Mannykillers/ AAPARKAH Street/time Attack/Drift Build (heavy Pics) #Thisisthewolf
#627
Thanks so much guys!
Got my manifold material in. Still looking for a Exhaust manifold flange though.. Pics coming soon.
Put my Alternator on the motor, along with my nice low mileage power steering unit and put in my OEM new Thermostate, and did my Coolant filler neck as well. Also....about 2 years ago I baught a new Water Temp sensor from Mr Fritz Flynn.. so i pulled out my old one and put it in.
more pics to come
Got my manifold material in. Still looking for a Exhaust manifold flange though.. Pics coming soon.
Put my Alternator on the motor, along with my nice low mileage power steering unit and put in my OEM new Thermostate, and did my Coolant filler neck as well. Also....about 2 years ago I baught a new Water Temp sensor from Mr Fritz Flynn.. so i pulled out my old one and put it in.
more pics to come
#628
I
iTrader: (3)
^ You know what I might take you up on that, but I might have a griffin rad in a larger diameter from another friend. i'll keep you updated, thanks phil. You know i've done a lot of research on this manifold and the runner diameter and length for forced induction applications and it looks like this manifold is right up my ally. Longer intake runners will benefit low end Torque and the larger plenum is helpful for response. I'm looking for a mid range monster with as much power under the curve as possible. Peak HP is not my priority and I really could care less with impressing anyone with WHP numbers. I just want to be happy with my power-band. Achieving it may be a little bit of a process and may take a few tunes. but i feel like i'll get to where I want to be eventually. Heres one more pic of the set:
Thanks so much guys!
Got my manifold material in. Still looking for a Exhaust manifold flange though.. Pics coming soon.
Put my Alternator on the motor, along with my nice low mileage power steering unit and put in my OEM new Thermostate, and did my Coolant filler neck as well. Also....about 2 years ago I baught a new Water Temp sensor from Mr Fritz Flynn.. so i pulled out my old one and put it in.
more pics to come
Got my manifold material in. Still looking for a Exhaust manifold flange though.. Pics coming soon.
Put my Alternator on the motor, along with my nice low mileage power steering unit and put in my OEM new Thermostate, and did my Coolant filler neck as well. Also....about 2 years ago I baught a new Water Temp sensor from Mr Fritz Flynn.. so i pulled out my old one and put it in.
more pics to come
correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm quite, quite certain that when installing a thermostat, the little "jiggler" I'll call it, should be to right at 12 o-clock... it is to aid with bubble bleeding maybe, I dunno, some crap like that...
Good build so far, should be a really fun car on the track...
J.
#636
Little bit of an update. got under the car today for a little bit and was able to switch out the old broken worthless seal out for the nice new one. No more leaks!!
old vs new
came out pretty easily but this one was just trashed...
Nice and new..
AND pulled the coolant filler neck and fixed my T-Stat positioning to where the little hole and jingly thing is up at 12 O'clock
old vs new
came out pretty easily but this one was just trashed...
Nice and new..
AND pulled the coolant filler neck and fixed my T-Stat positioning to where the little hole and jingly thing is up at 12 O'clock
Last edited by mannykiller; 02-26-12 at 08:11 PM.
#639
Bighaks and Mgsk505.....Hey thanks a lot guys!! You know this thread has become almost as much fun as my actual build....maybe a little more so because it tends to cost a hell of a lot less and makes work go by a hell of a lot faster haha.
Other updates..: Last night I couldn't sleep..so I went into the garage and ended up looking over the entire car, and decided to start checking all of my suspension bolts to make sure they are all tq'd to spec. Good thing I did...because I found things I had started and not finished. My driveshaft to Diff bolts probly would've just sheared off with the amount of play they had in them because i had just finger tightened them. There were 4 bolts missing from the OEM braces that go from the back quarter panel area to the transmission tunnel (furthest part at the end of the trans tunnel for bracing), and Also reminded myself that I'm missing one castle nut for my passenger side front endlink. And lastly... I looked everywhere for my alternator "Pivot" bolt. I gave it to Jaime a while back because I thought I had 2... seems as if I don't. haha..so i'll be sourcing one of those as well. And LASTLY... I need to go through my front and rear subframe suspension arms alignment because they are ALLL out of wack. I'd probly look like a puppy learning to run all sideways with how I had it. So i'll have to get under there today after work and straighten everything up. Or at least make them all uniform. I'm also going to set up my front coilovers exactly like I did with my rears so that they are both the exact same height. Lots of work to do!!
Other updates..: Last night I couldn't sleep..so I went into the garage and ended up looking over the entire car, and decided to start checking all of my suspension bolts to make sure they are all tq'd to spec. Good thing I did...because I found things I had started and not finished. My driveshaft to Diff bolts probly would've just sheared off with the amount of play they had in them because i had just finger tightened them. There were 4 bolts missing from the OEM braces that go from the back quarter panel area to the transmission tunnel (furthest part at the end of the trans tunnel for bracing), and Also reminded myself that I'm missing one castle nut for my passenger side front endlink. And lastly... I looked everywhere for my alternator "Pivot" bolt. I gave it to Jaime a while back because I thought I had 2... seems as if I don't. haha..so i'll be sourcing one of those as well. And LASTLY... I need to go through my front and rear subframe suspension arms alignment because they are ALLL out of wack. I'd probly look like a puppy learning to run all sideways with how I had it. So i'll have to get under there today after work and straighten everything up. Or at least make them all uniform. I'm also going to set up my front coilovers exactly like I did with my rears so that they are both the exact same height. Lots of work to do!!
#641
^ lol... can't complain about that... seems as we may be fraternal though... as I seem to be missing a supercharger... lol!! i'm going to do the same thing to my fuel set up tonight, just to make sure all i need to do is install my rails and push lock hose. fuel leaks are just all around bad news.
#644
so yesterday I was in the garage in a t-shirt and shorts. It was beautiful out. A couple hours ago it was snowing. Needless to say .....i wasn't in the garage much this evening. But I was looking at the virtual works UIM again...and noticed how the runners slope downward and the plenum itself sits prettly low.. So... another test fit confirmed my doubts that it won't allow me to run the Power steering in the stock location. My only choice really is to have a relocation bracket made because the plenum flange is hitting and is angled slightly downward, which would make it impossible to even put the Accufab Throttle body on.
In other news... I shaved the Fuel Pressure Regulator bracket down on the uim because It was made for a different brand FPR so the half moon shaped opening just wouldn't allow the aeromotive fpr mounting bolt holes to line up. Used my grinder to make the moon shape bigger and its close...but it definitely fits just fine. I'm a little worried about it sitting close to the runner because of heat..but with how far the runner sits from the actual short housings/irons and the fact that i'll be running water/meth injection really doesn't have me worried about heat soak too much. Plus... i can always put some gold heat reflective on the back of the fpr if need be to help a little.
and how close it is:
Also used my dremel to clean up the thread burl inside the uim, and used some steel wool and green scotchbrite to clean up the inside of the plenum. It had some pretty rough tid bits and little alum splinters inside I wanted to make sure didn't find their way into my motor one day. So cleaned it all up..which took a lot longer than I thought, but i'm confident it is motor worthy now
In other news... I shaved the Fuel Pressure Regulator bracket down on the uim because It was made for a different brand FPR so the half moon shaped opening just wouldn't allow the aeromotive fpr mounting bolt holes to line up. Used my grinder to make the moon shape bigger and its close...but it definitely fits just fine. I'm a little worried about it sitting close to the runner because of heat..but with how far the runner sits from the actual short housings/irons and the fact that i'll be running water/meth injection really doesn't have me worried about heat soak too much. Plus... i can always put some gold heat reflective on the back of the fpr if need be to help a little.
and how close it is:
Also used my dremel to clean up the thread burl inside the uim, and used some steel wool and green scotchbrite to clean up the inside of the plenum. It had some pretty rough tid bits and little alum splinters inside I wanted to make sure didn't find their way into my motor one day. So cleaned it all up..which took a lot longer than I thought, but i'm confident it is motor worthy now
#645
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
If you have a gasket that goes between the UIM and LIM, take it to a water jet place and have them cut you a spacer. That's what I did to space my LIM out from the engine so my fuel rails wouldn't press against each other. Works like a champ.
#648
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
He used aluminum. Yeah I use a gasket on each side now. I took those measurements into consideration when I told him how thick I needed it. Turned out perfect. I tried to use a phenolic gasket but it wasn't cut right and wasn't covering one of the holes it needed to cover and I had an exhaust leak.
No problem. It's very easy, and once he has the pattern he can crank them out for about $5 each, in case anyone else needs one. I thought of having him do some block off plates for the top of the LIM for when people take off the UIM, but I figured most people would just use tape for much cheaper lol. I'm probably still going to get one though. Good call on waiting though, no sense in doing it right now lol.
No problem. It's very easy, and once he has the pattern he can crank them out for about $5 each, in case anyone else needs one. I thought of having him do some block off plates for the top of the LIM for when people take off the UIM, but I figured most people would just use tape for much cheaper lol. I'm probably still going to get one though. Good call on waiting though, no sense in doing it right now lol.
#649
Big update:
Received my rywire mil-spec engine harness in today. He has all materials and the template completed so he will be selling these harnesses and will have them pre made and in stock soon!!! All i can say is i'm blown away with the quality and i'll be having him do any harness on any car I build from now till I give up the sport!!
Ry-wire Harness:
Got under the car and didn't get to setting all my alignment the same in the front of the car but the rear is finished. Got my clutch slave cylinder and line installed
Received my rywire mil-spec engine harness in today. He has all materials and the template completed so he will be selling these harnesses and will have them pre made and in stock soon!!! All i can say is i'm blown away with the quality and i'll be having him do any harness on any car I build from now till I give up the sport!!
Ry-wire Harness:
Got under the car and didn't get to setting all my alignment the same in the front of the car but the rear is finished. Got my clutch slave cylinder and line installed
#650
Also, picked up a damn nice engine hoist from my buddy jeff. He's a supra and celica guy and actually has a twin charged celica and a 700hp drag supra in his car currently. But I need the motor in the car so we can start fab work and for mocking purposes. Therefore It was time it went it. It really is a 2 man job...But since my buddy evan helped me the first time and I pay attention pretty alertly.. I decided I'd give it a whirl and just take my time. Everyone says it's easier to install the motor to the trans out of the car and then drop both of them in as one unit.. But I figured I'd try to perfect my method this way first and if I pull the motor and trans for paint... then i'll do it together. I used a floor jack to lift the transmission and angle it up so aligning the motor was really quite simple. The whole process took me about 2 hours, 30-45 min of that was spent on looking for my transmission to engine bolts... still havn't found all of them either. These might be the only bolts i've misplaced during the build... anyways..on to pics!!
IRP motor mounts and custom length bolts to accommodate the garfinkle Oil pan brace courtesy of Howard Coleman Precision Rotaries.
Installed the mounts and got everything ready for install. A useful tip... I used duct tape on the bottom of the engine sub-frame to hold the bolts in while I aligned the motor and got it into position. Left some play so I could maneuver it whatever which way.. it really simplified things for me. Also used my Torque wrench on my main pulley to turn the motor when I was aligning the input shaft. Worked like a charm.. slid right in ;-) haha. On to pics:
and yes.... I realize I put my motor mount bolts on upside-down... just had them sitting there for a little bit
I left off needing to pull the clutch fork to hear the "click" that we all love at the end of the install. I'll do that after work today. Can't wait to get this thing on the ground again and over to the fab shop for my turbo manifold. Just waiting for the exhaust flange from sean at A-spec and we can start mocking Pushing for my deadline mid may!!
Also...I told myself almost a year ago I would be getting a Cobra racer pro as my drivers side seat... I looked up info on them again and fell in love..again! So i'll be ordering one in the next few weeks here. Anyone know of any promo's going on through any venders here on the forum?
Cobra Racer Pro:
IRP motor mounts and custom length bolts to accommodate the garfinkle Oil pan brace courtesy of Howard Coleman Precision Rotaries.
Installed the mounts and got everything ready for install. A useful tip... I used duct tape on the bottom of the engine sub-frame to hold the bolts in while I aligned the motor and got it into position. Left some play so I could maneuver it whatever which way.. it really simplified things for me. Also used my Torque wrench on my main pulley to turn the motor when I was aligning the input shaft. Worked like a charm.. slid right in ;-) haha. On to pics:
and yes.... I realize I put my motor mount bolts on upside-down... just had them sitting there for a little bit
I left off needing to pull the clutch fork to hear the "click" that we all love at the end of the install. I'll do that after work today. Can't wait to get this thing on the ground again and over to the fab shop for my turbo manifold. Just waiting for the exhaust flange from sean at A-spec and we can start mocking Pushing for my deadline mid may!!
Also...I told myself almost a year ago I would be getting a Cobra racer pro as my drivers side seat... I looked up info on them again and fell in love..again! So i'll be ordering one in the next few weeks here. Anyone know of any promo's going on through any venders here on the forum?
Cobra Racer Pro: