OK so i bought a 93 touring with 64000 miles, completly stock. And had someone talk me into going single. This car was my daily driver ( i know im an idoit), but after this ill be buying a beater hopefully. But heres what i got.....

Apexi Power fc
1300 cc secondary injectors
walbro fuel pump
Brand new borgwarner s362
greddy two row FMI
Hks wastegate
Tial Bov
ACT strip- strip clutch
Greddy elbow
Greddy sp2 exhaust( already installed)
Megan racing Manifold
B&M short shifter with 5 speed rx8 **** and boot
Meth injection
New radiator

Im doing the tsw black Trackstar rims with a red lip with 245 Nitto invo tires
Racing beat springs, sways, and braces with tokico adj shocks
99 spec front lip with Re diffuser remake ( the one with 3 fins)
Powder coating the piping and intake mani wrinkle black and keeping exhaust manifold and turbo polished. oh ya and getting smoked front turn singles with all the other lights tinted

Im wanting around 400 hp..... maybe 12-14 pounds.

Any comments? Anyone think i can pull it off cause im installing it all myself?

 

No ?

 

1. I would use larger injectors 850/1600
2. you may want to think about an extreme PP with that clutch.
3. you will need a programable ecu if you don't have one already.
4. you need a wastegate.
5. your ignition will need to be upgraded.

And that's not even getting into "reliability" mods...
BTW did you call out H/C F-body for a money race?

 

Haha how did that race thing get around? actually hes a really good friend and he was the one who called me out.

BUt i have the power fc and a hks wastegate. but do you not think that 1300cc will be enough? i heard it was hard to get it to idle when u mess with the primary injectors.

and ive decided im going to do a wideband too. and what do you do to the ignition to upgrade it?

 

I get around lol..clicky
Anyway, 1300 should be enough at lower boost levels , but when you reach over 400 you will be running VERY high IDC especially with 550s.

And a good tuner will have 850s idling like stock.

On the ignition side, I have heard nothing but great things about the HKS twin power. But I have been running and FC leading coil amped with jacobs's electronics fc1000 for over 2 years with no problems.

 

Haha thats so funny he posted that on there. I wish 20 pounds.... see me and him are really good friends and he was the one who called me out. but thanks for getting him thinking about fd's. He was talking crap saying it was a miata and i told him not to underestimate them. But yea i only want to run 14 pounds.... so what you think my whp will be around there? I dont think i would have a chance againest him with spray, but him all motor could be a good race.

And what would be the highest number i could put up with 1300 secondarys and 850 primarys? like how high boost and highest hp i could see i mean without blowing my motor

 

850/1300's should be good into the mid 400's. As would 550/1600's. I'm not familiar with that turbo you're running but if its anything like a gt35 or 60-1 with a good tune you can in the 400's with 15 psi. 16 psi is about the general safe limit on pump gas, some people push it further but anyway, the meth kit will allow you to run higher boost if you want.

 

The wideband is a great idea. And i highly recommend getting the datalogit. EDIT: Just had a look at that turbo, looks like it should get you in the 400's at around 15 psi. Might take a lil more psi with stock ports.

 

So i guess thats a pretty good size turbo then? I just stress out about the fuel leaks from doing the whole new fuel rail and things like that from going above 1300's.

And so my boy wont talk to me about racing now.... ProjectD scared him off

 

Yeah thats a good size turbo. As long as the fuel rail is done right it shouldn't leak. If you're interested i have some just cleaned and flow checked stock 850's

 

Is that primary injectors?

 

Ok does anyone know what hp numbers i can put down and howmuch boost i can run from a BW 362 and 1300 cc secondarys and 850 primarys?

 

the 850cc are stock secondaries but they can be used in the primary rail with slight modification to the rail.

try this calculator. it seems to be fairly accurate. You can use different injector sizes. i wouldn't exceed about 90% duty. some people say lower, but for a street car most of the time it wont be at high duty cycles for very long so it should be fine running up to 90% at peak load.
http://www.maxcooper.com/rx7/how-to/...tem/calcs.html

 

Dp+ greddy pullies- 170
Front mount+ Tial BOV- 650
New megan manifold- 160
1300 cc injectors- 250
ACT strip/ strip clutch- 265
Borg warner s362- 805
Fuel pump- 120
Hks Wg- 130
Apexi Power fc- 700
Greddy elbow- 90
I just got to get ignition. ok so around 3300 now.

But since im not going ***** to the wall im going to try to make it without a wideband, and all those gauges ( i at least have a boost gauge). Anyone HIGHLY disagree with that? i mean is it that important?

But according to that calculator at 85% 1300'c and 850's will go all the way up to 440. So it looks like im good.

 

yeah you should be fine with those injectors.

I highly recommend a wideband and a datalogit. The innovative lc1 is only like 200 and will work great with the datalogit. its so much easier to tune with a datalogit and you can get your idle alot cleaner with the larger primaries by using negative lag. The wideband will pay for itself if you do the tuning, in which case you might want to contact chuck westbrook about his tuning notes. You will also get better mileage if you have a wideband to tune with. most shops only tune idle area a bit and whatever boost levels you choose under wide open throttle. which means alot of tuning can still be done for the cruise areas. which will greatly improve mileage and driveabilty. Not to mention it makes trouble shooting easier when you have problems.

The greddy elbow is nice but not required.

 

Ya i no. i just wanted to throw that elbow out there..... out well uve talked me into it.... ill go with the wideband.

Ok i see that wideband so it replaces ur old 02 sensor and the you can attach it to ur controllor from the power fc using the datalogit? and no extra gauges or anything. Sounds great to me

 

yeah you can attach it directly to your datalogit, and if you so chose you can run an external display also. It also has a wire that simulates the stock narrowband sensor but most people leave it disconnected and turn o2 feedback off, this way you can run a bit leaner and get better mileage.

 

im going to try to jet hot coat everything, but what are some other reliability mods.

Ive got:
bigger radiator
fan mod ( i think its the fan switch from the 2nd gens)
what else? i mean can you do lower than a 180 thermostat?

 

With the datalogit you can turn the fans on at any temp you want. You can also move the air temp sensor to after the intercooler and shave some of the plastic off of the sensor part so it reacts quicker and is less likely to heat soak. You will need to adjust the ait map portions with the datalogit. Also make sure you have the undertray installed and any gaps sealed. Vented hood helps too with ridding engine bay heat and airflow through a smic. Fuel pump rewire to get the most from your fuel pump.

 

ok so that fanthing was a waste of money. lol But i was eventually going to do the feed hood. Its good about the heat isnt it?

And im having a fellow member put the fuel pump on that was off of another car. i hope its big enough to get the power i want.

 

do the rewire anyways. it will make all pumps put out more. it gives about 2 extra volts to the pump, plus its cheap. quick, and easy.

here is how i rewired mine. there are a few ways to do it. click to enlarge

 

Thanks a lot ill def do it... thanks for all your help btw

 

no problem

 

Hey i need to no how important ignition is?

 

thats kind of a broad question. Obviously you need ignition because the car wont run without it. but are you asking if you need an ignition amp or aftermarket coils? if so that depends how much power you want, and how much boost you plan on running.