My favorite part of this statement!

Truth...

 

Alright so I think the best way to go about doing this, is just save the rebuild and hope non of the heavy internals need replacement.

Is there anything else i should look into while the motor is out and apart?

 

mild port? might as well clean up the castings while your there. How extreme you want to go is your call

 

Well the long term goal is mid 400's I'm by no means rolling in money so this will be a long, slow process, which gives me plenty of time to learn and plan. I just want to make sure I'm not wasting my time rebuilding the motor and I overlook something that i will have to do any way

 

And that's what im doing, so in the mean time in saving. I understand you could make low 400, with bnr stage 3, but in also consisering a single but really need to read into the single. I will be going with water maybe water and meth inject eventually when its needed, iwant to build this ti be reliable as possible and not take short cuts. By the same toKen I dint want to use some massive single just to make the power at a very low psi

 

I vote streetport and average sized single. A 60mm will do you just fine for your goals. Cheap, simplistic, and reliable.

Garret T04S turbos are dirt cheap now-a-days. If you look around you should be able to pick up a used xs/hks cast manifold on the cheap. This setup is a nice bang for the buck and will do 450rwhp.

 

What sort of supporting mods will I Ned to complete this, I assume a supra fuel pump or some sort do dual system, exhaust, intake, I assume a fm or vmount ic. What size inejctors? Water or water/meth (thinking aem)? I want to stay on pump gas if possible.
For ecu to my research adaptronic is the best unless you're willing to shell out fo a haltech which i think is overkill here

If i have an exedy dual plated clutch will it hold that power o should I be looking toward that too?

 

ACT Street/Strip will work or an exedy twin plate
simple 1680cc secondaries bosche standard injectors
any generic top feed rail
walbro 400lph pump or 044
greddy fmic and koyo radiator
upgrade to dual oil cooler or a large single
consider small water/meth jet
Power FC or AEM V1 will work great too
stock ignition should work, maybe add an hks twin power if you have breakup

^should be good for 450rwhp ~16-18psi

 

Will my stock r1 oil coolers work for this?

Now I just need to win the lottery to but all this haha

 

Interior is fairly nice, just some of the usual plastics that need fixing and some missing screws.

Engine will be new after rebuild, trans about 30k since rebuild per previous owners documents, but the chassis is at any 190k. I was in the process of semi refreshing the car, and as i said it's an original cym just repainted

Gmonsen you may be right. Only current mods are greddy smic, koni struts w/eibach springs and my amemiya catback.

Anyone else think to keep it stock? I'd hate to'ruin' this

 

Unless its a low mileage, cherry, and untouched car whats the point ? These cars dont increase in value either. Most people buy these cars to have fun with from a modification stand point .

 

Find out how much vaccuum the engine is pulling and go from there. Compression shouldn't be the only decision factor. Enjoy the car while you can and save up for the rebuild or buy one from the forsale section which could be had from trusted members for about 3k.

 

And what's the point of having 450 rwhp? The use should be the objective and the drivetrain/suspension would be the means to the objective.

If the use is a nice DD, stock is the way to go with some mild improvements (anything over 300 HP for street use is a waste IMHO). Tracking the car would dictate different and varying requirements depending on what type of track use. Occasional track events/Auto-X may neccessitate suspension and cooling upgrades over power upgrades. In fact power upgrades over skill upgrades can get you in trouble real easy.

You should figure out what you want from your car, then build it for that. Don't just pick some arbritray numbers as your objective

 

I know exactly what i want from the car. My hp goal is not some "arbitrary" number. The car is not my dd, and it never will be (less something catastrophic) my goal was to have a car that has exceptional power, decent reliability w/proper cooling, ai, ect.

My rationale for that number was through My research it's very attainable, there is a lot of information from people making power in this range, it's still maintains driveability. And lastly it still keeps the spirit of a nimble rx7 and not a sluggish beast that only hits power 6k+. I do understand single turbo is probably the only way to go but I won't need some massive unit, and can achieve quick response times.

And please don't insult my "skill upgraded" short of my age you know virtually nothing about me or my drving capacity.

 

Correct, my statements were general. No offensense intended

Kind of sounds like your goal is an arbitrary no. Are you looking for power for power's sake or is there some use for the additional power? I'm not trying to be critical, but understanding the answers may help you with your objectives. Now if your goal is a number, go for it

 

bro you've joined the wrong forum... lol

 

So, what's your plan from an emissions perspective? Does the car still need to be CA compliant? If so, that will likely drive some of your decisions from a "single" versus "stock twins" perspective as well.

 

Ok, so here is my reasoning. My goal is to make just a really badass street car. The reason I chose 450hp, as opposed to say 500,600,800 whatever is as follows.

1. I agree with you that anything above like 325hp is probably overkill, and naturally the higher you go its more overkill, however that doesn't mean you should stop there, especially for someone like all of us that genuinely enjoys cars.

2. After a fair bit of research I chose ~450hp as I stated above, our cars can make this power with a fair bit of effort without having to go to extreme or doing some sort of v8 or 20b swap. And that was someting I do not want to do.

3. This amount of power is still function on the street, and I will still be able to feel that kind of power (even though as we can agree on it is overkill).

4. There is plenty of people who have made this power thus it will be easy to obtain information as people will have similar set ups, and I would be able to find the pro's and con's of each.

5. I do not want to use alternative fuel like e85, and I have very limited access to any gasoline above pump 91.

6. This level of power is also where I understand you begin to really sacrifice reliability (I understand as you stated 300hp would be a hell of a lot more reliable) but with a proper set up I feel this could work too.

7. Now correct me if I am wrong here but in this hp range the size of the turbo needed is not overly large and can still have quick spool up times, thus maintaining that fd feel that we all so love.

I guess in conclusion the number was not the goal to begin with, but from my research I have concluded that with the mods I want to work with and ultimately being able to fund long term that is what kind of numbers people are posting. As I have said in previous comments I am still torn on the upgraded twins vs a medium sized single, because it is ultimately not about the number, it is just easier and probably more generally understood that if I list a number like 450hp most people here could conclude the route im going in terms of mods and thus be able to help me get there.

Thank you,

Joseph

 

450whp is pretty easy to get. I would leave your porting alone and consider the following:

- QUALITY (none of the ebay brand crap that some "stores" sell..) single turbo kit. Turblown sells a GT35R Stage V that would fit your goals very well.

- Quality V-Mount Intercooler setup.

- Quality (there is a trend here ) fuel system upgrade, FFE makes a beautiful set of rails, 725/2000cc ID injectors will give you more than enough fuel, without killing driveability. Upgraded pump as well (the Aeromotive Stealth pumps seem pretty nice).

- MODERN ecu, the PFC is ok for basic little builds, but it is very outdated. I'd look at Adaptronic, the Haltec Platinum Sports (avoid older E## haltecs) series, or a Syvecs.

- NEW wiring harness. The engine loom being good is critical.. factory ones have been in place, in a HOT engine bay for 20 years.. save yourself the headache and just completely replace it.

- Quality Water/Methanol injection system. With cali gas you're gunna need this to hit your goals while maintaining any semblance of reliability.

- QUALITY tune, don't waste your money on having this done half-assed... I'd look for a rotary specific shop with an in-house dyno and a strong track record.. a sloppy tune WILL kill your engine with a quickness!!


That is a pretty basic list of what you'd need/want, (assuming you've already got the basic mods done) it can absolutely be argued that some of what I listed isn't required and also that I may have left things out.. that's ok because each application is a little different and mine is a suggestion in general.

Cheers,

Levi

 

It sucks , But just look at it this way . This IS by far NOT the worst news ever .

Goodluck with the rebuild just look at the bright side, after thjerebuild you wont have that worry in he back of your head anymore , and you will be able to take the car anywhere . and not worry about not getting back!

 

I always love the posts about "whats the point of that much power?"

Take a ride in a 500rwhp FD when the boost kicks in and tell me how much lag bothers you and how the car is too fast. Its the most amazing feeling. If its "too much power" use less right foot. Simple.

This day and age, a 450rwhp FD can be MORE reliable than a stock FD. If done properly, going through the bay and replacing all the major compenents with modern technology can be rewarding. I miss my 2-rotor single; it was very simplistic, easy to work on, and I could beat the hell out of it. No vaccuum lines and solenoids running all over the place or worries of boost creep, IAT, etc.

With a 700hp mopar coming out this year, 450hp is a must for me

 

This is certainly the route I am taking.

I am looking into different singles (trying to make sense of all the sizes and what is modern vs old technology).

IC: either a greddy fmic or greddy/re amemiya vmount not to do more research into this and what will be needed.

Exhaust: DP (based on the single i get), midpipe not sure brand as of yet. Catback: my re amemiya ti

Intake: To be determined with turbo choice

ECU: Leaning toward adaptronic, also research AEM

AI: Most likely AEM water/meth, not sure if meth is neeeded and if water only could suffice

Tune: To be done by Lucky 7 racing, who will be doing the rebuild assuming I don't outright buy an engine. Also looking at Neptune Speed or taking suggestions to other tuners in the orange county area (WILL NOT GO TO RRR)

Fuel pump: Probably walbro or denso, do the brands here matter too much?

Fuel rail: No idea need to research (will look into FFE)

Harness: Is there aftermarket ones for these? Should I look for a new OEM one?

Injector: Bousch as someone stated above oem primaries should suffice and 1600cc secondarys. Will look into further.

Porting: Depending on if motor is rebuilt or bought...looking toward a good sized street port (even though I love the sound of a HBP)

These mods are only related to the engine and turbo build. Things like suspension and interior are not related thus not listed here.

 

I do realize this now, at the time of posting it was a bit devastating to me and was bummed out. But this is price we pay to own these cars i suppose.

And yes I am looking forward to progressing with this build and having the piece of mind of knowing exactly whats in my car.

 

Agreed and/but not always perfectly worry free after a rebuild...

I went through 2 rebuilds in about 4,000 miles by letting PFS build my engines (it was a mistake and I learned from it). One blew in 3,000 miles (side seal crumbled) and the second **** out at 1,500 miles because (I can only assume) a lazy tune led to a chipped apex seal tip.

Blind faith isn't ever a good thing, even if the engine was freshly rebuilt...

 

Sad to say, but the ONLY way to know *exactly* what goes into your car is if you build it yourself, or get really involved during the build and install process.. I was told once that my irons were fine and my housings were resurfaced.. I pulled that (second blown engine) out and broke it down and the housings looked like **** and the step wear was... bad... WAAAYYYY out of mazda specs bad. But I was charged $5,000 for that engine. (Needless to say I got my money back, lol).

Not to hit you with horror stories of one shop ******* one guy over... just be aware that a fresh rebuild doesn't always mean bulletproof.