cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks DRsnoopy! Its been a long process of getting this N/A engine together and running. Im hoping when it comes time to Turbo2 swap it things go a lot smoother. Nice find though! Goodluck with your project. 92k is pretty low miles too I bet its in good shape. My vert still has the original paint and it has a few small paint chips here and there but nothing big and no dents just a few small dings. Im lucky that the 2 previous owners of my car took such good care of it. I need to get new pictures up, Ive done a few more things to the car but I havent had a chance to get pics.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Update 2/27/12: I got the broken bolts drilled out of the waterpump and waterpump housing. Im getting them re-threaded later this week, hopefully. Im also ordering the last of the parts I need by the end of this week too. It looks like Ill be able to start the car up within 2 weeks if everything goes as planned. I think today Im finally going to take more pictures of what Ive done to the car lately.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Waterpump housing taken off the block.



Broken bolt removed, old gasket sanded. Almost ready to reinstall it.



Repainted the waterpump, looks a lot better then before.



Like I said in an earlier post, I lightly sanded and used headlight lens restorer on the FTP lenses. They were a lot worse then this so I am happy with the way they look now.

Drivers:



Passenger:



And here is what the car currently looks like. Needs a cleaning really bad but I think it looks good.

6777barry

Looking good !!!!!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

@6777barry, thanks alot man!

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

Keep up the good work...shes coming along nicely.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks, I have should have it running in about 2 weeks. I'm ordering the parts this week so shipping is what is really going to take up most of that time. Once the parts get here it will be up and running within 2 hours at the most. I cannot wait to hear it start!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Well its been 2 weeks and the car is still not running. Im ordering the parts I need today so should be here by next weekend and Ill have it running the same day the parts arrive. Ill post pictures and a video.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Parts will be here in a few days, pics and video of the car running will be up soon!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

The parts came and I'm in the process of installing everything and making sure everything is done right. I had a couple of setbacks and Im at a small one now but nothing major so Im planning on starting the car tomorrow. If I do Ill post up a video and more pictures will be taken soon either way!

blame

best of luck bud! someday i'd love a vert as a sweet sunday driver

-sean

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thank you! They are awesome cars so when the opportunity rises get one! As for an update, I got the car fired up for the first time. It revved up to 3 grand like its supposed to and died. For the next couple of days Ill be diagnosing problems to try and get it to stay running. Ill be posting a video soon. One thing I have to say is it smoked like a pig at start up.

turtletires

very nice buddy I'm building my own wish u luck with your I'm gonna go crazy on mine and in gonna have some parts left over so just let me know if u need anything

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man im eventually going to be turbo converting the n/a engine or doing the turbo2 swap but for now im focused on getting the n/a engine running and driving it like that for awhile. i will let you know if i need any parts but for the time being im ok partswise. i just got the last of what i needed to get the engine started up and now its all just diagnosing problem. i got my engine from an automatic and my vert is manual. i just found out that there may be differences in vacuum lines between the automatic and manual intake vacuum lines. i noticed 1 wasnt used on a 5 speed but capped it off already. my car is starting, revving up to 3 grand and just shutting off. ive been trying to get it figured out

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Ok heres a video of my engine trying to start. Feel free to try and help me as to what you think may be the problem keeping it from staying running. Also let me know if the video doesnt work for you.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

With every no-start, you should start with the basic 3. Is it getting spark? Is it getting fuel? Is it making compression?

Most likely though, it's an air or vacuum leak. If it started then revved up to 3k then shut off, it's definitely a vacuum leak. You really need to go through it with a fine-toothed comb and a vacuum diagram (for a 5sp, obviously). Any leak in the intake hose between the AFM and the throttle body will prevent it from starting as well, since it's all un-metered air.

I didn't see if you removed your CAS, but if it's stabbed wrong, then follow the procedure for installing the CAS properly. First make sure you have fuel, spark, and compression, before moving onward with anything else.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I know the fuel injectors are getting fuel because I pulled off the hose going to the secondary fuel rail but Im not sure of the fuel pressure or if the injectors are spraying at the right psi and I dont know how to check if they are. I believe it has compression from trying to turn it by hand it progressively became harder to turn before I tried to start it for the first time. I cant say what psi each chamber has though since I dont have a compression tester. I did the poor mans compression test and each puff of air was strong. Where do I check for spark? I assume coils and ignitors? I did not remove the CAS. A friend has told me that since the engine is from an automatic there may be some vacuum nipples I need to cap off because the manual vacuum system is different.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I got the engine to start and stay running but it will rev to 3k then come down to about 1.8k-2k and wont go any lower then that. I tried messing with the throttle cable alittle but not too much happened. I unplugged the AFM and the engine still started up but when the AFM is plugged in the flapper moves. Does this mean my AFM is faulty? I did not turn the idle adjustment screw yet for fear of leaning it out or running it too rich. Anyone have any advice to point me in the right direction?

cfamilyfix

iTrader: (15)

Still sounds like a vac leak...with the enging running try spraying a bit of brake parts cleaner around some of the vac sources.. It the idle fluctuates after spraying an area it is prob leaking from that spot. Hope this helps. Good luck with it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Will soapy water work the same as brake parts cleaner? I was thinking that since I have to have my foot on the gas pedal for the engine to start up that maybe I have low fuel pressure? Im going to try messing with some soapy water on some vac lines. I was thinking of unplugging the TPS and trying to start it like that next. Ill update with whatever I find and thank you.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

The brake/carb cleaner acts as a fuel, but this really won't work too well in this situation. Soapy water won't work. When checking for vacuum leaks, you need something that will get sucked in to burn off inside the engine. This is why carb/brake spray works so well. It's for small vacuum leaks that are hard to find, so that way when you hit it with the spray, the idle changes and you know you found the source. With a vacuum leak as big as yours, the spray trick won't work (really can't change the sound of the idle, can you? lol)

First, let's make sure we're not chasing our asses here. Make sure the throttle isn't getting bound in the open position first. Verify the throttle goes fully shut.

If that's inconclusive, you need to take off the upper intake manifold, replace the gasket, and be very meticulous when you reconnect ALL the vacuum lines and make sure that all vacuum ports on the intake are accounted for... i.e. there's a vacuum line for it, or it's capped off.

Side note... did you ever get the long intake manifold bolt for it? And why did you need one in the first place? Was the UIM off before? Did you replace the gasket?

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Ill check the throttle tomorrow when I go out to work on it. It may be that. I followed the FSM and Haynes manual when reconnecting all of the vacuum hoses and wiring harness. I swapped this engine in from my automatic s5 vert parts car and put it in my s5 manual vert. I swapped the wiring harness over so I replaced all the intake gaskets and plugs and wires. I got the long intake bolt and if there is such a massive vacuum leak I dont see how I cant find it. Ive searched all over my engine where I can see even with a flashlight and I cant see any vacuum lines broken or disconnected anywhere unless they are underneath the upper intake manifold and happened to get disconnected while I hooked up other plugs and hoses or if there are major differences in vacuum routing between an automatic intake and manual one.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Years ago, I did a tuneup on a chrysler minivan, and I found it easier to remove the intake manifold on them than to finagle my way from behind to get to the rear spark plugs. Long story short, when I started it up, it did the same thing. I KNEW that I had replaced the intake gasket properly, but I had to pull it off just to make sure. Sure enough, I missed a small spot of old gasket material on the plenum, so when I tossed on the new gasket, it made a huge air leak. If there's any old gasket material on the UIM, it will cause a vacuum leak.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Before I reinstalled the intake manifolds on the engine I used a beltsander to get all traces of old gasket material off of the surfaces and I used high temp sealant on them just to be sure there would be no leaks. The only area I can think that would cause a vac leak is the area where the long intake bolt is since I did not have it installed when I bolted the UIM to the LIM. I actually recently put that long bolt in. I have been reading A LOT and have decided to clean the BACV, check to make sure the throttle plates are closing fully like you mentioned, try to lubing up the shafts and springs that turn the butterflies, and attempt to set my TPS with my Mazdatrix adjuster. If all else fails I will pull off the UIM and retrace my steps.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Ok so I cleaned my BACV, lubed the throttle plate and throttle springs and everything,messed with the throttle cable, I adjusted the one very small screw that holds the throttle plates closed when the engine is off because they were not fully closing but now they are, tried adjusting the idle adjustment screw, plugged in my TPS adjuster and somehow it doesnt work but I tested for power at the plug and with the TPS adjuster plugged in and there is power getting to it so I dont know why it doesnt light up but I did not adjust the TPS. The car will start up without my foot on the pedal now but when it goes to rev up it will stop at 1k almost like it hit a invisible wall at 1k and when I give it gas it will idle high between 1.5k and 3k. I sprayed around with plain water (I read that Aaroncake has used water to find vac leaks before) and couldnt find any. So with that being said tonight I am going to take off the TB, and UIM and try and retrace my steps with reinstalling the vacuum lines. One thing Im unsure of is how the 1 way check valves get installed? Is the arrow on them supposed to be pointing with direction of air flow?