fd3sY8S

Again here is another find for $100.00 after I already invested, but, if you are in the SF Bay area give this CL listing a try! Looks decent for the money.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/6029735360.html

fd3sY8S

Needed to decompress after work so I put the y pipe in tonight and buttoned up the install with belts toboot. Not enough gas in my tank to do the rad tonight. Still waiting on the IC duct anyho.

fd3sY8S

Anyone know if the gasket is built into the t-stat? Looks like it is. Hate to find out after I remove it..

fd3sY8S

Tried to jack another thread after a search. All good with the t-stat. Three bolts in the filler neck and replace it. Use an OEM or quality replacement like RP or another forum vendor. Search for more info on leaving it out totally if you want to for a track car or wide open I suppose. Not for me though.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

oh the joy of removing and replacing the Tstat. you should change out the thermoswitch to a FC one too while your at it and maybe get a new water temp sensor. its like 40$ and 21$.

fd3sY8S

Isnt the purpose of putting the FC thermoswitch in to enable the fans sooner and if so won't I just be able to program the PFC to do this anyway?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Power FC control 2 of the 4 relays.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ntrols-876767/
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...system-906142/

kensin

iTrader: (22)

I only understand half of it , hell, not even sure if i understand at all lol

explain like im 5 please lol

ive done the dual oil cooler , fluidyne radiator . i made sure the fans turn on when there is no electrical load. and yet , in stop and go traffic for about 5~ 10 minute i still see my coolant needle go to the middle of the temp gauge. ;(

ive changed new termostat and fc termoswitch and still no bueno. car still sort of heats up. is it really a sin to drive the car in 95+ degrees weather ?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Did you put your powerfc in? That will give you more "accurate" temp readouts. The stock gauge is not linear and the "middle" covers a large range of temps.
The stock thermostat opens at 180*F. So, all the fans in the world wont help much until then. If it is open, you can kick on the AC to low, and it will bump the fan speed up a notch.
You can also use the PFC to set lower temps for the ECU controlled relays(2 of the 4). If that's still not enough you can get a lower temp thermostat like billion or sard that opens lower.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

I haven't install the pfc just yet . I want to get the car running right before using the pfc to do extra control duties. such as lowering the fan activation temp. so .. if I have no electrical load. and ac is not on nor the parking lights. which relay am I relying on to activate the fan on low speed ? is it #2 and 4 relay ? I suspect my relays are going in and out under high heat. making the fans not work all the time. but there's no way to test it when I'm in stop and go traffic

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Switching the AC on will always kick the fans to low speed.
Other than that you're relying on the thermoswitch(relay 3) and stock ECU(relays 2 and 4).
The ecu switches kick on at 105c
the stock thermoswitch kicks on at 108c (the FC thermoswitch kicks on at 95c)

1 - 2 relays on = low
3 relays on = middle
4 relays on = high

If your fans are coming in and out, that's you bouncing off the thermoswitch most likely.
Since you can only have 3+ relays on at 105c-108c with the stock ECU, you'll have to put the PFC in to bring that down to something more comfortable.
But, if it' kicking in and out that means you're staying under the thermoswitch temp.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

ok I understand a bit better now . my fans work as it should. but the stock temp gauge creeping to middle or higher is concerning. that means even with working fans the car still run super hot in stop and go traffic here in the desert. 95+ daily

I guess I'll have to drive with parking lights on now to med speed at all times

or maybe it's not working correctly cause if it did. the gauge needle shouldn't be moving at all am I right ?

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (160)

Install the PFC and see what the temp reads.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

+1

fd3sY8S

So I had a little time this afternoon to try and tackle the rad this afternoon. Let the car take a brown ****. You can tell this baby has never been drained. Was a bit of a pain getting things in and out but if you loosen the condenser below and give yourself some menouverabilty you can finagle things around. The lift is a bonus.

fd3sY8S

Now I have to admit, it was not all smooth sailing. I had an extra part from the factory fall out. I guess Mazda when they were putting it together dropped an extra rad mount cause when I pulled the rad it fell out. I threw me for a loop for a couple minutes while I looked where it went

Next thing was for those that have claimed fitment problems.... I put my upper rad brackets on upside down. These are the ones on top of the radiator. This would space the radiator up too high. This would cause the rad to sit too high causing the hose connection to hit the fuse box and if you have AC the filter dryer to hit the fan. That sucked flipping those.

Onwards! UPS showed up with my duct from Pettit! Everything going in good.

And then .... TIGHT,,,, ggeeezzzz , watch the pulley, damn, now the hood won't shut. Alright, time to take a break. Enough for one day. You know when you've had enough for one day and things aren't going right.

fd3sY8S

Was it doing that before you changed the rad?

fd3sY8S

Beer helps when your not wrenching. So SMIC needs to go down and towards the front. She sits a little crooked. Gotta watch the pulley. Still trying to plan to fit the plastics and battery box. Otherwise it would be down hill already. Plan on pulling it apart after getting it going to dress it back up to stockish finish on the pipes with a "zoom zoom" touch. His build looks great. Have to figure out a powder silver or better yet sand blast the GReddy elbow to look more stock maybe. First things first, get the hood closed.

New Mazda bolts in the battery tray.

Side note, or two, I have rather large hands, not bragging. Everything on this car is small, confined, hard to get too and a P I A and can be fragile. I bet I can torque everything with a 1/4" socket. Great thing is everything is 10mm, 12mm or 14 but you better have every variation with my kinda finners. Don't try this job without 1/4", 3/8" socket s, deep and shallow, extensions, pliers, needle nose, screw drivers, box end wrenches, knife, and then some.
Second note, ever look at those open orfices and think boy I hope I don't drop anything in there. Well you will likely will. To easy to plug it with a towel. Much harder to disassemble. Don't drop anything in a turbo or anything else you don't want to have to take apart to remove. Speaking from experience don't ya knowgot it out cuz it was big and easy but I am older and wiser now.

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

I has one of the shock-adjuster-caps pop off and fall right in an open turbo compressor one time. Fun fun. Patience and repetition pay off.

You may have to trim the pettit duct some, so that it doesn't push the IC too far back. And, it looks like you may be able to drop it some by messing with the bottom brackets/hardware. Might have to ditch those rubber spacers.

Kensin got his to fit with a modified stock duct, maybe he's got some pointers in exchange for all the cooling/fans advice

kensin

iTrader: (22)

I heard that the pettit duct needs to be trimmed to fit good with stock battery and create more wiggle room. just never knew where . I had a extra stock duct ,so what I did was use the stock greddy shitty duct plate and use that as a template for size and modified the stock duct. I cut the stock duct to just mate up with the greddy plate. sort of like meeting half ways .so I know it fits perfectly when it's on top of the radiator .

as for your fitment. yes. it's very tight lol. I have slight better clearance then yours on the main pulley . you can move the right side of the IC for slight adjustment. you may want to bend the left mount bracket a little more so it can tilt a little more forward. since you are saying you can't closed the hood. as long as the hood prop lays down flush like the way it's supposed to. you shouldn't have an issue.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Looks like you don't have those rubber bushing under your intercooler mounts, that's good half inch difference, it looks like. Trim the duct and hog out the mounting holes and that will get you forward some.

kensin

iTrader: (22)

yup you have to ditch the rubber bushing. don't worrie. it doesn't flex or make any noise. unless its not bolted down tight enough. i put the rubber bushing on the underside lol

fd3sY8S

Works been keeping me busy. No update yet. Definitely have to lower but the Pettit duct must be trimmed as well. More to follow

fd3sY8S

So my project has slowed, found a nice FB and been working on making room in the shop. Should take delivery next week and I have a nice 4 post lift I have to put together now to stack some cars in order to make some room. The Atlas 8000 EXT-L is what I went with. I've had good luck with the brand thus far. I'll put up some pics when I get it started hopefully this weekend.