The OP's description of his car in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=pump+location is almost identical to mine. About 300 whp with stock twins, (near) stock boost on a primarily street driven car. My goals were also very similar. First, I wanted the benefits of cooling, knock suppression and reduced carbon on a functioning OMP augmented with premix. Second, I wanted to keep things low-key and DID NOT want to locate components inside the car. Potential for noise and vibration and taking up room just didn't appeal.
With all that in mind I chose a simple boost-activated system and currently run only distilled water....but may move to water/alcohol eventually. Obviously the two main components that present packaging issues are the pump and tank. For the tank I chose to utilize the stock windshield washer tank similar to this thread (credit to adamrs80): https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/aem-water-injection-install-write-up-883642/ . TANK problem solved. It holds about 2/3 of a gallon and with my M5 nozzle and typical street driving it lasts as long as 1/2 to almost 3/4 of a tank of gas. Since I don't like to run lower than 1/4 tank, I just fill it everytime I fuel up.
Now for the PUMP.... I read several threads here detailing how some touring/base owners mounted the pump where the second oil cooler would normally be. Others used space where their A/C compressor or PS pumps were formally located. The first isn't an option since I have an R1. And I'm old and like my AC and PS, so removing it for the room that wasn't an option either. So...I put the car up on the lift and started looking and found out there is a nice little space just above the aft driver's side of the engine cross-member, just below where the steering shaft exits the firewall.

First picture is looking toward the front of the car. The second toward the rear. Using 1/8" sheet stock I simply fabbed a bracket with counter-sunk studs. Then used a wire brush and drill to clean a small area and tack-welded the bracket to the frame rail just above the crossmember. I also just sprayed a bit of rattle-can undercoating back over the bare metal.



This picture shows how protected it is...just above the rear portion of the crossmember


A shot showing that access to plugs and anything else in that area isn't affected.



My pump is a COOLINGMIST, but looking at pictures of the other manufacturer's pumps, there would be ample room regardless of brand. This location also has some other advantages....(1) It's low. Lower than the stock washer tank and lower than just about anywhere else I could conceive a custom tank being mounted. So self-priming isn't an issue. (2) There's great air-flow in this location. (3) It's on the cool side of the engine (4) It's protected from debris and road hazards and (5) It's accessible without restricting access to anything else.
I've also found that with the rubber insulator "feet" that come on the pump and mounting it on such a solid part of the car, there is absolutely NO vibration. It's silent.

 

I'm diggin' this location. I might change mine to this and just use the front tank as well. Pretty awesome.

 

^Thanks Speedjunkie.
Recently I got some inquiries about this install, including routing of the lines etc. and found some pictures that might help. Instead of PM'ing them I figured I'd just add them to the original thread. Pretty straight-forward and intuitive. The pump being mounted so close to both the tank and nozzle location means there isn't much line to route...which I think is good. Hope this helps with the questions, but if not, let me know.

Everything is pretty stealth...I've only had a couple of people with sharp eyes even ask about the nozzle....






You can just see the top of the pump sticking out below. And at the left you can just see where I mounted my check valve/filter in the line between the pump and nozzle.

BTW, I bought some inexpensive expandable loom cover from the local Radio Shack when I picked up my two LEDs and put it over the opaque fluid lines. In addition to adding a little protection, I liked the look a little better...personal taste.

 

I think I'm gonna tackle this when I get back from SevenStock. Do you have any pics of what you used to tap into the tank? What size is the feed line to the pump? Is it larger than the exit line? Mine is 3/8" and I'm thinking of doing a stainless steel 90* compression fitting so I can fit it at the bottom of the fluid tank.

Do you have a fluid level sensor in the tank also? If so, what kind, how is it mounted, etc?

And most importantly, how did you actually install the mount bolts for the pump? Did you drill and tap some holes? Did you drill and install riv-nuts? I'd like that option but I'm not sure if riv-nuts will hold the weight of the pump. If I knew how you did it, I wouldn't be so sheepish about starting this job lol. I'm just worried about whatever I use not holding the pump and then it falls out while I'm driving or something lol.

No matter what, I can't resist doing this change. It's a fantastic location for the pump. I can't see a single drawback of this, other than the possibility of not mounting the pump securely enough lol.

 

Here is another thread where Dale Clark installs his pump is the same general location.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...ll-woo-960157/

 

i use that location as well. not many places that work on the FD. if the a/c is removed i put it on the frame where the compressor used to be.

 

Filtered self-sealing tank tap ---> Self Sealing Bulk Head
All of the line is the same diameter....IIRC 1/4". Seems to be standard size and all the push-connections are the same.
And yes, I put a fluid level sensor (float switch) in the stock WS washer tank. ---> Self Sealing Float Switch
The float-switch lights up a red LED next to my 'A' Pillar mounted temp gauge. There's also a green LED that lights up when the pump comes on-line.
I used the EXACT same locations for the tank tap and float-switch as Adamsrs80 as linked to above. Just be careful to use those locations with these fittings and they won't interfere with each other, or interfere with anything when re-installing the tank to the car. I prefer that tank tap at the bottom over some others I've seen, because it gravity feeds the line going to the pump and doen't rely on syphon. If you use a syphon tap (goes in from the top of the tank) it seems like it would be a bitch to prime if you ever ran out. It also seals really well and I've no issues with leaking since install.
The other thing I remember doing is being really careful to clean out the stock washer tank. Mine had a little sentiment etc. built up over the years and some plastic shavings from when I drilled it. I didn't want that stuff to get into the in-line filter or nozzle.
I don't have pics. I had some fairly hefty sheetmetal lying around..~ 1/8" thick stuff which is roughly double thickness of the typical car sheetmetal. I cut a rectangle piece out big enough to drill four holes in that would correspond to the mounting 'feet' of my Coolingmist pump. Went to the hardware store and bought four screws, IIRC 10 X 1.5...same as all the other 10mm bolts on the car except these had flat ('V' or counter-sunk shaped) heads. On the back side of the plate I counter-sunk the holes so that when I put the screws in from the backside they laid flush with the plate and then tack-welded them into place. Using a wire brush on a drill I cleaned up the area where I wanted to put the plate. Paint is REALLY thin down there, so it cleaned easily. Sandpaper would also work. Then tack-welded the plate onto the frame (I always disconnect the battery from the car before welding). A couple tack-welds on either end is all it takes. Not much heat and it isn't going anywhere. Once the plate was set, a spritz'd a little rattle-can undercoating over any bare metal and slid the pump feet over the studs and used four 10mm bolts. Badda bing, Badda boom. Took less than an hour.
Yep. Looks like I set mine back a little farther aft than he did. That may be due to the dimensions of his pump, or because he chose to drill into the frame rail and use the riv-nuts. I also wanted to keep it out of the way of changing plugs etc.
I have a MIG welder and just felt fabbing up the plate with studs and tacking it to the frame was preferable and easier over DC's method.

 

easier to just use a pilot and self tapping bolt/screws and screw it right to the frame rail. i'm sure some people are concerned about weakness to the frame doing so but the holes are tiny and the frame isn't a solid piece anyways.

 

^Easy? If you don't have a welder available, absolutely. That's pretty heavy gauge and those pumps aren't that heavy. But IIRC it was a little tight to get a drill up there to drill the holes where I wanted them. Personal preference.

 

I don't have a welder handy and I haven't done any welding. However, if I can get ahold of one, my roommate can use his welding experience and tack it on there for me haha. I'm going to finish reading through your post. Thanks!

 

yes i understand, it was pretty tight even with the shorty 90 degree pneumatic drill i use.

 

I gotta get me one of those. There's been two or three times just this summer I wished I had one.

 

I do have a 90 degree pneumatic drill, but I wasn't sure if riv-nuts would hold strong enough for the weight of the pump. Do you guys think they would hold? If so, I'll do that.

 

I think they would. But you could check with Dale Clark and see how his are holding up.

 

I guess you're right lol.

 

I've had a couple of people contact me about the lost pictures. Here they are again in the order I referred to them above in the original posts. And one correction in my first post. Can't believe I never saw it before, but I run a M3 nozzle NOT an M5 as I said above. Hope this helps. ...

Looking toward front:



Looking toward the rear:



Looking from the side:



Looking up:



POST #3