Trigger setup issues on new modular
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Trigger setup issues on new modular
Hey guys, I'm currently setting up my new engine and new modular ecu trying to get as much knowledge as I can on this issue I'm having. The car just will not start, and theres a couple of things I am noticing that aren't right.
1. The tach reads 3000rpm while cranking
2. While cranking it randomly cuts power to the whole car, it feels like the engine tries to spin backwards and I think my basemap timing is way off.
3. My trigger wheel was slightly bent, I straightened it out and will replace it with a new one as soon as I find one locally.
Would I be wise to just try using the adaptronic made basemap for a s6 rx7? I noticed my basemap from the dealer and the stock basemap from adaptronic have completely different settings. This is my basemap attached.
1. The tach reads 3000rpm while cranking
2. While cranking it randomly cuts power to the whole car, it feels like the engine tries to spin backwards and I think my basemap timing is way off.
3. My trigger wheel was slightly bent, I straightened it out and will replace it with a new one as soon as I find one locally.
Would I be wise to just try using the adaptronic made basemap for a s6 rx7? I noticed my basemap from the dealer and the stock basemap from adaptronic have completely different settings. This is my basemap attached.
#2
It is not going to hurt anything to try the OEM base map settings FYI( if you are just trying those settings). If you want to use the OEM base map you can too, as long as you change your injector and or coil settings( I haven't looked at your base map that is attached, so if you are direct fire, change that over, its one simple click).
#3
not sure why your rpm reading is showing 3000 rpm, might want to check to make sure your trigger connectors are on the right triggers getting them backwards might cause this.
sounds like maybe you have some wiring issues if you lose all electrical power to the car but your base timing looks pretty reasonable if not a little too conservative.
you may want to turn off timing lock after verifying the crank trigger connections. get the engine running and idling then timing lock and verify the marks with a timing light.
after a quick glance through the ecu setting it looks reasonable for a stock port engine to start up on.
sounds like maybe you have some wiring issues if you lose all electrical power to the car but your base timing looks pretty reasonable if not a little too conservative.
you may want to turn off timing lock after verifying the crank trigger connections. get the engine running and idling then timing lock and verify the marks with a timing light.
after a quick glance through the ecu setting it looks reasonable for a stock port engine to start up on.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I’ve actually found out what was going on I think. The CAS shares the ground back to the ecu. I found the ground signal back between cas 2 and ecu broken. So my CAS 2 was getting it’s ground backfed through CAS 1 and it was seeing each window in the trigger wheel as the rpm reference tang on the outside of the trigger wheel. So we wiggled the wires and it would read the rpm correctly. Wiggle again and it would be all over the place. I’m going to replace that connector and wiring and see what happens and if all is well I’ll be in the market for a new harness.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So I did manage to fix the wiring and get the car to start, and it actually started quite easily considering it had never started up to this point. However I’m having a similar issue with the tach. The engine seems to be losing its rpm reference shortly after starting. Any ideas?
#7
hard to tell what is going on from that. watch eugene when you start it and make sure you are getting steady readings there. try getting it to start and idle then figure the tach out.
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#8
Junior Member
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it unfortunately won’t stay running. I plugged in Eugene and the rpm is still all over the place. It holds for a couple seconds then jumps around and the engine stalls. I’m sure it’s a loose connection or something along those lines
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
old oem harness, grounds are stock. CAS sensors grounds are spliced together at the oem splice in the harness a few inches from the ecu plugs. Then grounded at the chassis near where the ecu mounts. Battery grounded to chassis and engine grounded to battery/chassis. Then the 2 engine grounds from the harness are bolted to the upper intake manifold.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
old oem harness, grounds are stock. CAS sensors grounds are spliced together at the oem splice in the harness a few inches from the ecu plugs. Then grounded at the chassis near where the ecu mounts. Battery grounded to chassis and engine grounded to battery/chassis. Then the 2 engine grounds from the harness are bolted to the upper intake manifold.
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