Please some one give me some triks or tips for tune the AEM EMS ecu in my 1993 rx-7 street ported with 3mm apex seal.

I realy don't won't to blow my engine , I only have one chanse to make this , please some one help me to understand what is a safe level to work in my RX-7 and how is the best way to tune it .

Less timing in the ignicion? , trailing leading? more fuel?
What I have to do?

I know the basic but I don't know how to aplicate this on a Wankel Engine.

Please help

 

lol, from Chile. I was about to go-off on the spelling. I understand, im sure it looks like **** when I write German. As for the ECU, sorry bud. Buy a PFC and I could help. I think you will get that from most of us on here.

 

meaby if you tell me the basics of the rotary engine and the basic on the Ecu that you use , i can try to understand how to tune the AEM EMS?

 

What are your mods !? The map that's up on the forums @ AEM isn't half bad to start out with, but you then need to start looking at your AFR Ignition timeing, and Boost.

AFR and Ignition principles, theories, as how much advance to run where are the same, PFC / AEM, the difference is where you drop those numbers in the software....

The problem with aem is there are way to many menus, that can do very advanced stuff, that power FC people don't even have access to it unless they have a datalogit, and even then I'd be suprised if they have all the sub menus for setting up all the electrical stuff you can set on teh AEM, the seacret is to leave all that allone, unless you know what you're affecting, the base maps have 90% of that setup correctly for a rotary... It's like your registry on your PC, you only go there if something's "F"'d up ... Read through the Power FC forums, and try to gain an understanding on what to weak when, and then look through the docs on the AEM and find the same thing....

 

If you've tuned a standalone on any other car, this will be just about the same. Tell us what your Mods are, so we can get an idea of what is needed here. I know when I first got the ecu, the car wouldn't start, because I needed to ad about 20% fuel to the warm-up enrichment table below 140 degrees Farenheit. Also, I had to take a shitload of fuel out under vacuum for cruising, because it was so rich.
If you have a wideband, and have tuned another car, this won't be THAT hard. Just stick to the main fuel map for your adjustments, and remember that there are two ingnition maps, the main map, and the map for the trailing plugs, which shows the difference between the timing of the leading and trailing.

 

My car is engine is new , it has been rebuild by Pettit Racing and it was street race ported,hurley 3mm rotors, 3mm aphex seals ,jets e-shaft mod, big body throtle, Pettit Type 3 really big intercooler,3" down pipe, nipon denso 3 degres cooler spark plugs and Atkins e-shaft pellet and of course the AEM EMS.

If I work with 10 a/f ratio and no less and no more that 10 psi of boost with the standar ignition setup, there is eny posibility of blow my engine?

Because I can't aford another engine like the one that I have.

What is the correct way to mod the ignition in the rotary engine?
Because it have trailing an leading ignition setup
I have to retard bouth , or only one?

 

What you want to avoid, is negative split, where the trailing plugs fire before the leading ones...

I feel for you as far as the engine goes, the problem is that any bad tuning mistake can blow your motor... given that you have 3mm seals, you bough yourself some wiggle room... If I had nobody to tune my 7 I'd tune with the wideband o2 and knock sensor on all the time...

There is a feature (turned off by default) on the Aem, which will retard your ignition should it sense knock, this is typically turned off due to the tuner, should know how to tune and what to watch for, and you don't want to tune it and fight the computer that's trying to retard ignition, and you dialing in more fuel and sparc... the two will end up canceling eachother out... and the engine could be the looser...

But since you sound inexperienced, I would turn it on, so no matter what you'll end up saving your motor, and you might look foolish on the track, but your engine will stay safe...