As of right now the blown engine is just about ready to be pulled. I need to get the lower oil cooler line off its being a real pain, 1 of the A/C compressor bolts for the hardline, and 1 or 2 transmission bolts and its ready to be pulled out. Won't take me any time at all to reinstall everything and have it fired up. The part that is probably going to take the longest to be honest at this point is to ghetto rig an engine hoist again with a come along and pulley set up from rafters in my garage lol

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Let me know when youre in the philly area again and maybe we can grab a cheesesteak! Mine should be done here soon as well

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I live on an hour and a half from Philly so anytime I want to go down there wouldn't be a problem as long as I don't have to work that day. Thats awesome your 7 is almost done, goodluck with it! I am planning to have the blown engine out and the good engine in tomorrow. I don't have to work so I basically have all day.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Alright! I'll get in touch with you once mine is done!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Awesome, let me know. The engine is now ready to be pulled. Guess all I needed was a break cause the oil cooler line came off no problem and I made a little contraption to get the last bolt out of the bellhousing/engine, the A/C line I knew wasn't going to be hard to get off its just in a weird spot so thats off now too. I just have to make the engine hoist again.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

The blown engine is out. I would have had the good engine in already but the good engine was running a Turbo 2 trans. and mine is N/A so I have to swap flywheels over with the clutch and I dont have the 54mm socket so Im waiting on my friend to let me use it. Hopefully Ill have it done by tomorrow.