jal301

iTrader: (4)

I may have an extra pulley and hardware for an S4. I'm too lazy to do the research to know if this would work for you. Find out and let me know if it would and I will see if I can find it and send your way. Let me know...

Good to see things are working out for you and that you didn't sell your car!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure that S4 and S5 P/S units are the same. I have the pulley but not the right hardware but since no one is going to sell me just a bunch of random bolts I figured it'd be easier to buy the pulley and hardware altogether. Thanks for the compliment on the car. I was tired of seeing it sit in my garage month after month collecting dust. One day I just decided I needed to get it done and I basically succeeded just fixing up the small stuff now. By the way guys, don't buy off of SMG944. He is the guy who sold me the blown engine. He is from RI, I drove all the way there for an engine and top for my vert and got screwed over thanks to his lies.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I might be buying a 1985 FB. I have to go check it out. I seen it 2 or 3 years ago sitting in someones driveway. I stopped and the guy told me it was not for sale, apparently he gave up on it and is selling it. It's like 3 miles from my house so I'm really going to try to work this out. The guy lost the key for it but said it ran last summer. I wish I had a way to compression test the engine. It is all original in dark grey but has one red door. The owner told me if it doesn't go soon it will get scrapped. This FB is in way too nice of shape to go to waste.

S4 Vert

^^ Good looking out and great job on following up on the FB. I hope you buy it and save it from the wrecker, keep us posted.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I'm supposed to go look at the FB on Thursday but I was told I can come look at it without the owner being there anytime I want before then. I transfered the title on my FC yesterday and oddly enough the guy transferring my title at the notary has an all original 1979 SA that he bought brand new and hasn't ran in 10 years or more. He said it needed a throwout bearing at the time and never fixed it. I was talking to him on how to get it up and running again so **** maybe he'll offer the car to me. I've wanted a first gen. for a long time. I got my exhaust pipe adapter from EMUSA Racing and everything on my car is legit (Insurance, registration, plates, all that good stuff). Basically if I get the adapter hooked up today I can drive it! I haven't been this happy in awhile.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Congrats! it's a wonderful feeling when the car has been off the road for an extended period of time.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Thanks driftxsequence! I bought the car as a shell and after the mass amount of work I did to this car it feels great to be this close to being done ... for now lol. I finished up the exhaust today and its alot quiter so I bet my neighbors are happy. It felt awesome to drive the car around the block today but at the same time alittle disappointing. There is a problem with my clutch. The car feels as if its lacking power once I let off the clutch. It just doesn't get up to speed anywhere near as fast as it should. My stepdad and I beld the clutch a bunch and pumped the hell out of the clutch pedal and it will get alittle tighter each time. We think its either a big air pocket stuck in the hydraulic fluid or my clutch master or clutch slave went but there are no leaks anywhere that I have seen and I checked after every ride around the block. My compression is good by the way so, anyone got any ideas on why my car is lacking the power it should have?

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Is the clutch slipping? if the clutch components were used or original it wouldnt be a bad idea to replace both. both can be had for about $100. If the car was a shell like you said, the clutch pedal itself may need adjustment.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I don't think its slipping the clutch is brand new it has a maximum of 2 miles on it. I looked up prices for clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder and they both are only about $25 at Autozone. It's bumming me out that the car is lacking so much power, its like it wants to get up and go but it just doesnt.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

take a video of it so we can see what its doing.

RoToRhEaD722

iTrader: (5)

Did you get that clutch kit from eBay? I got one from eBay and it came with a shitty release bearing that broke the first time I pushed in the clutch. It actually got stuck to the pressure plate and made my car feel really down on power. With that being said do you hear any strange noise when the engine is running and foot off the clutch with the trans in neutral?

But yeah post a video

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Alright Ill try to get a video of it. I got an HD clutch kit and yea it was off of Ebay. I can't really hear anything strange but I do have RB Road Race headers to OBX catback so its pretty loud even at idle. That actually could be the problem though. My clutch feels soft like there is still air in the system. The engine runs great its just when I put it in gear to drive it just is really slow and wont really get up to speed unless I get the RPMS up and even then it just lacks any torque or power. Ill try to get a video up before work.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I wasn't able to get a video before I had to work thanks to the rainy weather today. I was thinking of a better way to explain my problem and basically when I drive the car the RPM's are up there but the speedo reads low speeds. For examply I pulled away from a stop sign and to even get the car up to like 20mph I had to get the RPM's up to like 3.5 to 4k. It has to be a clutch problem because I can't think of any reason the car would be in "limp mode".

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Rotorhead722 today I listened really carefully for any weird noises when pressing in and releasing the clutch pedal and you may be right about the release bearing. When the clutch is released I can hear a weird slight rattle sound almost and then when I press the clutch in the noise goes away. When I installed the new engine I remember not even checking the release bearing before installing it. The more I think about it the more I think that is my problem which kind of sucks.

vrracing

iTrader: (1)

The clutch is naturally engaged and the hydraulics and release bearing disengage it. A slipping clutch should be really obvious.

I have been confused by your descriptions (limp mode, no power, etc). When you drive it do you smell the heart-warming aroma of burning clutch? If you don't then it doesnt seem likely that the clutch disengagement system is the problem. If the release bearing is "bad", then it would make a horrible noise when you depressed the clutch pedal and forced it into the pressure plate's spring fingers. If you didnt lube the tranny output shaft and the release bearing was catching and not falling back, the clutch would slip and you'd smell it.

The other symptom of a slipping clutch is that when you accelerated, the car won't accelerate very quickly but the engine would redline in short order.

I dont think a release bearing rattling a bit when the clutch is not depressed is an issue. It has to have some space between it and the sleeve it moves back and forth on and that sleeve wears over time which would cause a rattle in 20+ year old car.

Hope it works out. I'd hate to see you pull the tranny and not resolve the problem.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I do smell something strange when the car is running but I figured that was because it was the first time the metal I used to finish out my exhaust had been heated to that extent and it was burning off dirt and stickers. I did not lube the output shaft before installing the engine. What Im experiencing sounds like your second sympton of a slipping clutch, when I drive the car it accelerates very slowly and the RPM's are very high. Basically if I have the RPM's at 4K the speed should be faster then 10mph. I aligned my clutch before installing the engine so what do you think would cause it to slip? Not lubing the output shaft? Shitty release bearing? Air in the system? I dont hear anything terrible just a very slight rattle noise. I tried spraying brake parts cleaner on the clutch/flywheel and pumping the clutch but it didn't do anything lol.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

My neighbor is a highly skilled mechanic who works right out of his house and he is the one who gave me the brake parts cleaner to spray on the clutch. He also said that since my clutch isn't holding pressure that my slave cylinder more then likely is bad. I ordered a slave cylinder and its supposed to be here by the time I go to work today. Tomorrow I'll change slave cylinders and see if thats the problem.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

highly doubt that is the problem. the clutch will fail with the pressure plate pushing on the clutch making shifting gears difficult (clutch doesnt want to separate from flywheel) if the clutch is slipping (slow speeds but high rpm) then your problem is elsewhere.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I can shift perfectly fine. The clutch was aligned when it was installed. I dont hear any terrible rattling noises. I don't really smell anything burning anymore so that smell was indeed my exhaust heating up for the first time. I actually have new clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder and they are already in the process of being changed over.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

You were right still have the same problem but the clutch does feel alot better. Theres alot more pressure pushing back now. What do you think the problem is guys the release bearing?

RoToRhEaD722

iTrader: (5)

I think so!

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

That's really unfortunate if that is the problem because I don't feel like the taking the transmission out but if it needs to be done then it needs to be done. I have one last thing to try before that is the only thing left to do.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

I'm ordering a new clutch kit from CarQuest in a few days. A new clutch should solve the problem. I can't wait to get this car running right and finally be able to drive it! After 2 years of working on this car it is time to stop bullshitting and finish it.

cab91089

iTrader: (3)

Update 5/29/13: I have not done anything to the car other then hook my oil pressure sensor back up because it somehow managed to become disconnected. I lost my repair manual somehow so with that being said, does anyone know what color wire the oil level sensor connects to? As of right now it's not hooked up to anything because I cannot figure out what wire it goes to. I have 1 yellow/red wire (same color as the oil pressure sensor) open but it will not reach all the way down to the sensor, it only reaches to about the oil pressure sensor but that is already hooked up with a different yellow/red wire. Any help is appreciated. I still am having a leak from my oil cooler. I realized that its leaking from the top oil cooler line but at the bottom crush washer and the oil cooler drain bolt leaks a tiny bit too. I know the drain bolt just needs to be tightened back up a bit but I cannot get the top line to loosen or tighten its like its seized somehow. I put the line on myself no more then a year ago so I dont see how it would get seized especially considering the threads are coated with oil, it should turn free easily.

little2fast4u

iTrader: (1)

lookin good dude! keep up the good work