Hi Folks,

This thread is for anyone who's new to the Adaptronic select in their Series 6 Rx7. I'm saying Series 6 as that's how our cars are referred to on the Adaptronic forums.

The goal is to create a quick start guide for anyone who's installing this ECU on their mostly stock car. For now the info will be in this thread. At some point I'll create a document and post it.

Here are the mods that I'm targeting for my first "finished" map:
DP, CB, stock cat, intake, BNR stage 3s, 1300cc secondaries, 50/50 water meth via Aquamist HFS5 tied to the secondaries for duty cycle, SMIC, Efini ypipe, AEM ignition coils, Triumph "fast acting" intake temp sensor, MAC valve for boost
There are more mods in my sig but these are the ones that matter.

My first map is attached for comment. This is based on a series 6 map from the Adaptronic forums.

I'm happy with the changes below and think that anyone could use them as a good starting point and improvement to the series 6 base map.

- I've calibrated the water (and aux) temp sensor with a thermocouple and multi meter. My freezer allowed me to start at -10F, a hot plate then took it all the way to 257F. I scaled numbers to match the curve for the temps below -10F.
- The RPMs have been set to scale as close to the stock limit of 8000 as the current software will allow.
- The boost scale is set to 21psi.
- The leading ignition map is based on my PFC's leading map.
- The trailing map is also based on my PFC's map.
Credit belongs to Chuck and Raymond for the timing maps. I highly recommend a subscription (worth every penny) to their private tuning group. To say that I've learned a lot from group membership is an understatement.
- The target AFR map is based again on my PFC. Again, this is targeting a "conservative" tune per Raymond / Chuck's notes for the PFC. There's an area for cruise that targets a cat friendly 14.7:1 mix. You may prefer to lean it out for MPG or add fuel for torque.
- Electric load 1, 2, and 3 are set up.
- The cooling fans are set to overcome a bug with the ECU's "OR" function. You'll notice the trigger temps in two places on the output tab. Set the temps identically. One triggers the fan, the other the extra air to idle the engine against the electrical load.
- dead time for the injectors. These are copied from the PFC and are for 550 / 850 stock (or bored out 1300) injectors.


Here's what needs some tuning:
- the entire fuel map ... I've dialed in the idle cells a bit but it needs a complete tune. I'm having trouble with the Wideband connection ... until then, it's manual tweaks here.
- The idle speed and PID settings. I'm having a dickens of a time smoothing out a 720RPM (stock) idle. My PFC could do this perfectly.
- The cold idle air duty cycle as the throttle runs down the fast idle cam. I'm almost happy with this but their is a bit of room for improvement.
- The cold fuel mixture. It runs fine but I plan on tweaking this a bit once the running mixture is tuned.
- Boost settings. For now with stock solenoids and then a MAC valve when I am ready. I'll probably only tune to 12psi until this is installed. After the valve is in I'll tune to the conservative limit of the (80%) injectors or (18psi) turbos, whichever comes first. Well, first my clutch will probably give out.
- I need to calibrate the AIT sensor. I'm waiting on some parts from Eastern Beaver. Once these are here I'll make an extension harness and calibrate it. I'll probably pull the UIM and install my 1300 secondaries at this point as well.
- boost by gear
- ???

Besides thanking Raymond and Chuck (join thier tuning group ) I need to say thanks to Cody from TriPoint for explaining PID tuning and much more to me. They have an AEM system that is pretty much PNP and just as good if not better than the Adaptronic that I'm using. He has a lot of passion for tuning with the AEM ecu and these cars. I recommend considering his tuning and the AEM ECU if you're shopping.

 

forgot the attachment

 

Thanks so much for sharing!
Of course I'm sharing my maps as well from my car

 

I want to copy your fuel table but I have I.D 850 Primaries and 2200 secondaries. Happen to know how I might be able to calculate for the smaller sized injectors and get accurate values for the lower cc's? Also...if I were to copy your fuel table I would need to enter it all in under closed loop correct?

Thanks for sharing!!

Also...do you have the Full Function Engineering 32 tooth trigger wheel?

 

Hi Mannykiller,

I wouldn't use the fuel map. I haven't tuned it at all. Also, this setup idles poorly. I've managed to fix it with some help from Raymond / Chuck / Cody and will post an update this weekend with details of what is changed. Andy gave me a hand with my wideband so I'll be able to tune the car this weekend as well. Once this is done the fuel table should be worth copying.

Is your car tuned using VE? If so, you just need to load my map, enter your injector size / dead time and go. Well, I might add a bit of fuel across the board for safety's sake (differences in our mods) then tune the AFRs down. That statement is based on my newb understanding of VE tuning so it would be best to verify it first. Maybe Andy will chime in. I'll eventually be doing something similar when I drop a pair of 1300cc secondaries in to replace my 850s.

I'm using the stock Mazda triggering wheel.

You're welcome to stop by and say hi. I'm in 91311 ... will be working on the car all day Sat.

James

 

Hey names! my name is actually Aaron... Long story with the user name "mannykiller." haha. I'm actually going to take the car down to a reputable tuner here in about 2-3 weeks times. Wasn't planning on running the hard on your tune. Just so I could break in my Diff before we hit the dyno. So i'd just be driving around the block and doing some figure eights =-) Figure'd even if your map wasn't perfect...it would be much better than mine haha. I'm new to this as well and am looking into joining that tunning forum. Looks like you've started another endeavor then huH?! thats awesome though! The more you know and understand the less you have to rely on anyone else.

I'm not sure what you mean by tuned by VE... are you talking about Volumetric Efficiency? How would I check if it is? I guess I could look around in the individual tabs and find it somewhere. Can you clarify entering the dead time? Is that for leading and trailing? again...sorry for my ignorance I really am a newb in terms of tunning etc.

I would love to come hang out and go through the ropes with you on saturday!!! but I won't be able to because I work my second job FRI-WED so I won't really have any time. Damn 14 hour days not including driving time!! But Definitely let me know how it goes.

Where did you get your Fast reacting AIT? i'm going to need to replace mine.... its VERY slow.

 

Hi Aaron,

I found your build thread ... impressive! Welding and fabrication is on my list of things to learn. No worries about the visit, you have to make money to play with the car ...

As long as you stay out of boost you'll be fine. You can pretty much do anything with AFRs when not boosting and the engine should be fine ... might run lousy but shouldn't hurt it.

Yep, VE=Volumetric Efficiency. Here's a quick video ( ) that explains it. My PFC and I assume older ECUs just listed off the msec of injector on time. VE tuning lets the ECU calculate this based on the amount of air that the engine can move. It knows this based on inputs like displacement, throttle position, boost, etc. If you change the injectors all that's needed it to tell the ECU how much fuel the new ones can dump into the engine. The ECU then calculates the needed msec of on time.

Take a look around your tabs. There's one that lists the two possible maps in the top left of the tab's window. There's three check boxes that enable VE tuning for map 1, map 2 and I think cranking.

Dead time is for the injectors. It's basically how long they take to open after an electrical signal is applied. It varies by injector and by the amount of voltage applied to them. There is a table in the ECU that lists dead time by voltage ... one for primary and another for secondary. There's a button to access this table on one of the tabs ... one button for primary and another for secondary. You're injectors should have a spec sheet with the info or if they are common you can search to find it.

Here's a start on the temp sensor (link). You can hunt one down on ebay for cheap.

later,

James

 

In this case its pressure not flow for VE. They are very different.

Thanks for the plug by the way. With the fuel map already having a 1:1 scaler you will be able to get away with keeping all of the idle manifold pressure rows flat. The hidden offset scale should automatically compensate changing manifold pressures.

EB Turbo

 

I can't find the AIT part number.. ;-)

 

check this post (link)

First link still works ... copy the PN and use it to search on the second link or wherever you want to check price ...

 

Or just post the AIT part number here...

Triumph T1290510

 

Hi All,

Some updates, file attached (not linked 0110-M-P).

Changes:
- My Narrow band O2 sensor is turned back on. It's there, might at well use it. I originally turned it off when troubleshooting the connection to my wideband.
- Rapid Learning is turned on. Andy gave me some help to get my wideband working.
- Both closed loop and adaptive tuning mode are set to trigger after 176F.
- Enrichment are reduced in duration and percentage a bit. The car was just too rich post start.
- Coolant Enrichment Low Map is now set to hold about 12.5:1 when the car is cold and while it warms up.
- Coolant Enrichment High Map is a copy of the Low Map.
- Air temp correction is flat.
- Spark Split is now 20 at 1000 RPM / 0kPa and 5kPa. This is to smooth idle.
- The second turbo transition point logic (Aux 9 and 10) have been tweaked to be a bit closer to my PFC's settings. The old settings oscillated on and off of the second turbo. This is still a work in progress.
- The AC will come on at 550RPM and above. I forget the past setting but it wasn't letting the compressor engage.
- I didn't mention it last time but the metering oil pump output is cut in half. I run premix.
- MVSS (speed) is calibrated but turned off. The gear ratios are also set.
- Overboost cut is set to 14 / 12. I was hitting it way too easily before.
- The cold rev limit is set to apply untill 122F ... bit higher then before.
- The idle tab is now set to idle smoothly at 745RPM. There are a lot of tweaks here. I'll let you compare / look.
- I'm still working on the wastegate. Basically trying to spool the primary ASAP and then hit 10psi on the secondary. Still a work in progress. PID is off until I have a decent baseline.
- Target AFR is set to 12.5:1 in the same two cells that I set extra split (above). This is to smooth the idle at 745rpm.
- Ignition 1 has been set to 0deg (leading timing) at 900rpm and below, -10"Hg and above. This again is for idle smoothness. All per the tuning group mentioned in my first post. Idle is now perfect.
- The fuel map was way off previously. I've since driven the car, let the rapid learn function work a bit, smoothed the map and then driven it a bit more. It's at least usable now. The map I had earlier was so rich at points that the car had trouble running with boost past 5000 RPM. There's more work to be done here but I think that this is a better starting point than the last map.

 

The tuning continues ...

Hi All,

This map has:
- The AIT (Triumph fast acting) sensor is calibrated.
- The air temp timing trim is set up as is the coolant temp timing trim. As usual copied from my PFC.
- I haven't set up fuel corrections based on AIT but I will once I have a decent base tune.
- The coolant enrichment high map adds about 5% more fuel than the low map.
- Many tweaks to idle. I'm working on stalls when coming out of a downshift, having the A/C on, etc.
- Tweaks to the post crank start up enrichment.
- The load inputs (electric, power steering, A/C, cooling fan) are all set to electric load 1. Setting them to load 1, 2 and 3 would idle up way too high when everything is on. Now things are a bit low under multiple loads but the PID parameters correct it fairly quickly.
- The A/C electric load is set up to add with Electric Load 1. The cooling fan runs 100% of the time that the A/C is on in my car. This allows the engine to idle up part way for the fan and then use the A/C effort setting for the compressor only. The compressor cycling on and off is smoothed significantly.
- Boost is still set at about 7PSI. I've pulled a huge amount of fuel out past 5000 RPM. I'm close to hitting my target AFR's. It's taking a while due to limited time but mostly due to being way to rich in the first place. When a third gear run up a hill, with the brakes on to slow acceleration, moves your 7500 RPM VE from 108% to 85% you're way over-committed on fuel. Once I dial in 7PSI, the rest of the map should move quickly.

 

Hi All,

I just saw video that made me feel good about adding too much fuel and tuning down ... tuning down very conservatively.


The Adaptronic's "auto-tune" feature is just a tool. It's not something to blindly rely on to tune the engine ... that's why they call is "adaptive" tuning and not "auto-tune".

peace!

 

Sweet! wish I could do the same thing. Unfortunately I just dont have the time to learn at the moment. Mad Props for getting it all done on your own!!

 

Yeah I just finished that video last night; I think I went to bed at about 2am. Cheers

 

Hi all,

Here's the next map. Notes:

- There's a decent row of tuned cells from 6600RPM to red line at 7psi.
- I've also tuned based on logs (car moves too fast for 9psi. This could use some work.
- The cells at 7 and 9psi (and others that aren't marked tuned) still need work if they are under 5500rpm. I've been having some trouble logging in this area. I'm not sure why ... ECU firmware, software, my laptop, etc. The logs just don't show for about 5 seconds at the beginning of a run.
- High vacuum (in gear, no gas) has been tuned a bit. This was lean in the last map and though great for eliminating backfiring, caused the engine to stall out. I'm still working on this but it's much better now.
- This map is based on firmware / Wari 10.126. The transient throttle response is much better in this version. Well, 10.124 does this but 10.126 is ready for the PLX integration shown at this link.
- The new firmware version supports a seperate control of the main wastegate and the pre-control wastegate. There are dedicated functions for these. What a difference this makes to sub 4500RPM power!
- I've had to spend some time re-adjusting the wastegate duty cycle. The new firmware (explanation above) really causes the turbos to spool fast. The duty cycles that are set now target 9psi.

So, what's next? Well, I'm waiting for the PLX integration board to make it over here to the states. Once this arrives I have 1300cc injectors, a mac valve, a larger water injection nozzle and new rear-iron-to-throttle-body coolant line. Once the PLX board is in I'll pull the UIM and install all of this. FYI, the new collant line is needed to replace the one with my PLX sensor in it.

I'll run with the new parts for a bit and then go for some dyno time. My base map is close enough now that I won't waste my money. That and I now understand this ECU.

best,

James

 

Good write up. So would all the settings you changed help if i uploaded your map to my car and just put my injector size in? I run closed loop all the time and i know i dont have nearly any of the settings set to improve the running of the car.

 

Every car is different, but you can play with it and adjust settings, always remember to save your previous map just incase any changes you made don't work out, if his setup if real close to your setup it might only need minor tweaking, but if the setup is different it might not work.

James it might help other people if you post your engine setup.

 

I just updated my mods ... see my sig.

Here's the big things to take note of:

1) I'm running 50/50 water meth injection. It comes on and follows the duty of my secondary injectors at about 25%. This accounts for about 5% of the duty cycle in the upper RPMs / boost areas of my map. Well, at least this is what I tuned out when I was using a PFC. If you aren't running the same setup as I am for secondary injection you should dial in a bit more fuel and re-tune accordingly. Note that my timing isn't set to take advantage of the secondary injection. You shouldn't need to change timing at all.

2) I've been tuning without open loop scaling for intake temperature changes. My intake temps tend to be around 90F during WOT runs. I don't plan on adding this scaling in until I finish my dyno tuning. If it's cooler where you are ... it's been about 70F outside during my runs ... you should account for this. If you don't you're risking running lean and detonating.

3) This is otherwise a stock engine (no porting) with the typical bolt-ons ... DP, cat back, intake. Check my signature for all of the details.

Did I miss anything?

best,

James

 

thanks!

What FC3S1991 said about "every car is different" is very true but your question about just changing injector sizes is the right thinking. This is supposed to be the beauty of VE tuning, new injectors ... just set the size. Well, don't forget about injector dead times. This should be adjusted as well.

When I change out my secondary 850s for 1300s I'll let everyone know how it goes.

 

Hi guys,

Also, the latest 10.126 software from here: New Select 10.126 does the injector deadtimes for the ID 725, 850, 1000 and 2200 - if you go into the dead time editing screen, you can select the injector type, enter the fuel pressure and it updates the dead times and also the flow rates for you automatically.

Cheers
Andy

 

Too cool!

 

Does the new Firmware change the settings for the fan control? or can I just leave it how it is? Thanks much!

Nice update James!! Although I'm not anywhere near your comprehension level with this ECU i'll have some updates in about 3 weeks time as far as dyno time. Looking forward to your tunning updates on the dyno as well!!

 

I forget where Andy fixed the fan control issue that was caused by a bug in the OR function. I think version 10.123? 10.126 definitely works fine though. FYI, our cars (series 6) directly drive the fan when the ECU triggers the AC and so we don't need the OR function. It's the guys in Japan, Australia, the UK, and ??? that need this function.

Definitely let us know how your tuning goes. I'm still waiting for the PLX adapters to show up, so I installed my mac valve today. One less thing to do before taking it to the dyno.