1990 Rx-7 Convertible project
08-06-12, 08:46 PM
#126
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Throttle body mod is about 40% completed. Some screws are not coming out without the help on an impact screwdriver. I need to borrow the tool so that means waiting on an unreliable friend so this might take a few days. Hopefully not. I will post pictures when I am done.
08-06-12, 09:19 PM
#128
Maybe this picture will help, Cab.
This is fully extended and I found that from shrinkage to fully extended moves the cam so that the green topped dowel moves from mark to mark. So now I am confident that this is indeed fully extended.
I personally think the FSM instructions on setting this was corrupted in translation. Badly.
When I was playing with these adjustments I tossed the TB in the fast freeze section of the freezer and then used a heat gun (blow dryer will work) to get it to extend. It goes pretty quickly like that.
Good luck!
This is fully extended and I found that from shrinkage to fully extended moves the cam so that the green topped dowel moves from mark to mark. So now I am confident that this is indeed fully extended.
I personally think the FSM instructions on setting this was corrupted in translation. Badly.
When I was playing with these adjustments I tossed the TB in the fast freeze section of the freezer and then used a heat gun (blow dryer will work) to get it to extend. It goes pretty quickly like that.
Good luck!
08-07-12, 09:45 AM
#129
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Hmmm, that does help but from what I read the cam roller should not touch the fast idle cam once the thermowax is fully extended. I was going by the illustration in the Haynes manual. I had set the thermowax in between the markings on the fast idle cam after I poured lukewarm water on it. My whole reason for starting the TB mod was because I thought the fast idle cam was supposed to not toch the cam roller (green post) once the thermowax was fully extended. Maybe I was wrong but the part that sucks is I already am almost half way through with the mod so Im probably going to go through with it the rest of the way. I dont plan on leaving it like that for long though. I am going to buy a TB from a N/A manual FC with the secondaries and thermowax still intact and set everything properly. Im just trying to get this car done! Fall is approaching fast!
08-07-12, 05:12 PM
#131
But in the NA Fuel & Emission control section page F1-36 youll find this illustration
As you can see, this reinforces my interpretation of the range of the cam movement; that the green colored cam roller moves from one mark to the other. Too bad in the Tii FSM they dont include the temperature annotations and they call the "fast idle screw" the "first idle screw."
The idea that the green cam roller falls off the edge of the cam doesnt seem credible. After all, what would cause the cam roller to jump up back onto the cam when the engine cooled down?
08-07-12, 06:18 PM
#133
Once you've started adjusting screws, it's tough to find the stock settings again. It took me a while to get the settings right. Also if the thermowax is bad, it will be even harder. Just browse the classified, people are always tossing throttle-bodies. Hell I might even have an extra thermowax!
08-08-12, 10:17 AM
#134
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That is the same illustration showed in the Haynes manual. The picture after where the cam adjusting screw is shown it shows another picture saying that the cam roller must not touch the fast idle cam once the thermowax is fully extended so I might have understood it wrong. The fast idle cam would come back to rest on the cam roller (green post) by the thermowax closing up once it starts to cool. I didnt think it made much sense for the fast idle cam to come off the cam roller either but I was just trying to go by the book. Kinda pisses me off that the book is wrong because that is supposedly the best to follow. If that is the case with the fast idle cam then my thermowax was working (thank you Haynes manual and FSM for the misleading info) but Im afraid Im too far into the TB mod to go back now. I destroyed the spring behind the fast idle cam taking it off and some of the small pins were lost and destroyed taking them out. I have full intention on buying another throttle body with everything intact. If the thermowax is bad on the new TB then I can use the one I just took off. Today and tomorrow I will be finishing up the TB mod before I head to FL for vacation.
08-16-12, 09:28 AM
#136
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Nice, what series? That sucks but instead of a swap you can rebuild the engine if its just the coolant seals. I have a plan to swap in the Turbo2 drive train eventually but money is super tight so that wont happen for a while.
08-23-12, 03:59 PM
#137
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Throttle body modification has been completed. Im waiting for the last hole of the JB Weld to dry. Tomorrow I will begin to re-install the intake manifolds. Re-routed the coolant flow from the throttle body by connecting the coolant hose from the rear iron to a small copper pipe that then connects to the coolant hose from the BACV. Basically the same flow as when coolant ran through the thermowax.
09-02-12, 02:38 PM
#138
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Everything is back on the engine other then the dynamic chamber/throttle body. The reason for this is because 2 bolts broke on me so I have to order them. I tried looking at my local hardware store and a Tractor Supply store for the bolts but had no luck. Ill be heading to NAPA or CarQuest on Tuesday. Today I am going to be buying some clamps and piping to finish out the exhaust. After those two things are taken care of I will set my idle now that the throttle body modification is done and get the car on the road.
09-02-12, 08:28 PM
#139
Google "fasteners near mytown, PA" and see if you get any hits. Whether city or rural there is probably a nuts and bolts store near by because manufacturers need em and farmers need em. Going to Home Depot just leads to disappointment. And you'll be surprised how much markup HD adds.
09-03-12, 09:50 AM
#142
...plus hardware store nuts and bolts are almost never available flanged which are pretty standard all over the car. A non-flanged bolt with a washer screams "Not original!!!"
Clokker's post reminded me that another source for nuts and bolts is the junkyard. He'd know better how practical that is as I haven't been in a junkyard in 30 years.
Clokker's post reminded me that another source for nuts and bolts is the junkyard. He'd know better how practical that is as I haven't been in a junkyard in 30 years.
09-04-12, 10:15 AM
#143
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Yeah I want to keep everything as original as possible. I'll find out today if the bolts from Auto Zone will work or not. There is only 1 good junk yard around my area and I was just there about a month ago. They rarely have any Rx-7s in and if they do they are stripped bare within a week or two. Im better off just trying to find them locally or ordering them. My exhaust will hopefully be finished this week. Within the next month I should have the car on the road finally if all goes well.
09-16-12, 10:40 AM
#146
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I fixed the lower intake manifold gasket and got the car running again. The idle isnt so high anymore. About 1,200 but bouncy. I need to set the idle and the TPS since I did the TB mod so that will probably solve the bouncing idle. I still am working on finishing the exhaust.
09-17-12, 04:43 PM
#147
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I realized today that the car will start up for a second then turn off then start fine but have a bouncing idle after I shut the car off and try to restart it doesnt want to start up again. It seems as if its flooded. Im going to work on it more later today.
09-18-12, 01:04 PM
#148
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I tried setting the TPS yesterday. From what I have read the green and black wires coming off the TPS are the ones that get back probed with the multimeter but the black wire gets absolutely no reading on the multimeter at all. Since I have an S5 convertible there is a narrow range and a wide range TPS. Am I using the right wires to set the TPS correctly? If not what wires do I use to set the TPS on an S5 vert? The information I got was regarding the Turbo2 TPS.
09-18-12, 03:59 PM
#149
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Found out what I needed to know. I set my TPS to 1 volt, the wide or full range TPS read .6 on the meter and wouldnt adjust no matter how much I turned the screw. Does this mean my TPS is bad? Once I went back to the narrow range it went up to 1.5 from turning the screw so much for the wide range so I had to set it back to 1 volt. The car will start up then die after the rpms go up for the cold start assist. It'll start up again and stay running, rpms go up like normal for the cold start assist then drop to 1k and bounce between 1k and 1.5k-1.6k. That was before I set the TPS. Once the engine gets warm and runs for awhile it will not start again for awhile. Anyone got any advice where I should start looking for a solution?
09-18-12, 05:10 PM
#150
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Went out to start the car up after letting it cool down and it was a no go. I strongly smell fuel while cranking the engine over to try and fire it up. I dont know if its a fuel pressure problem like too much or too little, stuck open injectors, fuel pump is faulty or what. My goal is to get a fuel pressure regulator and see what that reads and do a compression test on the engine. My neighbor is a mechanic so Im going to see if he has either of the two to borrow and maybe he can throw in a helping hand. I know its not good to do this but I pressed the gas pedal slightly while trying to start just to see if it would have an effect and surprisingly it did. It seemed like the car wanted to start while slightly pressing the gas pedal but it still wouldnt start. I just deflooded the car earlier because I thought maybe it was flooded. I also checked the voltage on the battery and its at 12.7 so I know that is okay. If anyone can help by pointing me in the direction of finding the solution to this starting and idling problem it would be greatly appreciated!!!