Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS Plug-in and wire-in stand alone ECU's for RX-7's

Adaptronic Select ECU Direct Fire

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Old 04-06-15 | 02:06 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by OverEzzz
Is direct fire possible if running sequential turbos?
I don't see why one would negate the other unless there's some limitations with the I/O's on the Adaptronic units. I know a ton of customers running the Adaptronic with our direct fire harness with no issues... I just can't say if they were running sequential. I believe all of them tapped into the diagnostics box for the 4th trigger signal.

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Old 04-07-15 | 05:11 PM
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Sorry for being a noob, but I still don't quite understand direct fire. At what point is direct fire the better solution? Is it intended for street cars? Is an aftermarket crank sensor setup necessary to run direct fire? Do you have better resolution on ignition maps if running direct fire? If upgrading to AEM coils, would you reccomend direct fire to waste spark? If so, why?

Last edited by OverEzzz; 04-08-15 at 01:25 PM.
Old 04-08-15 | 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by OverEzzz
Sorry for being a noob, but I still don't quite get understand direct fire. At what point is direct fire the better solution? Is it intended for street cars? Is an aftermarket crank sensor setup necessary to run direct fire? Do you have better resolution on ignition maps if running direct fire? If upgrading to AEM coils, would you reccomend direct fire to waste spark? If so, why?
Direct fire means one coil per plug with sequential tiggering of the coils (only fires on the true ignition event). This allows more charge time and reduces heat load on the coils. It allows you to get more effective power from an inductive ignition setup on leading than in waste spark.

If you are running big rpm or decent boost and don't want to move to CDI it is advantageous vs waste spark.

You do not need an aftermarket triggering system to run direct fire.

Last edited by Slides; 04-08-15 at 12:46 AM.
Old 04-08-15 | 05:04 PM
  #29  
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SBGarage, Slides, thank you for the info!
Old 04-10-15 | 05:31 PM
  #30  
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I'm running sequential twins on a plug n play model with SBGarage's AEM coil setup.
Old 04-14-15 | 01:58 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by knotsonice
I'm running sequential twins on a plug n play model with SBGarage's AEM coil setup.
Is yours setup in direct fire? Unless otherwise specified we send them with a purple jumper wiring leading in waste spark, though if anyone leaves a note for direct-fire we simply don't include the jumper and give them a longer 4th signal wire to run to the diagnostics box to tap in

We've currently got the full kit on sale if anyone is looking for a setup
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Old 04-14-15 | 07:08 PM
  #32  
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Sorry Yes I'm running Direct fire.
Old 04-16-15 | 05:43 AM
  #33  
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Hi guys,

At the moment, we can't do direct fire and sequential turbo control at the same time, because of an output limitation. That is, AUX1 which is used for the sequential control gets disabled when you choose to go direct fire.

HOWEVER, if you choose to not to use a certain system that the Select ECU currently controls, then you can use that output to control the sequential instead.

Knotsonice, am I correct that you're running premix and therefore not using the OMP outputs, and used one of those to control the twins instead?

Cheers.
Old 04-17-15 | 10:44 AM
  #34  
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Yup pulled the OMP and using those outputs.
Old 10-23-15 | 11:07 PM
  #35  
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ok. so I have read a couple of times and would like to confirm something before I start this. I have AEM coils from sake bomb (sent them an email and they said "cut the purple wire, Last I saw, in the instructions from Adaptronic, yes you will. However, since we don't sell the Adaptronic ECU I can't help too much further with it but I know there's a how-to thread on the forum here."

so I am running a rywire harness and everything is removed but the harness still has OMP controls (which I don't use) I am wanting to run one of those unused wire from the ECU directly to the sake bomb harness and negate the diagnostic port wire patch.

how would I go about doing this and what pin on the ecu should I run the wire from.

Thanks
Old 10-24-15 | 12:04 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by austin102085
ok. so I have read a couple of times and would like to confirm something before I start this. I have AEM coils from sake bomb (sent them an email and they said "cut the purple wire, Last I saw, in the instructions from Adaptronic, yes you will. However, since we don't sell the Adaptronic ECU I can't help too much further with it but I know there's a how-to thread on the forum here."

so I am running a rywire harness and everything is removed but the harness still has OMP controls (which I don't use) I am wanting to run one of those unused wire from the ECU directly to the sake bomb harness and negate the diagnostic port wire patch.

how would I go about doing this and what pin on the ecu should I run the wire from.

Thanks
Sorry we can't help with the adaptronic side of the install, but to be clear the short purple wire on our harness is a jumper for L1/L2. When you cut this wire (or for those who requested a non jumpered version, L1 and L2 signals are separated and you will extend the BLUE wire we include coming off the Sumitomo connector for your last signal wire. Some send it through the diagnostics port, some extend a single wire back to the ecu.

As far as software settings and what pin it connects to at the ecu, someone in this thread should be able to help.
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Old 01-07-16 | 07:41 AM
  #37  
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Just changing over to direct fire and started to strip the ignition harness, I'm happy knowing which plug does what, however my question is, is this a standard harness or has it been modified as it appears to have a few splices in it.

Thanks in advance.



















Old 01-07-16 | 08:17 AM
  #38  
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Blue tape is a Mazda factory insulation. Also where you see the black tape near the ends of the connectors is where the shielding terminates.
Old 01-07-16 | 08:25 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DC5Daniel
Blue tape is a Mazda factory insulation. Also where you see the black tape near the ends of the connectors is where the shielding terminates.
Thanks for the information, I just wanted to make sure I started from factory before modifying anything.
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