Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
#1626
Wastegate John
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Long Island NY 11746
Posts: 2,979
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I would get it tuned before you spend money on other stuff because, personally, I think the UIM was not the problem.
I hear you on the hood latch install....... took me like 6 hours to install them in a friends FD in the OEM hood.
I hear you on the hood latch install....... took me like 6 hours to install them in a friends FD in the OEM hood.
#1628
Get some
iTrader: (2)
Yea I think swapping the UIM and stuff for no reason was short sighted. To our knowledge you didn't really spend any time trying to figure it out. People put too much weight on the pieces of the system that shift the power curve and attribute them to adding or subtracting huuuuge amounts of power. That UIM sure as **** wasn't robbing 100whp.
#1629
just dont care.
iTrader: (6)
i agree with these guys.
and this may sound totally stupid, so forgive me if you covered it, but did you check to make sure the throttle butterflies were opening fully? like actually watch them to make sure they're going from full shut to full open? a lot of people get bit in the *** by this. they calibrate the throttle quickly in their EMS and don't bother to make sure their super custom 1472mm throttle body is actually opening when they floor the throttle.
i'm assuming your tuner is not a n00b, and that you have some sort of airflow issue.
if you have good compression (why not do a quick comp test, even with a piston compression tester?) and smooth tuning that's anywhere in the ballpark, it's going to make power. the only thing left is the airflow. something could be blocking the airflow, or the turbo could be broken (seems unlikely). throttle body is a good place to inspect.
and this may sound totally stupid, so forgive me if you covered it, but did you check to make sure the throttle butterflies were opening fully? like actually watch them to make sure they're going from full shut to full open? a lot of people get bit in the *** by this. they calibrate the throttle quickly in their EMS and don't bother to make sure their super custom 1472mm throttle body is actually opening when they floor the throttle.
i'm assuming your tuner is not a n00b, and that you have some sort of airflow issue.
if you have good compression (why not do a quick comp test, even with a piston compression tester?) and smooth tuning that's anywhere in the ballpark, it's going to make power. the only thing left is the airflow. something could be blocking the airflow, or the turbo could be broken (seems unlikely). throttle body is a good place to inspect.
#1632
Well guys. I understand what you guys are saying, but you gotta remember, just because I don't post something doesn't mean i didn't check it etc. I set the throttle body linkage and throttle cable myself. I checked it multiple times and it opened up completely flat. The dyno plot clearly shows the restriction after 6300ish. Also, the car wasn't 100whp down on power..it was about 60whp short. I had a problem with electrical power/battery dying etc and since pulling everything out..I re-did/cleaned up about 6 grounds in the body harness hoping to fix the root of the battery problem. I ended up replacing the battery because it was obviously finicky....and so far the car cranks much quicker now. I'll know within a few more days if it starts to die again. I can do a compression check, but add Nelson said.. something was holding it back. I have a piston compression tool at the house I can use, and I'll do the check when I get a few min. There's is no rag in the intercooler. And the only real thing that could have been hindering the flow is the intercooler or uim. I talked to a good friend of mine and he said change the uim. I'm not particularly worried about the visuals much as performance so I chose to change it. But already the car feels more responsive and "crisp." I don't really have endless amounts of cash to be throwing at r & d and an easy fix was changing the uim. I said I would dyno with the uim...and I did. But we'll find out soon enough..after this next dyno session if it was the problem or not. If so...then awesome. If not..then I'll rule out a problem. Now the I/c is a cheapy unit but it looks just like my old greddy unit inside..so it's staying for the time being. We'll find out soon enough. Stay tuned!
#1634
^ hmmm well.....that actually never crossed my mind. Didn't feel like slip in any way.. and Pretty sure the load would leave some pretty distinct marks on the dyno graph. Good thinking though! Also...turns out I was measuring my Discs wrong with my Micrometer. Rookie mistake..but the Discs I replaced are still useable, so now I have spares.
#1636
Nice Little cruise vid.. This video was taken on private roads =-)
or this one
20130908_134757_zps0479c842.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
or this one
20130908_134757_zps0479c842.mp4 Video by mannykiller | Photobucket
#1638
Ram air effect is created when the cross sectional area of an flow regime increases after the inlet - this increases the mass flow rate across the inlet. As such, you can create this by simply fabricating the inlet to the cooler so that the cross sectional area of the opening is smaller than the area behind the opening. This creates a positive pressure in the enclosed section by virtue of the venturi effect. It is in this application that a real benefit from the venturi effect is actually possible. Ram air is more commonly used for engine air intake - has been stock on all sportsbikes for many years just to mention one - but there is no reason it can't be employed for other purposes. People may scoff at it, but five bucks says those same people would happily fit a rear diffuser to their car which works by exactly the same principle. Most benefit from ram air is at higher speeds but despite that the difference is still measurable - and all it takes is a very simple, minor modification that utilises basic fluid dynamics.