MODS:
13k rebuild
Compression Numbers 8.9, 8.6, 8.4
M2 intake
Down Pipe
Hi Flow Cat
3" Rb Dual Exhaust
Knight Sports Upgrade twins
stock injectors
Pettit Unlimited Ecu
Koyo Radiator
Greddy SMIC
Silicone hose job


I'm not trying to make ridiculous amounts of power , but I am trying to have decent power around 320-370 Whp, but not at the expense of the motor. So, what i'm trying to ask here is do you think I need to upgrade the injectors and ipgrade to a PFC? As it sits the secondaries come on hard at 15 Psi and I've only allowed that to happen once ( too scared without fuel ).

I either want to lower the boost pressue or get a pfc so, should I get a boost controller or restrictor pills to do that? And I'm not sure why the cars hitting that high boost. On the secondary turbo but it feels incredible.

My plans for the car are to take it to weekend track days , but NOT blow it up!


ADVICE?

 

From my experience stock injectors run out at the 320 rwhp mark. By this I don't mean injector duty being 100% but being a sufficiently high level that you don't feel too safe (92%).

So some 1300ccs if you take a gander at the 3rdgen parts section I believe there is someone selling 1300ccs already in the stock fuel rail so that could be a pretty easy swap for you. Naturally you would need to get it tuned after.

 

Get a PFC. Reduce the boost to 0.7-0.8bar until you get your fueling and tuning sorted out.

I'd go for 1680 secondaries with stock primary.
Also probably a good idea to run Wi
& last a good boost controller

Good luck

 

Throw some 1300s in there and get a pfc and water injection. Turn it up to 15lbs and enjoy. I dont think those turbos make any noticeable difference in power above the stockers.

 

How about lowering the boost? What is the best way to do that to run in the safe range. 10-12 psi?

boost controller?
pills?

 

The easiest/cheapest way to keep the boost at a lower level (10-12psi) is to add restriction to your exhaust (i.e.~ Put the stock cat back on) until you can get the fuel system upgrades in, and the whole thing tuned for higher psi.


Do you have a good duct for your Greddy SMIC?

 

djseven and fendamonky got it right

boost controller helps control boost but with a full open exhaust it can still creep and spike easily in this cool weather. The Archives have a good thread on boost creep and boost spikes if you want to learn more about that.

 

You only provided compression numbers for one rotor. 3 faces, 2 rotors, 6 numbers. Your limited comprehension makes me think you should stay conservative. Not trying to be an ***. But just take it easy, do some research, learn about the car, and make some informed decisions. Also there is one secondary turbine and there are secondary injectors so I'm not sure what you mean when you say "the secondaries hit hard at 15psi". The secondary turbine comes online at about 4500rpm and will stay online until you go below 3800rpms IIRC. I have no clue when the secondary injectors come one and Im willing to be it would take a graph to explain given boost pressure and load.

It would be quite a feat to get 370whp out of stock based twins. Not that it hasnt been done. But by the point that you do youd probably go single anyways. 320 is much more resonable.

There is no great way to solve you boost creep issue. But here are some options.
1) get a fuel system and computer that can handle your target power goals and level of modification
2) restrict the exhaust system via a restrictor plate or a catalytic converter
3) further modify your turbo's and port the wastegate so that you can actually limit boost pressure to a level you can currently support(1 bar is the outer limit of the stock fuel system.....like pluto)

in any case you will need a boost controller(which the PFC has...how well it does it has been debated)