worst news ever..
08-20-14, 12:31 PM
#51
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Sad to say, but the ONLY way to know *exactly* what goes into your car is if you build it yourself, or get really involved during the build and install process.. I was told once that my irons were fine and my housings were resurfaced.. I pulled that (second blown engine) out and broke it down and the housings looked like **** and the step wear was... bad... WAAAYYYY out of mazda specs bad. But I was charged $5,000 for that engine. (Needless to say I got my money back, lol).
Not to hit you with horror stories of one shop ******* one guy over... just be aware that a fresh rebuild doesn't always mean bulletproof.
Not to hit you with horror stories of one shop ******* one guy over... just be aware that a fresh rebuild doesn't always mean bulletproof.
Would you recommend me visiting the shop consistently during the rebuild? Requesting pictures?
08-20-14, 12:35 PM
#52
F'n Newbie...
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This is certainly the route I am taking.
I am looking into different singles (trying to make sense of all the sizes and what is modern vs old technology).
IC: either a greddy fmic or greddy/re amemiya vmount not to do more research into this and what will be needed.
Exhaust: DP (based on the single i get), midpipe not sure brand as of yet. Catback: my re amemiya ti
Intake: To be determined with turbo choice
I am looking into different singles (trying to make sense of all the sizes and what is modern vs old technology).
IC: either a greddy fmic or greddy/re amemiya vmount not to do more research into this and what will be needed.
Exhaust: DP (based on the single i get), midpipe not sure brand as of yet. Catback: my re amemiya ti
Intake: To be determined with turbo choice
ECU: Leaning toward adaptronic, also research AEM
AI: Most likely AEM water/meth, not sure if meth is neeeded and if water only could suffice 
Tune: To be done by Lucky 7 racing, who will be doing the rebuild assuming I don't outright buy an engine. Also looking at Neptune Speed or taking suggestions to other tuners in the orange county area (WILL NOT GO TO RRR)
Fuel pump: Probably walbro or denso, do the brands here matter too much?
Fuel rail: No idea need to research (will look into FFE)
Harness: Is there aftermarket ones for these? Should I look for a new OEM one?
Rywire makes generic harnesses for like $600-$700, they use the buzzword "milspec" but that's a load of crap (imo), as I've already priced out a proper "milspec" harness
Injector: Bousch as someone stated above oem primaries should suffice and 1600cc secondarys. Will look into further.
Porting: Depending on if motor is rebuilt or bought...looking toward a good sized street port (even though I love the sound of a HBP)
08-20-14, 12:48 PM
#53
F'n Newbie...
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Stacking the engine itself only takes a couple hours. The prep work (cleaning parts, setting clearances, etc) takes a while (it took us about 12 hours with a brand new (clean) motor and ALL new seals, that was with two guys setting clearances) and you don't necessarily need to be there for that.
Maybe just talk to the shop to figure out when they will stack your engine and let them know you want to show up (with a couple pizzas and some good beer) to watch it get put together.
I'm pretty skeptical now though, after my experiences... I only trust 3 shops/people to work on my car without my being concerned
08-22-14, 09:37 AM
#56
I've looked at this Video a number of times to do a side by side comparison of a Rotary Driven FD and a NON-Rotary Driven FD.
I appreciate both these cars. I've read a number of times in your posts the HP Numbers that you're looking for.
While I am not given any advice or helping your decision making - I think the Video shows nicely what this car is capable of doing - With different engines.
I appreciate both these cars. I've read a number of times in your posts the HP Numbers that you're looking for.
While I am not given any advice or helping your decision making - I think the Video shows nicely what this car is capable of doing - With different engines.
08-22-14, 12:13 PM
#57
Where has my $ gone?
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I've looked at this Video a number of times to do a side by side comparison of a Rotary Driven FD and a NON-Rotary Driven FD.
I appreciate both these cars. I've read a number of times in your posts the HP Numbers that you're looking for.
While I am not given any advice or helping your decision making - I think the Video shows nicely what this car is capable of doing - With different engines.
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zMlmuNNtk
I appreciate both these cars. I've read a number of times in your posts the HP Numbers that you're looking for.
While I am not given any advice or helping your decision making - I think the Video shows nicely what this car is capable of doing - With different engines.
Video Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0zMlmuNNtk
08-23-14, 12:41 AM
#58
First guy did it in roughly 28 seconds, second guy in roughly 37 seconds.
Question isn't "what kind of engine do you want?", it is "what kind of driver do you want to be?".
Personally, I'll take the first driver. He's optimizing a quantifiable metric.
Question isn't "what kind of engine do you want?", it is "what kind of driver do you want to be?".
Personally, I'll take the first driver. He's optimizing a quantifiable metric.
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