|
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 12289167)
Very cool.. but looks like the Plex gets a lot of it's function from OBD II interface. How are you getting it to work with the PFC?
P i got the version that has 2 the egt inputs + all pbc pro versions have 2 analog inputs, one that the NGK AFX will be hook up with and the other will be a fuel pressure sensor for boost cut during fuel starvation . there is also the water/meth injection failsafe system that can connect to it so in the end, I wont be seeing coolant temp and oil but for those i have the Defi ZD right on the steering column so essentially this simplifies the 3 gauges (one being the turbosmart boost control) and the NGK that is in the din pocket( not visible from the first picture). I want to use the boost by gear properly. the 2 analog switches on the existing boost control is a good but poorly executed idea |
More pics of your old turbo?
|
I haven't been very active lately but I figured it was a good time to update this thread with some major updates.
The clutch has always been a headache as no clutch seems to last in my hands. I got an OS giken R2CD dual plate clutch to replace Single plate Carbonetics Carbon clutch. right before the installation a friend had sold his car and he had a Carbonetics Dual Carbon Clutch that it was missing the push to pull converter. Since i had that i figured it was a good time to try it. So now i have 2 clutch systems on stand-by just in case haha I have been wanting to simplify the interior of my car with all the dash/gauges setup and also upgrade the ecu to something a little more modern so it can support the can-bus communication between the ecu and the dash. I still love the power fc, it has never let me down but with the direction of the build, the haltech switch seemed inevitable. Since i was getting the haltech system, I was ready to buy a dash logger. I didnt want to get the haltech IC7. The AIM or Plex (Syvecs) stuff seemed to be of a higher level. Right when i was ready to order the AIM MXG dash, they had released the AIM PDM series of power distribution modules with a "coming soon" date. So i was playing the waiting game until the pdm was officially released. I got a very early release of the PDM32 with the 10inch dash. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...78a227421a.jpg My car is still a street driven car so i wanted to maintain the ABS- A/C (Cyprus is HOT) along with some of the daily comforts and this is where the major wiring headache comes in. I have consulted with C.Ludwig and an ex-colleague from Cyprus who is a master auto electrician and Matt Romanowski from trailbrake.com . Studying all the wiring Diagrams in Japanese (as it is a late model FD) to figure how to make everything to work harmoniously with each other was not easy but we got it done. I have ran out of inputs and i therefore had to use the RIO12 which is the input expansion module for the AIM stuff. I am using Tefzel wire for each channel appropriate thickness along with the different colors. When I started building this harness no harnesses were available but even the handful of the ones that are now available all use the same color wires and i wanted to avoid that. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...699b4d2ab9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...53abad0ec7.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcfadb94a.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...af0ba09e9d.jpg My Egts have always been high and i think the root cause of the issue was my "restrictive" manifold. my car spends most of its time at the track and i am very often at WOT. Since we were wiring the pdm, i had a carpet in pristine condition that i thought it was a good opportunity to replace since my bolt on roll cage is now gone. I did not expect what I came across. I had managed to melt the seals of the master cylinder and the primary cylinder in the past but i did not think that the heat would or could melt the carpet on the inside. Thankfully the damage is small but i am planning to strip the car to a bare shell next year and have it repainted inside and out https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a7ffede7a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d981a2f5b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...946ecb599.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ed895d1db.jpeg Well since i lost my other car due to a fire in the same location i wanted to make sure that everything is insulated properly to avoid a similar outcome, and the manifold replaced (if indeed that is the source of my "problem") but it didn't stop there. along with the new BIG-R GleaseMan Manifold (which was already inconel shielded, Thanks @Neutron ) i figured let me do the same to the turbine housing and downpipe, intake manifold. Since i had to make a new downpipe (Now a 4inch) and I wanted to make more power than previously with the 8374, i decided to switch my turbo to a 9280. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d424dfd11.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d5e0b4d0.jpeg (Neutron's Pic) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f92b12597.jpeg (Neutron's Pic) |
Since each post is limited to 12 pictures i am gonna split it up to multiple posts.
EFR-9280 EWG https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...25b3ddba0f.jpg Radium primary and secondary fuel rails, Radium FPR and FPD Marine Ign Coils mounted under the upper intake manifold Heater pipe had to be rerouted as it wont clear the turbo (clears but its very close) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7924afddfc.png 4 inch downpipe with both wastegates plumbed back in the exhaust https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...67d175fe5.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcf1ef139.jpeg downpipe inconel shielded https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...34a9e7c42.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a52c6723f.jpeg Xcessive intake manifold Inconel shielded https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1aa00b669.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6990c10bd.jpeg |
I have 3d Scanned and modeled all related components.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4d0debcb0.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...eb93dc705.jpeg It came out nice but if i was going to do it over i would have done things a little differently https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8534474ce.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e7cf5a8cb.jpeg Thermoplastic Vibration damper (TPU) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4ecbb4c8e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd9d0ded8.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6d85435fd.jpeg Test Fitment. Gotta love having the RHD dashboard here in the states to be doing test-fits https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...560c70e9d.jpeg In case I need to charge a laptop at the track https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6f61b260a.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...854db9834.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0c4da21e0.jpeg PA11 Is a bitch to paint but loctite came up with an adhesive promoter that supposedly it is made for the PA11. It seems that the paint sticks a lot better with this promoter but i am not convinced that its as durable. I figured the next step is to dye it with clothes dye and then paint match it but even then i am not sure how it will work out. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9907e5d2e.jpeg |
I
have chewed up enough fender liners to know not to install but i came across these. This guy from Canada made a small batch of these. covers the hole in the engine bay. It doesn't really work as a fender liner but Im pretty happy with the fitment https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4913ad193.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3a825b4c3.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9b164a964.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1612f0295.jpeg Sneak peak of the new coilovers. Switched from Ohlins PCV to Ohlins PCV :lol: . They new coilovers have been revalved and rebuilt for the swift 18k and 16k rear springs. i have maintained the helper springs as they are superb for the street https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b775c77ad.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...78382d902.jpeg This is my front chassis harness. Yeap that's it https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c75be5788c.jpg |
That dash is delicious.
|
Nice work!
fwiw, I used some DEI floor and tunnel shield under the car in the tranny tunnel and firewall to decrease the amount of heat coming into the cabin. Works well. |
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
(Post 12496185)
Nice work!
fwiw, I used some DEI floor and tunnel shield under the car in the tranny tunnel and firewall to decrease the amount of heat coming into the cabin. Works well. i actually got the thicker version that i am planning to install on the firewall after the paint job. seeing 1100C EGT (even on both runners) at the track the poor car is crying for help haha |
Costas, an update like this is like dropping a Nuke :rofl:
Loving that 4 inch dual gate reroute Bad Boy. You do not see those often, and for a reason. Kudos! Why the crushed coolant pipe in the last pic? for clearance I'm sure but what's in the way? Loving the pics buddy :bubrub: |
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 12496196)
Costas, an update like this is like dropping a Nuke :rofl:
Loving that 4 inch dual gate reroute Bad Boy. You do not see those often, and for a reason. Kudos! Why the crushed coolant pipe in the last pic? for clearance I'm sure but what's in the way? Loving the pics buddy :bubrub: The crushed tube that feels like an afterthought on the hks vmount but actually this is how the kit comes. .. it seems that its the only way to use a stock sized radiator (which i greatly appreciate) with the radiator inlet/outlet as they are from the factory. I might end up making a different tube to eliminate this but it works well as a kit. The intercooler is actually in the way. So it basically rests right on top of that |
Back to the HKS vmount story; !The radiator fans! a story that makes every hks v-mount owner dreads as these damn fans hang so low with the setup. I do appreciate the fact that i can use the oem sized radiator but its a poor solution .
I had posted this on DaleClark's thread about the HKS Vmount but i have never posted it here. Well here's how it goes with a short recap. with the fans hanging so low i ended up getting aftermarket SPAL fans 11inch, 844 CFM each, low profile. I bolted the fans on through the fins. the Car worked fine, the A/C sucked So i switched to a different 11inch SPAL fan, 1370 CFM but it was not low profile as before. My cooling system performed significantly better with the 1370CFM fans but it wasn't really up to par with OEM A/C performance even though my coolant temps were fine except when the A/C would come on i wasn't going fast enough to cool the condenser. It was recommended several times to ditch the A/C system by a few of my close friends. As long as the car is on the street, the A/C and the ABS stays. While I gained a couple of inches in floor clearance from the OEM Fans to the 1370CFM fans, I felt that more clearance was needed. I didn't have any issues going over speed-bumps or had an issue when I locked up and got off the track a couple of times. The fan installation bothered me for a while so i decided to design a shroud that would work with the HKS V-Mount. So i came up with this (Note, this is NOT remotely similar to some other options out there. The shroud bolts on to the radiator on the reverse side and it's not welded on like some other options i have seen. The Koyo Radiator is clear anodized and i am sure a lot of other radiators are. why would i want to mess the anodizing to weld on a shroud like? And when the radiator needs replacing would i have to repeat the process again? that's stupid but someone mentioned this before so i am clarifying it) https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8a9ceb7005.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...af5c6dd05a.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...479fdcfe86.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1b727e49f6.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a923f2797.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...791196fd20.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...62777ecb09.jpg The A/C performance is so good right now, i am freezing when i turn it on. The engine coolant temperature dropped significantly . I had previously replaced my thermostat to a 68 C and the car runs at that temperature even when the ambient temperature is 40+ C. Whereas before I would often see 105+ C coolant temp at the track . I need to replace the thermostat back to an OEM temp thermostat (something around 80-85 C). So the cooling system now is too efficient , something you don't hear often with these cars haha Well with the shroud now, some height is added (1/2" if i recall) so now i have gained about 1-1/2" from the OEM FANS. While still higher than the OEM system; i am feeling a little uncomfortable that eventually I will smack the fans and mess everything up. So i went back to the drawing board and i designed this adaptor. The bolt pattern for the 1370CFM vs the 844CFM are close, but not close enough to make it work. I ended up getting the mounting tabs that clock them at a different angle to get some extra clearance on this adaptor https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a3215df0f.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...41c7634cf.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...29dc8c265.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9238649c7.jpeg These are the fans i had used previously (844CFM) and this adaptor will allow me to gain 2 additional inches in height (approximately 3.5inches higher than the OEM Fans) I hope that the 844CFM fans will work well this time using this shroud as they didn't perform well previously. Extrapolating some old data I had in hand, I think they will work well. If not, the 1370 CFM ones can go back |
Amazing work Costas. The improvent in cooling efficiency from the custom made shroud is also impressive!
Let us know impressions on the new settings on the PCV in due course mate. |
The Pdm Saga continues. Still a major mess but everything is wired in. We have to clean up the installation now. Well at this point i left Cyprus to return to the US but there's still some work getting done on the car in my absence as i left the car with my ex-colleague
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cc97191ae.jpeg The PDM location is by the passenger airbag cavity. The Airbag mounts on the bar that is inside the dash. I wanted to design a nice mount for the pdm to go on. The problem with that is that the dashboard i have at home is only the skin and not the complete dash (sneak peak of the Haltech RHD bracket from @IRPerformance ) https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1925b29718.jpg Luckily for me, a guy had posted a complete S8 dash for sale and he was only 15 minutes away from me . it includes everything. vents, harness , even the din pocket so i decided to start designing a mount but i didnt have the pdm since it is in cyprus so i modelled and 3d printed one in low quality for a test fit purpose. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8d51a4e45.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4e02ab2ae.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0317d49d0.jpeg I have decided to upgrade my system even further and get this IZZE Racing system for my AIM pdm https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b95808cd.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...76825a333.jpeg the size of a quarter per sensor https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bcc8cc2ea.jpeg While this only measures the external temperature of the tire; It is only half the equation. I also needed the pressure and preferably to be measured in the same system so you would tire pressure and internal temperature I ended up getting this TPMS from trailbrake.com . Matt was nice enough to help me set up a Can protocol for these 2 systems to work together https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8188702c73.jpg pictures from trailbrake.com https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a323397122.jpg pictures from trailbrake.com I was planning to upgrade to one of these systems instead but since i am running a square setup and i do tire rotation very often (every track day ) but i have decided against them because it is not easy to set them up every time you are rotating. its doable but its messy. i figured with the valve cap sensors i will be better off for what i need and work just as well for the amateur level track day enthusiast that i am https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...13ec3775c1.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5333515718.png |
Damnit. Now I need to upgrade again.
|
Looking good.
|
I have made this sample mount. straight from the back bracket but mounting the prototype looks a little crooked because the back bracket is not actually parallel to the dash
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...480825311.jpeg 2nd version mounted ( 6 degree angle) vs the original concept https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6a2c8f1d8.jpeg This is the second version of the mount, with a 6 degree angle with the intention to have it parallel with the dash. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...13ca38617.jpeg This will be a made in TPU thermoplastic to absorb vibrations https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a825af944.jpeg I think it came out alright for now. Final piece will be laser cut in 5052 aluminum and possibly press in some FHS-M6 studs for an easy installation. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...926891d3b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...562d9569f.jpeg |
and to a little more interesting stuff.
I developed some end play on my driveshaft (by the differential side). diff clunks a lot. i figured my OS giken after 14 years of service is finally toast. its to be determined but i at this point i am prepared for the worst I decided to try the Carbonetics Carbon 1.5way diff and compare it with the os giken. I really like the carbonetics Clutch. I loved the triple carbon clutch when i first drove it on David Hayes 20B beast. I was very impressed with how oem feel-like it was and how it handled power and this is one of the main reasons why i went with the dual carbon pro series from carbonetics. At this point, I am hoping that their diffs is as good as their clutches. I had been looking for a 4.77 ring and pinion from the R3 Rx8 for a while as i could really benefit from a 4.77 at my local track, The 4.44 is a great option and it has helped me a lot at the track but there's a couple of spots that i could benefit from a 4.77. As for the 4.77 availability, you can order it from any website but then they will cancel the order saying that the part is NLA. So anyhow I gave up my search for a 4.77. I I didn't want to get a knightsports or whatever other jdm option is out there as it is not as beefy as the OEM RX8.I saw the other R&P on ebay AUS with 5.1, 5.3 and 5.8 ratios that a friend ended up buying with great success (on a track only rx8) but it was too short for me. I have the short 5th gear as my transmission is using the JDM 5th gear So I ended up picking a pumpkin from a low mileage rx8 pretty cheap so i can use the 4.44 in the event that my 4.44 ring and pinion is messed up. They are pretty cheap, and at this point its unknown whether my ring and pinion is fine or messed up and i don't want to delay my pumpkin rebuild. My visits to Cyprus are more and more scarce every year so i don't want to open it up find that its all messed up and can't rebuild it. Inevitably I buy parts I don't necessarily need but i am in peace of mind that in a worst case scenario i wont be stranded because I don't have something that barely costs 150$ I found an R3 pumpkin (with the 4.77 R&P) shortly after though with 19k miles if i recall. Took it apart, the R&P is super clean but since it wasnt going to go in the car for a while, ship it half way around the globe, i decided to use that dry lube graphite spray for the sake of preservation. I do have 2 pumpkins there. i might end up grabbing another Carbonetics (if its as good as i expect) and 2 build identical pumpkins one with 4.44 and one with the 4.77. If the 4.77 will work fine on the street/highway; I thinking to perhaps get a shorter ratio (5.1 5.3 maybe) and use that purely on the track in the event that the 4.77 doesn't work very well at the track https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cb1edfcfe.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0ea6e53d8.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a047b8ee9.jpeg My RPF1 were 17x10 and the tires i brought over were 275 40 17 Nitto NT01. these are only available in the states. The tire availability in europe is very limited in models/sizes I didnt have any options really to use the same size. I opted for 255 40 17 R888R (275 40 17 is available for the R888R, not in europe) Bringing tires as luggage is a big pain in the balls, i have done it 3-4 times but i don't want to do it again. Due to this limited tire availability, i have decided to switch to 18inch rims as there are far more options for the 18inch rims. Since I was shipping rims and a whole bunch of other crap i have decided to grab a set of rims/tires instead of just rims and ship everything together. I switched to the Enkei Rs05RR 18x9.5. I had found them as a good deal and i figured the 9.5 was probably enough for the 275. I hope i wont regret the 9.5" width but i will find out at the first outing to the track. As for this time, i have decided to try the GoodYear SuperCar 3R 275 35 18 tires. a good friend recommended them so i figured it was a good chance to try them as i absolutely HATED the R888R (At 255 40 17). a major disappointment over the NT01 that it is supposed to be in the same category (same brand and supposedly same tire material?) https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e0a18a76d.jpeg |
Wow! It's looking good!
|
Some updates on the pdm installation. I have decided to come up with a mount for the AIM smartycam gp system
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d3e9f59323.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...43bb1fd6c7.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...584b5d7367.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e7c8123ece.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c57ecf4dd1.jpg |
Great stuff Costas - glad to see you out of hibernation and your series 8 continually evolving to a whole new level
Like Mr. Hahn said, your solutions on some of these comparable things are making me consider going back to the drawing board on my build Raising the bar for us all - keep up the great work :icon_tup: |
Originally Posted by ZumSpeedRX-7
(Post 12499107)
Great stuff Costas - glad to see you out of hibernation and your series 8 continually evolving to a whole new level
Like Mr. Hahn said, your solutions on some of these comparable things are making me consider going back to the drawing board on my build Raising the bar for us all - keep up the great work :icon_tup: This kind positive reinforcement is the reason why i am posting some new stuff and it means a lot coming from you guys! I never really stopped making parts (except during a major surgery recovery) but i didn't post them here. not everyone appreciated my design/manufacturing approach but each to their own I will be posting more stuff soon as I am going back home again soon. |
I think we need to see more of your design/manufacturing work, not less. Love your stuff.
|
I have asked my ex-colleague to assemble the car as i am going there for only a short while. he sent me this today.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c3d57a8b3d.jpg I might have to adjust the hood just a little. According to my friend you cant see this in person. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0531ed6e0e.jpg And the IR performance ECU mount for the RHD https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7a58d1a241.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e73ba3654c.jpg The later JDM models did not come with a trunk light and its a pain in the ass trying to get stuff from the trunk at night. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8f58d277fe.jpg installed a door jam switch there. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bde90f5697.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fdb8ccb53f.jpg the pdm program is halfway done but i should finish it when i go back Now with the boring manufacturing stuff again. :lol: i went with the signal conditioner from C.Ludwig for the traction control. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...031752227.jpeg and i had to find a mounting solution. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a632a7bb.jpeg This is not my car but i had to do a test fit https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b0669b53.jpeg i figured i could make it a little shorter as it doesnt interfere with anything. when i printed the sample i didn't like how it looked. I will have the aluminum piece cut in the morning https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...74d15f0d7.jpeg |
He did the pdm wiring changes and i loaded the new program. the dash is Alive ! I am very happy with the results as of now
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2de5f9fe47.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...71be230411.jpg |
I have decided to post some updates.
I have spent a good chunk of september trying to sort out the car with countless problems, while visiting Cyprus The AIM pdm manual unfortunately does not explain all the details how to wire this thing properly. I have been part of their beta test program and i understand that these are the early stages of the AIM PDM32 but i learned more studying the Motec PDM30 manual instead of the AIM. Now that everything is sorted, the AIM is fantastic, everything works as they should BUT i will admit i did initially regret not getting the MOTEC from the get-go. The AIM customer support in the US is next to none! I worked closely with this guy named Cameron at AIM in California. he helped me troubleshoot everything; very often spending several hours on the phone. The 10 hour time difference did not help ! as i often had to be working on the car as late as 4 am. Seriously sleep deprived for the most part of the 3 weeks , i think the car is as good as it will be for now. I left Cyprus yesterday to return to the US. @JhnRx7 was nice enough to join me to this trip half way around the globe to get the world class Rennatuned treatment for a third time. This time on a haltech Elite 2500 though As previously mentioned. i opted out for a Borgwarner EFR9280 with the EWG 1.05 turbine housing. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...84b6cfb5c.jpeg The car made 514ft/lb torque on a very strict mustang dyno that i have always figured that the hp reads way too low as i suspect there is an issue with the hp calculation. it made that power on 28lb of boost. we have decided to stop there since the motor is not studded/reinforced. Not bad considering that the engine has not been rebuilt in the last 10 years. car pulls great vacuum (-7.5psi at ~900rpm) given the age. It been at the track many times and it is a "daily" driven car. the daily is in quotes as i don't live there so its driven daily when i am there . Up until 2015 i was traveling to europe a lot more than now. so in the last 10 years i have managed to put ~20k miles on the car. So to keep this post short and post additional updates tomorrow, John and I hit the track twice (he was there for 5 days) and John captured this beautiful picture as I was battling a super fast M4 at the track https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...03b73fa91.jpeg I went a little wild with the aero. The car feels like its on rails . the Good Year Supercar 3R is a seriously sticky tire. The m4 ended up being a little faster at the turn entry because I had a few issues- including pretty much no brakes due to a bad ABS control module, which was later replaced. More updates tomorrow . |
Epic!
Forgot how much I missed reading about your mods and enhancements |
Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
(Post 12535159)
Epic!
Forgot how much I missed reading about your mods and enhancements |
previously i had helped John with this GT wing design and manufacturing on his track car and we were discussing the effects of the GT wing even at slow speeds. The track i always go to is not a very fast track but it is very technical. I did not think that I could benefit from one but the data John provided made me think otherwise
my car is a street driven car. i have always thought that the GT-wings on street cars look ridiculous and If i was ever going to install one it would have to be a removeable without drilling extra holes. without having a direction on how to attack this design, i figured let me start with some parts that are already made, and then sort of adapt them into my car. The idea was to do this project for 2023 Alex Rodriguez was selling the Re-amemiya Gt wing uprights so i figured it was a good starting point. Use those uprights make adaptors that would mount on the existing 99spec wing holes , figure out the appropriate width of a GT wing that would work with this setup and call it a day https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...09e63007a2.jpg I didnt get too far with this project as this gt wing came up for sale on the Japanese yahoo auctions https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3c5e869f3.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7a6d5a301.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...779635e4e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dde761306.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...534476095.jpeg According to the description, this is a one off gt wing made for an FD to be used at the world time attack. whether this is accurate or not I cant say. if I was designing a wing for a WTAC i wouldnt have mounted it on the trunk lid but at the chassis but that's beyond the point. This is exactly what i was looking for in terms of mounting. The wing is all carbon fiber (uprights/ end plates etc) and the mounts are some resin composite that appear to be very strong. what it is exactly, i cant tell. The price was right. so It looks ridiculous but if its for track use only, who cares so here it is mounted https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f30d7bfca.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...444ba271a.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0afe26cb2.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...07a2428b9.jpeg |
Your car is absolutely amazing. Reading through this entire build was truly inspiring. I just bought my FD a couple months ago. I now have some goals. And they are pretty darn high! Really appreciate all the time and effort you have out into updating this build and sharing everything.
|
Originally Posted by Nelfien
(Post 12535215)
Your car is absolutely amazing. Reading through this entire build was truly inspiring. I just bought my FD a couple months ago. I now have some goals. And they are pretty darn high! Really appreciate all the time and effort you have out into updating this build and sharing everything.
I will keep posting some updates for some time, until the next time someone decides to call my stuff "All that glitter" LOL For the people who know me in person, i am a faily large framed guy. After my severe spinal injury/surgery i have gained quite a bit of weight and I have outgrown the TS-G seats. To my eyes, the TS-G (And obviously the RS-G) are by far the most beautiful seats and they fit in the fd cabin perfectly, while being a solid track seat choice. After my long recovery i was able to lose a lot of that weight but i decided to get a new pair of seats anyway i saw these seats in person a few years back at the RAVspec shop in long island NY before they closed down. everything looked great on them except that green strip. I like the small recaro logo, the fabric. I have grown to accept the green strip. I am not going to say i like it but whatever , it barely even shows So i ended up getting these. They are the Limited edition Recaro pole position SL. Only 300 of them are available globally. I have been wanting the recaro podiums since they first appeared online. I saw them in person shortly after getting these and i must say, i did regret getting these even though the podiums are so much more expensive. The recaro podiums are just GORGEOUS. So much nicer in person https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f026c9452.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...af2ba3bf4.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b47a032a0b.jpg International shipping is a KILLER so i had to improvise. so, here's the Special Packaging to take the seat on the plane with me https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...37723e1b1.jpeg I happened to be there watching them loading and unloading them. The ground crew were very gentle to it. I cant say that they were very gentle to the bags https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7220cd391.jpeg I ended up getting the Ronin speedworks seat mounts. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...86101c7646.jpg powder coated them black along with some other stuff https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2a9272f21.jpeg I installed the Advance 130A Alternator from Japan. and i was barely getting 12 volts at idle. so i decided to replace the underdrive pulley with a stock pulley and the voltage jumped to 13.5+ https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...da3220d13.jpeg From the same picture you will see what looks like the shroud i had made in the past, with the main difference, that it is not! This piece will be like a template to mount the FEED undertray so my fans will clear the undertray so they will be able to get all the air out https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1ae254882.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...04da59286.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...269c33f60.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ae3bf2cd5f.jpg |
I did source one of the FEED undertrays for my car. it was used and slightly damaged but i figured since i am going to cut it up for the fans and the brake ducts i might aswell get the used one instead of a brand new one. I will say this though. The 3 piece undertray from Shine seemed to be the better approach. I did regret removing it but i should have done it a little better in terms of modifying.
So its all modified to clear the fans and also channel the air out. Its still a work in progress but here it is. The idea is for that panel (+ the rib shown in the previous post) so be installed in case this is not strong enough. It seems to be strong enough but unless mounted and tested i cant really tell https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...65281353a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bfb42980e.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1845a0de1.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4cfbf652a.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d9e4f710a.jpeg The initial plan was add naca ducts on each side for the brake ducts similar on what you see here . I cant say whether this is feasible until i get under the car with the undertray mounted . I was looking for a specific picture that gave me the inspiration as it was a specific undertray with the naca duct molded in the undertray but i cant find it so heres another one i found online for the sake of the illustration. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2292b4c38d.jpg I ended up getting the APR naca ducts. The flange mount with the hole pattern was the most appealing. I ended up making a drilling/cutting jig and 3d printed it. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f07f9da7a.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0fa0c56c6.jpeg and speaking of fixtures/jigs i wanted to make a specific mount for the Izze racing tire temperature sensors So to figure out how to mount them and and mount them properly according to the data Izze racing provided i decided to design a simplified flat bottom with the fd dimensions to figure how they will be mounted so i made these templates that simulate the same angle and length as the sensors https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3f5fffc40.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7679e5e98.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...45d6ef753.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0c0711e80.jpeg |
the plan was to use those templates with the holes drilled on them and them pass a bolt through the undertray and bolt it down. i decided against this idea shortly after and i came up with this
a 2 piece design with the top bracket holes countersunk to clear the sensor lens along with steel hardware on the bottom plate for some additional reinforcement https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...46ce2e1cb.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ad0472242.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a17e9f3d5.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...26eb030fb.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5cb99a869.jpeg |
Awesome job as always, Costas - keep raising that bar
|
Full marks across the design... BRAVO!
|
Originally Posted by ZumSpeedRX-7
(Post 12535879)
Awesome job as always, Costas - keep raising that bar
Originally Posted by Carlos Iglesias
(Post 12535889)
Full marks across the design... BRAVO!
I have a lot of updates to post in the next few days |
some more design and manufacturing stuff before i get into the problems failures and frustrations of the latest trip.
I had Initially gotten a 4port solenoid for my boost control. I went with this solenoid setup purely for how clean the setup from FULL-RACE is but then I figured i could actually benefit from the 4port solenoid. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...82f9492f21.jpg I liked the idea of the 4port solenoid since it will allow me to increase my max pressure 4x the spring pressure, as opposed to the 3port solenoid where you can increase the max pressure 2x the spring pressure The idea was to use 10psi springs and use a max boost or around of 30psi so i can hit tight turns with 10-12psi of boost at WOT. It all sounded great on paper. i was getting a strange behavior with the 4port.a couple of friends who used 4port solenoids in the past recommended to switch back to a 3port. it appears that the 4port is a major headache. It kinda worked out because the car under 17psi feels pretty slow so even at the turns where i was anticipating to be using 10-12 i need closer to 17lb. The springs were changed from the initial 10psi (if i recall) to the 14 psi springs but then the mounting was a problem. I had reached out to FULL-RACE to see if they offered a 3 point solenoid mount much like their 4 port. To my surprise they told me it would only work with the 4 port and no similar product is offered for the 3-port. So i decided to try my luck and design something that could be beneficial to the community. I would never copy someone else's part. They offer a 4 port mount, I might be offering the 3port mount . There's no reason to offer the same product. I might start up a website, "ALL-THAT-GLITTER FD PRODUCTS" LOL i did not like how the FULL-RACE one mounted on. Its not a difficult installation but its a tight space, with a good chance of dropping the screws etc. I wanted a simplified version where the whole thing can be assembled before hand and using one screw to mount it on the turbo. I am pretty pleased with how it came out. Initially 3d-printed for a test-fit and then aluminum https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...63e3b87064.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bf6a945c84.jpg The side by side difference between the fullrace and my mount. While my version is significantly thinner, it is actually stronger because i am using steel inserts as opposed to tapping the aluminum part. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ee2aab4e38.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8713a8b785.jpg I am using a 4mm pilot for alignment (as opposed to a screw) https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...40f9d8e484.jpg Flush mounted hardware even though there's room for longer hardware. i figured to get the right length and make it look pretty https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...77af9eaec2.jpg This was the initial fitting orientation that i thought made the most sense. made some changes https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6b208015c.jpeg so yeah the whole thing is held by one single 10-32 screw. no drilling, no tapping no modifying . just bolts on https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e75eff54f.jpeg |
I have similarly mounted a MAC 'noid, and found the generic mount that comes with the one Sakebomb sells allowed me to mount similar to yours, although yours is a lot nicer. Mine sort of hangs there a little janky.
|
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 12535988)
I have similarly mounted a MAC 'noid, and found the generic mount that comes with the one Sakebomb sells allowed me to mount similar to yours, although yours is a lot nicer. Mine sort of hangs there a little janky.
with one hole to mount it though you do have a good chance of the whole thing moving/spinning. This is why i used that 4mm pilot so it lines up and it locks it in place. I made a few extras, if you want one let me know :nod: |
What does this mean?
I will keep posting some updates for some time, until the next time someone decides to call my stuff "All that glitter" LOL |
Originally Posted by 7_rocket
(Post 12536999)
What does this mean?
I will keep posting some updates for some time, until the next time someone decides to call my stuff "All that glitter" LOL The "All that glitter" story goes a while back where a thread was posted about the hks vmount. I have had that intercooler for several years, I was battling the issues that come with this kit, because the way HKS has mounted the oem fans on the radiator is just laughable. they hang so low, its an accident waiting to happen. Like the picture below https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b64399f5b4.jpg I felt it was appropriate to post a pretty detailed description of what testing i did over the years to come up with the solution that I came up. I didnt need that thread to realize that people will not sit down and read the objective of a project and the outcome and understand what was done. While a few people, with the same problem, expressed some interest in getting a similar solution, a certain individual, who I will not name, with very limited knowledge of the technical aspect of things, who also appears to be incapable of comprehending the objective and the outcome, started criticizing my work. The stock fans are more than adequate. Why would you want those enormous and unnecessary fans hanging below the bumper line? It'd better be a smooth track car and never have an off-track event to make those work. All that glitters... When I saw the comment, I decided not to respond since it was over a year later . I didn't feel my solution was appreciated anyway and a friend had mentioned to me that I thread-jacked the original thread and if i wanted to I should have posted a new thread about it. So I decided to ask an administrator to delete all my posts related to my project from that thread. I will admit I was annoyed at first with this guy's behavior but my solution works well so yeah I am not paying attention to people like that. |
Hmm sounds like something I would say. If so, sorry it was offensive.
|
Originally Posted by Narfle
(Post 12537074)
Hmm sounds like something I would say. If so, sorry it was offensive.
|
I have had several failures during this trip. One of the expected ones were the clutch. I had initially switched from the carbon single pro-spec clutch from carbonetics. When i installed that clutch on the car the goal was to be around the 400whp mark which that clutch would have been plenty. Things changed and i needed something a little more capable for the job. after going through 2 sets of the pro-spec carbon clutch i have decided to upgrade to the twin carbon kit from carbonetics. I never liked the converter of the carbonetics clutch. it gives you too much "freedom" to mess things up. The clutch felt fine at the dyno and at the track. it didn't feel like it wasn't disengaging but when I was doing power shifts from 3rd to 4th the clutch would slip. I knew I had to look into it but I didn't get the chance. and a couple of days later as i was waiting in traffic (with the clutch pressed) the car jumped. so overall here is the carnage after about 2 weeks of use.
the discs were also worn from 4mm to 3.2mm https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c3b32b6b95.jpg I had a strong suspicion that the clutch wasnt going to last. I did mention this before but i kept an OS giken R2CD on standby. I have to admit, while the carbonetics twin carbon felt great, pretty much like an oem clutch; the OS giken is just so much smoother. I had the Os giken STR in the past which they also felt pretty good but this one is just so much smoother. For the longest time, my favorite clutch in terms of pedal feel was the triple carbon clutch i tried on David Hayes 20B (probably 12-13 years ago). I think the R2CD has come on top. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...17e6645bf.jpeg I did replace the ohlins PCV with a new revalved ohlins PCV with 18k and 16k spring rates. it was a rebuilt/revalved set from japan they looked perfect but the history is unknown. I took for the car for inspection. The inspections in cyprus are pretty serious when it comes to suspension drive-train components. they do the suspension test, brakes test and overall bushings/pillow test. you can fail the inspection if these don't work as they should. as opposed to the NJ/NY inspections LOL. After the suspension test the car did not feel right in the rear. it felt like one size was loose even though it passed the suspension test just fine. I rang a friend of mine who has been heavily involved in the rally scene in Cyprus and we did work on several rally projects in the past. He builds custom suspension systems for any application. he has everything in stock. shock dyno etc and i was pretty shocked (pun intended) to see what a nice specialty shop he has put together. he took care of my ohlins suspension immediately. we were in and out within the hour. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6a1c75ca67.jpg we noticed that the clicker shaft was bent so it was spinning indefinitely. on the older ohlins pistons the clicker is external. on the newer ones it is built in. So we ended up getting one shipped from italy a few days later https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...590c7f4a87.jpg One of my biggest issues over there was the ABS. everything was wired it and everything seemed that it was working at least from the wiring stand-point. I took the car for the wheel alignment and after the alignment i went to try out the car . i locked up so bad and it felt like i was ice skating. I realized that something was seriously wrong right away. I maintained the OEM diagnostic connector purely for the ABS system so if need be i can stick a diagnostic and try to trouble shoot the ABS if something is misbehaving . we moved the connector from the engine bay to where the pdm is. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...beea76cc58.jpg Wheel speed sensor, right front had an "open or short circuit" fault code. i did reset it and it went away however the ABS was not working. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3a33fea660.jpg so figuring out the japanese manuals for my model how to diagnose it AT this point i wasnt sure if the ABS required a test bulb/resistor like the the S/L style alternators to make it work There are 2 ABS lights according to the manual. One lights up for fault codes etc, and the other one lights up for low brake fluid level.(PIN E & F from mazda manual) checking everything manually it appeared that i had a short circuit for the low brake fluid level. I checked the lines, everything was fine https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0b00b02662.jpg some odd 15 years ago i came across a spirit R that was badly damaged. and i took some parts from it. One of the things i decided to grab was the F146 ABS unit the intention at the time was to buy an older FD and upgrade the brakes to the newer style. That plan never came to fruition but i had bought the pump and i did pay a quite a bit to get it. so i would see it every year for the last 15 or so years, thinking "you are always buying these junk, wasting all this money and you have a whole warehouse of parts you will most likely never use". When i suspected that the ABS control unit was bad i changed my tune. Even if it wasn't the ABS control unit, at least i would have eliminated this possibility. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...66019f0e63.jpg the guy who helped me with the PDM told me, stick a light bulb from where the abs unit is sending the signal to the OEM dash and check the behavior. it seemed fine and the behavior did not change so the resistance you get from a regular bulb (much like the S/L alternators) was not needed. So we then determined to add a second light bulb for the low brake fluid level. And it was constantly on . it would flash initially and then never turn off. Everything was pointing towards the control unit. it was easy enough to replace the control unit and test it. control unit has been replaced and the light bulb that was hooked up on the low brake fluid level light started giving fault codes as the car was stationary . nothing was picked up from the diagnostic we took the car for a drive and everything cleared. abs works flawlessly now. I suspect that perhaps some inrush current damaged the unit. perhaps when the battery had died and we ended up using a battery booster I was so happy that i had bought that ABS unit 15+ years ago afterall A guy i know had a 2002 Mx5 and he happened to stop by. i figured to check whether the pump/control unit is the same since it is from the same generation. It appears that the (01-05)MX5 and some early Rx8s are using the same control units . The pump is slightly different. So i picked a few spares from ebay now that i am back in the states https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...50b03e1c4b.jpg |
I had never planned/wired/programmed a pdm before this so obviously a lot of things i had to learn the hard way.
one of the things that i didn't know when i started this project and sort of learned when i came to finish it is that the resistance from the fuel level sensor is not compatible with the pdm (or any dash for that matter) So I had to figure out a way and make it work. the Input that should be used for the fuel level sensor will need to behave like 0-5V sensor so how the hell do you do that lol I sourced the Iron Canyon motorsports fuel level sender (ICM website is down, (possibly down for good?)) (https://ironcanyonmotorsports.com/icm-fuel-sender/) I tried to buy one from them. i reached out by phone and email and i havent heard back since then. Luckily there was one for sale on ebay, brand new, generic 90Ω resistance.I had asked the seller for more information. for what car it was intended for. I was told it was intended for an Mx5. So i am thinking that it should be the same as the fd or at least something very close. Since i can set the scale of the fuel sender in any way i want through the pdm i figured i might aswell get it and fine tune it to suit my needs the problem now is that i didnt account for a 5V line to go all the way back in the trunk. I do have a few extra outputs in the engine bay/cabin/trunk just in case i needed to add extra stuff so that came in handy. As a quick solution before i take the car apart and get a 5V line to the trunk,I got a 12V to 5V transformer to power the ICM and fed the output of the ICM to the PDM input for the fuel level as originally planned. yeah i know this doesnt belong in what i am doing but its only temporary https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9246084814.jpg I borrowed a fuel pump hanger and hooked up the ICM to a multimeter to figure out the scale. I am not sure whether the floating sending unit wasnt functioning as it should but my results varied significantly each time i would take measurements. and the ICM provided scale did not match my readings. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e2033362ef.jpg to figure out the scale , i would go at the gas station. take a picture of the voltage (bottom right) of the fuel level fill up record how many liters i have added and then take another picture of the voltage while the tank is full much like how you see below https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e597ca9d9c.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cde6fd489b.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcfb45a0a8.jpg I did this several times during the 3 weeks i was there and i am pretty confident that i do have a scale figured out |
I decided not to use the trailbrake TPMS system so i thought to get the haltech TPMS even though they are the identical products. same factory and everything.
I cant say i am very pleased with this style of TPMS systems but for something that costs around 200$ its not bad. on the haltech data hub previously had connected the following WB1 TC4 Aim PDM32 and obvioulsy the haltech elite itself so 4 plugs were all occupied. So i needed one more usable plug to use the the TPMS system I will need an additional one in the future because i will end up installing one (or more) IO12s because i am planning to expand the data input on the haltech and I am debating whether i should make a supplemental harness to the existing one or have @C. Ludwig build a new one from scratch with everything implemented since the latest firewall connector from LMS-EFI can now utilize 64(i think) pins as opposed to the 55pin connector i have now. well none the less, I decided to design a dual hub adaptor for the haltech bracket. It came up pretty nice. it was made to be interchangeable between LHD and RHD https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ca7b3fc875.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1a57c2c512.jpg I had John test fit this as at the time my car was quite literally half way around the globe https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...07a310b331.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d18934fb16.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2d0a0e4fff.jpg fitment is pretty much spot on. So i brought the the AIM data hub connector to the front. but i had to find a mounting solution for that ( see arrow) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fdc40a3a0d.png the data hub pretty much landed there give the length of the cable and the routing. While i would have preferred if it was in the middle of the car; i do have the extension cables from AIM so i can connect the temp sensor on the other size fairly easily https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0ec9de2377.jpg same story. 3d printed a prototype sample https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7c4305de5c.jpg it was slightly modified to make it a little prettier. powder coated it black and mounted it but took no pictures! shame! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b5a8b81374.jpg |
This is going to be a long winded post. My findings MAY be an isolated event. Use my data/story/information as you see fit. But here's why the MazMart waterpump SUCKS and i will never get another one of this garbage.
I had left Cyprus at the end of September and while a huge step forward was made with all the upgrades one thing kept bugging me to the point that i have decided to return at the end of December and figure out the issue that kept on giving me a headache at the track but also on the street/cruising Before i took the car apart to do the new turbo/manifold (intake and exhaust) pdm, haltech etc etc. the car was running perfectly fine. In terms of coolant, the car was running very cool, below what you expect as normal My original setup dating several years back and no fan shroud, using a fluidyne radiator, i had installed a 68C degree thermostat from Billion. The car would eventually reach ~105 C or so degrees towards the end of a 20 Minute session. I wouldn't exactly call it a failure back then but why not improve it. fan shroud/ koyo N flow radiator was installed and all my (~105C) overheating issues were gone. The car would reach around 92C-93C and cruising was actually pretty cold (A/C on and highway driving-cruising) would get me to around 69C. I knew that thermostat had to be replaced because 69C is unnecessarily cold so the intention was to replaced it with a thermostat of around ~80 degrees Fast forward to the end of 2020. I took the car apart. and replaced all cooling components. and since the dash was out, i figured i might as well inspect everything - (including the heater core) . Everything seemed fine. some minor surface rust on the pipes of the heater core but nothing that needed immediate attention. I ordered a brand new heater core from mazda to keep on standby as i have plans to strip the car completely to bare metal and repaint it for a fresh look I figured, while i am at it, why not "upgrade" to the MazMart water pump. i mean at that point, the Radiator was only a couple of years old, new heater pipes as i re-routed them to clear the turbo, new thermostat etc So why not change the water pump while i am there. The infamous "while i am there" moments... There were no signs of the motor being hurt. But the car was pretty much sitting for 3 years, even though with no coolant and some frequent engine spins First thing i noticed after we fired the car in September is that the coolant system wouldnt bleed easily. I had eliminated the rear iron to waterpump housing heater line so i thought, ok it might need some extra time to bleed. we hit the dyno with the several issues i had mentioned in previous posts and the car was not overheating per se but it was above my comfort level since previously everything was running perfectly fine. And then we hit the track for track day 1. We couldn't get a solid lap without the car jumping to 110C. I had brought the Lisle Funnel with me and after every session we would bleed the system and there was air in it . We were bleeding the system at the end of the every session (which it didnt last long) but everytime there was a minor improvement. At that point with not many options at the track, I removed the thermostat and to my surprise the coolant was still overheating with a fractional difference in coolant temperature. Before track day 2, (which was the following day) so i decided to re-install the heater tube i had previously eliminated. In my previous system, i had a 3/8" Line (-6AN fittings) but i only had available parts for a 1/4" line (-4AN fittings). I suppose a 1/4" hose is better than no hose for the sake of testing . And to my surprise that made no difference either. I also had some other issues so trying to tackle everything at once wasn't easy. so at this point i am trying to verify that my sensors are actually reading correctly. A comparison in readings with an infrared thermometer made me realize that unfortunately the sensor readings were correct as they were relatively close After that I had left the country and its been bothering me ever since but at that point i am seriously sleep deprived and burnt out. With the head clear after returning back to the states I was reading my datalogs only to realize that i had a lot of fluctuations in my coolant readings. Like bad coolant flow . So there's probably a clog somewhere. the radiator was installed back in 2017-2018 with the new shroud and everything, so it must be that. But what if it something as simple as a radiator cap ? I loaded my luggage with all the possible suspect parts (part availability may be limited especially during the holidays in cyprus so i didnt want to risk not having the parts with me) Brand new Koyo N Flow a few radiator caps all gaskets etc i had a brand new OEM waterpump in Cyprus from years back and flew to Cyprus determined that the cooling issue has to be resolved I got hit by food poisoning on day 1 and Bronchitis on day 2 so i spent most of the days at home but the car is at my house so it was ok i guess so I initially pressurized the cap on a coolant pressure test kit. No issues there I pressurize the entire cooling system. No issues there either So whats the easiest thing to change first for the sake of testing given my illness between the radiator and the waterpump even though both of them are actually pretty easy to replace. The Brand new MazMart waterpump; even though i was convinced that it cant be that; and why would it? its a brand new water pump... so i pretty much drained the radiator to make the least mess possible, replaced the waterpump with the OEM one I immediately noticed that my coolant temps kept dropping even after the fans would turn off at ~84 C degrees. my fans are set to be a temperature hysteresis firing the fans at 87C and turn them off when they drop to 84C. so previously it would drop to about 83C-84C only for the fans to kick back on seconds later So this time around, It would even drop to 77C while sitting idle and that looked promising. So i kept bleeding the system only to realize that the system was fully bled about half to one hour later I tried to bleed it the next day too, the system was perfectly bled So i took the car for a ride and examine the behavior on a very steep incline towards the mountains (roads there are empty) and since everything seemed fine, i drove it like i stole it. It never exceeded the 90C and cruising back, the coolant temp was at 69C degrees. Now these are the numbers i am used to seeing So If you have the MazMart waterpump and you are suffering from strange cooling behavior. it is time to throw this garbage in the trash and never look back. Like i mentioned before. It may be an isolated event but thanks MazMart for ruining it for me! I have previously installed the Re-medy Waterpump which is the same but i don't recall having issues; but this was good 15 years ago (or something like that) The current pump looks perfectly fine in appearance. not sure if it was slipping at higher RPM. |
Wow that's quite a rabbit hole to go down Costas! Glad you figured it out. Come to think of it I can't even remember if mine is a REmedy or Mazmart.
|
Originally Posted by ptrhahn
(Post 12545562)
Wow that's quite a rabbit hole to go down Costas! Glad you figured it out. Come to think of it I can't even remember if mine is a REmedy or Mazmart.
i am not surprised you read this rant of mine but i doubt others will 🤣 i am doing some work on the car right now i will post further updates soon |
We definitely read it :)
I have the RE-medy for 12 years now. knock on wood... |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:47 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands