DIY tank considerations for a track car... Also, nozzle sizing?
#1
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
DIY tank considerations for a track car... Also, nozzle sizing?
I am looking into getting an AEM water/meth injection system mostly for cooling.
The AEM tanks are quite pricey, and considering my location, the tank would probably increase the price of shipping quite a bit.
Is there some reason I can't use a $5 10-liter drinking water tank instead of spending 20 times that much on a dedicated unit?
Perhaps it wouldn't be strong enough under g-loads? Or maybe it would crack due to UV exposure within a year?
Also, I am curious about sizing. My sessions typically don't last longer than 20 minutes, so at 500 cc per minute, the five-gallon tank would probably be overkill, but the one-gallon might be a bit small.
However, I have heard that rotaries actually prefer more injection per horsepower than piston engines. What would be the most effective volume for ~300 rwhp (something like 340 flywheel)?
For the record, I would be using 40% methanol windshield washer spray, since that actually turns out to be cheaper than buying distilled/purified water here.
The AEM tanks are quite pricey, and considering my location, the tank would probably increase the price of shipping quite a bit.
Is there some reason I can't use a $5 10-liter drinking water tank instead of spending 20 times that much on a dedicated unit?
Perhaps it wouldn't be strong enough under g-loads? Or maybe it would crack due to UV exposure within a year?
Also, I am curious about sizing. My sessions typically don't last longer than 20 minutes, so at 500 cc per minute, the five-gallon tank would probably be overkill, but the one-gallon might be a bit small.
However, I have heard that rotaries actually prefer more injection per horsepower than piston engines. What would be the most effective volume for ~300 rwhp (something like 340 flywheel)?
For the record, I would be using 40% methanol windshield washer spray, since that actually turns out to be cheaper than buying distilled/purified water here.
Last edited by Valkyrie; 07-05-24 at 12:18 AM.
#2
As a SIMPLE rule of thumb, use a factor of 100 ml/min (cc = ml) for every 100 hp achieved when running a 50/50 WM mixture. This amount approximates to 1.5 gph nozzle capacity per 100 hp. If using WATER only, go with 1 gph nozzle capacity for every 100 hp produced.
Note: These are GENERAL starting points for the under 20 psi crowd considering variable factors of differing mfr pump pressures & nozzle flow ratings offered; more prudent to start at the minimal end, and work your way up as applicable.
Note: These are GENERAL starting points for the under 20 psi crowd considering variable factors of differing mfr pump pressures & nozzle flow ratings offered; more prudent to start at the minimal end, and work your way up as applicable.
Last edited by Topolino; 07-05-24 at 08:11 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Valkyrie (07-05-24)
#3
Full Member
Also consider fluid slosh. I have an AEM 5 gallon mounted sideways under/forward of rear strut bar. When it is under 2.5 gallons the pump experiences cavitation. Since my pump is in the bin floor board area I'm planning a quart or 1/2 gallon intermediate tank between main tank and pump in hopes of solving the cavitation problem.
#4
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
As a SIMPLE rule of thumb, use a factor of 100 ml/min (cc = ml) for every 100 hp achieved when running a 50/50 WM mixture. This amount approximates to 1.5 gph nozzle capacity per 100 hp. If using WATER only, go with 1 gph nozzle capacity for every 100 hp produced.
Note: These are GENERAL starting points for the under 20 psi crowd considering variable factors of differing mfr pump pressures & nozzle flow ratings offered; more prudent to start at the minimal end, and work your way up as applicable.
Note: These are GENERAL starting points for the under 20 psi crowd considering variable factors of differing mfr pump pressures & nozzle flow ratings offered; more prudent to start at the minimal end, and work your way up as applicable.
#5
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Also consider fluid slosh. I have an AEM 5 gallon mounted sideways under/forward of rear strut bar. When it is under 2.5 gallons the pump experiences cavitation. Since my pump is in the bin floor board area I'm planning a quart or 1/2 gallon intermediate tank between main tank and pump in hopes of solving the cavitation problem.
#7
Late to the thread but my power is about the same as your’s and I used the same formula as Topolino posted….and using an M3 nozzle on a boost activated system set at about 1.5 psi. My tank is the stock windshield washer reservoir which, iirc, is about 2.5 liters. I usually use just distilled water for cooling, carbon and knock suppression. I don’t usually track the car but went to one event a couple years ago. Sessions were about 20 minutes and my low fluid level sensor only came on once out of the three sessions I ran.
I was going to use a small stock rear washer tank that I bought cheap and ‘T’ into the line feeding the pump for additional capacity (also lowest point), but never saw a need as the front tank typically lasts about a half tank of gas on the street.
Obviously if you tuned with it, go big, but….
I was going to use a small stock rear washer tank that I bought cheap and ‘T’ into the line feeding the pump for additional capacity (also lowest point), but never saw a need as the front tank typically lasts about a half tank of gas on the street.
Obviously if you tuned with it, go big, but….
Last edited by Sgtblue; 09-07-24 at 08:50 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Richard L
Auxiliary Injection
25
01-08-10 05:06 PM