cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks will do Im putting a new clutch in this week getting this bitch on the road

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I am in the process of changing the clutch, the trans will not come out. I have an inch gap all the way around but its not coming farther. I found out that if you unbolt the pressure plate it will release the trans. I got 4 of the bolts out of the pressure plate for 2 more and I can finally make some progress on this thing.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I finally was able to get the transmission out. The engine and transmission were being pinched together but I managed to find a solution to the problem and when I did the transmission fell right out. I pick up my exhaust from the shop tomorrow so now that is welded instead of clamped together. I have a friend who is going to inspect my car hopefully this week or early next week so finally after tons of procrastinating and other bullshit the car is just about done.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Got everything back together, bled the clutch, took it for a drive and of course two blocks from my house the car stalled. I had to pull it home with some rope but I know what to do to fix it so it's all good. I'm going to put some work in on the car tomorrow and have it running good again. Next up is inspection and hopefully that will take place this coming week.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Got the car running again. My stepdad dropped a socket into the bellhousing when changing my clutch and never took it out so when the engine was running the flywheel was kicking it around and it jammed my starter and flywheel together. Got the bolt out and had to pry the flywheel to break the engine loose again. Overall it runs good. I made a list of **** I have to fix and so far I have to get a new copper washer for the oil cooler, find out why my drivers side window wont go down any farther then an inch, custom wire a new driver side turn signal light, get a new power window switch for the drivers side, and lastly get a patch kit through Just A Sign Imaging. I get the car inspected this coming week. Im so happy things finally fell into place with the car.

Buy My Stuff

iTrader: (1)

Hope to see this car road ready, soon! From the most recent pictures looks like its come quite a way.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Buy My Stuff, the car is getting inspected this week between Wednesday and Friday. Yesterday I did a couple of things I mentioned I had to do. I ordered the patch kit for the top, wired in a new turn signal, and found out that the threads on my oil cooler drain bolt had a large crack going into the oil cooler so I swapped oil coolers with an extra I had laying around and thank god, no more leaking oil! Time to put the plastic under tray back on and work on getting my windows to go up and down.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Radiator started to leak while under throttle because of a small hairline crack. I used this new Q-Bond stuff on the crack and it sealed it up.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Fixed my high beam problem today thanks to an old thread on here. Was fairly simple. I get the car inspected tomorrow morning. I had to patch my radiator in the same place again but with JB Weld this time. Im ordering a radiator from Rotary Resurrection tonight to solve the problem once and for all. Plus I just don't feel safe taking the 7 on a long ride with a patched up radiator. Still no patch kit in the mail, hopefully they send it soon.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Let's see it's been about a month since I've updated. I got my patch kit and it looks alright but doesn't work all that great. It's basically black vinyl tape. I ordered an all metal stock radiator from Rotary Resurrection and turns out the thing was cracked too but I managed to permanently fix it with JB Weld so I'm just going to go for a Godspeed or Koyo. My clutch line is shot, it leaks at the bottom of the hose where it bolts to the slave. I lose fluid over a period of a few days so I haven't been driving lately. Im going to CARQUEST for a new line tomorrow. I am having a really hard time getting the car into 1st and reverse while the car is running. While its off it will go into gear fine. I came upon some loose transmission/engine bolts and tightened them up. I also started pulling apart the blown 13b N/A that I had pulled from the vert a few months ago. I'm going 6 port turbo. If anyone needs parts off an S5 N/A engine let me know!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I ordered a stainless steel clutch line and the car still is hard getting into first or reverse but nowhere near as bad as before. I think that the fork may have bent slightly from kind of forcing it into gear but who knows worst comes to worst I pull the transmission and put another one in. Not that big of a deal at this point. Just found a local shop that drag races rotary engines, Orlando Brothers in Saylorsburg,Pa. About 20 minutes from my house, pretty stoked.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Will you be attending rotorfest? Maybe I'll see you there. P.S. I have a stock radiator I can bring you. Never gave me any problems. Fins are in great shape. Less than 100k miles on it...$20? the end tanks arent brown so they arent super fatigued. It will need to be flushed out.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I might attend, I don't even know where its being held at to be honest. I don't like driving the 7 for long trips but I guess it couldn't hurt to test it out. About the radiator, I appreciate the offer but I really am looking to get an aluminum radiator. Im tired of dealing with the junk stock radiators so a nice Koyo or Godspeed should fix that. I put the A/C compressor in my car but obviously it doesn't blow cold air and summer is almost over so Im about to take it back out lol.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Car is running good overall. My passenger side power window switch has now stopped working and to coincide with that I accidently broke the passenger window switch from the driver side switch and my driver side window motor is not even in the car anymore so I have been driving around in a hotbox on days I cant put the top down. I have realized that the exhaust has somehow shifted to the left making it look slightly out of line with the cut out in the bumper for the muffler to pass through. Not sure exactly how it happened but I have a pretty good idea. Today Im heading to Autozone to find and/or make a custom exhaust support to try and put the exhaust back to the correct position. Also the exhaust is literally millimeters from my rear subframe so sometimes it rattles and I cannot stand it. Few things Im doing before winter is brakes, a new top, and hopefully an aluminum radiator and a full Racing Beat exhaust. Already have the header I just have to remove the OBX crapback.

S4 Vert

I am experiencing the exact same problem with my passenger window and have been driving around in a hot box too . Good thing I have a convertible, or it would be worse.

You are almost there as, seems like you just have small things to fix.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Exactly how I feel, if I did not have a convertible I'd be dying! I did manage to find a way to put my passenger window down the same day I wrote the last update. My switch is broken off but if I stick my fingernail into the area the switch broke off I can get the window down. Then the switch on the passenger side won't go down but it puts the window up. A little bit ghetto but it works! Yesterday I picked up a Mazdatrix short shifter, leather convertible top cover in dark grey, the driver side blinker light housing I needed, and a hood latch cable because mine got all twisted up so I removed it and have since been popping the hood by laying on the ground and shoving my arm up under the undertray to get to the latch. PAIN IN THE A$$! Thank you to Vert88T2 for the parts! I replaced every part of the clutch system and yet I still am having trouble shifting into 1st and Reverse, I was told that the pressure plate my be too weak and that is causing my problem so I may have to pull the transmission. If I have to do that I might just put in a T2 transmission and rear end to get my car prepped for the 6 port turbo Im working towards.

S4 Vert

Ha ha! It may be a little "ghetto" but if it works...coo .

Cools list of parts you just purchased, I plan on buying some suspension and brake parts, ie lower ball joints, tie rod ends, front and rear brake rotors, master suspension bushing kit.

I hope the syncros are not going out on your transmission, could be low transmission fluid MAAAYBE . I plan on upgrading to a full TII drive train myself, I am missing out on the full potential of my 13B T swap. The gearing on my NA drive train is a little to short, in 5th gear I am way too short it feels like I need a 6th gear.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man. After I get the clutch/transmission issue figured out I plan to upgrade the suspension and brakes too. I definitely need brake pads a.s.a.p. and I really want a nice set of coilovers that won't break the bank. It would be a good idea for you to upgrade to a full T2 drivetrain. I've heard of people destroying the N/A rear with a T2 engine on hard launches. One thing you know you are going to want to do once in awhile, at least in my opinion. Plus like you said the gearing ratios are different from N/A to T2.

As for the clutch/transmission issue. I've been told its pressure plate and/or throw out bearing. Every single part of my clutch system has been replaced with brand new parts, even onto my 2nd clutch kit right out of the box (First was an Ebay clutch, slipped. Second and one installed now is a CARQUEST clutch.) I need to figure out what it is so I can drive comfortably. Best thing for me to do is pull the transmission out and see what's wrong I guess. Definitely is not low on transmission fluid though. Just checked it when I installed the short shifter. Its getting dirty but its not low.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Did some small stuff to the car. The cat back was hitting my rear subframe and making it rattle at high rpms. I fixed it by adding some exhaust mounts to stiffen it up. I also adjusted the TPS via multimeter because I was having some weird idle and driving problem and that fixed it right up.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I changed the rear pads over the weekend and as I went to leave my driveway to take the car on a drive the hard brake line from the master cylinder to the rear driver side brake started leaking due to rust. Now Im replacing all the hard lines and front brake pads just came today so they're going on too asap.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

You do realize that the oil you saw when you put in the shifter is not the transmission oil, right?
There is no way to "check" trans fluid, you just add oil till it dribbles out the fill port.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Nope didn't cross my mind at all. I'll change it this weekend when I'm doing the hardlines.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Seems like one thing after another. I hope you get to enjoy the car sometime soon.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

You're right, it has been one thing after another. After I do the hard lines and front brake pads I need to move onto getting a new transmission because my synchronizing gears are shot. The car is very hard to get into first gear unless I'm a slight roll and damn near impossible to get into reverse while the car is running. I have to shut the car off and put it in reverse and start the car back up. Such a pain! I have had some fun in the car already but nothing great. I've been too sketched out to push the car too hard without replacing stuff first.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but the FC hydraulics are all a pain to bleed. If it's hard to go into gear, it's probably still got some air trapped in the system. You can try reverse bleeding it, that helps some times. And reverse is a non-synchronized gear. And if the pressure plate were too weak, it would go into gear really easily, but slip really bad. So don't waste time pulling the transmission. Do a youtube search for reverse bleeding. One method I've used that works well includes filling a new oil can with brake fluid, then pumping it through the open bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Also, check the pedal freeplay (and of course the transmission fluid level).