da#$ i left the plug at work again. i think it is a small engine plug but thats not the number on it. the 7s are going to over heat the intake charge with 15 pound of boost. there way to hot. all turbo charged cars running a big single turbo with boost over 10 pound need to run a colder plug. your going to blow the motor . if you run the nines only you should see a very big all around diffrence in the way the car runs. my tuner ray at pf supercars turned me on to the 10s. there cheep and work great. with how much you will have to change the plugs it helps.

 

they dont have to be grounded. and they come pre gapped. just put them in. the number of the plug NGK B10EGV.

 

Those plugs seem to be very controversial because they are not resistor-type, some say they can cause interference with the crank signal, etc., but I've heard of many Aus and US shops run them with no issues.

 

+1 on that, Trots. I don't like the non-resistor types either.

B

 

i dont know if it was said already i dont want to look through 4 pages but i have heard if you put a nozzle before the turbo then it will eat away at the turbo wheel because of the high speed of the turbo hitting the water vapors, essentially erroding the turbo wheel.

 

I think it depends a lot on the car and engine management on whether or not you will have issues. I've never seen anyone use them and have motor failure SPECIFICALLY due to them. However, with an EMS like Haltech, and the issues they have with Crank signal as it is, I wouldn't want to put these in there too, just more fuel to the fire.

 

I have one time Trots. Haltech system; crank trigger interference, kaboom.

B

 

Oh, didn't know you were running non-resistors.

 

Oh no, not me Trots... I know of a car that had a blown motor from using non-resistor plugs with a Haltech.

B

 

i run a tec3r electromotive. i havent had any problems at all. they work great. i had a haltech and chucked it in a dumpster some where after i blow my 3rd motor.

 

the motec shoud work fine with them.

 

I'd be cautious with proper shielding of the signal wiring (that's a given) and try to keep them as seperate as possible, just in case.

 

Sure it will, but at what rate? Especially with a little M2 jet?
I have seen NO wear on my blade what so ever and I've been running the pre-compressor jet for 4000 miles... Of coarse, not all of that is in boost.
I should also mention that if I point the jet towards the incoming air, it will atomize better and flow through the compressor at much smaller particle size.

The M10 jet would surely eat your blade away at a faster rater, but I've done hours of comparison swapping jets out. The pre-compressor jet (even the smallest size) makes more difference than an M10 post-compressor.

My conclusion is, if I get the results I want (below ambient temps in boost) then I am willing to replace my blade every 4-6 years. I'll be sure to let everyone know when I replace my first one.

 

Good call. How many people say no to porting due to the fact that it could shorten an engine's life? How about doubling, tripling a stock engine's output. That definitely will shorten an engine's life. People do it every day, yet people are skeptical about replacing a compressor blade every few years for the sake of performance?

 

All your examples are great. And I think there is a common answer to any of those nay-sayers:

If you are planning to modify your car, be prepared to pay the price.

If you are looking for cheap power, your engine will blow. That is the price you will pay.

If you are looking for reliable power, you shop bill will be through the roof. That is the price you pay.

 

Yeah, I forget who's sig it was, but said "the cheaper way ends up costing you more money, the faster way usually ends up taking more time". Classic.

 

how can u point it towards incoming air? have a pic? im ditching my dual m10s and goin m2 preturbo and m7 post. running 50/50

 

running the meth at the end of your intercooler right before the charge tube is just as good as anything else. it all depends on how big your turbo is and how much boost your running. if you are running more boost with a big turbo run two nossels. there is no such thing as cheep hp. you will always pay in the end. i tell all my customers to site down and right down what they wont to do with there car, before we get started on the car. you need to find out what you wont before you do anything. then you run the numbers. then you add 25% to to the end number and that is what it will cost to do what they wont. the thing is, is there is always the little things that add up. like fitting and such.

 

This is what I am running.

i dont have any pics. Mine is not angled currently, but you just angle the fitting when you weld it in place.

 

The pic he's posted a few times of the turbo and intake....

look at it.........

and notice how the fitting is installed on the pipe........

its quite obvious.....

 

The post compressor jet still needs to be angled, but this one is pointed down, towards the incoming air.

 

where is ur iat located?

 

@tb

 

compression tube? got a close pic?

 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_AEAL2Ej4Lg...00-h/rx178.jpg

This is the best pic I could find