Update: Aside from going to KDR this Thursday to set up the PFC, I/C, and Fuel Pump I am ordering a set of Hawk HP+ pads and Goodridge SS Brakelines and I'm going to flush with ATE Blue Fluid. Also, probably going to pick up some blank oe replacement rotors from a local parts store and go with those (or just resurface what is on there). My head is still spinning over the wheel/tire situation. I will figure it out soon tho.

 

please do not put lambo doors on it.

I never thought I'd have to post this, but since someone with bad taste made a thread about lambo doors, I figured i would rather be safe then sorry!

 

Good thought, but you don't have to worry about that with me.

 

You don't need SS brake lines, i think some of our members that race would agree.
Check your DOT number on the brake fluid, our brakes can only take DOT3?, DOT4? I don't recall off hand, so you'll need to look it up.
If you're paranoid about your boost level (as I am) I'd recommend the GReddy Pressure Relief Valve. Put it on your intake piping/intercooler/elbow and set it to 1psi more than you're running. If for whatever reason you get a spike it will purge the extra boost. Should cost you about $120 plus installation.


Racing lab has them for $99.00

 

Keep us posted after you get the car back from Dave. Great guy.
I am hoping to see him soon.
Justin

 

thats look good...up up

 

I ran a few searches and could find anything saying SS lines are unnecessary. Can you please provide a link or explanation why OE lines are sufficient?

 

I can't find them either, I think it was kento or one of the other racers. Seems to me it was something about leaks or shearing.

Are you unhappy about pedal feel or response now?

 

Can't tell yet. Tires suck too much.

 

I think you should get new tires before you shell out more money on your brakes. I was amazed how fast my car stopped when i first bought it. Now I, like you, need new tires.

 

Update: So my car has been at KDR for the last month because the car had a slightly nicked apex seal on the rear rotor. Unfortunately, I found this out when I brought Dave the car for a tune. Compression on the front was 100-100-100, and the rear was 100-50-50. I am a little upset that I was too dumb to compression test the rotors before buying the car. Overall I am still happy with the purchase. I think I could have easily recouped the price I paid for the car without repairing the rear seal but in the end I wanted to keep it. I believe this car is in good shape, all else considered, and is worth keeping long term.

The bad seal explains why I had the loss of power in boost above 5500 rpm. I spoke to Dave today now that he had the whole thing disassembled. The housing is in good shape and as expected one of the 2mm seals on the rear rotor was nicked. He is putting in a new apex seal, clutch disc (why not since there is no additional labor required), ARC SMIC, PFC, Supra TT Fuel Pump, and tuning the set up to ~12PSI. He is uninstalling the Apexi AVC-R. I can't wait for the car back so I can set up the suspension and brakes for autox. This is all costing a fair amount, but it's a small price to pay for a good FD.

Also, I picked up a 2nd set of OEM FD wheels for R-compounds. Most likely Toyo R888s. Not sure what size yet.

-Jake

PS: The 7 is officially a money pit.

 

Nice project!

 

Oh Yeah, and Dave told me the car had an Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit installed I am just replacing the worn disc and keeping the heavier duty pressure plate.

 

I got the car back a couple of days ago. Dave took excellent care of it! Anything he saw that was off or old or worn he replaced (all little things). He said the turbos, housings and rotors all look great. In fact Mazda used a NEW rotor and a NEW housing for the front half of the motor (very rare for a Mazda reman supposedly). I need 400 more miles of break in before I can go back for the dyno tune.

Two remaining problems
1. The car likes to take a while to start up. 5-10 seconds 1-2x for turning it over before she starts up.
2. It likes to stall from idle. Occasionally idle will get rough and dip below 500rpm. On a rarer occasion it dips to 0.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

Break in is such a TEASE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

First Wash and Wax.

 

Dynoed 293 whp and 282 ftlbs (I think) before the injectors started to fail and stick open. Car is running way rich now and KDR says I definitely need new injectors to get tuned properly so I ordered 4 all new 850CC nippondenso injectors. I am going back to get them installed and get a retuned as soon as they arrive. Also installing SS brake lines, HP+ pads, ATE Fluid, Widefoot Pedal, Racing Beat Front Sway Bar, Widefoot Heavy Duty Sway Bar Mounts, and Mazdatrix Endlinks.

 

I am really enjoying your project thread as my fd is now getting the same basic mods as yours. I started off getting a coated dp and AST and I said, that's it. Then I got a RB catback and the cheap bastrd intake with a Pfc. That's all I need... Then came a diff brace. Next I have an M2 intake with a PFS smic, walbro pump, Koyo rad. and an ACT clutch. I am obsessed now. These will be installed in the next two months with a good tune for 10 and 12 psi boost. I don't want a midpipe any time soon. But I am thinking about injectors down the road. Sound familiar? I look forward to reading about your power with the final tune. Good Luck!

 

Thank you thank you.

I forgot to mention I replaced the 100K+ OEM midpipe/cat (that had a hacked heatshield and a cracked cat substrate) with a 50K used OEM unit with heat shields still intact. The center console doesn't burn my leg anymore

Good luck with your build. Sounds nice. I'll be sure to post the dyno chart results once the injectors go in and Dave tunes it.

 

To All:

Will my proposed new setup (16PSI tune on 4 850cc injectors) be safe considering my setup and relatively small SMIC?

 

To be installed:
4 x 850cc Injectors
Water Injection Kit
Mazdatrix Endlinks
Racing Beat Front Sway Bar
Widefoot Sway Bar Mounts
Widefoot pedal extender
Hawk HP+ Pads
Technifit SS Brakelines

To be determined:
Coilovers
Wheels / Tires
Steering Wheel (yes or no)
Racing Seat

 

Ordered Toyo R888 245/45/16 for mixed street/autox use. They are going to be mounted to OEM FD wheels.

 

nice project, its good to see some more fds in ny

 

From what i have read, 16 PSI would be pushing the turbo's pretty hard. That being said, some people run them higher, for instance when i bought my car the guy was hitting 18+ on the stock fuel system (thats why i had to rebuild)

personally when i'm done breaking in i think im goign to run about 14 psi.

edit: but with 4x850cc injectors, and water injection i think you will not detonate

 

Yeah. After a little bit of research I think I'm going to settle with 14psi. This should be a very safe setup. The detonation wouldn't be a problem with the water injection and the higher capacity fuel system, but the turbo life at 16psi would shorten significantly. This is not an acceptable compromise for me.