also replaced my rear springs with some 10k (replacing the 12k rear springs. eek!)

 

i discovered a slight lean spot while out datalogging about a week ago, and decided it was time to upgrade my primary injectors, as the 550cc primaries were going static at about 6000rpms...

Fuel Injector Connection 2200cc injectors (flow matched, but not latency matched like the Injector Dynamics stuff is. should be fine for the secondaries)






moved my $$$ expensive ID2000 injectors down into the primary spots and installed the FIC 2200cc injectors in the secondary spots.




don't want any iron rubbing through my nice injector wiring, of course




i was late completing all this work today and ended up missing my dyno appointment, so i am trying to get back in ASAP.

i removed 75% fuel (pre-staging) after installing the injectors and re-entering the injector lag in the haltech, and the AFRs ended up being pretty damn close to where they were on the 550s. i also moved the staging bar up to 2psi (it was previously at 2 inHg of vacuum because the primaries are so small). i haven't ventured far into the boost area of the map yet. the dyno time should help out significantly.

 

just got back from the dyno. made 340whp@12psi on the dyno dynamics heartbreaker.

here's a link to the video. (i'll post the graph later)

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...48002301193037

 

got the car aligned. reflector alignment machine not quite as accurate as the laser systems, but should be just fine.


new alignment vs previous owner stancebro alignment


found this bad boy stuck in my tire. we were able to plug/patch it.




just about ready for Road Atlanta. i should be significantly faster than last time

 

also, i purchased the most important mod you can purchase for any rx7: AN ADDITIONAL CAR!



99 sc300, very good shape, 190k miles, garaged its whole life. $3000.

 

That is one fine DD you got there

 

Wow, that's a lot of car for 3k!! Nice find, and very clean install on your injectors

 

so i drove the FD daily for about 4 months before getting my SC300 and upgrading the FD to weekend/track status.

well today i had some extra time and decided i would clean up the FD. i started with removing about 1 month worth of DD-level Hawk HT-10 brake dust. i have never seen worse brake dust/grime buildup like i have on this car. the brake dust has gotten wet a few times and turned into a very hard, dense layer of grime that is nearly impossible to remove.

granted, the stock wheels, which i purchased from a forum member on here, weren't in the best shape, and 3 of the 4 wheels were missing most of the clear coat, so they are just raw aluminum, which apparently makes the removal of brake dust nearly impossible.

if you use these hawk pads, i would recommend replacing them (with OE replacements) immediately after your track event. they did perform very well at my track event, but they have dominated my stock wheels.

 

awesome build man! and a fellow tennessian!

 

Nice build buddy!

Do you know what caused your oil cooler mounts to get jacked up like that?

I don't know how you did it, I could never DD my FDs....I'd feel guilty, lol

 

the white etching is from some hardcore chrome cleaner i was using to attempt to remove the grime.

 

You can come replace some rear end bushings when you get the itch. Thanks brah.

 

me and you can trade cars whenever you want.

word.

 

Very Very Nice man.

 

Beautiful FD, i look forward to the day when i will be able to take apart the car and put it back together and work on it myself, much respect and good luck with the 7

 

Solid build going on here, good work.

How many miles did it take for the AtomicRex Pillow ***** to fail? I put these on my car so not you have me concerned.

How difficult was it to swap the springs on the Stance coilovers? I have the same set and am thinking about changing the 12k springs out for something more street friendly.

 

THANKS

i don't know about the mileage, but they need the rubber dust boots installed.

the springs were not hard to change. and yes, unless you're doing track events on slicks, you absolutely do not need 12k springs front and rear. i swapped out my rears with 10k. stance recommended i NOT use lower than 10k with these coilovers though because they are valved too aggressively for anything lower than 10k. knowing i wanted to have a softer rate in the rear, i installed the 10k on the rear and kept the 12k on the front.

 

I installed the stock rubber dust boots on them when I installed them so I guess Ill just wait and see how long they last. I thought the valving in the coils would be a limiting factor in how low I can drop the spring rates. I guess I will contact Stance when the time comes and find out exactly what I can do.

Thanks,
Ryan

 

turk, if you have GR+PRO like i have, they will recommend you don't go below 10k. the newer "super sport" style may have different valving. i'm not sure.

i was not happy about this, as i wanted to run 10k F and 8k R, but oh well.

 

finally got my dyno graphs. this was about 11.5psi according to my haltech.

 

i am currently getting a vband replaced at the bottom of my downpipe, and i just purchased new front brake calipers, rotors, and Carbotech XP-10 pads for the front of the car, some ATE super blue fluid, and a speed bleeder

i'll post an update wednesday when i do lots of work to this thing


stuff left to do before departing FRIDAY for Road Atlanta saturday:

have exhaust vband replaced (current at the fab shop for this) and pick up the car
install new front brakes (calipers, rotors, pads)
flush brake fluid with super blue
double-check the tuning on the street
reinstall LCD screen to show haltech gauges

 

Good luck at road Atlanta. Take some pictures!!

 

Boost curve and ramp rate used?

 

elliot,

i'm not sure what you mean by "ramp rate used," but i can elaborate to possibly answer your question; i was doing the "power pulls" on the dyno dynamics after doing the cell-by-cell wheel speed lock tuning and getting my map nicely tuned. the power pulls require you lock the wheel speed at a certain RPM (2500rpm / 2psi in my case) and load the engine up, then you release the dyno brake to begin the pull, and hit the brake again at the top of the pull to stop the run. i'm not sure why, but i did not have to do this manual lock/unlock thing on a different local dyno dynamics that i tuned an FC on 2 weeks ago (which was running the DOS software and the wired controller). this dyno had the wireless touchscreen hand controller. i liked the DOS version with the wired controller a little better.

the cell-by-cell tuning on these dyno dynamics dynos makes drivability tuning a breeze. i basically scratch-mapped my fuel map in about 30 minutes and spent the other two hours doing full throttle fine tuning (and still didn't get the 4000 and 6250 ranges as good as i wanted them).

i logged a boost graph on the first pull before doing any tuning, and i had 11.5psi by about 4200rpms, then spiked a little and and held flat (you can see the little bump it torque at 4500rpms on the graph).
4200 is a "laggy" number for this .84 housing, but this was starting with ~100*F intake temps. it will hit the same boost at under 4000 in 4th gear on the street when the IATs are 20-30 degrees cooler. i also have not tinkered with the duty on the boost control map, which could be "sharpened" slightly, but it's not really an issue.

also, this is on the Turblown dual wastegate T4 manifold, for anyone wondering.


edit: you wanna donate one of your TD61Rs for comparison? i'll gladly pay for the dyno pulls on both turbos

 

oh i will. i have a nice little Sony Actioncam that does 1080p at 60fps, so i will also be getting some good video. i will take video from a helmet mount and my rear strut bar mount, and i'll be overlaying gps, lap timer, and haltech engine datalog to overlay on the video. i am excited.