It wont stay alive!
#1
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It wont stay alive!
When I was driving down the road a couple of days ago my car just died when I came to a complete stop. Now my battery is almost dead and I charged it up and now my car barely starts and runs really rich when it starts and wont stay alive when I let off the gas. Its not the alternator because I got 11.8 volts when the ignition is on and then 13.3 volts when the car is running. Any ideas? Thanks
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Try another alternator for the hell of it. IT's possible it isn't working 100% when it gets hot. Same for the battery...a bad cell will cause a car to act a fool with no real pattern.
Last year when my fd was at the bodyshop, I believe they left the door ajar and drained the battery...it seemed to crank slower afterwards than it had when I took it in. Despite showing a good charge, the problem continuted to get worse, and finally I started having all sorts of odd hesitations, bucking at freeway speed, lights blinking with no explanation, etc. I went on and changed the battery and havent had a problem in the time since...
Also use a dremel to clean off your battery terminals and posts and be sure theyre securely fastened. This sounds simple but you wouldnt believe the times I've seen a bit of corrosion that was barely even visible cause major problems to a car. I burned myself on a battery terminal 2 weeks ago because corrosion was causing a poor connection and heated it up within 1 minute of installation. Cleaned off both surfaces with a dremel and it was fine.
Last year when my fd was at the bodyshop, I believe they left the door ajar and drained the battery...it seemed to crank slower afterwards than it had when I took it in. Despite showing a good charge, the problem continuted to get worse, and finally I started having all sorts of odd hesitations, bucking at freeway speed, lights blinking with no explanation, etc. I went on and changed the battery and havent had a problem in the time since...
Also use a dremel to clean off your battery terminals and posts and be sure theyre securely fastened. This sounds simple but you wouldnt believe the times I've seen a bit of corrosion that was barely even visible cause major problems to a car. I burned myself on a battery terminal 2 weeks ago because corrosion was causing a poor connection and heated it up within 1 minute of installation. Cleaned off both surfaces with a dremel and it was fine.
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#9
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Yeah I did the battery relocation like 2 weeks ago, and I grounded it to the seat belt bolt and it was doing fine, when it died I realized that it wasnt a very good connection, so I took it off and put it back on again and still the same thing. It still acts like its flooded when it starts up..could this be it dieing and the fuel pump not shutting off intul after the car dies? I tried a different battery also, and still same thing. Could the ground not being 100% cause this kind of problem? I also went to advanced to get a alternator and the only one they had was a reman that costs 200+. Could i take the one off the fc and try it out? Would a alternator make a noise when its going/ its out?
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you ground battery to seat belt bolt? I would try another ground spot. Use 4 or 2 awg wire and scrape all paint off. VOltage should be 13.8+ with the car running I think.
#13
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no it starts fine...my battery was just dead..rough start up and pours smoke and then makes a really loud noise like the uim is off. I was catchin boost when i revved in neutral and now i catch no boost and revs slowly
#14
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Turbos have nothing to do with the car starting and running. You could remove the turbos from the side of the engine altogether and it should still start, idle, rev, and pull out normally.
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Look man, think of it this way. You have a window fan in your bedroom window, and the window is up. Even though the fan might not be turning under it's own power, wind can still blow through the fan into your room, can't it?
How is a turbo being in the air intake pathway restricting air from entering? That's like saying your air filter won't let the engine run because it wont let air in.
How is a turbo being in the air intake pathway restricting air from entering? That's like saying your air filter won't let the engine run because it wont let air in.
#18
my two pence.... here in malta i saw some 6 cars with that symptom. Rich wont start...lazy and like flooded...
I changed the ECU temp sensor...the green socket sensor behind the thermo housing...and hey presto... your plugs now may be fouled if you tried running her. voltage from alternator should be 14.6....at all rpm.
I changed the ECU temp sensor...the green socket sensor behind the thermo housing...and hey presto... your plugs now may be fouled if you tried running her. voltage from alternator should be 14.6....at all rpm.
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....remove the top hose from the intercooler...start the car....place your hand over the hole to restrict air to the UIM...if the car continues to run...or takes a little while to die..you probably have an intake leak...maybe between the LIM and engine block.
#22
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Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
A vacuum leak before the throttlebody makes no difference to a map-based EFI system such as the FD. ON an AFM based system like the FC this will wreak havoc, though.