bryan805

NIce build, plan on picking up a vert FC soon as well!

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

As I recall, they're not really one way check valves. They're... one way delay valves... if you will. It's like this: air can flow freely one way, but it's restricted the other way. They're used on the double throttle system (at least on s4's, I'm not too familiar w/ S5 vacuum systems). So when vacuum is applied to the double throttle vacuum actuator, it shuts the throttle plate immediately. When you stomp the gas and vacuum dies away in the intake instantly, vacuum slooooowly bleeds off the actuator through the restrictor and slowly opens the secondary throttle valve.

But to answer your question, they point in the direction of airflow, so in this situation towards the source of vacuum.

You shouldn't have fooled with the throttle stop screw. The throttle plates are required to be open just a little bit, and now it'll be hard to find that position again.

The Rx7 throttle body has what's called a thermowax, which pushes on a cam when the engine is cold, keeping the throttle plates open a little more for cold starts. There's also an accelerated warmup system. On the driver's side, at the bottom of the radiator, there are 2 wires attached to it. If you unplug those, you lose the 3k rpm startup. The tps adjuster consists of 2 LED's. Anode, cathode. If you hook them up backwards, they don't emit light. Anode is pos, cathode is neg. I find it easier to hook up a voltmeter to it and check for 1v (I think it's a green/yellow wire, but once again, not an S5 expert). One should be ground, one should be 5v, one should read 1.000 volts when fully warmed up. It'll be hard to set with the engine cold.

The 1krpm wall... I'm not too sure about that. Others may be able to chime in, but you may need to post this question in the 2nd gen forums. I'm not THE most familiar with the Rx7 engine controls, I run with a Megasquirt standalone ECU that I built.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the explanation on the one way delay valves. I was honestly about the just completely get rid of it on the double throttle diaphragm but after reading what you said Im glad I didnt. I wasnt sure what they were called or the throttle stop screw. It may be alittle hard to set it back to the correct location but I thought of having to turn it back and I marked where the screw sat before I turned it. Im actually pretty happy you mentioned about vac leaks and such because it convinced me to take off the UIM and VDI and since then Ive been looking at vac diagrams. I found out that I have all 3 of the vac lines going to the thermowax hooked up wrong AND a one way delay valve going to the double throttle vacuum actuator was broken and electrical taped together but the tape wasnt holding up and on top of that it was pointed backwards. So right there is 3-4 things that could have been screwing with the engine. Do you think its a good idea to unplug/disable the AWS? Ive heard a lot of people have done it before I just dont know the benefits vs. the negative effects if any. Im not too familiar with using a voltmeter but another friend of mine suggested I used one to set the TPS too so instead of trying the Mazdatrix adjuster I have I guess Im going to learn how to use a voltmeter. Im thinking that the 1k rpm wall is because of the vacuum leak or leaks and maybe because I had vac hoses installed wrong. Im not sure if that would cause it to act like that but well see how it goes when I start it up again. Right now Im about to go back out and pull the UIM and double check all the vac lines on the rats nest and everywhere else too. I will post back later on and thank you for the help without you helping me Id still be messing with idle adjusments. Also thank you Bryan805! Definitely do it, the verts might not get much love but they are beautiful cars and its still an Rx-7 none the less so I could care less what haters have to say.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I'd disable the AWS only if you have a loud exhaust that bothers the neighbors, or you've removed the catalytic converters, since it's only purpose is to warm them up.

Using a voltmeter is pretty easy. Make sure you have the leads in the correct plugs (it should give you a range of voltage it goes to), and set the meter to DC volts. It should have a picture next to it with a solid line over a dashed line. Touch the black lead to ground (which should be anything bare metal in the engine bay), and the red lead goes to the voltage you're trying to read, so it should be the g/y wire in the tps connector. Backprobe the connector with the red lead. If you disconnect the connector, it will read 0v.

The 1k rpm wall could be related to the tps being out of adjustment, or maybe the secondary throttle plates were staying stuck shut. S5's also have a second tps that is for the electronic OMP, but that's a system I know very little about. All I know is that if it's not operational, it goes into limp mode and gets really hard to drive.

Convertible love

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I do have a really loud exhaust, a Racing Beat Road Race header to collector to single exit OBX catback with no cats so I might disable it. Im going to see if I have a voltmeter and if I do Im sure if I read what you said when it comes time to use it Ill figure it out. I took of the VDI and UIM and made sure that everything was in the completely correct positions and now its going back to starting and dying. I went to deflood the car and it was REALLY flooded. Im going to try deflooding it tomorrow. I think when I unhooked the fuel hoses all the fuel dumped into the engine or something ... not really sure. I had to clean the plugs before I put them back in and it started right away but died. Kind of sucks, feels like this is going backwards with this car its starting to **** me off. I really hope I can get it figured out soon

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Also nice picture of the vert, is that yours? it looks just like mine

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Yes, but mine is an S4. That's a really old picture of it from back in 04 when I first got it. It's my first car, and I'm proud to say that I still have it, and still drive it. All Mazda rotary vehicles will give you a love/hate feeling at some point in time. I don't know what it is about them, but for some reason you just have the desire to keep on going and figure out what the hell is wrong with it. Eventually, you'll figure it out, and then the love part of the love/hate relationship takes over. It's a good feeling

Here's the engine bay, as of about a year ago. Some changes have been made since then. Obviously, there's no turbo in this picture. That's a whole other story, and it's all part of my love/hate relationship with mine. The hate just ended last week, after 6 or 7 months of it. Now I loooooove it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

S4,S5 still the same car I like them both equally. This is my first S5 and is the most engine work I have done to any of the FC's I've owned. The one was a S5 vert parts car, the other was a S4 base model I did a lot of body work to it and then sold it before ever driving it, and the other one was my first FC, an S4 GXL. I loved/hated 3 of the 4 lol. Your engine bay is really clean! I like it, you have a build thread on here I can check out? I want to Turbo2 swap mine eventually or turbo convert it but obviously right now its staying N/A. Im guessing youre turbo blew and you just got a new one?

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

There's no build thread on mine. I don't think I have enough pictures to show all the intricate work I've done. I start working on a project and will see it to the end before realizing I should have snapped a few photos

There is... however, one sort of build thread that you could check out, but you'd better have some popcorn ready for this one.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/what-hell-caused-957963/

Teriyakibbs

This makes me want a vert so bad

sf_rx-7

looking good.. im still debating if i wanna get a vert or not

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

You did a good job on your 7, it really is a clean engine and car in general. Since you Turbo2 swapped it I like it even more. If I had a choice in the matter I would have went with a Turbo2 swap right off the bat since I bought mine as a shell but I had a low mileage 12a w/ trans that a forum member wanted to trade me for a new top and the 13b that is now in my 7 so I did that trade. One day I will Turbo2 swap mine, I already have the shop picked out for the engine too. I started reading through your build. That really sucks about the turbo, I wonder how that bolt even popped off in the first place but its a good thing the intercooler didnt somehow feed that bolt up into the engine. Im going to look through the rest of it later I want to see what you did with the turbo problem. As for my 7, I got it to start up again and it shut off after going to 3k again. I pulled all the plugs and in the rear housing they were black and all of them were coated in fuel. I cleaned the plugs with a wire brush and rag to make them look new again. De-flooded the engine again and it did the same thing. I pulled the plugs again and they were again coated in fuel but none were blackened. I think that since I spun the engine by hand during my first de-flood I didnt get enough of the gunk out of the engine so once I get back from my bike ride Im going to de-flood it again but by cranking this time and see how it goes. When the car does start it smokes a little and I have open headers right now so its super loud but it also pops and backfires. I really dont get what the problem could be. If the TPS is out of adjustment really bad could that cause my car to run like complete **** like it has. Also I found out the one crush washer on the top oil cooler line to oil cooler is making the line leak pretty bad. I lost over half of my oil in the car onto my garage floor so looks like I have to replace the crush washers. At least I think thats what the problem is because I see oil leaking out of it, I really hope there isnt a hole in the oil cooler that I cant see. I didnt feel anything wrong but thats besides the point. Also guys get a vert you will not regret it! Im looking forward to cruising this summer with the top down or even the targa top option has me pumped. This is my first convertible car and I love it! Obviously the engine trouble is pissing me off but otherwise I really do love my car.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Okay so heres another update: De-flooded the engine and the car starts right up without my foot on the pedal. The problem is the same as before, high idle between 1.5k-3k rpms. AGreen, this is where I am going to use the info you provided on how to use a voltmeter because I just found out I do have one. Im going to try and set the TPS. That is one of the last things I can think of since Ive went down the list of possible problems. Once I test it and try to set it the next thing I can think of if that doesnt work is to start replacing parts like TPS & AFM. Ive heard of people messing with the screw on the BACV to adjust their idle, is that a bad thing to do? Also I just re-read a previous post about the 2nd TPS on S5. I did happen to see that, one is a narrow range, the other is full range. Do I have to set both seperately or do they both adjust at the same time? And I could not find the wires for the AWS system on the radiator

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Damn voltmeter was ancient and doesnt work. Car idle is still wack I think its the TPS

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

This I don't know.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

They adjust seperately but supposedly the wide/full range one doesn't need adjusting unless it doesn't read 1 volt. The narrow range one is what really needs to be adjusted properly. Im really thinking it is my TPS though. I had the car running but like I've been saying it idles high. So I got out of the car and pushed in the plunger on the TPS and the idle will drop down to between 750-1000 so relatively where its supposed to be. As soon as I let go the idle goes back up to where ever it wants but so far hasnt gone above 3k but that is obviously WAY to high for an idle. Also the idle is starting to bounce

verrt

That is very high. Is it sticking?

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I adjusted the throttle stop screw but I turned it back to where it was originally so the butterflies shouldnt be stuck shut I checked the throttle cable and thats hooked up right too. I found a new voltmeter in my garage in my friends toolbox so Im going to adjust the TPS later. First I need to put some more oil in, its low because of the leaking oil cooler line crush washer.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

The 2nd voltmeter = fried. Still no TPS adjustment. I was looking at the FSM today and found differences between vacuum lines on the TB from auto to manual so Im going to cap off the vacuum lines that it says are used for auto trans and switch the vac lines to match the manual trans diagram and see what it does. I feel dumb for not doing this in the first place but I did not know the exact differences.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Are you sure the voltmeters are fried, or are the batteries dead/ fuses blown?

AzulNinja

Great build... I just picked up a vert and I'm starting to love it more and more.. I am just insearch of some interior pieces and other misc. parts to feel complete. This is my first RX7 and rotary and excited to start this journey already. I have a question though.

I have an s5 n/a motor and using a s4 ecu. would that cause a problem as for performance? If so I guess I am in search of an s5 ecu.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Im not sure Im going to have to check. I looked at the multimeter and it didnt look like there were replaceable batteries. Thanks AzulNinja you're going to be addicted after a few months, I dont know why, it's just how these cars are. I dont have too many interior pieces I do have an S5 ECU though but its from an automatic. I know it will work in a 5 speed but there are some modifications that would be needed. Using an S4 ECU on an S5 engine will definitely not work. The ECU plugs are completely different from an S4 to S5 and there are many differences between parts on the engine itself such as the way the air pump functions, the oil metering pump on an S5 is electric and the S4 is mechanical, the TPS on S5 cars has a second sensor (narrow & wide) while the S4s only have 1 sensor. It can work but there are too many headaches involved to get it to work properly. Its just easier to get an S5 ECU or go standalone and sell or save the S4 one. I have 2 N326 ECU's but no S4 cars lol. Theyre just spares in case I buy an S4 again someday and it needs an ECU lol.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

On most multimeters, there's a rubber case it sits in that's removable. There's usually a small panel on the back that has a small screw keeping the batteries and fuses in.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I took it apart and replaced the battery and checked the fuse. It will turn on now but I cant see anything on the screen other then a small square that changes position when I turn the dial. Im not sure whats wrong with it. My friend said he has one he will let me borrow. I have yet to cap off the said vacuum nipples due to lack of money to buy vacuum caps and the ones I have are too big. If I had money Id just buy a new multimeter and the caps and do what needs to be done but until then I wont be doing much with the car.

Chitowns86-X1-FLASH

GOod Luck with this build.