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A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]

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Old 09-14-10 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Prometheus
I think a thread consolidation is needed, there is too much good information directly related, but in different threads.

PM me with those threads and I'll consolidate. I was thinking of folding this thread into Ihor's original thread on the topic.

Last edited by gracer7-rx7; 09-14-10 at 03:41 PM.
Old 09-14-10 | 03:40 PM
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Here are some links to CrisyRX7's fuel pump wiring and upgrades with specific mention of posts and fuel safe wiring:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm
from this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=13
on Ihor's original thread about wiring your fuel pumps:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/why-everyone-should-rewire-their-fuel-pump-847009/
which I just copied into the FAQ thread below Dale Clark's thread on fuel pump rewire
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Old 09-14-10 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
Here are some links to CrisyRX7's fuel pump wiring and upgrades:
http://www.reganrotaryracing.com/fddualfuelpumps.htm
from this post:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...5&postcount=13
on Ihor's original thread about wiring your fuel pumps:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=847009
which I just copied into the FAQ thread below Dale Clark's thread on fuel pump rewire
well that definitely answers my question.

looks like the same part is in this pic:
Old 09-14-10 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by theorie

This one is not sealed. I use specific bulkhead connectors designed for the application. PAVE Technologies is a great source; they will set up the connector with all of the correct softgoods. I have used this one in my projects; it has PTFE insulated 12 gauge wires and the wires are terminated (fuel will not leak up under the insulation:
http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/desi...ductindex.html
Old 09-14-10 | 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ttmott
This one is not sealed. I use specific bulkhead connectors designed for the application. PAVE Technologies is a great source; they will set up the connector with all of the correct softgoods. I have used this one in my projects; it has PTFE insulated 12 gauge wires and the wires are terminated (fuel will not leak up under the insulation:
http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/desi...ductindex.html
im sure the one from summit would work just fine with some fuel-safe gasket maker:
http://www.caswellplating.com/permat...ketmakers.html

Permatex® Super High Tack™ Gasket Sealant

Fast-drying sealant dries to a highly tacky, non-brittle film. Temperature range -65°F to 500°F (-54°C to 260°C); resists gasoline, oil, antifreeze, axle lube.
also, gasoline-resistant primary wire by the foot:
http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Acce...gw-1_Wire.aspx
[quote=Standard Copper Primary Wire is widely used in the trailer and automotive industry for original equipment and replacement wiring. The General Purpose Thermo-Plastic (GPT) Insulation is highly resistant to acids, gasoline, oil, grease and most industrial solvents. Meets SAE J1128 Specifications. For use with 50 volts or less, 176 degrees Fahrenheit.[/quote]

or this:

http://www.supremehardware.com/servl...RY-WIRE/Detail
Gb Xtreme Primary Wire
rated 600 v
vinyl insulation resists water, battery acid, oil gasoline, and uv radiation
tin plated copper for corrosion resistance
ultra flexible to resist fatigue due to vibration and flexing
ul listed
10 gauge; red
8'coil
Old 09-14-10 | 05:57 PM
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So is it possible to get the gasoline safe wire and bulkhead connectors online at the same place?
Old 09-14-10 | 07:04 PM
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Not sure. I know someone's gonna hate on my shopping list, but here is what I'm going to use:

(x2) Summit Racing® Bulkhead Cable Connector SUM-G1431 = $24.95 shipped
(x1) Permatex® Super High Tack™ Gasket Sealant = $3.99 (Purchased Local)
(x2) GB Xtreme Primary Wire 10-Gauge, 8-foot (Black & Red) = $22.93 shipped
(x1) Non-Insulated Ring Terminal 10-Gauge (Pack of 20) = $4.99 (Purchased Local)

So my total is a little over $60. Keep in mind I already have the wiring done from the battery to the top of the bulkhead with 10-Gauge wire and a Bosch relay.

I'll share pics when I get the parts...
Old 09-19-10 | 10:30 PM
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worked on the fuel pump wiring at SuckieBomb Garage today

new sock


holes cut for bulkhead connectors




new wires with ring terminals. bulkhead connectors sealed with gasoline-safe gasket maker:


Attached Thumbnails A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-imag0100.jpg   A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-dsc_5410.jpg   A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-dsc_5412.jpg   A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-dsc_5413.jpg   A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-dsc_5414.jpg  

Old 09-19-10 | 10:33 PM
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putting it back in:


all hooked up:


then rich and his IRP thugs showed up and ruined the party.
Attached Thumbnails A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-imag0102.jpg   A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-imag0103.jpg   A word about re-wiring your fuel pump. [pics]-rich-gang.jpg  
Old 09-19-10 | 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by theorie


then rich and his IRP thugs showed up and ruined the party.

Old 09-27-10 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ttmott
This one is not sealed. I use specific bulkhead connectors designed for the application. PAVE Technologies is a great source; they will set up the connector with all of the correct softgoods. I have used this one in my projects; it has PTFE insulated 12 gauge wires and the wires are terminated (fuel will not leak up under the insulation:
http://www.pavetechnologyco.com/desi...ductindex.html
How much does that thing cost? I cannot figure out for the life of me how to purchase one.
Old 09-27-10 | 09:17 PM
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It's been a few years but I think the wall connector was about $40 and the cable end was less with hermetic seals... Call them 937.890.1100 x6

Also try Newark Electronics they carry a wide line of connectors.

Lastly, Alvatek specalizes in aircraft connectors 1-888-965-7278
Old 10-20-10 | 09:07 AM
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just wanted to update about my fix.

so i had a small problem, fortunately it happened within 24 hours. the electrical bulkhead pass-thru connectors weren't sealed properly. apparently i let the gasket maker set-up for too long and then didn't tighten the locking nut enough so i had fuel seeping out (very little but enough to get the top of the bulkhead 'wet' with fuel). i noticed it right away because of the smell coming from my trunk area. haha

i pulled the assembly again, removed the new connectors, cleaned them, and then re-installed them with new gasket maker and got the locking nuts proper tight. no more leaking! it's been about a month now and still no problem.

cheers.
Old 01-02-11 | 01:12 PM
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on a side note, the second bulkhead isn't necessary for a ground, the pump can be grounded through the pump housing. only one bulkhead per pump as the ground doesn't need to be isolated and is necessary for the fuel level sender and low fuel level lights(if you're omitting the stock ground wire, i would at least upgrade the wiring diameter and run a gold plated terminal).
Old 05-05-11 | 04:45 PM
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what kind of drill bit did you use to cut the holes out? size?
Old 05-06-11 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by theorie
just wanted to update about my fix.

so i had a small problem, fortunately it happened within 24 hours. the electrical bulkhead pass-thru connectors weren't sealed properly. apparently i let the gasket maker set-up for too long and then didn't tighten the locking nut enough so i had fuel seeping out (very little but enough to get the top of the bulkhead 'wet' with fuel). i noticed it right away because of the smell coming from my trunk area. haha

i pulled the assembly again, removed the new connectors, cleaned them, and then re-installed them with new gasket maker and got the locking nuts proper tight. no more leaking! it's been about a month now and still no problem.

cheers.
any further issues? i am looking to do this soon and was going to purchase those same connectors

Originally Posted by rizzxx7
what kind of drill bit did you use to cut the holes out? size?
1 1/4"

Originally Posted by Karack
on a side note, the second bulkhead isn't necessary for a ground, the pump can be grounded through the pump housing. only one bulkhead per pump as the ground doesn't need to be isolated and is necessary for the fuel level sender and low fuel level lights(if you're omitting the stock ground wire, i would at least upgrade the wiring diameter and run a gold plated terminal).
so if i keep the stock sending unit connector in place (using only 2 wires), and run separate power and ground wires, the fuel level gauge and low fuel light wont work?

Last edited by 87 t-66; 05-06-11 at 08:25 AM.
Old 05-06-11 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 87 t-66
any further issues? i am looking to do this soon and was going to purchase those same connectors
Haven't had any further issues since I re-sealed the fittings (whatever the last post is dated...)
Old 05-06-11 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 t-66
so if i keep the stock sending unit connector in place (using only 2 wires), and run separate power and ground wires, the fuel level gauge and low fuel light wont work?
nevermind, dumb question
Old 05-06-11 | 06:06 PM
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theorie - did you remove your fuel level float? do you just now go with mileage for fuel level?
Old 05-06-11 | 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rizzxx7
theorie - did you remove your fuel level float? do you just now go with mileage for fuel level?
.
Old 05-06-11 | 07:04 PM
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I Didn't see it on the pics, maybe hes got it hooked up differently?
Old 05-07-11 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by rizzxx7
theorie - did you remove your fuel level float? do you just now go with mileage for fuel level?
no it's still in there. still using the float level for the gauge
Old 07-22-11 | 07:21 PM
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Tom, do you think one of these connectors will be sufficient to get enough voltage for two pumps?
Old 07-23-11 | 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by KKMpunkrock2011
Tom, do you think one of these connectors will be sufficient to get enough voltage for two pumps?
Note the barb fittings where changed to 3/8 instead of the big 1/2 ones
Old 07-23-11 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Alex Rodriguez
Note the barb fittings where changed to 3/8 instead of the big 1/2 ones


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