lots of good info here. thanks all for sharing

 

Thanks for sharing some of your experiences on WI, I've been really interested in building an FD with heavy boost on PUMP for over a year now and would like to go with straight water and no meth for many reasons. Please PM me and keep me informed asto your progress when you get around to finishing your car bro... thanks


~ Kayvon



PS; Can you tell me a little more about your set-up? Year/make, turbo, boost levels on pump, ECU, ign, inj's, etc, etc.. thanks

 

im running post turbo now with hopefully a pre turbo soon. running pure water scares me a bit. at least i know the alcohol is like a fuel.

have u tried mixing them? or have only stuck to water?

 

100% water.
No need to be scared.

It works like a champ.

My setup is nothing special

Engine:
Factory cosmo RE engine
8 dowells Per face(done by me)
NO PORTING
Rotor And Gear bearings have been modified
S6 Oil pressure regulator
Rotors them selves are FACTORY untouched.
Running 3mm Rotary Aviation Super Seal
Solid 3mm Mazda Corner Seals

Turbo:
Raceonly GT4202 with .91 T6 Rear(this is one of our first inhouse Ball Bearing Manufactured Turbos and i have been testing it for a while on my car).(we made the core, inlet and wheel and exhaust wheel, moulds for the front cover and rear housing are not complete yet so using garret parts. Everything else we made.

Inlet:
Factory Cosmo Inlets Untouched and standard in every way possible

Fuel:

2X Raceonly 044 Fuel pumps
1X Raceonly Fuel reg
6X1700cc Bosch Indys

Ignition

4X R7420 11 heat range spark plugs(thanks rice racing).
2 X Crane hi-6 boxes and lx92 coils
2X Mazda trailing coils
1 Microtech X4 box

ECU
Microtech Lt10s 4 bar map sensor, 12000rpm map etc

Exhaust

Manifold is NOT tuned length, as short as physically possible with having the steering box in the most annoying place, have the wastegate venting from the collector near the turbo flange, and holds a solid flat line 30psi.
Raceonly 60mm Wastegate.
3.5inch Mild Steel Exhaust with hand made resonator and muffler


Water injection
Coolingmist 150psi pump(250psi pump on its way soon)
1150cc jet Pre Turbo
Triggered by Eboost auxillary
Very primitive system runs flat out all the time.
Comes on at 8psi.

Car makes 543rwhp as of its last dyno session, i dont have any dyno sheets for the last bit of tuning i did, last dyno sheet i printed out was a long time ago 511rwhp.
Running 12:1 Afrs in some areas, tune was not finished, deeps into the low 11s over 7500rpm.
I dont recommend many people run the above afrs with 30psi, i had no choice just too much water. But jet is getting changed.


Here are some pictures




I hope that goes into enough detail.

 

wow nice setup. whats cc compared to gph?

 

19gph

 

HOLY COW PRETURBO?! @_@

im running 10gph post, at one time was running dual 10s with 70%water on factoy plugs and coils and didnt really noticeable a stumble. comes on at 5 psi, full blast at 10 psi. since then i have removed one.

 

Update - I leaned out all my boost areas by .2. So, I am now running 550cc water at 16psi with 11.0 A/Fs. The AEM kit I have is progressive, so it comes on at 0PSI and increases to 100% at 16psi. There is no dyno on my island so I cant prove this with numbers, but I've made multiple 3rd and 4th gear pulls and can definitely fell a power diffrence. I can tell that I am getting a complete burn. Power comes on smooth and strong. Knock readings are 25ish in the high boost and RPM areas. Intake air temps droping around 15c with the water on full blast.

For anyone with my mods or similar, I would recomend you start with a 300cc injector, tune with normal pump gas A/F's, then move up to a 550cc and fine tune like I did. Worked like a charm.

 

That's why I use straight water. Its more practical for me. Meth is hard to get and costs $6 a gallon where I live and, I have a VERY heavy foot.

 

Happy their are more tight ***** like me around lol

 

doesnt straight water leave deposits behind?

 

Nope.

 

That looks neat, rx72c!

My concern with doing the pre-turbo injection has been the notion of corrosion. Have you done this setup for a very long time, on this same turbo, to see any of that kind of negative effect or do you know of anyone who's run into that?

B

 

I haven't been running pre turbo water for long but show zero turbo erosion over the last several months. I can see where the water has been flowing at the inlet it kinda has a swirl mark but its just dried water spots no erosion.

 

I have a customer car that has been running it on his 35r for close to a year now.

0 DAMAGE TO THE WHEEL.

He has been running the same amount of water as me up until recently. Did some changes to the car, smaller jet, shsv valve and haltech platinum 1000 so will be on dyno soon to try and break the 500rwhp with 35r.

 

Hmmm. Not to be argumentative then, but why am I reading and hearing things about compressor erosion then?

B

 

Because people talk ****.

They think it will do it, so you get e-know it alls that say, oh **** you cant do it cause youll get erosion.

then you find all the people that try it, you dont get a single one with a problem.

their is a shot of my compressor wheel in the above photo.
Show me where the pitting or corrosion is.

 

Older systems that didn't atomize the water properly had compressor erosion. I suppose any system that isn't designed with this in mind could have issues. Better nozzle designs and higher pressures with pump type systems helps keep the water atomized. My system for instance comes out in a fine mist even though it's a low pressure system due to the nozzle design. I researched this extensively before putting together my kit. Another thing i read about a factory preturbo system was even when turbo's had erosion it didn't effect the performance of the turbo, this was on some car built in the late 80's. Don't recall the make and model. But really with a proper system design compressor wheel damage isn't an issue.

 

That rhetorically counts for a huge percentage of stuff found on forums in the first place. It's why I try hard to take a stance on only listening to those that actually do something or try it myself. I'd rather fail at something and know of a wrong way to do something than not.

I don't see any pitting or corrosion on it but in all fairness the picture in and of itself doesn't tell the whole story. It's why I'm asking because I'm curious about long-term use and whether or not this corrosion problem is really a problem or something that some folks, who've not actually tried this stuff, came up with out of thin air.

B

 

I believe that. Sounds good. Maybe it'll motivate me to add a small nozzle pre-turbo during this next hot-air iteration of mine and see if it produces any benefits.

B

 

As far as i have seen.
No problems what so ever.

Now with 250psi pumps and even better jets the likely hood of pitting on comp wheels is decreasing.

 

just ordered my 2gph nozzle now i need a mini intake to screw nozzle on.