mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

I'll be talking to you Mike!! That should be in the clear! I'll get info from you asap

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Just a little Update:

Spent some time cleaning up a lot of little things here and there.

Here is the view from the bumper opening. Still have plenty of room for brake ducts on either side of the radiator/Intercooler duct work.

I also went and got an Alignment at "The Tire Store." 95 bucks plus a tire swap mount and balance. Not bad. Got the car driving straight. I used the following specs for my alignment.

-2 Front Camber
+8 Front Caster
-.5 rear camber
1/8" rear toe in

Thanks to John Markely (JBF) for helping me out with specs. Also, my guy was unable to get +8 Caster up front because of limitations with the oem arms... But he was able to get +7.5... which I was completely fine with.

This was right before we dropped it down another 1/4"

I also had my Vibrant 4" in Dual 3" outs Muffler v-banded so I could run an actual exhaust and hopefully quiet the car down a bit...okok...a whole lot. Here is the Video of it installed and idling.
20130920_163632_zps9b48d8cf.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
or this if that doesn't work
<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid804.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fyy325%2Fmannykiller%2FFD%2520Build%2F 20130920_163632_zps9b48d8cf.mp4">

And since I ended up changing my WHole Intake set up I had to re-weld in my water/Meth injection nozzle. Had BJ weld in the previous hole in the Rotary Works TB and He built up some Alum at the desired angle so we could drill and tap it for the AEM nozzle.
Doing a little bit of drilling...

you can see the filled port right to the lower right of the new hole


and Nozzle position

And it's hard to tell but the nozzle is pointed directly at the center of the elbow....should work just fine...I hope ;-)

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Other than that....Now that i'm able to drive the car without alerting the authorities within a 3 mile Radius....I put about 200 miles on the car this past weekend. Running the car through multiple surrounding canyons, street, and even on the freeway. I've kept the car below 5K RPM and only ever use partial throttle because of the difference in Intake length, quicker response with OEM TB/UIM etc.

Also, I've done a compression check and All seems in great shape...especially since these are 1 pc Ceramic Seals. I'm excited to get back on the dyno and put some power down to the ground. I have no leaks, my Triumph Fast Acting AIT sensor is calibrated correctly thanks to Mr. Josh W. I hate to boast....but at this point...I can honestly say that this is by FAR the best heat managed fd I've ever been in to date ;-) Temps are Always in check. For instance... This past weekend it was 95 degrees F outside. I have a very steep graded 3 mile (about 1 1/2mile up hill & down-hill) canyon pass close to my house..so I decided to do a little test. Put the car into 4th gear and cruised bogged the whole way up. Logged Temps and never saw over 90 Degrees Celsius. If I would've attempted the same thing with my orginal koyo, front mount... even with speed and water injection.... I would've been at 95 degrees C. I'm super pumped, because this means I can stay on track longer... run a few more laps, ..worry about my next initiation and clipping point rather than nervously watching my Water temp gauge and staying off the throttle.. Staying cool is by far something I've tried my hardest to "Get in check." And I won't completely know until I get a full track day under my belt....but so far...2 dyno sessions and the beat of the street hasn't trumped anything yet. More Updates soon... Stay Tuned!!

Dliverance

iTrader: (9)

I've been contemplating picking up one of those RW TB's. The price is right but I think I need more of an angle to mate up with their v mount pipes. If I do get one I would have to file that v part down.

shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

See I don't get it, I am on the track all day and my coolant temps stay and 84-85 degree's C the whole time and my fans never kick in.. the only time my fans come on is if I am parked.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Are climate is way different than yours. If you ran your car out here you'd understand.

JBF

iTrader: (13)

I think we had a solid month of 100+ degree temps out here in the SoCal desert.

Slightly different than Minnesota.

shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

Well then you should all move to the great state of Minnesota!

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

soooooo small update: Scare...

I had a small scare... I was still having problems with my clutch. I bled it a few times and it would be ok at first but eventually it would start to get worse and worse. So I ordered a new Master cylinder from O'reillys. 78 bucks with lifetime warranty..can't beat that. Installed it and found that my old clutch master had a small crack in the plastic fitting that goes to the reservoir. Bled the new one and all the sudden my car had a perfectly solid Clutch pedal action. It was great. THEN I turned the battery on and turned the key.. the car cranked twice....then lights off... then I looked up confused and saw wafts of smoke. Hit the kill switch and jumped out of the car...opened the hood and saw smoke coming from the coil area right where i'd just installed the Clutch master cylinder. Pulled the coils out to inspect them.....and noticed a completely bare wire that should've had some type of shrink on it...it used to be white... and then I followed it...to find that I had accidently pinched the wire...not even fully but just by a hair... between the clutch master cylinder and the firewall of the car. It must've grounded out and it fried about 10 Inches of the wire all the way to the plug. The plug hooks up to the OEM igniter but with my AEM smart coils this hooks up for the direct fire configuration. I snipped the wire and removed it and re soldered in a nice piece of wire... heat shrank the two open splice spots and hooked everything up again...making sure not to pinch anything in the process. Checked my Harness fuses and the coil harness fuse didn't blow..so that's a good sign. Checked my Ignition harness and the 30 AMP fuse popped...as well as another 30 AMp in the main fuse box on the drivers side wheel well popped as well. Replaced them both and the car started up just fine. Was still a bit weary as the car could still start with a bad coil or two. So I took it for a nice little drive to the gas station and back. Drove fine...Logged my drive just to take a look to see if anything looked different...as far as Air/Fuel...(Rich where I previously wasn't) And I didn't notice anything different. I guess I should pull the plugs just to make sure that everything is firing but right now I think it's safe to say everything is just fine. I am overly happy for these fuses though.. a stupid simple and pretty common mistake could've cost me a whole lot more than 2 30 AMP fuses... could've fried the coils and been out 200 bucks. I'll do the manual plug check later today. But That was my scare.... so for people reading this. Just be diligent and take your time. I was in a rush because I was supposed to meet my girlfriend to watch the dodger game at a local bar... really....I could've just waited till after and I wouldn't have made the mistake because I would've been taking my time. But since I was rushed and trying to be all Fast pit crew status...I made a mistake and luckily it didn't bite my ***. But Just wanted to emphasis that we should all take our time on the simple tasks and stop rushing. Anyways...Moving on...
Heres the new Clutch Master Cylinder from Oreillys:

And I'm not sure where I should place my Power Steering cooler. I don't want it under the car because it seems a little too delicate for that...but I don't want it to be too bulky and look stupid sitting on top of the motor etc. Here are a few different options:

Wedged in the gap closer to the drivers side wheel well




I also finally finished my Second Catch Can line to vent the motor from both sides. Both are -6AN i'm using the OEM drain on the passenger side of the motor, and the Drivers side oil fill neck.

And I went and saw Between the Buried and Me this past sunday... love this band so much

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Gotta admit I cant help but smile everytime I see your pink engine bay Definitely not something Id do, but somehow all the crazyness works. Looks like its coming together nicely.

mefarri

iTrader: (2)

BTBAM. Brutal.

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Update: The true nature of the beast.


Hey there guys, so I just wanted to update everyone as to what is going on with the build. So I'll lay it all out for you guys.

The first time hitting the dyno there were in fact complications. There were no mechanical failures and everything checked out fine. The shop did a compression check...and The motor had 90/89 compression front and rear with these NRS ceramic 3mm one piece seals from the get go...AND after the shop did a compression check. While on the dyno, my tuner was running into a problem where he would lose contact with the ECU at around 5200 RPM. And then around 5500 he was getting ignition break up. We changed the plugs but didn't have any success. I decided to take the car home an hour and 45min haul back to the desert. My tuner said fix it and bring it back. I got the car home and couldn't seem to find any problems. I went through my entire ignition system and everything checked out good...then I figured maybe the plugs were bad. So I started to pull them and immediately realized that my plug wires were in fact crossed. I was on the dyno that first session the entire time running on 2 plugs. The shop hand had changed my plugs and done a compression check and he mixed the wires up..even though they're labelled! But I still wasn't sure why my tuner was losing communication on the dyno with the ecu... So I contacted elliot from turblown and he said to make a couple safe pulls..log them and send them over. We changed a setting on the map sensor sothat it was "Always filtering but we definitely weren't running into the same problem. And I wasn't sure what he was even talking about since there was no comm loss on my logs even before I had contacted Elliot. So I contacted Andy from Adaptronic and he said to make sure my tuner was using the correct firmware. I sent him an e-mail telling him his shop hand crossed my plugs and that he needed to download the correct firmware for hte adaptronic software. I also asked him about flat rate prices since I had spent 600 already and my secondaries still were not staged. I got no reply so i called him and asked him to discuss the same thing and he kinda put me off about it and just moved onto the next tuning session. . Skip forward a couple weeks and I head back down there. This time I change plugs before hand and make sure everything is working correctly. Were on the dyno for 2 hours and my tuner calls me over and tells me he's having the same communication problem with the ecu. The first thing I say is "did you upgrade the firmware?" ...he says "what firmware." And i shook my head and repeated how I had sent him the link so all he had to do was click on it and save it to desk-top, load it on the adaptronic start page and he wouldn't have the comm problem. So we switch to my lap top and what do you know... NO communication error and everything is just fine. So the tuner is doing some pulls and is working on drivability and after one such pull the car doesn't start for 35 min. Crank crank crank..with no turn-over. He finally gets it started and makes a couple more pulls and pulls me aside and says "So the car is about 60whp short of where it should be compared to other cars I've tuned at the same boost pressure." The car made 298 whp and 269 Tq @ 11 lbs of boost pressure. He said I should've been up at 350-380 with this turbo and ported motor. I agreed. He then said we can crank up the boost and see what it does or you do whatever I'd like. I opted to leave it the way it was... take it home and see what the problem was. So I got the car home and guess what. It's hard starting and compression is low. Well that sucks. So I send the motor back to Howard coleman and the guy rebuilds my motor at a very very fairly discounted price. Excellent customer service! So skip forward and I have the motor back within a week....yes thats right....ONE WEEK and howard had the motor back to me with a detailed spec sheet of all my parts. This motor had great compression. I changed UIM's because the dyno was showing a flow restriction at around 5600 rpm... So I figured i'd put an oem one on and change back after the car was tuned to see if we hit the same problem...this would save money. Anyways....

Gotta run... I'll continue the story asap
departing dyno pic...

Grant M

That sucks can't see the image?

evo_koa

iTrader: (2)

i saw btbam a few years ago with opeth and dream theater. it was an awesome show!

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

Update Continued: "The Nature of the beast"

So I got the motor back and got everything installed. The new OEM UIM set up was installed and a couple small things were changed. The first was the Install of the Innovate Tc-4. I installed it so that I could now Log my EGT's. I truly believe that there are advantages of having closely matched egt's. Balance is important and like I said has a part in longevity. It just makes sense that if both egt's are constantly within say 10-15 Degree's of each other then things are in balance. You won't have one side of the motor doing more or less work than the other. Anyways.. I go the motor running and put right over 400 Miles on the fresh rebuild. Changed the oil as advised by my new tuner to Royal Purple synthetic 20/50 and swapped the plugs to new ones. Took her around the block and filled her up with a nice fresh tank of 91 Octane from a very busy gas station near by. Pre-mixed 1.3 Ounces per gallon and took the car home and did a compression check. Motor was on the mark and the new compression numbers were 98/101. Good stuff.. trailered the car and was awaiting the tuning session in the morning in Valencia California at a shop called Creations and Chrome. This shop was absolutely gorgeous. Professional, Clean, you name it.....they are by far the nicest shop/dyno tuning facility I've ever been to. They even have a motorcycle specific dyno on site just for those "biker Boys." I want to Personally Thank Gary for opening up the dyno for me on sunday. They've definitely won me over as a life long customer.

We loaded up my car on the dyno so we could get ready to rock as soon as my tuner got there. This picture.....means a lot to me. Because I've worked so hard to get to this point. WHen I first purchased this car..I knew very little about the rotary in general. Although I've pulled motors etc before... this was going to be the first time I did everything on my own. Here is IMO one of the best shots of my car. Because this machine was ready to perform.


On this dyno...there were two large fans...we used the smaller more direct snail fan for my radiator and the Large traditional 4 ft fan to blow overall. Although I havn't had any problems keeping cool even on boosted runs the previous dyno session.... It was nice to have the extra cfm's. We got started and instantly my tuner got the idle VERY smooth. I couldn't believe how much better it idle'd initially. My tuner did some drivability cruising but didn't do any full pulls. The session was going smooth. We got to the point where it was time to get into boost but as advised I pulled my tuner to the side and asked him if we could double check the timing before we get into boost. I wanted to make sure everything was spot on. We hooked up the timing light and found that timing was advanced to 37 Degrees?! My tuner was appalled and said that was ridiculous. So we started resetting it...and found out that my front housing leading coil was not firing. As some of you guys may know... a week and a half ago...or so I installed a new clutch master cylinder. I pinched an ignition wire and ended up popping a couple fuses. This is exactly why I wanted to double check. Could I have checked at home and avoided all of this? yes.. lazy? YES..Did I learn my lesson? Absolutely. I found out my coil wasn't firing and I immediately told the tuner it wasn't a problem and I have a buddy in town that would most likely let me borrow one of his since we run the same set up. ...even if he wasn't available or didn't want to lend it to me...I could have a new smart coil in the car in 4 days. So I said.."hey i'll get a new coil and we can be back on the dyno by Thursday or Friday." My tuner said..."well lets do this..as soon as it starts breaking up, i'll just let out." I said...are you sure man? He said "yea, i'll do a partial throttle run just to see where it's at, and once it starts breaking up i'll back out." So since I don't tune....and he does. Although my gut instinct said stop and take the car home...fix it and bring it back when it's 100%.. I said ok. So he starts walking away..and I said....."Hey, do you want me to pull 12V off of my Mac valve so we just run straight WG spring pressure?" He said "Whats it at?" I said..."I have no idea, but I do know the wastegate springs are set at 14lbs." He said....nah don't worry about it. So the pull...

And Yea..some of you guys may know... doesn't sound good eh? Well it wasn't. The car was running on one rotor on Decel off that run....and my tunning session was over. I got the car home... did a quick compression check although I already knew...and it showed 0. Needle didn't even move =nice. Didn't even bother checking front housing compression. Closed the hood and went to dinner with my lovely girlfriend to get my mind off my expensive as **** piece of garbage. Woke up the next morning and decided to pull her to see the extent of the damage. got the turbo manifold off and looked into the ports.....yea... Half of one of my 1 piece 3mm Ceramic seals was sharded off.. scatter blasted all through my New rotor faces... Got pissed off...closed the hood and went and hung out with my girlfriend again to calm my *** down. Finally got motivation that night to check my gtx3582R...which had 2 dyno sessions on it and about 450 miles total on it... and... YAY:
Shaft play every which way and.......


So yea...I missed All-star Bash...I'm going to be missing Seven stock unless I rush things... and the motor that contained an 1800 Dollar Atkins Balanced Rotating assembly, Mint super low mileage housings, 750 dollar NRS ceramic Seals, and a build that cost 3600 with every cleaning options available including porting shipping etc.. had all but been destroyed. Yes front housing and rotor might've been saved...but seriously.. whats another housings and rotor at this point? Also...that's a 1500 junk turbo. So as you guys may guess... I was pretty discouraged.

So my new plan? Howard Coleman will be rebuilding my motor. I trust the guy 100%, he's been a major mentor to me and has accommodated me fully and backed me fully since day 1. I havn't paid him to be my friend, it has just lead to that point. So I would like to thank Him personally for all he has done in helping me get to this point, and helping me move past this point. I would also Like to thank Elliot From turblown And Andy Wyatt (Owner of Adaptronic ecus) for all the advice, and excellent deals They've given me as well as trouble shooting and tips.

But I'm going LS1

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

SIKE!! suckers... I've been through too much BS to give up on the rotary now.

Motor: Coleman Built 13B
Turbo: Turblown TDX61R
ECU: Adaptronic Fd Select
Upgraded Injectors: I.D. 1000's (previously i.d.850's)
Heart? Inspired by my Father and his love for automotive, and my love for rotary power.


Updates soon. See you all at Sevenstock
parting pic... we'll be back

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

That really sucks. 2 motors in 2 months

I dont understand why the tuner would tune, or how the car would run well if the leading coil is not firing.

For your power goals (low 400whp) why not just get a mazda reman and call it a day? You dont want to rev the motor high to warrant balancing and don't really need porting as you can just run a psi or 2 more to make up for it. Good choice on the turblown turbo as well. What A/R will you be using?


Btw, for a professionally built motor 100PSI compression seems low. Is that because of the 1pc seal? And why 3mm seals?

mannykiller

iTrader: (93)

I don't understand it either...and Like I said.... I immediately said I should stop and take the car home. That was my mistake to go on...I should've just trusted my gut and said "No" i'm going to waite.

A mazda reman is still pretty pricey. Initially I wanted to make more power/rev out higher. I purchased the balanced rotating assembly because I needed New rotors/e-shaft etc anyways and it was damn near what I was going to spend on the internals anyways...so for 300 bucks more I would have a balanced rotating assembly and a set of atkins 3mm seals..which came with the rotating assembly. Sold the seals and made a little money back since I was going with the NRS seals. The rotors were already cut for 3mm which is why I stuck with the mm. And you are correct. The low compression was due to the 1 pc 3mm Seals. Howard is rebuilding the motor, I'll leave it up to him what he wants to use but believe me... I would've Opted not to destroy a 7500 Dollar keg over a 2k OEM short block. Everything extra done to the motor was to try and add longevity to this track/drift motor. Having a balanced rotating assembly could only help longevity, Porting the motor was done to minimize stress on the motor.... so I could make more power with less boost pressure...which would also aide in longevity (in theory). Everything was done for a specific reason. But it didn't work out because we never got there. So this time around I'll be more careful by following my gut instinct.

A/R? I know Elliot wants me to use the 1.15...or the 1.00..but I truly feel like I'd benefit the most and have exactly the power-band I want with a .84 ...I know everyone is against that..but it would really shift everything to the left..and yahh... I'd lose top end.. But I don't need that....and on the track especially in drift you need that low and mid. Gotta try my best to keep up with these slap happy V-8 bastards haha.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

You 100% need a different tuner. I can't imagine how upset you must be right now.


When you're back up and running PM me and I will help get one of the best guys from the north east out there. I'm sure he'll want a vacation anyways.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Very sorry to hear about the unfortunate events, but glad to see it hasn't discouraged you too much. I hate to make assumptions without the full story, but even after your first post I sort of had the impression that your "tuner" wasn't up to snuff, so to speak. Then after your second post it seems obvious. Are you still going to use him to tune your next one?

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Im speechless. Tuner helping pay for some of this? Lot of terrible decisions but you don't need the lecture.

mymmeryloss

iTrader: (13)

Goddamn that looks amazing!


Sorry to hear about all the trouble u r having

mymmeryloss

iTrader: (13)

Oh and nice to see some fellow metal heads around here!

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

who is this tuner?
does he know anything about rotaries, or ignition/boost in general?

also, i have been dealing with tuning and EMSs for about a decade now, and i always tell people that if they're going to hire a tuner, that tuner needs to be an expert with that type of engine AND the EMS on the car. i have some younger guys around here who have hondata, AEMv1, powerFC, hydra, etc. wanting me to tune their car. i say "i tune rotaries with haltechs," and i don't act like i'm an expert with AEM, hydra, hondata, etc. and know all the intricacies with every EMS.
did this tuner have any experience with adaptronic?

also, i support the howard coleman go-to. i used to talked to kahren daily about rotaries/tuning/etc. and we actually became pretty good friends (same with BDC before that). people underestimate having a mentor who really knows their **** with cars. if you ever are at a point when you think there's not much left to learn, get a mentor or buddy who knows their ****.

good luck.