I have the FJO kit and need to tap into the RPM signal, ignition switched +12VDC, etc.

Where are those with AI modules tapping into these signals ?

Inside the car, near the engine ECU, keeping the FJO module inside the car and running lines to the nozzles, MAP & boost sensor.

Or:

Outside in the engine bay ? If so where are you tapping ?

Somewhere else ?

Any pics ?

Thanks,
:-) neil

 

Found this so far:

I connected the TPS (throttle position sensor) to black and green wire "pin 3G" on to the ECU.

And the RPM to the yellow and blue 2B on the ECU. ( Maybe it was green and blue).
Someone mentioned using the ignitor wire.

 

the module should probably be in the engine compartment since it utilizes a boost reference. see pics of my install in this section.

rpm taps into the green/red wire at the igniter. (the lead plugs)

TPS connects to 3G on ECU (B/G)

12 V switched... i use an elec port over near your left foot toes. it is in a cream colored plastic panel. you will need a multimeter or a tone probe to find it. it is on only when the ignition key is turned. you will need a spade connector.

my pump is connected thru a relay to the battery which is in the rear pass compartment. (short wire to pump). ground from pump is connected to the neg term battery.

hc

 

So after reading a couple different threads, this is the conclusion I've come to as far as TPS and RPM...

-TPS will go to the black and green ECU wire at pin 3G
-RPM should be used as opposed to MAP, or the other way around? If RPM, it will go to the yellow and blue ECU wire at pin 2B (instead of the red and green wire at the igniter, since the tach signal is cleaner?
-The ignition power wires for the controller and injector solenoid can go either to the applicable wire on the ECU or to the fuse box by the left foot with spade connectors?

And a few other questions...

-Since I'm using an AVC-R instead of the FJO boost solenoid, do I disregard that wiring, or do I need to splice it into the wiring for the AVC-R boost solenoid?
-Do I need to hook up the Arm/Mode wire to anything, or is that strictly for the FJO boost controller? Is this needed to power the whole system for any reason?
-On the pump relay, to me it looks like the diagram is saying the wires coming from 85 and 30 need to be connected, then connected to 12v through a 15a fuse. Is this correct? Or are those wires not to be connected?
-Do I need to hook up the vacuum line coming from the controller box, or is that only if I'm using MAP instead of RPM? Basically, do I need to have them both hooked up? Will it hurt the system if I have them both hooked up and I'm only supposed to have one hooked up?

 

I'm answering your PM question in this thread to benefit others.

Please see the attached JPEG that shows which connectors & pins has the RPM and TPS signals.
NOTE: I have a NEW harness, and the wire color did NOT match, but the pin-out was correct.

Per FJO, you will want to use MAP vs RPM, not TPS.
I hooked-up the TPS just because I was there, but did NOT select in the FJO configuration.

I hooked-up up the "ARM" wire to ground. Later I'll install an ON-OFF-ON switch which will switch it between ground and +12VDC so I can have a two AI maps.

If you have your own boost-controller, there is NO need to hook-up the FJO boost controller.

On the relay, 85 and 30 are connected to each other and FUSED +12VDC feeds it.

You MUST hook-up the vacuum line from the FJO so it can read MAP against RPM.

Neil

 

OK cool, thanks.

I hooked up TPS and RPM where your diagram said, and I hooked up a vacuum line for MAP too. Did you run yours off of your actual MAP sensor vacuum line, or did you just use a different one? I hooked the ARM up to ground for now as well.

Also, the ignition wires for the injector nozzle and the WMI2 controller box, I have them fused like it says in the directions, but I hooked them to the same spade connector and hooked it up in the one at the top of the fuse box by the clutch pedal. I'm hoping that won't be a problem being hooked to the same connector, but I already have a couple wires coming from the ECU ignition power wire and I'm trying not to hook too many things at the same place. And I hooked the 12v wire for the water pump into the other spade connection at the top of that same fuse box by the clutch pedal. I haven't checked it yet to see if it gets ignition power, but I'll do that tomorrow night.

Are you saying the relay already has 85 and 30 hooked together? Or I'm supposed to do that myself? I already did it anyway, but I can always change it if I need to.

Now I just have to install my Kenne Bell boost-a-pump, and I'll be ready for a new tune with a new turbo! Well, I have to figure out why my knock is so high at anything other than idle, but I suspect it's either the loud exhaust and/or Noltec engine mounts. I'm running pretty rich right now, so I'm sure it's not actual knock.

 

The supplied relay is to provide power to the pump. You have to connect 85 & 30, it is NOT done for you.

I used another relay to provide power to the injector.

Both relays get +12VDC directly from the battery positive and are appropriately fused.

I Tee'd off the UIM vacuum port that feeds my boost gauge.

With the 10-ga. wiring and relay to the pump, I measured no voltage drop when the pump was on and 2300 RPM.

BTW: I'm thinking of getting another in-line MAP air-filter to feed the FJO . . .

:-) neil

 

Thanks Neil!

I used a nipple on the end of the UIM for my controller. I heard it's not as good of a source as closer to the TB but I didn't want to run off the boost gauge for fear I wouldn't get as good a reading either.

You didn't happen to get the never-ending beep when you started your car after installation did you? LOL I'm getting the tone that normally tells me my coolant is low, but it isn't. I suspect I messed something up when hooking the wires up to the ECU harness.

 

You're welcome.

Nope, I didn't get any tone. I'd give FJO a call.

Their tech support is good.

:-) neil

 

I found out why I have the prolonged beep now. Yesterday I had discovered that the little black box next to the left foot, near the fuse box, was unplugged so I plugged it back in. I unplugged it today while the beep was going off and it stopped. The problem is I have no idea how long that has been unplugged because I never unplugged it. So I don't know what is causing it. I checked the coolant level sensor and it's good, and I have full coolant, so that's not it. And I've looked at the RPM wire from the ECU and it's good too.

I also discovered another drain on my battery, a HUGE one this time. I found one a few weeks ago and it turned out to be my gauges (5 STRI gauges with peak and hold, so it's pulling power to retain the settings I guess), and my messed up driver's door lock, a wire in there is cut and when I unplugged it the test light went off.

I took out every single fuse from the inside and engine bay, except for the one for the gauges (all the gauges are unplugged anyway) and the light remained on. I'm really stumped on this one.

Sorry to hijack Neil, I just figured you might have an idea.

 

Take a picture of the "black box" that you plugged back in.

I'm wondering if it's the anti-theft module . . .

:-) neil

 

Actually it could be, since I don't have any of that stuff hooked up anymore. I'll take a pic of it tomorrow night.

I'm still stumped on this draw on power.

 

Had some extra time this morning.

It says "C.P.U.", "Turn Signals" and "Hazards/'Flashers" on it in different places. I don't have my front bumper/turn signals on right now so that may be it. I'll connect it tonight and see if that fixes it. But I still have a huge draw on the system and I have no idea where that's coming from.