I was pretty tired last night, but I just wanted to put that up there and I'll just elaborate on it now.

Before I even dig in too deep, we still need to remember this is a supercharger and not a turbocharger so the way they work is a little different.

With that in mind, with a supercharger, if no bypass valve (or BOV) is installed, then you could always be in boost. But with a bypass valve it allows you to go to vacuum and save fuel at light loads (ie, idle, highway cruising ...). Now obviously you won't have that happen with a turbo as a turbo doesn't create boost right off the bat (well maybe unless you put a really small one that passes its efficiency by the time your at 2500rpm)

He has recommended a Bosch one thats mostly used on VW, but i'm not sure if I like those ones. I've been reading up on them and they don't seem to be that good. So I'll have to dig around to find out better ways.

 

I see. So you'll be leaving it open until manifold vacuum is low, basically creating an intentional boost leak to take load off the compressor.

I'll caution you that not all BOVs have enough adjustment range to even allow them to be open at idle. My old-school Blitz valve doesn't; even with the screw backed all the way out, it's still closed. As much as I hate to advertise for them, Synapse's valves are apparently designed to be able to do just what you're describing, as shown in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B_RWZASfE3M

And for the record, my turbo creates pressure from idle, too.

 

Ya I was looking at Synapses product and they do look pretty promising. Just wish they made a bypass valve also, unless i can actually attach something in front of the valve and let it send out the air to the intake of the supercharger.

 

According to their website it comes with a recirculation fitting.

 

I suspected that something like that is available , because looking at it, there's a spot for a screw to go in the bottom

 

Where did you read that? I didn't see that anywhere on their site?

I will be putting one on regardless of what anyone says, so let's try not steer me away from this idea. I can be pretty hard headed.

Another thing that I might also do is change all my injectors to the ones that Paul Yaw sells.

 

Well, I can't exactly link to the page since their entire website is done in Flash (brilliant, guys ). But if you look under products -> BOV -> SB001, it says it includes 1.25" Al recirculation fitting and SS weld-on flange.

 

Ah I see it now, its easy to miss things looking at a phone screen

 

Here is the Manual.

 

synapse is good a friend has it

 

Count me in for the updates.

 

David Hayes uses a Synapse waste gate on his 3 rotor FD, and he loves it.

 

Well after a few weeks of agonizing wait and anticipation, it finally came in

I've placed my phone (HTC Hero ... no Icrap here ) beside it for comparison of size. As you can tell its pretty compact. I'll be weighing it later on as I just love to know the weight of everything.

I'll be making the pulleys myself for it. I'll be starting up with a 70MM pulley pulley I believe at first. I'm also most likely going to be redoing all the pulley and making them out of aluminum. The main pulley and possibly the water pump, will both maintain the V groove belt on the back, but as an addition to the front side, a spot for a 6 rib will be added in for the supercharger belt to ride on. This will also allow moving the supercharger a little closer to the front of the engine to give me more clearance to the spark plugs and more room for piping everything.

I should be working on the brackets hopefully as early as next week. MDF mockups will be used for the initial measuring, and later CNC machined aluminum brackets will be made up and hopefully I can run some FEA on it to optimize the strength and weight of the brackets.

I've already been to the parts store to find off the shelf replacement belts and a tensioner that could work for it. So just in case anything decides to let go, nothing from that will need to be custom ordered through me or anything like that. I've already had an issue with the flaming river rack using their own inner tie rods and might consider taking that rack out and using another one with a quick ration that takes the stock tie rods from a mustang. Regular maintenance parts like that shouldn't be custom made, thats just the way I like things and its the reason that I can trust my car to travel across a continent. One thing I might even do on the bracket so you guys never forget what is from what, is engrave what year and model car the belt and tensioner are from so it accessible comes the time you need to get one in the middle of no where.

Anyways enough talking and onto the pictures:

 

*happy*

 

Aw man that's beautiful.

 

My mouth just got wet. That means I'm salivating over here.

Reminds me of when a local rotary shop owner got a Whipple supercharger and figured out a way to install it on a 20B.

 

I am very pumped about this as well. I can't wait to see either a video of this thing running or how much power it ends up making.

 

For the people that don't know, I'm only in need of 300hp or so at the wheels for track use, and about 250 for the street, I might be swapping pulleys on track, but ill see how I like 300hp on the street first, if I deem it too much, ill probably step it down.

I'm only looking at about 10psi max boost. so if your expecting some very big numbers, ill be disappointing you. I'm looking for a flat torque curve more than anything else.

 

Personally, I think that you've got it about spot on for a street car. I don't see why you'd need much more in an FB. I'm just pumped because I love the idea of a supercharged rotaries.

 

Not looking for very big numbers - but 300 whp should be nice.
Especially if someone gets to keep using all their N/A Go fast goodies.

Also - Don't count on a "FLAT" torque curve. What you have is belt driven Turbocharger, so you will see a "LINEAR" Torque curve going up with RPM.

As far as the fabrication goes, If I were you I would really look into using the stock AC/PS bracket -as it is very, very Heavy duty.

 

I can barely keep my 225 wide toyo R888 hooking properly with my power level as is (last dyno was 165 HP, and 135 ft-lb but its probably closer to 170 HP and a bit more torque now as I'm getting quicker speeds on the straights at the track after retuning and changing rear end ( went from a 4.1 to 3.9 again, but even before with the 3.9 I was hitting about 10km/h slower. I also put in a miata torsen as oppose to the clutch type that was in there and that in itself also weighs 4lb lighter, so maybe its from lightening the drivetrain)

I might consider going staggered tires also for next year, 225 front, and 245 rear, or just stiffen up all my spring rates to stay even flatter throughout the turns .

 

Damn, that's not a supercharger, that's just a pretty alternator! lol. I never expected it to be so tiny!

 

I thought about using that bracket , but its too heavy for my liking truthfully.

As for the torque line, I'm going to try and aim for the flatess line possible, i'll have to just wait and see how the numbers come up, but I might be putting intake restrictors to keep it flatter.

 

Don't let the size fool you the best things come in small packages.

 

300hp is plenty adequate to endlessly spin my Eagle 235/50's on the Z... or to launch it with tunnel-vision-inducing results. And it outweighs the SA by close to 2:1.