Hey Guys,

I wanted to make a thread to track progress and to ask specific questions I might have. I am from Canada so the build thread might be a little slow due to short summers but I will do my best to keep it up to date.

So I found a 1987 back turbo 2 with 148,000 Original KM on it. It was a bit rough, no brakes (leaky abs pump, seized callipers, dry rotted tires ect). The body was decent, little bit of rust on Pass frame rail, little bit of rust around top of windshield, Other then that it was pretty good and all original.


J

I got the car home and put some good tires on it and went for a test drive down a back road. The car starts and idles nice and pulls to redline (breaks up around 3,000RPM and one time hit what seemed to be fuel cut).

Now a few questions I have (and Yes I have been researching for the past weeks and will continue to research).

1. I read it is ok to use NKG B9EGV for all 4 instead of 2 7 heat range plugs if modded.

2. I bought a Racing Beat 3" downpipes and x-pipe, no mufflers. I plan on installing this as the stock exhaust is rusted out. I plan to install a FCD and port the stock waste gate.

3. The car had old gas ad the PO was premixing 2storke snowmobile oil with the gas. I filled the car up with 94 octane fish gas, do you guys suggest premixing oil with my setup?

When I remove the ABS (going to use the 3 OEM mazda brake lines) I will also change fuel filter and check everything over. Are there any other suggested mods while I'm there?

This is not my first rx-7 but it is the first one with a ROTARY and I plan on keeping it like that! any help is greatly appreciated. Photos of progress will be Posted!

Justin

 

All 9's is fine, preferable plug is ngk bur9eqp.

Full exhaust, definitely port the wastegate, aggressively.

Does the car still have an oil metering pump? If yes, you don't have to premix, but it will extend engine life. If no, you MUST run premix.

It may be a good idea to check/ clean the fuel pump sock if it's been sitting a while.

 

Cool find. WHere abouts in Canada are you? Im next to Toronto and also just picked up a turbo II.

Is your OMP still hooked up? If it is I would not add 2 stroke oil to the gas. Generally people do one or the other. ( use the OMP, or disconnect and premix oil in gas). Just keep up with the regular maintenance.

 

Beat me to the OMP info^^^

 

I finally have some time to work on the car and will have some progress pictures up this weekend. I am located in Toronto Canada.

I have to look into the OMP, I'm sure it has it as the car was completely stock.

I looked into porting the waste gate and that will be done during the abs removal before I drive the car (thanks for the heads up).

So aside from suspension and brakes which will be all be new, I am planning on installing the 3" TBE, all new spark plugs, walbro fuel pump as I don't trust the old one. Is there anything else I'm missing?

Now the thing I am unsure of is if the engine will last with the higher boost levels brought from the free flowing exhaust. Should I get a FCD like everyone seems to reccomend(seems like a bad idea to boost over stock levels with the same amount of fuel). Or should I look into an RTEk 2.1 or just go straight to a standalone?

My overall goal with the car would be a reliable, quick spooling 350whp.

 

A fuel cut defender will allow you to increase your boost pressure, however bolt on's and increased boost are going to cut down engine life on a stock ecu. Also if you go to a walboro 255 fuel pump, you'll want to grab an adjustable fuel pressure regulator too as the stock unit can't handle the increased fuel flow.

Your best option will be to pick up an rtek 2.1 or some other ecu, a wideband and a good tune.

You'll never get 350whp out of the stock turbo. If that's your goal you'll at a minimum the above, an upgraded intercooler, and larger injectors.

 

No one has recommended a FCD in probably over a decade. You're mostly seeing old threads, or newbies who don't know any better regurgitating old threads. It's a very crude, and very dangerous way to increase boost. The RTEK (also outdated) is a much better choice if you plan on keeping this build pretty basic.

 

Hey guys, got some nice progress done:

Removed all stock suspension and brakes, ordered rebuild kits for the callipers from mazdatrix, as well as PBM coilovers, energy suspension bushing kit, Racing beat motor and transmission mounts, brembo rotors and hawk hp+ pads with new SS lines and the emissions block off plates.

Now I need some advice on what emissions I should remove. I want to keep the BAC (but remove the coolant line) due to some colder weather start here in the spring time all 5-10 degree C. Anything else that I should keep or can the rest go?

 

Ive used the FCD but installed a FPR and added pressure to accomodate the extra boost but I wouldnt go above 10psi and you MUST have a wideband for monitoring, hands down wideband is the first thing you should buy if your running that motor daily. If you had an Rtek 2.1 you wouldnt even need the FCD cause it is built within the new ECU. Stock turbo (wastegate ported) can run 12psi with fuel adjustment made for top end and youll be close to around 275hp and keeping stock 550cc injectors. I did 13.5 1/4 mile with 104mph, thats as fast if not faster than a modded STI or Evo.

Plenty of options out there but I've had my rtek for while now and am finally at the peak of my t4 60-1 turbo and am going adaptronic standalone for more power, but I always appreciated the rteks simplicity.

 

Update

I finally have all the ABS removed, new lines ran, new suspension and brakes in.

I am currently working on porting the stock turbo, But i can't get the dam exhaust housing free!! going to keep trying, any tips?

I still can't decide if I should put the walbro fuel pump and FPR in, I also got a set of 720cc injectors.

My issue is that I'm worried the cart will be running to rich if I install these because I have nothing to control the fuel. I was going to order the RTEK 1.7 for now so I can get the FCD and run the 720cc secondaries. Then next year when my bank account catches up I can go with a haltech e6x.

Would the RTEK1.7 be enough to handle the car with he walbro and 720cc secondaries? On the site it says it does not mess with the fuel maps?

I have some progress pics I will be throwing up as well, love this car thanks for the help in getting it running as it should.

 

sounds like you making progress

 

Back out the bolts that hold the turbine housing on until they contact the CHRA. If you loosen them alternately, the housing should come off.

I know this is a 3rd gen link, but the principles are the same.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...y-tips-984779/




Great leaping lizards! Don't waste money on upgrading injectors or an RTEK if you are going to look at a different controller next year. Save your pennies and do it right. The RTEK has the FCD built in, BTW.

Getting a decent fuel pump should be fine, but may make the car run excessively rich on a stock PCM.

Also, do not waste your money on the E6X. That PCM is a dinosaur and is tuned using DOS based software. Get a Haltech PS1000, MS3X, MS3Pro, Adaptronic, etc. Literally any other ECU that is with the modern times.

 

Nice find!!! when you get to driving it would you write up something about those coils?? I'm thinking about the Max pro coils myself.

 

Thanks ACR RX7 for the help, that worked perfectly came right off.

87JDMturbo - when I get the car running I will write something up for them.


Steering wheel and new location I'm thinking of doing for the gauges (boost, A/F, Water temp), I am only concerned about blocking the CEL, do you guys think that will be an issue?


Does anyone know what this hose is coming form the rotor housing? I can't seem to find it and am not sure if this just gets capped?


Racing Beat 3" with silencer. Want too happy about the silencer (wanted straight pipe) but Im going to run it and see how it sounds.Need to drill and weld in bung for wideband, also have some thermal paint and going to heat wrap.



grinded and painted the engine bay where the ABS pump leaked everywhere. Came out decent good enough until the motor comes out and I can actually get in there.


picked up some 18x9 and 18x10 Work Emotion XD-9



Stock s4 turbo waste gate ported with bigger flapper welded on




Ran into my old LS1 fc at the track this past weekend, very sad to let that car go

 

[QUOTE=
Does anyone know what this hose is coming form the rotor housing? I can't seem to find it and am not sure if this just gets capped?

QUOTE]

That's the 90degree coolant hose. It connects to the bottom of the TB. Its a bitch btw...

 

[QUOTE=JCurry;12092111]Thanks I remember removing that now. Can I not cap that line now that I removed emissions and secondary flap in throttle body?

Also 1 question I had about the primary fuel Injector before I put UIM back on. When removing one of the primary injectors the wires pulled out of the plug. I put them back but did not know which way they came out. I checked wiring diagram but can't figure out the colours. Can anyone confirm his is correct?

 

Why not test with a multi meter to be sure?

 

Good call on the PSM coilovers

 

Ya you can cap it if your not running the cold start equipment on the throttle body anymore

 

Did you have any issues bolting up the front pbm coilovers? Stock bolts fit fine? Reason I ask is I was installing my pbms and the front mounting bolts aren't long enough. Just want to see if anyone else ran into this issue with their pbms.