The JBFD3S build thread. Moving from Form to Function.
#127
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 605
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From: Willow Springs, CA
Finally the updates.
I got the car running and was slowly trying to make it relatively driveable. I came across the damage on the quarter panel first and didn't care right away since I still wanted to get the car running right.
Over that time, I got a set of Speedhut gauges, FFE crank trigger, and a few other odds and ends. (nothing worth noting). The gauges I bought were boost, oil temp, water temp, and oil pressure. I have had friends ask me why I was going with analog gauges for a primarily track driven car. While I understand that having digital readouts to easily glance at to monitor things, I still prefer the classic look of analog gauges...especially since they almost match the stock gauges perfectly. That being said, I will position the gauges to where the needles are pointing straight up at normal ranges. That way I can glance at them and know that everything is normal.
On to the rest.
I was trying to hunt down an electrical problem that was extremely frustrating, so I decided to switch it up a little bit and drive the car down to my local alignment shop. That's when I realized the car was damaged more than I thought.
Now I'm back at square one. With two incomplete cars in my garage. lol.
The new shell has had the entire electrical system simplified and there are no more fuses or relays in the engine bay. I'm not too excited about how the previous owner decided to relocate the engine harness, but it won't be hard to make it the way I want it.
I spent most of yesterday cleaning the inside of the new car since it's been sitting for 3 years. It's a tight squeeze in my garage right now and it's limiting what I can do. So, I will be buying a big tarp and some bungee cords to be able to keep one of the cars outside while I'm working on the other. I'll do my best to take more pictures and keep this thread more up to date.
I got the car running and was slowly trying to make it relatively driveable. I came across the damage on the quarter panel first and didn't care right away since I still wanted to get the car running right.
Over that time, I got a set of Speedhut gauges, FFE crank trigger, and a few other odds and ends. (nothing worth noting). The gauges I bought were boost, oil temp, water temp, and oil pressure. I have had friends ask me why I was going with analog gauges for a primarily track driven car. While I understand that having digital readouts to easily glance at to monitor things, I still prefer the classic look of analog gauges...especially since they almost match the stock gauges perfectly. That being said, I will position the gauges to where the needles are pointing straight up at normal ranges. That way I can glance at them and know that everything is normal.
On to the rest.
I was trying to hunt down an electrical problem that was extremely frustrating, so I decided to switch it up a little bit and drive the car down to my local alignment shop. That's when I realized the car was damaged more than I thought.
Now I'm back at square one. With two incomplete cars in my garage. lol.
The new shell has had the entire electrical system simplified and there are no more fuses or relays in the engine bay. I'm not too excited about how the previous owner decided to relocate the engine harness, but it won't be hard to make it the way I want it.
I spent most of yesterday cleaning the inside of the new car since it's been sitting for 3 years. It's a tight squeeze in my garage right now and it's limiting what I can do. So, I will be buying a big tarp and some bungee cords to be able to keep one of the cars outside while I'm working on the other. I'll do my best to take more pictures and keep this thread more up to date.
#133
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Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 605
Likes: 2
From: Willow Springs, CA
Thanks guys. I haven't been able to get much done due to the holidays and I managed to get pretty bad food poisoning. But, I picked up a set of Xcessive motor mounts. They're for an FC but should still work. The FC mounts are a little shorter and it should compensate for the added material from my banzai oil pan brace.
I also got an HKS cast turbo manifold. I liked the Doc-Race manifold, but I like the compactness of the HKS. With that, I picked up a replica HKS 50mm wastegate from ebay. I'll rebuild it with HKS internals and use it for the time being. Until I either find a used authentic HKS 50mm or I suck it up and use the banzai adapter with a nice TiAL or Turbosmart WG.
I also installed my FFE Trigger Wheel that's been sitting around for months. lol
I also got an HKS cast turbo manifold. I liked the Doc-Race manifold, but I like the compactness of the HKS. With that, I picked up a replica HKS 50mm wastegate from ebay. I'll rebuild it with HKS internals and use it for the time being. Until I either find a used authentic HKS 50mm or I suck it up and use the banzai adapter with a nice TiAL or Turbosmart WG.
I also installed my FFE Trigger Wheel that's been sitting around for months. lol
#138
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (13)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 605
Likes: 2
From: Willow Springs, CA
Small update.
I continued stripping down the old shell and I'm almost ready to start moving everything to the new shell.
On a bad note, a stupid cat got in to the new shell and pissed all over the inside. Thankfully, the interior is completely stripped and it shouldn't be too difficult to get the smell out.
Anyone have any good tips on getting cat **** smell out of cars? lol
I continued stripping down the old shell and I'm almost ready to start moving everything to the new shell.
On a bad note, a stupid cat got in to the new shell and pissed all over the inside. Thankfully, the interior is completely stripped and it shouldn't be too difficult to get the smell out.
Anyone have any good tips on getting cat **** smell out of cars? lol
#140
Save yourself the headache and get a different WG... I had that exact model and rebuilt it with HKS diaphragm to no avail. It lasted about 600km and one track day before sticking. I pulled it apart, put it back on and again it lasted about 500km before the cast aluminum spring perch attached to the valve split completely open.
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