I got a 87 TII a year ago and had never worked on rotaries before. With what I know now I could have gotten it running like new without making it a huge project... however that was not the case and anyhow I ended up with a 91 TII motor and tranny to put in it... not the easiest option but its running now.

What I need help with is trouble shooting why it wont stay running. I have deleted the power steering, AC, Emissions nest, air pump, oil metering pump and oil injectors. I cut the injector wires and soldered in new round plugs for high imp injectors and took out the in line resistor for the old style injectors. I put a pipe in line with the upper radiator hose to hold the coolant sensor that the S4 metal water neck holds and they have all been replaced with new sensors. emptied the gas tank and put 5 gallons of mixed gas in, about 150:1 or so with the mix. I put it in a little rich with oil because I was unsure of how much gas was left after I drained the tank...

I might be forgetting something but any ideas on why it wont run longer than 15 seconds would be appreciated. Feel free to ask questions. The car starts right back up after it dies each time. After starting it 20 times or so because I thought maybe it needs to get fuel back into the system I tried revving it up, it got up to 7000 rpm then sputtered out again as before. Runs very smooth when it stays on... Any ideas??

Any and all help is appreciated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wOz3_...xkrIJt3ctn0V8=

Here is a vid of me trying to keep it alive as it just sputters out.
NEED HELP WITH:
Isn't that the idle air control valve? And where is the damn plug?? could not find it. Is there one of these on the S4?

Why does the E fan turn on with the key?

Can I put a catch can on these two lines? Or do I just use the bottom one and cap the top?

What could cause the car to die after a few seconds when it starts up every time?

 

yes, that is the BAC valve. the connector is different between s4 and s5. the s5 has an oval plug, the s4 is square. they look like the fuel injector connectors.

 

AFM is either not connected or bad would be my guess as to why its dying

 

^+1 i would also check for a vacuum leak!

 

Try to get out some fault codes if any apply's. But what I don't know is does it idle or do you have to put your foot on the pedal?

Like Rotorhead722 says: check for vacuum leaks, you may have missed a small hole.

 

Mine did this when I unplugged the boost sensor...I plugged it back up, disconnected the battery for a little bit and it ran fine after that.

 

Hey Ace,

What ECU are you running, it better not be stock since you removed that OMP.

 

Thanks for your input so far everyone. Yes it is running the N332. It has a 1 as the last digit in the PN so from what the forum says that means it has been re manned at some point. The car had a mechanical OMP to begin with, when I swapped in the S5 that ran an EOMP I assumed the car would not know if I removed the system because it was all mechanical on the original motor.

The boost sensor should be working because the dash gauge works... am I wrong to assume this?? I dont know how to check for codes but I will try that this weekend.

It will high idle on its own without me touching the pedal. Me trying to keep it alive doesnt make it run longer, it just sputters out as if it I ran out of fuel.

Do I need the BAC valve? I have seen pictures of people with this blocked off but I assume they have different engine management.

How can I test my AFM? I unplugged it and still had the same issues so I think this could be a possible cause.

The charcoal canister wasn't hooked up at the time, I will make sure everything is connected this weekend, maybe it is preventing the system from getting pressure.

 

id like to know more about the emissions/engine harness your using! did you swap a s4 TPS and AFM as well? i did the same swap but i run s5 electronics.

a high idle or no idle still sounds like a vacuum leak to me! i had this same problem, it would start every time but would either die if i didnt stay on the throttle or would idle at like 4,000 rpm on its own.

you dont need the BAC but you will probably need to readjust your idle and your tps! rotary resurection has a really good write up on emissions removal! actually they have alot of good info on everything so deff check out that site.

sorry if im not much help but good luck!

 

Yes, in my swap I am using the intake manifold from the S5 and the throttle body from the S4. It takes some small grinding to get them to mate properly. The S4 TB (throttle body) is to retain the S4 electronics on the throttle body position sensor. I could abbreviate almost everything I say in my posts but that gets annoying for people who just want the information without translating everything they read.... Ive been there I know...

so anyways..update.
Went to put the S4 BAC (Bypass air control) valve on so I could use the square plug.. dropped it and it landed on the plastic end on the floor....broke it. Sooo looks like I'll be jumping the connections with some wires or just blocking it off, not sure yet. So mad at myself. I could probably modify the plug to fit but I'll look into how important it is first.

 

Oh and per rotorhead,
I cant keep it alive with the throttle, just dies out so matter what. I was told the charcoal canister holds vacuum for the motor at low RPMs and idle... can anyone verify this? Im working on getting it hooked back up because Im thinking it could be my vacuum leak/issue.